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Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace one of the front wheel drive axle actuators. Usually, if your vehicle seems to be stuck in four-wheel drive or it's making a lot of humming noises, what you can do is, with the car running, you jack up the front wheels. If, with the car running, you turn the front wheels, and the front drive shaft still turns, that's a good indication that these axle actuators, and also, possibly your solenoid that's up behind your battery are stuck. It's a common problem on these trucks.
You'll need new actuators from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, a pry bar, pliers, 8 13, 24 and 30mm sockets, ratchets and breaker bar of pipe for some extra leverage, and a 12mm 12-point socket and ratchet. In the video, we show you the right-hand, or passenger side. The left-hand, or driver side is the same procedure.
To start out, raise and support the vehicle securely, and then remove your center cap. We're going to remove the cap on the end of the hub. With a 13mm socket, we're going to remove the nut from the end of the axle. Where the end of your CV joint meets the solid axle, it's going to be six 12-point 12mm bolts so I'm using a 12-point socket to remove those. Okay, we're just going to do some fast-forwarding here. You can basically hold on to the tire or have an assistant, or you can have somebody hold the brakes for the vehicle. Loosen up those bolts and remove them. I'm going to remove the bolt, the 30mm socket that holds in the lower part of the lower part of the strut assembly, so that we can get more room to pull the CV shaft out. I'm going to fast-forward here as we remove that nut and bolt. Once you get the nut loosened up, you can tap it with a hammer a few times, make sure that the bolt is loose and will come out.
I'm going to use a pry bar and pry out the lower end of the strut assembly from the lower control arm. While I was prying on the lower part of the strut assembly, I was able to pull the CV shaft past this. I'm going to pull the shaft out. We'll just speed it up here. Work the axle out, and then, you actually have to work the lower strut mount out. You can see, we'll us a pry bar and get that moved out of the way. Then the axle comes right out.
There are three 8mm bolts that hold it on. We'll fast-forward here as we remove those 8mm bolts. Using a flat-blade screw driver, I'm going to pry off the actuator. I'm going to disconnect the vacuum hoses.
Here, we have the old part, and here's our new replacement part from 1A Auto, identical. You can see here that when you try to apply pressure, the back of this, where it would engage and disengage the four wheel drive, it doesn't work, whereas our new one is nice and fluid. I'm going to start by connecting the vacuum hoses, placing it back inside and reinstalling the 8mm bolts. We'll fast-forward here again as we reinstall those bolts. We always put the bolts in first and make sure that they can start by hand. Make sure all three of them start in, and then tighten them up.
I'm sliding the CV joint back into place. With the wheel all the way turned out, I'm going to go ahead and re-secure where the strut goes into the lower control arm. Then, once you get that back in place, use the bolts, or you can also use a screw driver or a line-up tool. Get the hole to line up, get the bolt through, put the nut on the back side, and then tighten it up. You want to tighten that bolt up to about 95 to 100 foot-pounds. I'm going to line up the holes in the CV shaft with the solid axle, and reinstall the 12mm 12-point bolts. Once again, we'll fast-forward here. Reinstall the bolts first by hand. Make sure they're turning in there and you're not cross-threading any of the bolts. Then, tighten them up preliminarily. Then, what you want to do, is use a cross pattern. Tighten one up. Then, you want to tighten them up to about 25 foot pounds. Tighten one up, then go to the opposite one. Tighten that one up, and just keep with that pattern until they're all tight. I'm reinstalling the 13-mm nut on the end of the axle, the CV shaft. Reinstall the cap. Align your center hub cover with the pin here and the hole there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi, everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto and today I'm going to show you how to install a wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2011 Ford F-150. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com. To remove the tire, you need a 21 millimeter socket and you're going to break the lug nuts free with the pressure of the vehicle on the tire. Now I'm going to raise and support the vehicle with a two post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands at home. Now that the vehicle's up, I can take the lug nuts off to remove the tire. Be prepared. This thing is heavy. When you have a tire that's stuck on the hub, all the lug nuts are off, obviously you can't pull it off. Always put a lug nut, just hand thread it a little bit so when it does break free, it doesn't bounce back at you. 13 millimeter socket loosens up the outer caliper mounting bolts and now this would be the caliper bolts to the bracket.
