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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Lifetime Warranty
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Okay friends. To get started on replacing our serpentine belt tensioner, we're gonna have to remove our serpentine belt. It's always a great idea to inspect the serpentine belt to make sure it's in good condition. Ours is not in good condition so I'm gonna be replacing it. If you're worried about the belt routing, you can either draw what this looks like on a piece of paper or of course, if you were to look at the front of your vehicle right along the cowl, you should see a nice diagram here for you and just go by that. With that said, we're gonna use the serpentine belt tool and we're gonna come right down along this area to the serpentine belt tensioner right in the center. We're gonna turn this counterclockwise and it'll relieve tension of the belt and then we'll get the belt out of the way. Counterclockwise and we'll get the belt right off. Release that. Get our tool out of the way. Remove the belt fully so you can inspect it. I'll set that aside for now. Now looking at the serpentine belt tensioner, you're gonna be able to see the mounting bolt located right here. To get to that, you're gonna use a T-50 Torx socket. That socket's gonna look like this and it looks like a star. You need a T-50. Put this right on there. We're gonna turn it counterclockwise obviously and remove the center bolt.
There we are. All right. Now that we've got that like that, we should be able to break this smooth from the engine and remove it. I'll just remove the bolt from our old tensioner. We can go ahead and install it into our new tensioner. Just give them a quick look over. Make sure they're the same. This looks perfect as I would expect. Let's get ready for an install. Looking at the back of the tensioner, you're gonna see there's two little pitons. If you look down at the engine where it's supposed to mount, you're gonna see a hole and another hole. We need, obviously, those pitons to line up with there, and the bolt to line up with its bolt hole. Press down here. Line up those pitons and of course, our bolt. We'll start this bolt in and then we're gonna snug it up. Once we have it bottomed out, we'll torque it to 41 foot-pounds. Okay. That's bottomed out. Let's switch to the torque wrench. Once again, we're torquing this to 41 foot-pounds. That's torqued. Now we wanna compare our old belt to our new belt. I'm just gonna take one finger like this and put it through. Then I'm gonna go down to the other end, same thing, with one finger, put it through. And then I wanna try to line these up. We want them to be approximately the same length overall. This looks great. The next thing that you would wanna do is, of course, turn them to the inside and you'd wanna count those ribs.
For me, personally on mine, I know that my belt was damaged and it was missing a whole rib so I'm just gonna have to go with the imagination that it's there. Count them up. It should come out even. Perfect. Now that we've got the belt up inside the engine compartment area, we just wanna take a quick look at that belt routing. If you have it written down someplace or if you look at that diagram, you're gonna be ready to go. Whenever I'm gonna be replacing my serpentine belt or even just removing and reinstalling, I always like to try to clean out any of the areas on the pulleys as I can. So now we're just gonna open up our belt like this and I'm gonna take this hand right here, I'm gonna go down and around that crank. The crank is the main pulley of the engine so that's where I always like to start. I'm gonna go right around it completely. Try to make sure it's set in there if possible. I'm gonna take the...the ribbed end and I'm gonna go out and around this idler pulley right here. So what I did here is I put the belt around all my pulleys, an exception of just the one. And yeah, you could try to go where the tensioner is but that's gonna be the hardest pulley to put it over last because, of course, you're gonna have your tool in the way. What I would do at this point is I would just hold tension where my finger is now.
I would remove the belt carefully from the power steering pump all the way on the other side, put it on the tensioner just like this. And now, of course, I'm holding pressure again and I'm gonna get my belt tensioner on there on my tool, on my belt tensioner, relieve the tension from it and just try to slide it over the pulley now. Be careful for any pinch points. You don't wanna get your finger pinched in any way. Once you feel as though you get your belt on there, it's ultra important to make sure you double check all of your pulleys. What I mean by that is you wanna make sure that the belt is sitting directly inside of all the grooves on the pulley. If you notice that the belt is hanging off on one side or the other, you're gonna cause detrimental damage to your belt and you're gonna have to replace it again. Nobody wants to do that. Double-check all the way around all of your pulleys. You can feel around. This actually feels really great. All right. Let's start it up and double-check it. And when I start this up, I'm only gonna run it for maybe five seconds and then I'm gonna turn it right off and I'm gonna double-check to make sure it's sitting the way that it needs to. After a short amount of time of running, you should very easily be able to see if you missed a tooth on your belt routing. Okay. So now I'm just double-checking. I always like to double, even triple-check my work sometimes. This feels perfect. All right. Next thing, close the hood. Take it for a road test.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
We're going to remove this whole panel. We're going to start by taking off the spare tire jack crank. Take that off and now there's a series of clips they have Phillips head screws in them. We'll show you how to get them out.
