2006 Honda Civic LX Front Ceramic Premium G-Coated Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA24074

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

With the vehicle on the ground I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts. With the lug nuts loosened I'm now going to raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loosened I should be able to use just the socket and finish removing them and I can take the wheel off. With the last lug nut removed I can take the wheel off.

Before I remove the caliper from the bracket, I'm going to try to squeeze it in first. Relieve some of the pressure on the piston. Get it to slide back into the caliper. This way when I go to remove it it'll slide right off. The caliper is held on with two bolts. One on the bottom and one on the top. They go in the side pins. This caliper doesn't have any stop to keep the slide pins from spinning when we go to remove it so we'll use a 19 millimeter wrench to kind of hold it. Use a 12 millimeter wrench to loosen it. Now I can just thread those out by hand. With the bolts out, I can slide the caliper off the pads and out of the bracket. I'll take the caliper and I want to hang it by the rubber hose using a bungee cord. Just wrap it through the strut. Give a couple twists here. Slide the pads out. Kind of wiggle them out of place.

The caliper bracket is held on with two bolts. There's a lower one and an upper one here. Let's start with the lower one, 17 millimeter. It's on there pretty tight, so I'm going to use the dead blow on the end of the wrench. Work on the upper one. Use the ratchet and socket just to make this go a little quicker. The other side. Hold onto the bracket as I loosen this upper one. There. Slide that out. The rotor is held to the hub with these two Phillips head screws. I need a big Phillips head screwdriver to remove them. They're in there and they're kind of stuck. I'm just going to have work at it. Spray some rust penetrant. Around here.

We've got an impact driver, which when you hit it, it spins the bit out, so I'm going to use that to help us get these out. I'll leave it loose. Now I'm going to get this one out. If after removing these two screws the rotor is still seized to the hub you can put two bolts in here and push it off. We're lucky this one's pretty loose. It'll slide right off. The brakes we took off the Civic are basically brand new. We're just going to reuse them. We just wanted to show you how to take them off. But 1A Auto does sell the front and rear brake kit for this vehicle. Here's the pad we took off.

Here's a brand new pad from 1A Auto. You can see this one is not really worn down that much. If we measure it it's just under 10 millimeters and when we look at the brand new pad from 1A Auto it's just about 10 millimeters as well. Since these are in good shape we're going to reuse the old ones for now. But if you need brand new brake pads you can get them from 1AAuto.com.

Just put this rotor back on. This would be the same if it was brand new. Kind of put it on backwards first. Take your brake parts cleaner. Just clean it down. Take a rag and wipe off the greasy hand prints. Flip it over. Install it the correct way. Line up these countersunk holes here with the threaded holes in the hub. Push that on. Some brake parts cleaner and clean the outside surface of the brake rotor. You can reuse these screws if you want to. You don't really have to. They just kind of hold the rotor in place while you're installing the caliper and caliper bracket. Clean our caliper hardware. Those are stainless steel clips on either ends. They can be reused. Just take some brake parts cleaner. Spray them down. And a wire brush. Take a rag and wipe them off. Repeat that for the other side. Now's a good time to check these slide pins. Make sure they move freely. That slides in and out real nice. Same for this one. Put the bracket over here. Put the bolts through the knuckle.

Have to move the caliper back around to find the openings. Thread them in by hand. Get that one caught. Work on the top one. Just going to slide these down with a ratchet. I'll come back and torque them afterwards. Just going to clean these pads with some brake parts cleaner before I put them back in. Put a little bit of caliper grease on the ears. I want the wear indicators on the inside. Place it into the clip and push it in place. And I'm going to repeat this for the other pad.

I'll take the brake caliper. Pull out the bungee cord. Get this out of here so I don't forget it. That's okay. This piston's pretty well compressed into the brake caliper. If these brake pads are really worn out this piston could be sitting way far out here and you'd have to take one of the old brake pads before you can install it and use a large C-clamp and you'd actually compress the piston back into the brake caliper. Since we're reusing the same pads and the thickness hasn't changed we don't need to do that. I'm just going to slide this into place. Install the bolts back in the slide pin. Just going to snug these up. Then I'll torque them. I'm going to counter hold the slide pins and then use a torque wrench to torque the slide caliper bolts, slide pin bolts. Torque these to 25 foot pounds. Caliper bracket bolts need to be torqued to 80 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wheel. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. I'm just going to snug them down. And when I put the car on the ground I will torque them. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 80 foot pounds. Go in a cross pattern. And the final step, to push the caliper pistons back out to meet the pads I'm going to gently press on the break and pump up the pedal pressure. You'll feel it start to get harder.

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