Only reason I say that is because if you were to look up torque specs, that's how they would list it, caliber to caliper bracket. You can just put those aside. Now, I can take the outer pad out. Let's get ready to dismount the caliper bracket. So it is a 21 millimeter socket on the caliper bracket to knuckle bolt. There we go. Once you've got them broken free, you just back them all the way out and put the caliper bracket aside.
Now, we can take the rotor off of the hub. To remove this splash guard shield with the body clips, I just use a pair of needle nose pliers or you can use your body plier clip tool. There you go. Go all the way around. There's four clips. For some reason, they make them very long. I just don't want that to come out. Now I'm going to reach up and grab the ABS connector and disconnect it from the fender well. This has a red lock tab on it. Just pull up on that tab and then you could push down on the black part of the tab and push that out. Pull it out there. Now we're going to work our way down with all the connectors. We can disconnect it from the actual brackets. The new wheel bearing will come with new plastic clips so you don't need to save them.
Disconnect it from the flex hose and now we're going to get an eight millimeter socket and we'll disconnect it from the knuckle. You can put your eight millimeter socket on there and take that bracket right off the knuckle. I like to put the bolt right back where I got it. It won't be in the way and I won't lose it. To take this little dust boot cover off, just use a pry bar or a flat head screwdriver. See if you can get it in there. You might need a flat head screwdriver. You can just pry that cover off. This is a 13 millimeter socket. It's not really torqued heavily. It's only 30 foot pounds. But I think it's just the fact that it's on a spinning wheel. Here we go. Use a pry bar. I going to take this completely off. So with an 18 millimeter socket, I'm going to break free all four head bolts and take them out. So now I can remove the wheel hub bolts. Loosen them, took them all out. Now you're going to take a big hammer and tap on that.
So you want to just hit the hub, try to break it free from the knuckle. There you go. Here, we have our new front wheel four wheel drive hub from 1A Auto and this is the factory one we took out, fits a 2011 F-150, comes with the ABS sensor. Four wheel drive activation here, wheel studs and the carrier bearing in the center of the hub. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below. Head on over 1aauto.com.
Got to put a little thread lock on each bolt before I mount it. When installing the hub, make sure the ABS cable is straight up and down at least on this vehicle. It's the way it was designed. So if you do multiple style vehicles, just pay attention to that and then here hand start off four bolts. 18 millimeter. I'm just going to take a ratchet wrench to bottom all these hub bolts out because we're going to have to torque this to 129 foot pounds. I'm going to get everything in place. So you're going to torque the four mounting bolts to the wheel bearing hub through the knuckle, 129 foot pounds. It's an 18 millimeter socket. I'm going to go in a crisscross pattern so I'm going to go to the other side. I'm just going to double check. I'll check the other side real quick. So we're going to cut this little tie off and unravel the ABS wiring harness. Now take note that it's got to go behind the dust shield.
So I'm going to route that like that. Just push it up there with your finger. It's got the clearance. There's the mounting bolt for that. I can take that off and start that by hand. So now I can bolt the ABS harness to the knuckle up in the top arm here. I got to run it. Make sure all the little plastic body clips go in. Run it through this brake line, up and over. That hole is right back there. Let's see if you can see it and now we can connect it to the connector. Line up the tabs, squeeze it, push down that red lock tab. Now if yours came off like mine did, it's really not that hard to put on. Show you real quick. So you can take that white tab out of the fender well and they have an entryway to them and one side has a lock on it. On this end, see how you have a tab here, a tab there? Let it go. It'll snap in. Then you can line it up inside your fender well with those two dimples. Lock it in.
