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Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brake pads and rotors on this 2004 Dodge Ram 1500. This is a full-drive. This procedure is generally the same for most of this generation truck. Tools you'll need are 7/8, actually, or a 22 millimeter, pretty much the same size, 13/16", 13 millimeter sockets, ratchet. You'll probably want a breaker bar or a pipe to get some leverage on your ratchet handle. A sledge hammer if your rotors are rusted like they were on our vehicle, a large screwdriver or a small pry bar, wire brush, large C-clamp and we also use some penetrating oil.
First, you want to remove your wheel. If you're just using hand tools, start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first and then raise it, secure it with jack stand then remove the wheel. I've got air tools and I use them. Either the 7/8" or 22 millimeter, both will work. Okay, and we'll fast forward here as I remove the lug nuts, the cap and the wheel. Now, with the wheel off, you can check the condition of your brakes or your rotors. Use the back of your finger. Just run them up and if you're feeling hard ridges, or this actually has some pretty deep bruise here so I'm actually going to replace these rotors. Then you can check the condition of your pads. As you can see, my pads are actually in pretty good shape. The pad is right there and I will only turn the rotor. On the rotor, you can see turning for pads right next to it. There are some pretty good bites in the pad but I don't like the look of these rotors so I'm going to replace the rotors and pads.
What you want to do, take a large pry bar or large screw driver or a small pry bar like this. You're going to pry out on the caliper. It pushes the pistons. These are pistons right here. By prying out those pistons, get pushed back into the caliper. You remove the caliper; you're going to want to remove two 13 millimeter bolts, one here and then one up here. Pretty easy and it's loosen up, supposed to be too tight but it will come up with a small ratchet and then socket or wrench. The caliper comes off, take that, just left it up here for now. Now, your brake pads, it will just come right out. You'll need your pry bar and I got it right out. Now, you can see that rotor is still blocked by this bracket. To get the bracket off, it's two bolts, one here, one here. What I'm finding the best is a 13/16", 21 millimeters looks like is a little too big. It's kind of odd that they go back and forth between standard and metric.
When these bolts are done, you'll either want a breaker bar like this or you could just have a ratchet and a piece of pipe, put it under your ratchet or your breaker bar, give yourself an extra leverage and loosen up the bolts. Just be careful when you do this, you'd pull nicely so it doesn't jerk. I mean, you're putting not much torque on it. You don't want to pull off the bolt. After showing you how to do the leverage, I just cheat and use the impact wrench anyways. I'm going to spray the rotor with tons of penetrate. Hopefully, it's getting there. On your vehicle, you maybe want to do this, just sit it overnight and come back on the back side of the rotor and the hub. Pull out the big gun.
You probably noticed the shiny, new hub there. I did do this brake video along with a couple of other repairs. If you like to see the other steps involved in replacing that hub, then just check out our other videos. You go on nicely. I would just take a lug nut. Just sort of somewhat hold on there while I put the brakes together. This is the bracket that the caliper bolt too is on and has a stainless steel slide here. This one will take a wire brush to clean those off real good.
Now, we have two lug bolts, 13/16", just put the bracket on like that. Just a reminder, the bracket goes on the disc side and the bolts go in. I'm going to tighten these bolts a little bit. Made my tool crunch and tighten it to 110 pounds. Now, I'm just going to wipe rotors down, just a little bit of Mineral Spirits here, just to make sure there's nothing on, Mineral Spirits brake cleaner even gasoline as long as it cleans off grease and then evaporate quickly. Okay, my new pads from 1AAuto, exactly the same as the old pads. On here, I assemble around within a minute. It's pretty to put to these on, but what I found was that the brake disc was wobbling around and preventing me so I put another bolt on it and just another, that's all set.
For the next step, you may want to loosen your brake fluid cap a little. When we pried out the caliper, we attempted to reset the pistons. You see the pistons are still slipping out. What we can do is just take an old tab and then a large C-clamp. Then you have the C-clamp to reset pistons, as I tighten the C-clamp, the pistons go further in. Caliper back on just to make sure that these are sliding nice and free. Got to push them all the way that way, and then put this back on. You put the top up in first and then the bottom. You'll now start your 13 millimeter bolts and we'll put these in. Then torque comes to 25 pounds.
