Test Light

Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

If you have something in your vehicle that's not working, like a light or a radio, one of the possibilities is it could be a blown fuse. Over here, we have an under-hood fuse box. Generally there'll be a cover over it, so we'll take the cover off this one. Generally, on the back side of the cover there is a key that shows you which fuse is which.

One of the ways you can check it is to find what's not working, like the interior lights, and you could pull that individual fuse and try to look and see if it's damaged.

As you can see, we have the blown fuse here. The blown part is right here. This is another blown fuse, and it's very hard to see the broken U shape in there. I'm going to show you another way to test if you have a blown fuse.

One way to check your fuses is with a test light. I'm going to show you how to do that. We actually sell this test light at 1AAuto.com. The first thing you're going to do is test the test light and make sure.

We're going to crimp this to the negative battery terminal, and then we're going to test it at the positive and make sure the light actually works. That way you know that you have a good connection on the negative.

Now, one way to test these fuses, on the back of a fuse, there's a little pin, and you can actually, with the test light, you can go in each pin. If the light lights up on both sides, then you know the fuse is good. Just like that.

So you can check each fuse, and then if you go to a fuse and one side lights up and but the other side doesn't, that fuse is bad. Like this one, this fuse is blown. But if we check other ones, the other ones light up.

Once in a while, you'll come to an instance where the light won't light up at all. That just means there's no power going to the fuse. So that item isn't on, whether it needs the key to be on or accessory, that's why that would not have power. That does not indicate a blown fuse. But power on one side, no power on the other, that is a blown fuse.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Turn the key on. You can see my driver side power window motor is not working. So I'm going to diagnose what's not working here. I've got a test light, make a good ground with the vehicle. Here's my switch, I put this- I just took the switch off the door panel and put it on here. First you want to find the power wire, so I've got the key on in the vehicle, so the power is on in the vehicle. You can see that there's power there. I'm just probing that. I hit the metal and that light comes on, I have power there. Okay, at this first step I've confirmed that I have power to the switch.

If you were not able to find that you have power to the switch, then you would need to look for either a break in the wire between the body and the door. Usually if you pull the little boot back that protects the wires that run from between the body and the door you'll find a break in the wire. The other thing is you could have a blown fuse. You've kind of ruled out step one, you've got power to the switch so power is getting to the door.

There's power going into the switch but nothing's happening. All right, so if I look here at my power window motor I've got an orange with a white stripe and I have an orange with a green stripe. Coming out of the switch, there's orange white stripe and orange green stripe. I can probe the orange with white stripe. Let's see here. See I'm holding the switch. I let the switch out, so power is going to the orange with white stripe. Power is going to the orange with green stripe. Now at this point we've ruled out the second thing which is the switch. We know the switch is good. Power is coming into the switch. You activate the switch one way, one of the wires lights up, you activate the switch the other way, the other wire lights up so the switch is doing its job. It's directing the power from the main power supply to whichever wire to run the motor that you want.

Come down here. Probe the back of the orange with white stripe. You see power's going to the motor. Power's going to the motor, so there's nothing wrong with the switch it's got to be the motor. So I was able to deduce that it was the motor because I know there's power going into the switch, I know there's power coming out of the switch, and I know there's no breaks in the wires between the switch and the motor, because when I flip the switch I'm able to light up the light at the connector at the motor, so it has to be the motor that's bad.

We can confirm that pretty easily. We've got our new regulator with motor here from 1A Auto. We're going to press down on the tab here. Disconnect and then connect that right here, and you can hear very easily, as soon as we hit the switch, this motor is working.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also, check out our other helpful how-to, as well as, diagnosis videos.

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

There's multiple issues that could be with this window not going up and down. One of them could be the window regulator motor and/or could be the wiring, or it could be the switch. We're going to start diagnosing by pulling the door panel off and checking for power and ground at the window motor.

Here's our window motor. We're going to test right here. First thing you need to do is disconnect the connector. Just a flat blade screwdriver, pushing the lock. Pull it out.

