Better Brakes Law SAE Environmental Compliance Level:
N
Mounting Hardware Included:
No
Secondary Brake Shoe Friction Material Thickness:
6 mm
0.24 in
Primary Brake Shoe Friction Material Thickness:
6 mm
0.24 in
Brake Drum Diameter:
223 mm
8.78 in
Secondary Brake Shoe Friction Material Length:
9.06 in
230 mm
Grade Type:
Standard Replacement
Parking Brake Levers Included:
No
Primary Brake Shoe Friction Material Length:
9.06 in
230 mm
Item Condition:
New
Specifications
Location
Rear
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Rear Drum Brakes 1991-99 Buick LeSabre
How to Replace Rear Brakes 1995-2002 Chevy Cavalier
Created on:
Tools used
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
White Grease
Mineral Spirits
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Brake Drum
Spray rust penetrant on the lug studs
Pry off the drum with flat blade screwdrivers
Pull off the drum
3. Removing the Brake Shoes
Remove the brake shoe springs with the vise grip pliers
Hold the front retaining pin in place by hand
Pry out the front retaining spring with a flat blade screwdriver
Remove the brake shoe
Remove the brake adjuster
Pry the emergency brake cable out of the front brake shoe
4. Installing the New Brake Shoes
Pry the emergency brake cable into the front brake shoe slot with vise grip pliers
Lift the front brake shoe into place
Thread the retaining pin into the brake shoe
Put the adjuster into place
Remove the adjuster clip
Put the rear brake shoe into place
Thread the retaining pin into the brake shoe
Put white grease on both ends of the adjuster clip
Insert the adjuster end into place
Twist on the retaining spring
Clean the brake shoes with mineral spirits
Hook the springs on with the vise grip pliers
5. Installing the New Brake Drum
Try to slide the brake drum on
If necessary turn the adjuster wheel with a flat blade screwdriver
The brake rotor should slide on with some resistance
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the 19mm lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
7. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to remove and reinstall the rear brake shoes and drums on this '97 Buick LeSabre. This vehicle ends up having a pretty good rare brake, so we just take them off and put them back on to show you. This procedure is the same for many GM vehicles that have the rear drum brakes from Chevys to Pontiacs to Olds to Cadillacs. You'll need new shoes and drums from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 19 millimeter socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, some penetrating oil, two large screwdrivers or small pry bars, pliers, some white grease or brake grease and some solvent, and some brake cleaner or mineral spirits. You can even use gasoline, it just needs to dissolve grease and then evaporate quickly.
Remove the wheel. Pry the center cap off with a large screwdriver or small pry bar. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way or remove the wheel and tire.
Spray the hub that are on the lug studs with some penetrating oil. I'm using two large screwdrivers to pry off the drum. Then just wiggle your drum off. I'm using a small vice grip, and I'm going to connect it right here in the end of the spring and pry that spring off. Remove the spring, and I'm using a large screwdriver again with the flat tip. I'm going to pry out the big spring that goes around. Once that's out, you could pull out your shoes. The parts that fell off here, this one goes here and this is the end of your adjuster and that can come out now too. This, if you pull it out and then remove the emergency brake.
Okay, check your drum for any significant wear on the inside, any lips or any scoring that might occur. This right here is just from where it was sitting with the brake shoe. This drum is in good shape, and it comes with the shoes. These still have a lot of life left on them, and you could measure that by how much of the lining is still here. Both of these shoes are in really good shape.
If you need to replace your drums and your shoes, get them from 1A Auto. You'll see that they're virtually identical, the same thing with the drum.
Connect the bar to your E-brake first. Use a screwdriver to pull the spring out. We're going to install the adjuster and leave off this end. Again, I'm using the screwdriver to pry up at the clip and get your shoe in underneath it. Take your clip and put it in. Before putting your adjuster in, with the end of it, just put a little grease on both ends and pry it out a little bit. Put the end in around your clip. We'll get this end of the tensioner or the adjuster here below the hole and it's in, the same with this side here, and you can go back in with the spring. I'm using mineral spirits to clean off the brake shoes. You can use brake cleaner or any kind of solvent. You could use the same thing for the inside of the drum.