Then we'll fast forward through the preliminary tightening of those bolts. I'll fast forward it a little bit here. Remove those two lug nuts that I used to hold the rotor in place, then put the wheel back up on. Hand-thread the lug nuts and then I just tighten them up preliminary with the air wrench. Then, as you lower the vehicle on the ground and then tighten the lug nuts, 120 pounds and you want to create a star pattern as you're torqueing them.
Last very important step, make sure you reset your disk brakes by pumping them and then before you road test, you stop from 5 and 10 miles an hour just to make sure your vehicle just stop before you enter the roadway.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844, 3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 Dodge Durango, pretty much the same for any 2004 to 2009 Durango as well as the same year Chrysler Aspen. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 13mm to 22mm sockets with a ratchet, large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, hammer, a wire brush, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
If you don't have the benefit of air tools start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first then raise and support the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire. Okay, turn the wheel by hand or with the steering wheel to get better access to the back of the caliper. Next take a large screwdriver or a small pry bar, put it right in here and pry it out. This helps to return the piston back into the caliper a little bit, it loosens it up. Next, there are two 13mm bolts to remove, here and up here. These bolts should not be on there too tight so you should be able to get off with the small ratchet. Once those are out, then your caliper should come off. Here I just find that I need to pry out and reset the pistons a little more with the big screwdriver. Take the caliper and put it up there. Then the pads come right out.
You can see the pads are pretty thin. On this side, do the same thing. On these rotors, take the back of your fingernail and you can run it on the front and back side, you want to feel for any deep grooves. If there's no deep grooves and you have no pulsating in your brake pedal then you can usually install new pads as long as these are in good shape. I'm going to show you how to put new rotors on.
You're going to remove two larger bolts here and here next. These two bolts are going to be on there very tight, so either you want a breaker bar like this or what I do a lot is I take my ratchet and I put a piece of pipe on there, that gives me some extra leverage and then you just slowly add force to the pipe until the bolts start breaking free. Always go nice and slow and smoothly. I'll just speed it up here as I just use my ratchet to remove those two bolts the rest of the way. Those bolts are 22mms. That bracket comes off. Your hope is that, with a little tapping, the rotor will come off. If that doesn't work, what I do is I put the lug nuts back on and use the ball head on the ball peen hammer.
Here's a new rotor from 1A Auto; put it right in place. The next thing you want to do is take one of your old pads, and bring your caliper down. It's tough to show you, but just stick your old pad in there. Then take a large C-clamp like this, put into place and then as you tighten the C-clamp, the pistons get pushed back into the caliper. In order to put the new pads on you'll have to do this. Release that. Take that out. Now these pistons are back, pushed into the caliper.
Now on our caliper bracket, I'm just going to take a wire brush and clean off these stainless steel slides. Put our bracket on. I'm just going to fast forward here. Basically just move the bracket around a little bit, push those bolts in and thread them clockwise and they'll go in. Then tighten them up preliminarily with your ratchet and socket. Pull these to 110 foot pounds.
Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You generally want this wear indicator on the outside, facing the top. They go in just like before, put them right in place and together. Then bring our -- on the caliper there's slides here, make sure they are nice and free and you want to push them all the way, push them out as far as you can. Now, put the bottom on first. There's a little tab down here, get that under the slide here. What you might have to do sometimes is push your disk in and make sure all the pads are in the right place. Pull this out a little bit and get everything down into place. It's just a matter of finding the holes for the bolts. Get them started. Then these bolts should be tightened up around 20 to 22 foot pounds. I usually pull them tight with a small wrench like this.
Then straighten the steering back out either with your hands or by using the steering wheel. Then remount your wheel and tire, put the lug nuts on by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily before you put the vehicle down on the ground. Obviously we show you the passenger's side, but you'll want to do the driver's side. Always do your brakes in pairs. Now tighten your lug nuts up anywhere from a 100 to 120 foot pounds. Last but not least, make sure that you pump your brake pedal until you get it nice and firm and then do test stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1aauto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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