All right, so when we're going to test the circuit we want to make sure our test light actually works because then you could be testing a circuit with a bad test light. So when you start with your diagnosing, hook the one side to a ground, test the other side, the positive. As you can see, the test light is working.

To make testing this circuit easier what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a straight pick and put it in the backside of the test site so I have the ability to go in to both sides. We turn the ignition on. Next we're going to take our test light and just lightly touch the terminals. You do not want to force them in, just lightly touch them. I'm going to take our switch, activate the switch up and down. The test light is not coming on.

Okay, so the test light did not light up when we were checking for power and ground at the connector. Your next step would be to put your test light on a ground, on known good ground. What we can do is put it right here on this bolt. To make sure you have a good ground we're going to go over here. There's a power feed right here. You can see the test light lights up. That's that red and white wire right there in the back. All right.

We're going to go back to the connector, just lightly, again, don't want to break the terminals. Test it and then I'll activate the switch again, up and down. The test light does not light in the blue wire. We're going to move it to the brown wire and do the same. Still it is not lighting up.

We want to make sure our switch ... We know our switch has power here. Now we need to test that ground on the switch to make sure there's ground. We will go back, just take that in the power and test the ground. The switch has power in ground so we know that's good. But we know the switch is not sending power or ground to the window motor. We know that the problem is in the switch.

If when we were doing that test with the test light and when you probed both terminals and you were toggling the switch and it was lighting up, then you would know that it is the motor. But in our case it is the switch. One other test we can do is if you look at these two wires, the blue and the brown wire, these wires go from here and they go straight over to the switch. There is the possibility those wires could be open circuit. What I mean by open circuit would be the wire would have a break in it. If you think of it as like a garden hose going from here to there, there would be a split so the water couldn't go through. We can test them right here, just to confirm. There's still no power when toggling the switch, so it confirms this is the bad switch. If you diagnose your vehicle and determine that you need a window motor or a window switch, check 1aauto.com. We have a ton of window motors and switches and we can get your window working again.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi, everyone. I'm Don from 1A Auto. In this series of videos, we're going to be focusing on vehicle diagnostics and maintenance tips. We hope that you find it helpful, and when you need parts for your car or truck, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to diagnose and repair your defrost grid on your car or truck. It's pretty much the same operation for any car or truck with the grid that's built into the glass. So what are some of the common problems that you're going to run across or reasons why the grid goes bad? Well, for instance here, you see that we've got a sticker on this one here. If somebody were to scrape it off with a razor blade and unknowingly, or not realize that they're taking the grid off, well, then you're going to have a problem and that grid line isn't going to work.

Basically, the operation here for the grid working is power coming in, and then a ground on the opposite side. The power goes through, heats up each one of these wires, and then melts the snow or defrosts it. But once there's a break in one of these wires, that whole grid line is going to stop working. So, what we're going to do is walk you through how to diagnose why or where for that matter, your grid is broken so you can use repair kit and fix it so you've got all your grids working. All we're going to need is a little test light, so let's go in and let's get started.

All right, so I'm going to go in, I'm going to put the key in position two and turn the defroster on. I've got my test light. I'm going to ground it off to a good ground. This is a door striker. Anything metal that's grounded to the body will work. I'm going to go up to the grid, and I'm going to start testing. Nothing here. It's good. Not good. Going all the way down. Okay, so we've got an issue with the first and the third grid wires.

Now, in order to find out where your break is, you're going to start from the closest point and work your way out, and once you've lost voltage, you realize that there's a break in between here and here. This looks like we're going to need to repair it. Now on this third one, we'll start in the same spot and we're good to work our way out. Still good. It appears there's an issue right here. We're going to go ahead and repair that.

All right, so here's our kit. It's comprised of the compound which is the quick repair grid compound, a little brush to apply it, and a mask so that you can keep in straight in the lines of the grid. With this particular one, we're going to remove this and we're going to place this over where we know our fault is. Just like this. All right, then depending on which compound you get or brand, read the instructions as to how to apply it, but with this one, just give it a good shake, insert your brush, then go ahead and paint it on.

