Replaces
Recommended for your 1999 Acura CL
Frequently bought together
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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus year experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we'll be replacing the front brake pads on this '95 Accord, same as any '94 to '97 Accord. Tools you'll need are a flat blade screwdriver, 14 mm, 17 mm, and 18 mm sockets with ratchet, and a large C-clamp, and obviously jack and jack stands.
Start on these aluminum wheels by removing the center cap. Next, if you don't have the benefit of air tools you want to loosen your lug nuts while your car is still on the ground, and then after you loosen the lug nuts jack it up and support it. You always want use a jack and you want to use a jack stand. Then, remove the lug nuts and the wheel. These are 18 mm bolts.
Now we have the tire off and you can see I've turned the wheels all the way to the right. Now to remove the caliper you want to remove four bolts, one, two, and then inside here these larger bolts. This one up here, three, and then its counterpart right down here, four. These two bolts are 14 mm. They actually hold the caliper to this larger bracket. The other two bolts are larger. They're 17 mm on this car. After you remove the larger bolts, now your whole assembly will come off the rotor. Here's your whole caliper assembly and here are your pads. You can take this large bracket off your caliper. Put your caliper up there, and then your pads just come right out.
Once you've removed your caliper and your pads, you want to determine if you can reuse your rotors. There're three ways. There's the technical way which is you measure how thick they are, and I will if your rotors look very crusty and old I'd just replace them. You can see on these rotors they're actually off the market set of rotors. They look pretty good. They don't look worn down. I can take my finger and run it across and I don't feel any deep gouges or grooves. I just feel very fine like vinyl record type grooves in it. You want to check both the face of it and the backside as well. These rotors are fine. I'm going to reuse them. If you feel like you need to replace your rotor you're going to want to check out our other videos. Changing the rotors on these cars require some more advanced tools and requires taking apart of the steering knuckle. For this video we're going to go back to showing you how to put the pads back on.
You're going to want to take your big bolts, slide it in behind. Get the bolts started. Now we'll take those 17 mm bolts up. They probably should be about 70 foot pounds. I'm just using a nice big half-inch ratchet and pulling good and hard. Now these brake pads are actually fine. They have a lot of life left on. You do want to make sure you check the other side as well, which I did on this car, and both sides the brake pads the wear was nice and even. There can be times where one side will look fine and then the other side is worn down more, and you always want to replace sides at the same time.
This tab here is your wear tab. You want to make sure you put this pad on the backside with the wear tab facing up. That's when your pads start to wear out that tab is going to start making that squeaking noise so you know that you need to replace your brakes, that one in and this one. Now if you're replacing your pads with new pads, your caliper, this piston is going to work its way out. What you want to use is a large C-clamp. Now as I tighten you can see that the piston will go back in to the caliper. You need to work the piston all the way back in in order to get it down over the new brake pads. Now with your caliper back, we can just put it all right on and your bolts. These are 14 mm bolts. I'm just going to tighten them up a little bit with my air wrench here. Now I'm going to use my hand ratchet to tighten them up the rest of the way so I know how tight they are. Never want to use an impact wrench to tighten bolts like that because what you can end up doing is breaking those bolts, and obviously on a brake system you don't want any broken bolts. We put the wheel back on. Again, I'm just going to use my impact wrench to tighten them up a little bit.
Once you have the car down on the ground, use a nice big wrench, and then generally lug nuts you want to tighten up between 75 and 85 foot pounds. I usually just use a breaker bar and get them tight. Take your cap put it back on. Very important, you want to pump your brakes a bunch of times before you test drive because when you have pushed the pistons back into the calipers it'll take a few presses of the brakes for the pistons to work their way out enough to make the brakes effective. You want to pump your brakes a bunch of times, and then just be very careful when you first test drive the car because on the first few times you use your brakes the brakes might not work exactly great until the pistons have worked their way back out.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Going to take our 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar, and while the vehicle is on the ground, we'll loosen our lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose, I can just take the socket and finish taking them off. Lug nuts loose, we'll take the wheel off and tire and put it aside.
Before you remove the caliper, you need to unbolt the rubber brake line from this bracket here so they have more space to move the caliper. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the backside of it and a little bit here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt—we use a socket and ratchet to remove it. Pull the bolt out, let the hose out of the bracket. Before you remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts, make sure the e-brake is released because the parking brake or e-brake on this car works through the caliper. So if it's tight and pulled you're not going to be able to remove this caliper because it's going to be gripping the brake pads, the rotor, so just make sure that's released first. These are 12 millimeter bolts.
