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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads and rotors in this 2008 Dodge Ram. This procedure is similar for Dodge Ram 1500s from 2002 to 2010, excluding Mega Cabs.
You'll need new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, 10-22 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extensions, a breaker bar, pry bar or large flat-blade screwdriver, a hammer, wire brush, brake cleaner, brake grease, vise grip pliers, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22-millimeter socket and a breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with the jack and jack stands. This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off-road tire and 20-inch wheel, it's going to be real heavy, so we're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Remove the two 10 millimeter bolts for the caliper slides. Using the small pry-bar or a large flat-blade screwdriver, pry the caliper out of the bracket and off of the pads. You'll have to start on the bottom, as there's a retainer hook on the top side of the caliper that you'll have to pivot the bottom out, pull down, and then pry the top out to remove. Rest that up on the leaf spring while we finish removing our brake components.
Using the 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the rear axle. Our rear rotor is frozen onto the hub in the rear axle. You'll want to make sure that your e-brake shoes are spun down if they're contacting the inside of the rotor. In this case, ours aren't touching, so we're going to hit the sides to free the inner brake shoes from the hat of the rotor, as well as the front to free it from the hub, being careful not to hit and damage the studs. While hitting it head on may seem counterproductive, the shock will break all the rust loose around the center and the wheel studs.
Here we have our old rotor and pads that we removed from the rear of our truck, as well as our new Nakamoto replacement parts available exclusively at 1AAuto.com. Our new parts are made to strict OEM specifications using the same types of casting materials as the original equipment manufacturer does. They're built to the exact same specifications. They're a very high quality part and a great value replacement for your vehicle.
Using a small steel wire brush, remove any surface rust and scaling from the hub and the hub center before reinstalling your rotor to make sure that it sits on there flat and doesn't rust back onto the hub. Install your rotor onto the hub backwards, and spray it down with some brake parts cleaner. This will remove the cosmoline coating that's put on brake rotors at the factory to keep them from rusting in storage.
Put some brake grease onto the tip of your finger, and coat the contact surface of the hub. Be sure to keep this grease off of the threads on your studs. Otherwise, it can affect your wheel torque when we reinstall the wheel. Just a thin coating is fine. This is just to keep corrosion from building up to make sure that our brake rotor comes off easily next time we have to replace our brakes.
Carefully install your rotor. Clean that surface down with some more brake parts cleaner. Carefully remove the brake caliper slide hardware from the caliper carrier. Clean the contact surface with the steel brush. Now you don't have to make this spotlessly clean, but you do want to remove most of the heavy buildup, corrosion, and scaling to ensure that that hardware, whether you'll be cleaning it up or replacing it, sits nice and flat. Once you get the majority of the scaling off, repeat this process on the opposite end. Depending on how badly corroded your brake slides are, you can either buy new ones or you can clean them up with a wire brush.
Clean up all the contact points on both sides. Snap them back on. Grease the contact points on the pad where it's going to touch into the caliper bracket. After greasing your brake pad, install it into the caliper bracket on the back side because you can't do this on the vehicle. Make sure it's as far out as you can get it. Install the caliper bracket back onto the truck. Install your two 21 millimeter bolts. Tighten them down with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, then torque to 100 foot-pounds.
Apply grease to the same contact points on your outside pad. Install this into the carrier. Apply a thin coat of grease to the shim on the back side of each pad. This is to keep the contact points where the caliper's going to compress the pads together from making noise or developing corrosion, and possibly seizing onto each other. We're going to push the slides out of the caliper all the way one way, pop the boot off. Go ahead and push them right through there. You may need a pair of Groove Lock or slip-jaw pliers. Finish removing that. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to these slides as well. This will keep them from seizing in the bore, moving smoothly and making sure our caliper rides where we want it to be. Work it back into the boot. Press it through. Make sure the boot clips back onto the grooves in the end. Repeat this step for the other pin.
Using a pair of Groove Lock pliers, carefully compress the piston back into the caliper. We want to do this slowly to make sure that we don't force any fluid in, or possibly blow a seal. It shouldn't take much pressure. If it does or it won't move, your piston is likely seized. You'll have to replace the caliper as well. Reinstall the caliper onto the carrier bracket.
Reinstall your two 10 millimeter bolts. Tighten these bolts with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque to 22 foot-pounds.
