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1A Auto 1 Year Warranty
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Part Details
Genuine original equipment part (OEM) that was factory installed on your vehicle by the manufacturer.
Item Condition:
New
1 Year Warranty
This item is backed by our 1-year warranty. In the event this item should fail during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Hi, everyone. My name's Sue from 1aauto.com. Today we're going to be installing this VTEC Solenoid in our '09 Honda CRV. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click the link on the description and head on over to 1aauto.com.
Now we're going to replace the VTEC Solenoid valve on our '09 Honda CRV. It's in a difficult spot. It's on the back side of the engine facing the firewall. We set up a mirror. There's three mounting bolts on this VTEC solenoid, and there is a 10 millimeter socket, and I'm going to bring my ratchet right down there. You can see there's one. I'm going to break it free.
Because of the difficulty, I'm going to pull these bolts right out once I'm on it. Now I'm going to go for the second one. I think right now I'm going to disconnect the solenoid sensors on top. There's two connections. Just push on the tab and pull. I'm going to have to wait on that one. Can't see it. Let's get the last mounting bolt. Once this bolt is out, I can hopefully hold the solenoid and then disconnect that other sensor a lot easier, and squeeze the harness clips off of the shield and get all a little bit easier with the dismounting.
Be careful if you're working on a garage full. You might want to put a catch basin underneath as some oil will come out. Disconnect this connector on this harness hopefully. This one. Now I can squeeze this other solenoid and release it. See, it gets moving. Here we go. You never want to pull on the harness. As tempting as it is, you don't want to do that. Now, as you can see, the solenoid valve is out and there is no gasket there. So always double-check your surface before you remount any part that requires a gasket.
Now, with my valve out, I can see with my little truly mirror I installed that the gasket is still stuck to the block. So I'm going to reach down there and pull that out. Nice.
Here we have a VTEC solenoid out of a Honda, and we have the factory one that we removed. It comes with the oil pressure switch and the variable time solenoid. And here is the one from 1aauto.com. Nice. Lined up. It shows you that they took account of everything they put in, and that they've lined it and set it to specs, because with the new gasket with screen you can also get the screen and gasket separately at 1aauto.com or put the whole assembly in.
Before I install my new VTEC valve solenoid, I installed a new harness clip here because I broke the old one. But it's important that you reattach the harness the way it was, because you get the drive belt down there and you sure don't want to cut that harness. It goes to the crank position sensor so that would be a no start.
Before I install the new VTEC valve solenoid from 1A Auto, I'm going to clean and wipe down the surface, just to make sure there's no debris in the way. It wouldn't hurt to put some little clean oil on this gasket. It just makes it a nice seal so it won't be leaking—it won't encourage it to leak.
I'm going to take a quick look here, and all my mounting bolts are the same length, so it doesn't matter the sequence I go in. I'm going to install one and bring it down there with this little valve. I'm going to end up snugging these down by hand and then torquing it.
The torque on this, torque is really important because of the rubber gasket. If you overtighten something, the gasket actually will not seal. So you don't want to go through all this trouble doing this and not tighten it in the specifications the manufacturer suggest. The manufacturer's specs on this is 8.7 foot-pounds. You can always rent tools if you don't own them. Now I've pre-set my torque wrench to 8.7 foot-pounds, and I'm going to put my 10 millimeter socket on this and then tighten it up. There we go. That one's set.
Move on to this one. That one's set. Let go back down with the first. Now that the solenoids all torqued down, I'm going to reconnect my OP switch connector and my variable timing valve connector. They're color-coded and they're also different design. One's a rectangle style and the other one is a round circle so you cannot mix those up. Nice, heard the click. Move on to the OP switch one. It's oil pressure. There we go. Now I can reconnect my loom clips. Make sure I connect it in. I'm going to wrap the wires on the new wire loom clip that I installed. Perfect.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey everyone, Sue here from 1A Auto, and today on our 06 Honda Element, we're going to be doing a VTEC solenoid, AKA variable timing solenoid. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
The VTEC solenoid is located on the passenger side of the engine on the backside firewall area. I'm going to disconnect the connectors to the actual solenoids. We've got two of them in here. Squeeze that tab and pull it up, and then the back one, same thing. I'm going to squeeze the tab and pull it up. There we go. I'm going to take a pair of needle nose and I'm going to undo the harness because we have to take it, the harness out of the actual shield that goes around the valve. So let me just pry that right off.
There's two places that it does that. So we're going to disconnect the cam sensor on the side here. I'm going to do that by pushing on the tab. Now that will go with the actual. Now we have three mounting bolts. As you can see, one, two, three and they're all 10 millimeter socket. Now I have a catch basin underneath because some oil could come out. There are long bolts, so I'm going to take one out at a time and visually look at it to make sure that I put it back in the same bolt hole, if there is different lengths. Last one. Okay, so note that all the bolts are the same length, so that's good. We don't have to worry about that. Then you just grab the solenoid and pull it off the block. We have one other connector, but it's easier to get at when the valve's off. I'll take a pair of needle nose. I'll squeeze those two ears on that tab.
We can move that valve out of the way. Just checking. See if you see anything, see how the rubber gasket's stuck to it. So you want to make sure you peel that off. That's flattened out pretty good. See how the gasket's flat? Look how dirty that screen is. It's not clogged, but the oil is definitely a little brown.
Here we have our new VTEC variable timing solenoid from 1A Auto. And here we have the original one. We just took off our 2.4 liter on our Honda element. So you can see they both come with the new one from 1A Auto, comes with both solenoids and it comes with a new gasket, with the screen involved, and the shield as part of it. It comes just like you see assembled here, and the factory one you can see has had a problem for a while. Someone has over torqued it and cut the gasket in two spots and it's the original solenoid, look how rusted it is. Great price, great part. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
So now we're going to get a clean rag and we're going to clean the surface here. The oil is still going to drip out because it's in the block. But we want to get this clean and remounted before we get any major oil drips. Don't clean this with brake clean or parts cleaner. I think that goes without saying, you don't want that inside your engine. Now I am going to put one of the bolts in or maybe even all the bolts in the new solenoid. So when I bring it on down, it's ready to go. Okay, let's see if I can see. The key is here, if you get one started, the rest will follow. Make sure you don't hit the gasket. You don't want that gasket falling out.
I always win. I don't know why things give me such a hard time. They know they're going to lose. Now the torque specs on this is really small because that rubber gasket, you don't want it crushed. As you can see, the one we took out and the way I had to break those bolts free, they were way over torqued and you saw the end results. If not, I'll show it to you if I didn't show it to you already. The end result is the gasket torqued two spots. So tighter is not always better. I'm just going to ... Torque spec at 7.2 foot-pounds. So I'm literally going to just snug these. Okay, now I'm going to get my torque wrench. Set it to 7.2 foot-pounds. Okay, that's one. Last one. Double check. Perfect.
I know it takes a little extra time, but this is important. It's not an important piece. So now I can connect my solenoids again. Make sure you connect your cam sensor. The only reason I undid that was to give more play with the harness. I thought this one was going to give me trouble. There we go. Now we're going to clean it up with some parts clear and we'll be ready to go. Always make sure you do a oil change after you do this valve with some clean oil.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