You may also need to counterhold the slide pins. These are 17 millimeter. I'm using a 12 millimeter box wrench to release these. That one I didn't need to counter hold the slide pin, it didn't turn. I'm going to leave that in there and then work on the top one. Remove the bolts. And I have a bungee cord ready. I'm going to hang this caliper up on the spring. May need a large flat bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar and just pump this caliper up and off. Take a bungee cord and hold that off to the side. Pop our old brake pads out of here with the pry bar and remove the lower and upper caliper bracket bolts. These are 14 millimeter—use a 14 millimeter box wrench. They can be on there pretty hard. I'm going to use a dead blow mallet to tap on the wrench to break it free. Work on the top one same way. Those loosen. I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench to make this a little quicker. The top bolt removed. Pull the caliper bracket off and put that aside.
Need to remove the retaining screws that are holding the brake rotor on. Spray a little rust penetrant in here. You need a big Phillips head screwdriver. The problem is when you go to turn it, it's going to want to turn the whole rotor. I'm going to throw a couple lug nuts on here. Take a pry bar and counterhold it and turn. I'm going to have someone help me and hold these with a long breaker bar and then, if you've got a decent screwdriver, you can actually put a wrench on here sometimes to give you a little extra leverage. Set up and try to turn this off. Push in and turn just like that. Let's try this one. If you wreck these taking them out I wouldn't worry about putting them back in.
All they do is hold the rotor against the hub when you've got the wheel off the car or whatever, it just keeps it from being loose, but you could use lug nuts to hold it in place while you reinstall the brake parts. I wouldn't worry about it. I'm going to take off these lug nuts I was using. The rotor is now loose. Careful not to drop it.
Here's the original brake pads from our vehicle and our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. It has the same solid style brake rotor and same style pads. This would be the opposite side, but matching pads with the little pins that go into the piston and the wear indicators. Already come with shims installed. Same amount of lug holes and same holes for the mounting screws. These should fit on there and work great for us. Going to grab our caliper, unhook it from the bungee cord, just kind of move it over here. It’s still attached to the parking brake cable and the brake hose.
This piston can't be pushed in, it needs to be turned in. I'm going to use these needle nose pliers, there are tools for this but I'm going to use these pliers instead, and basically just turn it clockwise because when you pull the parking break it pushes the piston out, and part of that mechanism to retract this piston for our new brake pads, it needs to be turned in, so we're going to turn it clockwise. You don't want this boot to get twisted up that's around the cylinder in the brake caliper, so I'm just going to spray a little bit of rust penetrant. I'm going to take a bit and I'm very carefully just cleaning some of the rust from the edge, and hopefully what happens now is I can turn this piston clockwise and it won't twist the boot. Just using the pick to free it up and the oil to help it slide. I keep turning it. There we go, that's better. Alright.
So, once you get it turned down, just make sure that this is basically vertical. Maybe turn it just a little bit, because the inner pad has a pin on it that's going to sit in this slot. So, that looks pretty good like that. We're going to reuse our caliper bracket hardware. We need to clean it. These are just stainless steel. We’re just going to clean the dirt off. Spray some brake parts cleaner and use a wire brush. Repeat that for both sides. Now is a good time, while you have the caliper bracket off, to check that your slide pins are moving freely. That one feels good. That one also feels good.
If the clip pops off, don't worry about it, just get it cleaned up and clip it back into place. Take our new rotor. I'm going to put it on backwards first, take some break parts cleaner, clean off the oil that they come shipped in, wipe off any excess. I'll grab them by the edge, flip them over. I'm going to line up the counter sunk holes with those threaded holes there. I'm going to find them and line them up. If you've got these screws you can install them, if not, you can leave them off. You can just put a lug nut on here to hold it tight until you get the whole brake assembly back on. We'll put them back in. Just snug them down, they don't have to be super tight. All they do is keep the rotor from moving around when you're installing all the brake parts and taking the wheel and tire on and off.