There's four across the front. Two more which are missing on this vehicle and then there's two clips back here which are a different style, although I'm pretty sure they should be this Phillips screw style. The way these should come out is you turn them counter-clockwise and very lightly, almost pull up on the screwdriver while you're doing it so they come out. Then once you have that out the whole clip will come up and out. You may run into them where they don't want to come out that easily, in that case you'll probably need a little 90 pick tool, although sometimes you can be successful getting. Sometimes you can get a fingernail under there, but what you'll probably have to do is get a pick tool right in underneath just to pry up a little bit when you turn it and pull it out.
These ones back here are a different style you pry up. Pull the center up and pull it out. Although I'm pretty sure these should be the Phillips screw style. I should have all the clips off, panel lifts up and off. I'm going to remove this cover. Two 10mm bolts on this side and one over on the passenger side. And remove those, 10mm socket and ratchet. Loosen the throttle body clamp with a flat blade screwdriver. Then you just kind of pull up and down on the whole ducting.
There are tubes that go in the side, once you pull it off the throttle body you can twist a little bit and pull those tubes free. Clamp for the air filter, pull that off and there's two connectors. One easy to see here, press down on the tab and disconnect. You may press on the tab, use your screwdriver and pry a little bit to help loosen it up. Connector's off and then there's another connector. Press the tab and disconnect. And the intake tube comes up and out.
Okay, you can see we have a lot of stuff off the front of our engine, which is good so we can show you how the belt routes, but obviously it's going to be more compact for you. Here at the top, the belt's on the alternator, goes down around the power steering pump, back up around your water pump then down and around the crank, up and around your tensioner, back down for your AC pulley and then back up across this idle pulley and to the alternator.
You're going to want to feed a breaker bar up from the bottom. And you're going to have the fan here, but you should be able to reach up and in and get your breaker bar in and grab and pull down. Once you pull down, you can flip it off of one of the pulleys and then release your breaker bar slowly and take it out. And now you can reach down, bring the belt up, flip it off the water pump, and pull it up and out, and then pretty much the hardest part will be get it off your AC compressor, and pull it up through.
Three 10 millimeter bolts hold the tensioner on. One, two, and three. And they're all very reachable from up top. You'll have a little less room because the fan and fan shroud are in the way, but it's still very doable. And as the last bolt comes out, and I always save the top one for last because it's easiest to turn by hand, pull your tensioner up and out.
And to reinstall, put it down in place. Start your first 10 millimeter bolt back in. Torque these to 15 to 22 foot pounds.
Obviously we have a lot of stuff removed. This is so we can show you this process easier but you will have to contend with your fan and stuff. Take a loop between the idler and the tensioner pulleys. Push it down in and you can get it from below but push it down in and put a loop over your AC then take your belt, push it down underneath your crank shaft and put a loop around the crank shaft. Okay and then it comes up, over the water pump and down over the alternator and we'll leave it off of the power steering pulley. That'll be the last part we put on.
We're going to use a half in ratchet and the bigger ratchet you have, the better because you're going to want to feed it up into here, get it into your tensioner and keep in mind your fan will be on for some repairs. Get that ratchet as high as you can and then reach through, pull the tensioner down and then pull your belt onto your power steering pulley. It's not working on the power steering pulley, let it come off the water pump pulley, get it on the power steering pulley, sometimes it's easier to push up and onto the smooth pulley but again you'll have your fan in the way in some places. Then release the tensioner and remove your ratchet.
Put your air intake in place. Back in place over here. The tab winds up there and this clamp goes on. Just reach down and make sure nothing's getting pinched. Lock that down into place and your mass air flow connection, reconnect it. Reconnect this connector. Tube down here goes in there. Flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the clamp that holds it onto the throttle body. Throttle body cover back in place. And kind of move it around a little bit, figure out where the bolt hole is. I'm actually cheating, just looking right through here. See there, start it up and then push this side down into place and start my two bolts over here and then tighten them up.
Put the cover back on. It's in place, you can see all the holes. These back clips, just make sure the center's popped up. Push them down in, push the center in and then these ones across the front, clip in first and just push the center right in to lock it. Put your jack handle back in.
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