So we've applied our first coat of the repair compound. What we're going to do is wait about 20 minutes, do it again, wait another 20 minutes and do it again. Then let it dry overnight. Remove the mask here, then we're going to, tomorrow, put our test light on a good ground, just like we did before. Turn the defroster on and work our way out again with the test light to check for any other faults. If that is the case, we'll go ahead and repeat the procedure there.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

In this video, we are going to show you how to diagnose your wiper motor in a 2008 Subaru Outback. If you need parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.

Before we take the wiper arms off, we're going to want to mark where the old blades are. You can use a dry-eraser marker, or a piece of chalk, or a crayon would work, just something you can mark and then wipe off. I'll do the same with this one. Just put a little mark there, so, when you put it back, you know that's where the blades should be on the windshield.

I'm going to pull this cover off, right here. I'm going to use a 90 pick, and pry up, underneath. It'll release. I'll do the same for this one. You can use a flat-blade screwdriver as well. Pull those covers off.

I'm going to take this nut off. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Break it free, and then you can use just the socket and the extension. Pull that nut out. To pull this arm up, I'm just going to wiggle it back and forth, push down, and pull up, and the whole arm should come out. Now, I'm going to take this one off with the same 14 millimeter socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Break it free, and then twist it off. Pull the arm up, and do the same. Grab it, and push, and pull. There's the wiper arm.

Next, we're going to take these push clips up. There's one right there. There's these three right there. For this one, right here, we're going to use a trim tool. We sell these at 1AAuto.com. I'm just going to pry it underneath the panel, pry up, just to pop that out. For these little ones, I'm going to use a right-angle pick, just to get it underneath. You release the top part, and the rest of it pulls up. We're doing the same for the other side. Lift that up.

Next, we're going to take our trim tool and come under here, and we're going to pop this up. There's some clips that hold it on. Underneath, just like this. There's a clip under here. I'm going to pull that up and out of the way. Same with this side. There's a clip that pops this up, and then this slides out from under the fender. I'm going to pull the cowl cover off.

All right, we're going to test the circuit for the wiper motor. First thing you want to do, make sure your test light works. I'm going to hook this to ground, and test it. As you can see, the lights coming on. You can get this test light at 1AAuto.com. We're good there, so we're going to disconnect the connector. Remember, keep your hands clear of any mechanical moving parts. Disconnect that, okay.

Here's your electrical connector. We're going to test it with the test light. We have our test light on ground. This yellow wire is a hot feed that feeds the motor all the time when the key is on. We're going to test that. Just lightly touch on the terminal. As you can see, the light is coming on. That is what's going to bring the motor back to park when you shut the wipers off. The next thing we're going to test is this red and blue wire. Right now, it's not on, because we don't have our switch on. We're going to turn the switch on. We'll put that to wipers-on, regular speed. As you can see, we have power there. That means the switch appears to be working. I'm going to put it on high now, with the wipers on high. That is not on. This black and blue is the wipers high. As you can see, the light is coming on when I test that. Now, we'll turn the switch off again.

With the wiper switch off, now I'm going to disconnect the test light from the negative posts on the battery. I'm going to switch it to the positive posts. I'm just going to test it again and make sure that I have a good connection there. Now, I'm going to test the ground circuit for this wiper arm. That is the black wire on this connector. Just lightly test that. As you can see, the light is working. Now, we know our ground wire is good. The ground is good, and all the powers are good. If you have a problem with your wiper motor and all this tests out, you have a bad wiper motor. If you tested all these circuits and one of them is not working properly, you may have bad wiring, a bad wiper switch, or a blown fuse.

Next, we're going to connect our electrical connector. Remember to keep clear of the mechanical mechanism, because you don't want to hurt your fingers. It's going to go in with the skinny side to the top, the clip on the bottom, just like that.

Push our push clip back in there. It holds the wire there. Some of these clips may have fell off. You're going to reinstall these clips on the cowl, up here. Twist this around, and go over. You're going to want to go over the wiper transmission, line all this stuff up, start pushing it down. Line this up and push this push pin down there. Do the same on this side. Line this up and push this push pin down here.