Start your lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lugs as far as you can. Remember to bring the wheel down evenly, and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we are going to show you how to install or replace the parking brake shoes and hardware in this 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. This one's a 2008, but the procedure is pretty much the same for 2007 to 2010 Dodge Ram 1500s, excluding mega cabs.
You'll need a new parking brake shoe and a hardware kit from 1AAuto.com, twenty one and twenty two millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extension, breaker bar, chisel, hammer, locking, needle nose pliers, flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, brake cleaner, brake grease, torque wrench, a jack, and jack stands.
Put the vehicle on the ground. Using a twenty two millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with a jack and jack stands. This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off-road tire and twenty-inch wheel, it's going to be really heavy, so we're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Remove the caliper carrier and caliper as an assembly using a twenty one millimeter socket and breaker bar. Remove the caliper bracket and caliper. Secure it out of your way using a bungee cord.
Our rear rotor is frozen onto the hub in the rear axle. You'll want to make sure that your E-brake shoes are spun down if they are contacting the inside of the rotor. In this case, ours aren't touching, so we're going to hit the sides to free the inner brake shoes from the hat of the rotor as well as the front to free it from the hub being careful not to hit and damage the studs. While hitting it head on might seem counterproductive, the shock will break all the rust loose around the center and the wheel studs.
Remove the two clips securing the E-brake shoes onto the retaining pins. We're going to use the chisel and the hammer to try to tap them up and off of the pins. Using a pair of needle nose vice grips, latch on to the lower spring. You want to get on there nice and tight, because these are under some tension. Try and hold the shoe into place and release the hook of the spring from the bottom of the shoe. Use the same process to remove the larger front spring at the top. We don't have to fully remove that as long as it's disconnected for right now to take that tension off.
Spread the E-brake shoes and remove the adjuster wheel. Pry off the shoe from the mechanism at the top. You want to try to get it off and forward. Wiggle that out of the spring. Remove the opposite side. The springs get a little bit hung up there on the way up.
Here we have our old parking brake shoes and hardware that we removed from the truck and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, all of our parts are exactly the same. We have some longer ears on the adjuster that aren't going to affect anything, as well as some different retaining clips to hold the shoes down onto the backing plate. Also, not a big deal, just a different style. They are still the same dimensions and will go right in.
Be sure when installing the new E-brake shoes the larger groove is on the bottom. This groove and the half-moon slot sit into the top. While there is a top and bottom to these shoes, there is no front and rear.
We're going to hook through our spring from the front here this spring sits on the rear. You're going to want the long end of the spring to sit forward toward the front of the truck. I'm going to set our brake shoes over the hub. Pry out and reinstall them onto the mechanism at the top. The spring that faces out toward us is going to go in the same way with this longer part of the spring going toward the front of the truck. Sits into the same grooves as the one we have just installed on the rear. Get on there nice and tight with your pair of needle nose vice grips. Quite a bit of tension on these. You may only get it set part way on there, at which point you'll just want to use like a pry bar. Just pop it in into the channel.
Spread the bottom of the brake shoes, and install the adjuster as you see here with the star wheel facing the front of the truck. Be sure that it sits fully into the large groups at the bottom. Install the lower spring as you see here. Hook one side in. Set the other end into place with your needle nose vice grip. Again, you may only get this to install partially, at which point you'll want to use the end of your grip or screwdriver to pop the hook into place.
We're going to install these retaining pins into the back of the backing plate, so it's just going to be a little difficult for you to see once it's in the vehicle. You're going to set these over the pin. Press down on the end of this spring clip and rotate it ‘til the pin locks into that groove. There's a small hole here in the back of the backing plate as well as on the opposite side where we'll install our retaining pin through there and through the corresponding holes in our brake shoe. You're going to want to get your finger to hold that in place. Send the spring clip in and lock it down onto the other side. Repeat this step on the opposite side.
Using the small wire brush, remove any surface rust and scaling from the hub and the hub center before reinstalling your rotor to make sure that it sits on there flat and doesn't rust back on to the hub.
Install your rotor onto the hub backwards and spray it down with some brake parts cleaner. This will remove the Cosmoline coating that's put on brake rotors at the factory to keep them from rusting in storage. Be sure to get the inner edge here, because that's where our parking brake shoes are going to ride. Put some brake grease onto the tip of your finger and coat the contact surface of the hub. Be sure to keep this grease off of the threads on your studs, otherwise it can affect your wheel torque when we reinstall the wheel. Just a thin coating is fine. This is just to keep corrosion from building up to make sure that our brake rotor comes off easily next time we have to replace our brakes.