Now we'll take brake parts cleaner and clean down the face of the rotor. Let's reinstall the bracket. Place it over the rotor, capture top bolts, might have to move the bracket around to get it to line up. That's threaded in. Capture the bottom one. I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench so I can finish installing them and then I'll torque them afterwards. I'm going to torque the caliper bracket bolts to 54 foot-pounds. I'm just going to make sure the brake pad surface is clean. Just hit it with some brake parts cleaner. You don't want to have any grease or dirt on there. Take a little bit of break caliper grease, put it on the ears, and don’t have to go crazy with this stuff. This is going to be the inside pad, it has the wear indicator on it. It's going to sit in here just like this. Repeat that for the outer pad.
Take our bungee cord off, don't forget to take it out of here. Place the brake caliper back onto the bracket. You'll know pretty instantly if you didn't retract the piston far enough because the caliper won't want to go on. So that slid right on. I'm going to reinstall the bolts. Tighten this one up. Might get to a point where you're trying to tighten these caliper slide bolts, then they'll start to spin in the slides. The slides are 17 millimeter. You can use that to counter hold it. I'm just using a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet and I'm just going to tighten this up. The torque on these is 17 foot pounds—it's pretty light.
I'm just going to do it by hand. Just repeat that for the top one. This bleeder screw makes it a little tricky to get a box wrench in here but the socket and ratchet works perfectly. Don't forget, after you're done putting the brakes back together, put the bolt back in holding your rubber brake hose. Tighten that down. Alright. Put the wheel back on the car. You want the lugs caught, get them caught by hand first, we'll torque them with the vehicle weight on it when it's on the ground. Really just need to bring them down until they're seeded. The vehicle on the ground. The lug nut torque is 79.6 foot pounds, so we're going to do it 80. Do this in a cross pattern.
And the final step to push the caliper pistons back out to meet the pads. We're going to gently press in the brake and pump up the pedal pressure, and you'll feel it start to get harder.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Jeremy from 1AAuto. I'm going to help you fix your car today, and the next time you need parts for your car think of 1AAuto.com. Thank you.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for a 2001-2005 Honda Civic. The tools that you'll need for this job include a jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 17mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, large c-clamp, wire brush, some anti-seize, and a torque wrench.
The first step is to break the lug nuts loose, and you do that by leaving the car on the ground so that the wheel doesn't spin when you lift up on it. Here we go. Now we're going to raise the car up and take the wheel off. Now we're going to pull it off.
The next step is to pull these two screws out of the rotor. Normally they're stuck in there really tight, so I try to use a screwdriver first, and then go on to more drastic measures if need be. These are actually coming out.
The next step is to remove these two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can use a ratchet or the style wrench. One trick is to connect the two wrenches together, and then bump them with your fist so you can pull them out. The next thing I like to do is pull the caliper really hard toward me so that it compresses the piston inside the caliper. It makes the caliper loose, making it easier to remove. Remove the caliper.
Now we can take the brake pads out. These ones are in pretty good shape, so we'll probably end up putting these right back in. Then you're going to take off the caliper bracket, which, once again, you can use the same method of linking the wrenches together to break it loose. Now the caliper bracket is off.
Now that we have the caliper bracket off, we can take off the rotor, as you can see.
For reinstall, place the rotor back on the hub. Apply a little anti-seize to the Phillips screws, and put them back in the rotor. Clean up the brake pad slides to make sure that they're not going to make the brake pad bind up and cause uneven brake pad wear. Now we have the caliper bracket that needs to go back on.
Then we can put the bracket right back on after it's nice and clean. We are now ready to put the brake pads in. Normally, they're brand new and you can just slide them in, where this one is used. I'm probably going to put a little anti-seize on this as well. It does exactly what it is called, and it prevents the brake pads from sticking in the slides. You can see the squeaker right here. This is the thing that makes all the noise whenever you need new brake pads. That goes right here on the inside. You're going to need to compress this caliper. The best way to do that is actually with a giant C-clamp. As you can see, as you tighten the C-clamp, it pushes the piston in. Pretty awesome, right? Now it's completely compressed and you can pull the C-clamp out.
Like I said before, put the caliper on. Here's the caliper bolts. Once again, anti-seize. If you live in a dry climate, these things won't be rusty, but in New England, they're always rusty. Voila, your brakes are back together again.
It's now time to put the tire back on. Slide the wheel into place and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle to the ground. The last step is to torque the wheels. I usually a hundred foot-pounds on pretty much all the wheels that I tighten. Basically, grab your torque wrench, always do it in a cross pattern so that the wheel goes on straight. Now the pedal's pumped and the brakes feel good again.
Hopefully this video has helped you out. You can visit us at 1AAuto.com for replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
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