We can take these. I'm going to insert them over here. Go under the fender first, and push that down. Do the same on this side. Go under the fender, push that down. Next, we're going to install these push pins. You want this top part to be up a little bit. Install the bottom part, and then you can push it down, just like that. Same with this one.

Sometimes, you can push the lower part of the clip in first, and then push the upper part in like that. Install them on this side as well. Push it down. Now, we're going to push these in, that are on the weather strip. Get these locked down in.

Next, we're going to install our wiper arm. Put that on. We're going to line it up with our marks that we made earlier, right there, install our nut for the wiper arm. This is our 14 millimeter socket and extension. Tighten this down. We're going to torque these to 14 foot-pounds. We'll take this one. We're going to install this one over here. Make sure that lines up with our marks over there. Snug this down with the ratchet, and then we'll torque it to 14 foot-pounds. I'm going to hold the arm while I'm torquing it.

You can put the covers back on. I'm going to slide this down into the groove, press it down. Same with this one. Slide it in abd push it down. Now, we'll close the hood. I'll turn the key on and test them. We want to make sure that it's not coming off the edge of the windshield, and that they're not hitting each other. We'll test them on high. It works on high. It goes back to park.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I want to take a few minutes to talk to you about windshield wipers and how 1A Auto can help you out. You can have different problems with windshield wipers, the most obvious would be if your windshield wipers didn't work at all. In that case, you'd want to find the fuse for your wipers. Consult your manual for your vehicle. On our Camry, our wiper fuse is behind this little door. If you look at the map, if you look at the key, it's the fifth one down on the left side. You can't really video it, so you'd use this tool. You go in and clip on to the fuse and pull it straight out. You get in there with your little fuse tool clip-on, squeeze it and it should come out. Just double check. The little thing says it should be a 20 amp fuse. That's 20. It's a 20 amp fuse. You look through and you can see that little hill in there basically. If that is all fine and good, then your fuse is good. Here's an example. It’s a different size but you can see what a bad fuse looks like and you can see that that little hill in there has been basically blown up. Too much current went to this fuse and so it's blown. This is what a good fuse looks like and that's what a bad fuse looks like. You want to replace that fuse, we'll put this one back in for now. Make sure you put it in the right slot and push it in. Then put whatever covers your fuse up.

If your wipers are totally not working and you've checked your fuse and your fuse is good, then it's either your wiper switch or your wiper motor. To test that out, unhook your wiper motor and I have a test light here. It's grounded here. I'm just going to check it real quick by hitting the positive part of the battery and I see the lights going on. Then I have the keys on and the wipers are turned on. I'm going to probe each one of the contacts. Nothing there. I get a light there, nothing, a light and nothing. That's okay because I just have it on one speed and I can go to the next speed and I'll see that I get nothing, a light, a light, nothing, and nothing. On the second speed, I get different ones. I know at this point that my switch is working.

When wipers aren't working, check the fuse. Fuse is okay. Probe to check to see if your switch is okay. Switch seems okay so it has to be the wiper motor. Once you find out it's the wiper motor, or if you come in here and you probe and you make sure your light is working correctly and you don't get anything, that means the switch is usually bad. If you have a wiper motor or a bad switch, at 1A Auto.com, we sell either one of them for a wide range of vehicles.

A more difficult problem is that maybe you have one wiper working and not the other. Sometimes this is easy. You can see this, I actually have this disconnected just to show you this. Sometimes you can just tighten up the nut or bolt that holds your wiper here. Other times, unfortunately, what happens is if it gets loosened up, the teeth on the wiper transmission or the wiper arm itself get stripped. In those cases, you either need to replace the wiper arm or the wiper transmission. Good thing: at 1A Auto.com, you can find either one of those for a wide range of vehicles

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Here I have this test light that we sell at 1aauto.com. If you have to do some diagnosing you can hook this onto your vehicle, test the circuits out.

Do you need this tool? Click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

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