Now we're going to install the spindle, not on the outside here. Manufacturer strongly recommends you replace this. So for camera purposes, we're just going to install the old one and we've ordered the nut. We'll put it on some other time. But I want to put this back together for you guys. So if you know you're going to do a hub or a front end repair where that spindle's coming out, preset yourself up and go to the dealer and order that or hopefully they have in stock. There's a neoprene plastic inside that melts. So they want you to have a new plastic on there. Now that's a 13 millimeter socket and as you can see, it's not really that big. So the torque is only 30 foot pounds. So I set it for 30 foot pounds. I'm going to put a pry bar in here and just ... We're done. So now we can install the dust cap. I'm just going to give it a slight tap. That's it.
Now we're going to place the ball joint down in the spindle. Put the new lock nut on. Okay. Place the rotor on the hub. What I like to do when I have truck rotors or heavy rotors like this, I'm just going to put two or one lug nut on once it bottoms on the hub. Makes the assembly of the brake pads a lot easier. Yeah, I just need one. Now using the mounting bolts for the caliper bracket to the knuckle, you can see how the factory puts in thread locker. I'm going to clean this up with a wire wheel brush. You can use a wire brush at home and then we're going to reapply a thin coat of thread locker and torque these down. I'm just going to add a little thin coat of blue strength, red or blue. It is being torqued down to 184 foot pounds. So I lined the bracket up, put the top bolt in by hand. Now put the bottom bracket bolt in. So the caliper bracket to knuckle is 184 foot pounds. I've got a 21 millimeter socket.
Put the front pad in. So I like to put them down on the bottom, one first so that way I can push and snap it in at the same time. Now I can take my lug nut off and get ready to install the caliper. Okay, the double piston caliper should slide right on. Okay, then we have the two mounting screws. Use a 13 millimeter socket and the torque specs is 27 foot pounds. Now we can install the front flex hose bracket back to the knuckle. Once we tighten that out, we can put our ABS sensor in the bracket. 13 millimeter socket and 27 foot pounds for the caliper to bracket bolts. I'm going to put the fender skirt over the rubber adapter or whatever you want to call it back in. There we go. All right.
Okay. Now we can put the lug nuts on. Now we're just going to bottom out all the lug nuts right to the hub. Lower the vehicle. We'll torque these down to manufacturer's specs. 150 foot pounds in the star pattern. Okay, now the vehicle has pressure on the tire. I didn't lower it all the way enough so there's pressure on the tire and I could torque my lug nuts, 150 foot pounds. One more time for safe measure.
Thanks for watching. Visit us 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to get started on this job is to safely raise and support the truck. After you've done that, remove your center cover here. And then remove all six of your 21-millimeter lug nuts and get the wheel off.
Now that the wheel is off, let's go ahead and get this ABS wire disconnected. I'm just gonna come right along here, and then remove this 8-millimeter bolt.
Now let's go ahead and remove our anchor bolt for our flex hose for the brakes. The next thing we need to do is remove our two caliper bracket bolts. I'm just gonna start that in a couple threads. Now we're gonna remove our caliper and we're gonna hang it so it puts no pressure on the flex hose. Let's remove the rotor. Let's go ahead and remove our vacuum lines here. Let's go ahead and remove this little center cover. Now, let's remove our axle nut. Now we're just gonna push on this axle stub here. If it doesn't move, just go ahead and put the nut back on a few good threads and then give it a couple of loving bonks with a hammer.
Now let's go ahead and get this off of here. Let's go ahead and follow that ABS wire just continue disconnecting it up along the way here, comes up to this area, coming from the back. You're gonna see you have a little push button, go ahead and push on that and then separate the two. Now let's go ahead and get our cotter pin out for our tie rod. Set that aside for recycling. Let's remove the nut. Now we're gonna use a hammer and we're gonna hit right on the knuckle right here to try to break this free.
Now let's remove our upper ball joint nut. Now we're just gonna separate these two. So, now we're just gonna go ahead and put that nut on just a couple small threads here. That's gonna help prevent this knuckle from falling down when we relieve the lower ball joint. The next thing I wanna do is pull down on the upper control arm and we're gonna put it just like this, so it leaves a nice gap between the knuckle and the nut itself, so we can move down to the lower ball joint. Let's just leave this on a couple of threads.