I'll speed it up here as we put the wheel back on, put the lug nuts on preliminary then let it down the ground to tighten the lug nuts. Always pump your brakes before you do a road test. Make sure you got a nice, firm pedal, and, obviously, we showed you the passenger's side. The driver's side's rear is the same and we always recommend that you service your brakes in pairs.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hammer
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers
Pull off the hub cap by hand
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
2. Removing the Brake Drum
Strike the drum with a hammer to loosen it
Pull off the brake drum by hand
3. Inspecting the Brakes
Check the drum for grooves or gouges
Check the thickness of the brake shoes
4. Removing the Brake Shoes
Pull off the green springs using a pair of vise grip pliers
Remove the rod from the post
Remove the springs and cups from the brake shoes with vise grip pliers
Pull off the brake adjuster arm by hand
Separate the shoes and pull them off around the hub
Disconnect the emergency brake cable from the brake shoes
Pull off the brake shoes
Separate the brake shoes from each other
Pry the clip off the emergency brake arm with a flat head screwdriver
Pull the arm off the brake shoes
5. Installing the New Brake Shoes
Put the emergency brake arm onto the new rear brake shoe
Install the clip on to the emergency brake arm with vise grip pliers
Check that the brake shoe adjuster moves freely
Put the brake shoes into place
Put the adjuster between the two brake shoes
Attach the spring across the bottom of the shoes with vise grip pliers
Attach the adjuster arm
Install the springs and cups onto the brake shoes with vise grip pliers
Install the spring for the adjuster arm
Install the rod
Install the rear green spring
Install the front green spring
6. Installing the New Brake Drum
Push the brake drum on
It should slide on with some friction
If necessary, pull off the drum and turn the adjuster wheel with a flat blade screwdriver
Push the brake drum on
7. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the hub cap, lining up the notch with the valve stem
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on a 2000 Chevy Cavalier. The operation is the same from left side to the right side, as well as for many of the model years of the Chevy Cavalier with rear drum brakes. In order to perform this repair, you're going to need a new set of brakes from 1A Auto, a 19mm socket and socket wrench, or if you have an impact wrench, use that, a hammer, flathead screw driver, needle nose pliers, needle nose vise grips and a jack and jack stands.
I use the 19mm socket to just loosen the lug covers and remove the hub cap. Then if you don't have the benefit of air tools, start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the wheel and tire.
To remove the rear drum, I'm going to tap on it and spin it a little bit to loosen it up and eventually I'm going to hit it from the back side making sure that I don't hit the backing plate. Once I get that loose, I'll be able to pull off the brake drum. If you want, you can do an inspection. Use your finger, feel for any deep grooves or gouges on the surface of the drums, and then also check the brake shoes. On this vehicle, everything is in pretty good shape. We're just going to take it all apart and put it back together to show you.
I'm going to remove the springs. I'm using a pair of pinch-nose vise grips and you could see those two green springs. I'm going to start by taking those off and setting them aside. And I'm going to remove that last rod and pull it off the post and set that aside. I'm going to remove the two springs that hold the brake shoes in place and in order to do that, again I'll use the pinch-nose pair of vise grips. What we're trying to do here is twist the cup that the spring sits in and line it up with the tabs on the cup and then the rod that goes through it, and by doing that is to release itself. The best way to get those pinch-nose pliers grab the outside edge and twist until the spring comes off the rod with that cup. You're going to do that for both sides noting that the one that I'm working on here is going to go back in that same spot and they are not identical. Now, pull off the arm that goes to the brake adjuster. Grab both shoes, spread them apart, slide them over the hub and off and then disconnect the e-brake cable from the e-brake lever.
You're going to need to swap over this arm. It's on one of the brake shoes and we're going to reuse these shoes but I'm just going to show you, here, what you're going to need to do because there's a very good chance that it's not going to come with your new set of shoes. It's not going to come with this arm. It's just a stud with a e-clip on the end of it and you just need a little flat head screw driver to pry it off and it will go back on just the same way on the new set of shoes.
In going back in, I've got that stud through there. I've got the arm going back on the stud and I'm going to use a pair of pinch-nose pliers to put the e-clip back on. Here's an up close of the brake shoe adjuster. You're going to want to make sure that that's freely moving. Place the brake shoes back in and you can see how they are touching the wheel cylinder as well as the bar up top. Make sure that it's seated right there correctly and that they're just being held in, right now, basically, by a little bit of friction. You get your adjuster. Slide it in the way that you see there and then go ahead and put the spring in. Make sure everything stays in place and then use a pair of pinch-nose vise grips and reinstall the spring. That will keep some tension on it so they don't fall out. Install the spacer washer on the rear most shoe there and you can put the arm back on and that's going to rest up against the brake shoe and the adjuster star wheel on that bottom. Adjust your vise grips and reinstall that green spring and the cup. Hold from the back of the backing plate, the pin that goes through. Stick it through and twist until it seats. Do the same for the other spring and cup. Put your hand through and make sure that that pin sticks through. Go ahead and squeeze it and put it on. To reinstall the spring, it goes against the backing of the brake shoe and that rod that we just installed, and you want the fat part down and skinny part up into the notch into that little arm. Now, go ahead and reinstall the rod that goes to that arm again. Slide it over the pin and put it in to its notch. We're going to go ahead and do the same thing with those two green springs, the rearmost being the first one. Just put it over the pin using those vise grips and then the front one goes on just the same. Here's what it should look like when you're all set.
We're going to make sure that we've got the right adjustment on the rear brakes and you can see here I'm spinning it. We should have a little bit of friction so I'm going to take that wheel or that brake drum off and I'm going to use a screw driver. You can see that little adjusting wheel down there and I'm going through the hub and I'm going to make it spread it open a little bit more thus putting a little bit more force against the brake drum. I'm going to put it on again. There's a little bit of friction there but I'm going to take it off one more time and adjust it a little bit more so that it's got a little bit more friction tension against that brake drum. Go ahead and do that until you feel like you've got the appropriate amount of drag.
I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I reinstall those five lug nuts. I'm torqueing the five lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot pounds. Now, line up the notch for valve stem with the hub cap and then using your 19mm socket by hand tightening those lug nut caps and I'm going to fast forward as I finish that up.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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