Carefully install your rotor, and clean that surface down with some more brake parts cleaner. Put your truck in neutral and make sure that the rotor spins freely. Ours is going to have a little bit of resistance to it because we have what's called the positive traction rear end, which locks the axles together and keeps both rear tires in the truck turning together. While it does take a little bit of force to move, it moves nice and smooth and you can hear a very light dragging of the parking brakes shoe against the inside of the rotor, which is just how we want it. If you do have to adjust your E-brake up for whatever reason, the star wheel that we installed on the bottom can be accessed through this rubber plug, which you can remove from the back. That will allow you to rotate it to push the brake shoes out closer to the inside of the rotor as necessary.
Remove whatever you used to secure your brake caliper and carrier assembly out of the way. Slide it back onto the rotor. Reinstall your two twenty-one millimeter bolts into the caliper bracket. You can use the socket and ratchet if you need to to get them down tight. Ours is going in nice and smooth by hand, so we'll just bottom them out and tighten them. Its a hundred foot pounds with twenty-one millimeter socket and torque wrench.
Start your lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lugs as far as you can. Remember to bring the wheel down evenly and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to a hundred and thirty five foot pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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All right. Raise and support your vehicle and remove your wheel.
Now we have a clear view of the caliper. Let's take a small pry bar, come right in between here, and carefully push back our caliper a tiny bit. Perfect. Looking from the backside, you're going to see two caliper bracket mounting bolts. One located right here, one there, remove the pair. Set your caliper aside. Let's get this rotor off of here. Now that the rotor's off, we need to go ahead and spread the shoes so we can take our e-brake adjuster out. There we are. Getting it out of there is going to be the hardest part. I'll just leave it in there. Next, we're going to remove this green spring right here. Usually, if you push the shoes together, it'll kind of work its way off of there. At this point, we can kind of spread the shoes a little bit. At this point, we can get our adjuster and spring out of there. Next, it's going to be time to relieve the anchor points for this. There's going to be a pin that comes from the backside of the backing plate and it comes through to right there. And then there's going to be a retention clip.
For the clip itself, I'm just going to kind of push a pry bar up against it, and then I'm going to give it a couple of loving bonks just to try to break it free from the pin. There we are. Go ahead and grab that pin from the back. Set that aside. There's our clip. Now, we'll just do the same to the other side. So, now that those anchor points are free, I'm just going to wiggle the shoes around a little bit. If you look right along here, I can see where there's one of the springs that comes into the shoe there followed along to the other shoe, it goes in over there. Something that I like to mention is that it has two of these springs, one on the forward side or the outward side, and then one on the backside that you can't even really see from here. The next thing I'm gonna do is take a long screwdriver or pry bar like this, I'm going to try to come underneath and I'm going to try to separate the shoe from its mating point down here. There we are.
Get that out of there. Awesome. Let's see if I can take a look. Do the same thing to the other one. So, the next thing that would be easiest to do, of course, if you're replacing the hardware would be to go ahead and cut these springs. If you're not replacing the hardware, well, then don't cut the springs and just keep working at trying to get it to free up and get the spring off of the shoe. There we are. There's one. At this point, there isn't very much spring pressure on this, so I can kind of maneuver it and do whatever I need to do. So, I'm just going to kind of pull on it, see if I can get it to break free from there. There we are. This is nice and loose now. Let's go ahead and cut that other spring. Now that those shoes are out of the way, we have a clear view of our backing plate. Just give it a quick inspection, make sure it's not damaged in any way or bent. After you've done that, go ahead and scrape off any large chunks that you might see around that could cause an issue.
Now that we have the large chunks off, let's spray it down. So, now let's have a look at this area right here. This is the e-brake pivot. If you were to look at the back of the backing plate, you can see where the e-brake cable's supposed to go into. And as you were to pull on that e-brake cable, you should be able to see this pivot and it should separate the shoes if they were there. If it doesn't work, then you're, of course, going to need to free it up. Use a little bit of penetrant and go ahead and see if that'll work. Once it starts to work, go ahead and clean it down and then re-lube it with something that's going to keep the moisture away. Once we have the backing plate cleaned up and the e-brake pivot cleaned up, we're also going to make sure that we separate our star adjuster here, unless, of course, you're replacing it like we are. And then we're going to coat it with something like this, a nice little grease. That's going to help keep the moisture out of there. And now we'll start putting it together. Let's go ahead and put that adjuster so it's almost all the way closed up.
