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TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, the source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto, I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a rear hub on this 2003 Honda Civic, same as most 2001 to 2005 Civics that have the rear drum brakes. If your vehicle has ABS, this is basically the same procedure. This vehicle does not have ABS, the only difference is the part has a stator ring on it. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, you'll need a tire iron or 19 mm socket with a breaker bar, you'll also need a 32 mm socket, again with a breaker bar or with a ratchet and a piece of pipe to get some extra leverage. A little bit of grease just to help put the hub together and you'll need to the center cap off of the hub a sharp chisel or some type of sharp tool and a hammer. The lug nuts are 19 mm, you can either use a socket with a breaker bar or your tire iron. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with your wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first then raise and support your vehicle and remove the wheel and tire. Just speed it up here as I remove the wheel and tire. Hopefully your brake drum will come right off.
Now you'll need something fairly sharp to work in here, so actually a wood chisel. I'll speed it up here as I just keep working that cap off, like I said you just need something sharp to work between the cap and the hub flange and then pry the cap off. There's a 32 mm bolt, you either want a large socket on your impact wrench or again a big breaker bar. You can even use a ratchet with a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Once you have that off, the hub just pulls right off. Now you have the new one from 1A Auto, I just put a tiny amount of grease, just a very, very light coating to help this slide on. Okay now you want to torque this to 134 foot pounds. Okay, use an impact tool. Okay now I use my hammer again and start the center cap on and once I get it seated in there then I grab the socket that I used for the nut and use that to drive it all the way on.
Really kick into high gear here as I put the wheel on and then on this vehicle you put the hub cap on, start the lug nuts and then preliminarily tighten them with your ratchet or in this case my impact wrench and then I'll torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Then once the vehicle is on the ground then torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a crossing pattern as you go.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet, please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you a rear hub replacement. This is a 2003 Honda Civic with ABS. Same for a 2001 to 2005, we show you the passenger side, driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new rear hub from 1AAuto.com, and quite a few tools, including 10 to 19 millimeter sockets with ratchets and extension, 32 millimeter socket, needle nose and standard pliers, needle nose vice grips, a flat-head screwdriver, a chisel, taper punch, hammer and rubber mallet, jack and jack stands, and some penetrating oil.
One thing to note, we do take the brakes apart. You won't need to take them apart if your hub comes out whole. If it comes out the way ours did where the inner race stayed behind, you will need to take your brake shoes apart to get that apart.
Raise and support the vehicle, remove the tire. Remove the ten millimeter bolt on the back of the wheel speed sensor. We already sprayed our sensor down, we're going to add just a little more penetrating oil to make sure it comes out smoothly. Try to wiggle it out with a flat-head screwdriver or a small pry bar.
Corrosion often builds up between the wheel hub and the drum brake. You may have to hit it with a hammer to get it to loosen up and come off easily. Always be sure not to hit the wheel studs. Just a little bit of tapping so we can get our hands behind it and the drum comes off. Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the vehicle. Work to disassemble and reassemble the rear drum brakes one side at a time, that way if you get lost or don't remember where something goes, you have the opposite side as a reference.
Using a small pair of needle nose vice grips or a brake spring tool, if you have one available to you, remove these springs from the drum brakes. Be sure the vice grips are on there good and tight, because these springs can slip out under tension. Remove the brake shoe retainers by supporting the back of the pin, pressing down with the screwdriver, and turning the retainer off of the pin. Remove your brake shoes and your retainer pins from the back of the dust shield. Repeat for the other side.
Remove your adjuster and allow the rear shoe to hang on the e-brake. Remove the dust cap on the end of the wheel bearing by putting a chisel on the edge of the cap. You may have to rotate it and work it from different angles to get it to come free.
This nut is punched into this retainer, to free it up you're going to want to take a tapered punch. Using the 32 millimeter socket and an impact gun or half inch drive ratchet, remove the axle nut from the end of the spindle. Tap the back of the wheel hub to release from the spindle.
Something that happens often is the inner race of the bearing stays pressed onto the spindle. Here, we can see our exposed bearings because the inner race isn't attached. Here's our new part with what the back of the bearing is supposed to look like. We're going to have to work the inner race off of the spindle. Work the back of the race with a chisel and hammer, careful not to hit straight onto the spindle and score it.
The original part from the vehicle came out, but the inner race didn't quite come out. The new part from 1AAuto.com is exactly the same: same ABS toner ring. Studs are installed. It's going to be a good replacement.
Before installing the new wheel bearing, inspect the spindle for scores, gouges, burrs, or anything you may want to file off, as not to damage the bearing or hang it up and prevent it from going on fully. Slide the new wheel bearing onto the hub. Install your axle nut, bring it down with the 32 millimeter socket on a half inch drive ratchet or impact gun. Torque the axle nut to 134 foot-pounds.
Use a punch to knock the outer ring of the axle nut into the keeper. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood between the hammer and the dust cap, tap it back into place. Make sure your wheel bearing spins freely and doesn't make any grinding or crunching sounds that may indicate something's wrong with the installation.
Use a pair of needle nose vice grips to secure the end of your E-brake cable. You're going to want to push the spring back with this hook on your E-brake spreader. Slide it back. The lower brake spring hooks in from the back of the shoe. We'll hook it in to our rear shoe, making sure to lock the top into the wheel cylinder.
Feed our retainer pin to the back. Install your retainer clip over the pin. Press it down either by hand, with pliers, or the help of a flat-head screwdriver. You can use pliers to push the clip down. Grab your pin and rotate it.
Install the lower spring into your front pad. Be sure to hook it under the tab at the bottom. Install your retaining pin and clip the same way you did on the other side. Make sure your star wheel on your adjuster is spun all the way down with the longest leg facing you. Your adjuster arm will install with this adjuster sitting over this lip. Hook the retainer spring. Install your vice grips nice and tight.
We're going to install this hook into this hole. Install your vice grips nice and tight, so the spring is under a good amount of pressure. You don't want it snapping back at you. Sometimes, if it becomes partially engaged, you can tap it the rest of the way in with a screwdriver and a hammer.
Aligning this hole in the hub, you can access the star wheel with a screwdriver in order to adjust out your brake shoes. After you've adjusted your shoes up, you'll want to test fit your brake drum until you can just feel your brake shoes dragging on the wheel. This may take a few tries. Just a little bit of contact is all you need.
Reinstall the wheel, and your four 19mm lug nuts. Torque your four lug nuts to 84lbs in a cross pattern.
Reinstall the sensor into the hole. You may need to tap it with an extension, some kind of soft punch, and a dead blow hammer. Reinstall the 10 millimeter bolt into the sensor and tighten it down.
Torque your four lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
BHA53590
