Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you front brake repair on this 1997 Dodge Intrepid, same as any '93 to '97. This vehicle actually doesn't need new brakes so you won't see me put new brakes on it. You'll just see me take them off and put them on. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, either your tire iron or 19mm socket with a ratchet, possibly a breaker bar and a piece of pipe, and then you'll also need a 10mm socket and ratchet and a screwdriver.
First, you want to remove your wheel while the vehicle is on the ground. These lug nuts were on way too tight and what I had to do is I used a socket. Make sure your socket is on there good because these caps can kind of get bent and chewed up and make it more difficult. Make sure your socket is on there good. I used a breaker bar and a piece of pipe for extra leverage and I actually had to do that and loosen up all five lug nuts. Said another way, if you're using hand tools loosen the lug nuts on the ground, jack and support with jack stands the car so it's up in the air and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now we can check our condition.
You can see right here, there's a little slot that you can see. That's actually the brake pad. You can see the brake rotor here. It appears this car has pretty new brakes on it so I'm actually not going to change them. I'm just going to take it apart and put it back together. You can see here too, the pad and you can see there's a little bevel to it so there's space between the pad and the rotor there. That means that pad has plenty of wear left on it. For the rotors themselves, you take the back of your fingernail just run it up and down and you should feel a little texture but you shouldn't feel any deep grooves or gauges or anything. Like I said, these brakes look like they're still brand new, not brand new, but they're in very good shape so I'll just show you how to take them apart and put them back together.
Basically, what you're going to do is just remove two 10mm bolts: one here and one down here. Fast forward here, we use a 10mm socket with a ratchet handle and these bolts should come apart pretty easy. They're only supposed to be tightened in there at about 17 to 19 foot pounds. They just hold the caliper in place. They don't really absorb any of the braking pressure.
Use a screwdriver. It doesn't have to be huge. It just kind of helps you get things started. The caliper comes off and then the pads come right out of the caliper. Use a screwdriver and pry these clips right off, and push the pad. Again, as I said, this is the outer pad. That's a wear indicator, with plenty of life left there. The inner pad pulls right out, again, and that one has plenty of life left. I'm just doing this to show you.
Here, I just want to make sure you don't put any stress on your hose and then easily enough, the rotors come right off.
Put them back on. When I put it back together, I always like to stick a lug nut. It just holds things in place. If your brakes are worn, this piston will have worked its way out further on the caliper and you'll want to push it back in. Now you can do that a couple of ways. When it's still mounted, you can actually take a large screwdriver, larger than the one I have here but I'm just showing you with this one. You take a large screwdriver, you can put it in and then pry against either the rotor or one of the pads and that will work that piston back in and again, you'll want to use a large screwdriver for that.
The other possibility is using a large C-clamp. Have your little brake pad still installed in the caliper and take the C-clamp and you'll probably be able to see it a little bit. Just watch this piston here as I tighten up the clamp and it goes back into the caliper. Now, remove your clamp. My inside pad is already in there. It just pushes into the caliper. Let's put my outside one in correctly and all you do with this one is get it into place, and push it right in.
Now you're ready to put this back in. You want to make sure you push these bolts, these little slides, make sure they are nice and free. They should slide back and forth nice and easily. Push them out, and put your caliper in place. You might need to grab onto them and pull them. Grab onto this bottom one and just pull it out, pushing that on. With these little teeth or brackets, the top of your brake pads should be nice and tight against this caliper bracket.
Start our 10mm bolts back in. Just move it around a little bit until they find their way in. Tighten these 10mm bolts to 20 foot-pounds and you might say, "Well that's not all that tight for brakes". Again, these bolts just hold everything into place. This big bracket here is what really takes the braking pressure.
Apologies here, I forgot to change the angle. You want to pull that lug nut off, put your wheel on, start all your lug nuts by hand so you don't cross-thread them and then I'm just using my impact wrench to preliminarily tighten them up. I'm not tightening them that tight, just getting the wheel seated so I can put it back down on the ground. Now with the vehicle back on the ground, I've got my torque wrench set to 100 foot-pounds and I'll tighten the lug nuts using a star pattern.
Then, very important, after you do the other side, get in your car, pump the brakes a bunch of times until your pedal's firm again and then just do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working correctly before you go out and road test it
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto, and I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front brakes on this 1998 Dodge Caravan, same as any '96 to 2000 Caravan or Voyager. Pretty easy operation. We're going to show you both just checking them and removing and replacing them. This vehicle, it ends up the brakes are in fine shape, so we just take them apart and put them back together to show you.
Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a lug wrench or a 19-mm socket with a breaker bar or a ratchet and a pipe, you'll need probably some extra leverage to get those lug nuts off, a 10-mm socket or a wrench, a large flat-blade screwdriver, a large C-clamp, and a torque wrench. First, you want to start out, raise and support the vehicle and then remove the hubcap and then either use a large ratchet and 19-mm socket or an impact wrench and remove your lug nuts and the wheel. Okay, brakes are pretty easy to check and to service. Check the condition of your rotors. These rotors actually look like they're in pretty good shape. Take the back of your fingernail, run along the rotor surface. If you feel any deep grooves, then you need to replace your rotors. These feel good. These brake pads, see how you can see the edge here? Doesn't even touch the rotor surface. That's kind of a wear indicator. These pads have plenty of life left on them, but we'll show you how to take off the pads and the rotors. First thing you need to do is remove 2 bolts, 1 here and 1 here using your 10-mm. They should come off with a small ratchet pretty easily. We'll speed it up here as I remove those bolts. To get the rotor off, take a screwdriver, put it right in here, pry it out a little bit, and that kind of upsets the piston in a little bit, and let's see here.
You should be able to pull your caliper right off. Okay, your pads. You can see this outer one has a clip on it. Just kind of press up, use your screwdriver to help you push it up and out. You can see, like I said, plenty of life left in these brakes. Just showing you how to do this. Your inner pad, you can just squeeze right out and it comes out, and put the inner pad back in for now. Put this up and out of the way. You just want to be careful that you don't want to put too much ... Put that like that and make sure you don't put too much stress on this hose. Your rotor comes right off if you need to replace it. Like I said, looks good. Put that back on. If you're putting new pads on, you'll need to reset your piston inside your caliper, and you do that with a large C-clamp. Set the clamp so one end is on the end of the caliper there. The other end is pressing on your brake pad, and as you slowly turn that, you can see it forces the piston back in. Okay.
Once that's reset, you can remove the clamp. A lot of times, I like to put a lug nut on here. Holds both ends in place. Your outer pad just goes right in. Just kind of clip it right into place. Before you go to put this back on, you want to make sure that these slides slide back and forth nicely, and to put it together, you want to have them pushed all the way down, push your pad down, and then, you're going to put this front end first. Get this right underneath, pull out on your slide on the top, pull out on your slide on the bottom. Make sure everything goes together nicely. Now use our bolts. Kind of put them in. Move it around a little bit until they start in. Once you have them tight, you want to torque them with a torque wrench, probably between 17 and 19 foot-pounds. Speeding up here a little bit, I'll remove that lug nut. I put the wheel and tire back on. Thread the lug nuts on by hand first, then kind of tighten them preliminarily with my torque wrench. Obviously, I'm showing you one side here. If you do a brake job, you want to do both sides. With the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 90 to 100 foot-pounds and use a star pattern. Now, put the wheel cover back on. Make sure you line up the valve stem cutout with the valve stem. After you work on the brakes, make sure you pump your brakes a bunch of times to help reset the piston, and then, do a stop from 10 and 5 miles an hour before you road-test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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