Now, we'll put this piece on there. Obviously, you want to make sure there's plenty of lubricant there. We'll set this aside for now. Any areas on your backing plate that you happen to see that look like they're raised, you want to make sure you put a little bit of lubricant on it because that's where your shoe's going to ride. Now it's going to be time to get our shoes on there. You want them facing just like this if you're on the driver's side. We've got the two little slots here facing down. If you're on the passenger side, it would be opposite facing up. With that said, go ahead and take one of your white springs and we're going to put it so this long area right here is facing towards the rear of the vehicle going into the backside of the shoe. Just like this. Now, we're going to take it just like this and we're going to go right over the pivot point that we just finished cleaning and lubing. And then if you go along to the other side, you're going to see the spring coming out along the axle. There it is.
Now, I can go ahead and start this shoe on there as well. All right. So, I've got the ear going through the shoe. The next thing that we want to do is take this lift area of the shoe right here and put it into this area right there. You can see there's a little fork. Slide it right in there. So I'm just gonna pry this. There we are. Now, I can slide it right in there. And now we'll do the same on the other side. Okay. So, now it's going to be time to go ahead and put our outward spring on there. Basically, you want to make sure it's in the same direction with the long end facing towards the back. Start it right on there. We're going to bring this over and then we'll clip it in right here. Here we go. Now it's going to be time to get our anchor point pins in there. I like to use a nice magnet like this. I'm gonna spread the shoe. If you look in the backing plate right there, you can see where there's a hole. Just go ahead and start that through. Put it through the hole in the shoe, and then I'm gonna leave the magnet right on there for now.
All right. Now it's going to be time to get the clip on there. You're going to notice that it has a flat slot right there and on the pin itself, it has a little flat edge as well. So, you want to make sure that you put these so they're lined up. There we are. Okay. So, now I'm just gonna put that down. As you could tell what the pin, I have it facing this way. And then for the slot on the clip, I have it facing in this direction. So, they're completely locked in and there's no way that it can break free. Let's go ahead and get this out of here. Move along. Let's go ahead and get our adjuster in there now. There we are. Perfect. So, now look at the adjuster and just make sure it's sitting seated inside the grooves of each shoe. You want to make sure it's in there perfectly. If it isn't, these are probably going to be spread out too far. So, now let's just go ahead and put in our pin and clip like we did on the other side. There we go. That's locked in.
Now, let's just give our shoes a couple of little taps. That's going to make sure everything's sitting as it should. Look down along here, make sure it's sitting inside the grooves where it needs to be. And, of course, make sure that neither of those Springs came off. Everything here looks great. Let's continue. Looking behind your adjuster on the backing plate, you can see a little rubber boot. Go ahead and just push that out of there. That's going to be your access point to get to your adjuster once the rotor's on. So, this is all looking great. The next thing we need to do is make sure that the hub mating surfaces clean on the axle itself and the backside of the rotor. Let's get that rotor on there. Perfect. The next thing we need to do to be able to adjust this would be to go ahead and push it on the rotor like this so it's as flush as possible, and then just try to turn it. You want to listen for the e-brake shoes to be scuffing along the inside of your rotor braking surface there. To adjust the e-brake, just come along the backside here, put your little screwdriver in there, find that wheel, and give it a couple of turns.
What I usually like to do is turn it until the point where the rotor can't turn, okay, the e-brake's basically activated. And then I'll get back in there and I'll turn it back a couple of clicks to the point that I can turn it, but I hear very slight drag on the rotor. Let's go ahead and make sure we put our rubber plug back inside the backing plate. Now it's going to be time to reinstall our caliper, take your bolts, make sure they're clean, and put a little bit of red thread locker on there. Start them both in, and then we'll snug them up. We'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these to 100 foot-pounds. Let's get the wheel back on here. And, of course, all of our lug nuts. Now, let's zip these on, and then we're going to torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued. The next thing that you're going to want to do is go ahead and pump up that brake pedal. Make sure it's nice and firm. After you've done that, try your e-brake. Put your vehicle in drive with the e-brake on, give it a little bit of acceleration and make sure the vehicle doesn't roll away. If it does, you need to continue adjusting up your e-brakes until it doesn't.
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