Now the next thing that we need to do is carefully bonk on the knuckle and try to separate the ball joint from it. Let's remove that nut. Hold up on your knuckle, remove the lower ball joint nut. Bring it down and slide it out and away from the vehicle.
Now that we have the knuckle off of the truck, let's go ahead and unbolt this from here. But, before we do that, go ahead and spray it down with some penetrant spray. Let's give this a loving bonk. There it is friends.
The next thing we're gonna do is come along the edges where the actuator was and just try to make sure we get up as much of this debris as possible.
Now that I've got the majority of the crud off the outside here, let's continue on to getting out some of the grease that's inside there. Now we're just gonna grab a little bit of high-temperature bearing grease, and we're gonna go ahead and coat this area. That's gonna help keep moisture out of there. Let's go ahead and get this installed. Lay it down on there, starting all three of your bolts and then we'll snug them up and torque them to 106-inch pounds.
All right. Let's go ahead and clean down this area. All right. Let's go ahead and get this axle back inside the bearing there. We're gonna slide the knuckle up, so we can get the ball joint started on the lower aspect here. There we are. Go ahead and give that axle a nice wiggle and it should wanna set right in and then it's gonna be coming out the other side here. Let's snug this up. Now we're gonna torque this to 85-foot pounds and then we'll continue on to putting on the cotter pin. Now the next thing you wanna do is line up the slots on the nut to the hole in the stud for the ball joint. If for some reason after you torque it, it doesn't line up, continue tightening until the very next slot does. The next thing we need to do is get our axle inside the knuckle as we push the knuckle up, you wanna be very careful not to damage your internal seal.
Now I'm just gonna take a pry bar, come in and under here, and then I'm gonna try to put the ball joint through the knuckle. Go ahead and start with that nut. Snug it up. Torque it to 85-foot pounds. What you wanna do next is make sure that you have your slot lined up with the hole on your ball joint stud. If for some reason it isn't, you need to continue tightening until it is. Next, take your cotter pin, go ahead and put it through the slot and the hole and then, of course, lock it down.
The next thing we're gonna wanna do is put on our axle nut. I like to use a little bit of red thread locker, bottom it out and then torque it to 20-foot pounds. Now that that's torqued, we're gonna go ahead and install this cover. You wanna make sure that it's not damaged in any way and slide it right on there, and bottom it out. Now before we can continue on to putting the brakes together, we wanna make sure that the hub mating surface in the back of the rotor mating surface, is nice and clean. After you've done that, apply a little bit of copper Never-Seez.
Let's go ahead and get our rotor back on here. I'm gonna start a lug nut on so it holds the rotor for me. Let's get our caliper reattached. We're gonna use some thread locker, of course, on the bolts. Start them both in and then we're gonna torque them to 185-foot pounds. Let's get our vacuum lines reattached. Now we're gonna reconnect in our bracket. ABS wire. Let's snug them up. Let's start resecuring our ABS wire, make sure you go up and in between the brake line here, just like that.
This looks good for now. Make my way down here. Get a little push clip. It's gonna go into your hole right there. The rest of it should just line up, we'll continue on. Making our way up here, let's make sure we reconnect in our ABS wire. Listen for a click. And then, of course, give it a nice tug. After that, you wanna make sure that you secure it back in up here. Make sure everything's nice and secured and it's definitely not rubbing up against anything and there's no way it can get caught.
Let's get the outer tie rod end on here. Snug this up, torque it to 85-foot pounds. The next thing we wanna do is make sure that our slots line up with the hole in the stud for the tie rod. If for some reason it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the next one does. Install your locking cotter pin and then lock it down. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start all of your lug nuts, snug them up, and torque them to 150-foot pounds. Torqued. Okay, friends. So, that's pretty much it, aside from making sure you pump up that brake pedal and then get yourself safely down to an alignment shop.
