Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension kits are offered in a variety of options to best fit your repair needs and your budget.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Okay, friends. To get started on this vehicle, the first thing we want to talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you want to make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension's hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Okay, friends. So here's our front sway bar link. As you can tell ours is broken at the top. So I have the new one here to show you. If you were to look at it, you have the stud that comes down through the bottom of the control arm. Following it up, you're going to find another stud up along the top that comes to the top of the sway bar itself. On top of that, there'll be a little bushing, a washer, and a nice nut. You would of course remove the nut and then the washer and the bushing, and then you'll be left with this.
Next, we're going to move right down here and we're going to remove this nut. I'm just going to take a nice pair of locking pliers like this, clamp it onto this stud, make it as tight as possible. Let's remove that 18 millimeter nut. Okay, for us personally, where the top of ours is broken, this is going to come out nice and easy. If you still had the top of the stud on your sway bar link, what you're going to notice is it's going to be very hard to get it out. You could try to pry up on the pry bar and see if you can squeeze it out. But in all actuality, when you're replacing sway bar links, you do them as a pair anyway. So now's a perfect time to go over and remove the right one as well.
Here we are. There's our old sway bar link. Let's dispose of this properly and grab our new one. Let's go ahead and take apart our sway bar link so it looks like this with a washer and one bushing up along the top there. You can slide it into either direction you want, and then of course, we're going to bring the bar down once we have the other side in as well. Let's start this nut on here. Looking at the lower aspect of the sway bar link, where it's going to connect to the actual control arm, you can see there's like a little nut there. We're going to hold that and then turn this.
Now we're going to snug up this nut and we're just going to watch these bushings right here. You wanna see them touch up against the bar, but you definitely don't want to see them squished down so they look like a pancake and start bubbling out. That looks pretty great right there. You can see it's squished down here, squished down there. It's definitely making contact with both sides of the bar. Do the same thing to the other side and make sure you have the same amount of threads on both sides. Let's torque this to 20 foot-pounds. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're going to start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Okay, friends, to get started on this vehicle, the first thing we wanna talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you wanna make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension is hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a nice, clear view of our tie rod ends. Just a quick note, whenever I'm replacing tie rod ends, I usually like to do them as a pair. With that said, let's break free our jam nut. Here, we are.
Let's get our locking cotter pin out of here. Here we are. Let's go ahead and remove this nut. Put that back on a couple of threads. The next thing we're gonna do is separate the tie rod end from the knuckle itself. You can do that with a couple loving bonks, with a hammer. Unscrew the outer tie rod end and make sure you count the threads as you come off, 1, 2, 3 and so on. 22 for me. The next thing we need to do is remove our jam nut from our inner tie rod end. I'm gonna hold that inner tie rod end with some locking pliers.
Next, we're gonna remove the clamp that holds our Bellows boot to the inner tie rod end. So now if you follow your boot towards the inside where your power steering rack is, you're gonna find that there's a little lip right here. You're gonna wanna just kind of have a nice pry bar like this and a hammer, and we're gonna break that free. It's not reusable, so you're gonna have to replace it with something different. Now, let's go ahead and grab onto that boot. Give it a nice twist to break it free. And we're gonna try to pull it off of the inner tie rod end. There it is.
Double check your boot, make sure it's not worn or torn in any way. If it is, you'd wanna replace it, this one looks great. Now we have to unscrew our inner tie rod end from the rack itself. To do that, you can use a tool that looks like this. It's just gonna go around the bobble down here. Or of course you can use pliers or even a wrench. Whatever you need to do, unscrew it. Okay let's get this off of here. Now that that's off, I always like to clean up the mess that might be around the area, clean up the threads and then of course around it. Time to start in our new inner tie rod end. I like to use a little bit of threadlocker, but we'll call it your prerogative.
Once you have it bottomed out, just make sure you go ahead and give it a little snug. Your inner tie rod end came with some grease. You're gonna use that right along this area right here and then a little bit on the inner tie rod and shaft. I like to use a nice brush I don't like to get it on my hands. Just pack it right in there and make sure it's nice and lubricated and then some right up along this groove right there. That's where the boot's gonna sit. This is gonna help your alignment be professional. The next thing we need to do is prepare our boot so it can be mounted. Take a nice wire tie, I'm just gonna start right on here. Here we are, not too tight. Do the same on the other side, if you're not reusing your clamp, take your boot. We're gonna slide it right on there. Slide it over the rack so you're sure it's nice and secure. That feels good.
We're gonna slide this forward end so it goes over that little lip. You can see it right there, put it right up against it. Perfect. Make sure your boot's sitting perfectly on the rack. And now we're going to snug everything up. Trim from off the excess. Next, we're gonna put a little bit of grease or copper, never seize on the threaded area here. Go ahead and put on your jam nut, put it halfway down the threaded area. Time to put on the outer tie rod end. Make sure you put on as many turns as you did to remove the original 1, 2, 3, and so on. That should line up perfectly. If it doesn't you might've moved this a little bit, or you might be off. Snug this up, torque this to 45 foot-pounds.
Now we need to take a look and make sure that the slotted area of our nut lines up with the hole in the tie rod stud, if it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the first one does. Go ahead and pin that over. Now, it's gonna be time to tighten our jam nut. To do that, you wanna hold your tie rod so it can't spin because you don't wanna damage the ball and socket area. Now let's go ahead and snug this. There we go. If your tie rods crooked, just make sure you straighten it out so it's level with the ground. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're gonna start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Okay, friends. To get started on this vehicle, the first thing we wanna talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you wanna make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension's hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a nice, clear view of our tie rod ends. Just a quick note, whenever I'm replacing tire rod ends, I usually like to do them as a pair. With that said, let's break free our jam nut.
Here we are. Let's get our locking cotter pin out of here. There we are. Let's go ahead and remove this nut. Put that back on a couple of threads. The next thing we're gonna do is separate the tie rod end from the knuckle itself. You can do that with a couple loving bonks with a hammer. Unscrew the outer tie rod end and make sure you count the threads as you come off, one, two, three, and so on. Twenty-two for me. Time to put on the outer tie rod end. Make sure you put on as many turns as you did to remove the original, one, two, three, and so on. That should line up perfectly. If it doesn't, you might've moved this a little bit or you might be off. Snug this up, torque this to 45 foot-pounds. Now we need to take a look and make sure that the slotted area of our nut lines up with the hole in the tie rod stud. If it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the first one does. Go ahead and peen that over.
Now it's gonna be time to tighten our jam nut. To do that, you wanna hold your tie rod so it can't spin because you don't wanna damage the ball and socket area. Now let's go ahead and snug this. There we go. If your tire rod's crooked, just make sure you straighten it out so it's level with the ground. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're gonna start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds.
