Replaces
Recommended for your 2008 Chrysler 300
Frequently bought together
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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. Now, ours is an M and we're going to be showing you how to remove and replace headlights on a C model, which is the bumper and headlights that this vehicle has been swapped with. However, the procedure for both the C and the M are very similar, if not the same.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need headlights for your C or M 300, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: New headlights from 1AAuto.com; trim tools from 1AAuto.com; 8-10mm sockets, ratchet and extension.
Remove the three push pin connectors on the inside of each wheel well at the bumper. We've removed the wheel to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this can definitely be done with the wheel still attached to the vehicle. We're going to use our trim tool from 1A Auto and pry up the center portion of the tab, then get behind the base of it and pop it out. Now our vehicle has been modified. This isn't the bumper that belongs on it, and it was also lowered substantially, so our wheel wells are in pretty rough shape. We have a lot of pins missing along with our belly pan.
Using a 10mm socket ratchet and extension, remove the 10mm bolts securing the corner of the bumper to the fender. Normally there would be an air dam or belly pan located here at the bottom of the bumper reaching back under the motor, however, our vehicle was lowered substantially, and this pan has either been ripped off or removed. The fasteners go along the front of the bumper, and then there are a couple of – it looks like the used to be 10mm that secure it to the sub-frames as well as some of those push pin type connectors we showed you earlier in the wheel wells.
Now, this isn't the original bumper for this vehicle. No one hooked up the side markers when it was installed, so you'll want to disconnect those. There will be this little connector over here under your side marker. You'll also want to disconnect the connector on your fog lights if your vehicle is equipped. Simply lift up on these two tabs, and then pull back.
Using a trim tool, we'll remove the same four push pin style connectors that we found in our wheel well, only these go along the top of the bumper. If you're performing this procedure on a Magnum which is the station wagon, there will be six of these where Chargers have eight. You can now pull the bumper straight out and off of the vehicle.
You can now remove the three bolts securing the headlight. These can be removed with either an 8mm or 5/16 socket or looks like that's a T-25 TORX on the inside there. However, I prefer to go with the 8mm socket, ratchet and extension. Pull the headlight forward to remove it from this alignment pin. You can now access the electrical connectors for it. Now, on a factory set of headlights it should just be this one here. However, this vehicle has some after-market running lights and accent lights in it that were wired in as accessories, you shouldn't have to worry about on your OE headlights. Disconnect the connector, as well as the one on the outer headlight bulb. There's also one more connection here, which would go to the inner headlight on a stock headlight. Again, ours is aftermarket so there are a few aesthetic differences here. You can now remove your headlight from the vehicle.
Here we have our old headlight assembly that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. Now, as you can see, there are some major aesthetic differences here. The reason for that being that our new replacement part from 1AAuto is an OE style replacement headlight, whereas the one we removed from our vehicle is an aftermarket headlight that has some LED trim rings and DRL strips at the bottom.
This headlight you can see the lens is all scratched up and fogged, it's not very bright and clear. The chrome isn't very shiny. But you take a look at the new part we have from 1A, crystal clear lens, the chrome is perfectly shiny, it's really going to reflect the light coming out of this headlight and help you see brighter and better, more clearly at night. The nice clear lens will help with that as well.
These are an OE style projector headlight on the outer beam here. You can see that it's much bigger and has a much nicer curve to it than the one in our aftermarket headlight here. That's going to make for a better, brighter lighting output and pattern. We have our turn signal and marker light in the actual headlight assembly on this headlight which is going to be good because that's the OE spec for that.
This headlight lacks that feature and lacks amber colored bulbs, which could be an issue for driving on the road, depending on what state you live in, because this OE equipment has an amber turn signal where this doesn't have anything. If it does, it's a white bulb in this DRL strip, it's not OE spec and it's not going to be okay to put down the road. On the back of the headlight, we have all this extra wiring. You can see it's all torn up and broken. We don't have the same headlamp connections. But this one is going to be the OE style, turn signal connector here, which is over in this region on that headlight. We have our inner and outer beams, both right where they should be from the factory. Our harness is going to plug in perfectly and work just like it should. So, if you're looking to upgrade and look and function of your headlights, or replace a faded, fogged lens and a poor output headlight, this new part from 1AAuto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
We have the same connectors for inner and outer headlights, so make sure you remember which is which. Our outer one is gray, our new one is here which we've replaced, but the original one was a grayish white as well. We have a black one that's going to go on the inside. Don't forget your marker connector here. This one has a little red mark tab on it, make sure you engage that and that it's on there nice and secure.
Now we'll line up the headlight. You have a little alignment tab here and one on the other side that you'll want to make sure you set in before using your 8mm socket, ratchet and extension to install all three of your 8mm bolts. Make sure you get all of those three of those started before you tighten any of them down. That way they all line up nicely, you don't have to go backwards to line anything up.
Set your bumper back on. Watch out for the headlights and the fenders. Align the top holes where these plastic pins came out, and we're just going to install them for now. Don't push the actual tab down. We're just doing this to keep it in place while we line up our sides.
On either side of your bumper you'll notice you have these slotted tabs and then this opening for your bolt. These slots are going to line up to those little rounded tabs you can see on the bottom of your fender, so slide them in. Snap them on. Once you have both of the corners of your bumper set into place, go ahead and push down the middle of your plastic retaining pins to secure the top of the bumper. Re-install your 10mm bolt in the top corner of each fender. Tighten that down with your 10mm socket and ratchet.
Now there is a little bit of give to these, so if you're not happy with where the corner of your bumper's lined up, you can push it into place and hold it there while you finish tightening your bolt. Install the plastic pins in your fender liner. You should have three on each side. We're missing some, so I'm going to put two on each. Once your retainers are locked in, repeat these steps on the opposite side. Reconnect the fog light connectors on both sides, and reconnect with the side markers.
Again, ours aren't actually connected to anything. We're going to have to fix that later, but yours should just plug right back in, and you’ll have to close that red safety tab. After that, you'll re-install the belly pan or air dam which is missing from our vehicle. Yours should have these screws all the way along the front as well as four in the sub frame, and the three plastic pins in each wheel well.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the hood latch release cable. Our new one comes with a handle already on one end.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles and if you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: New cable from 1AAuto.com; trim tools from 1AAuto.com; 8-10mm sockets, ratchet and extension, small flat blade screwdriver
Remove the three push pin connectors on the inside of each wheel well at the bumper. We've removed the wheel to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this can definitely be done with the wheel still attached to the vehicle. We're going to use our trim tool from 1A Auto and pry up the center portion of the tab, then get behind the base of it and pop it out. Now our vehicle has been modified. This isn't the bumper that belongs on it, and it was also lowered substantially, so our wheel wells are in pretty rough shape. We have a lot of pins missing along with our belly pan.
Using a 10mm socket ratchet and extension, remove the 10mm bolts securing the corner of the bumper to the fender. Normally there would be an air dam or belly pan located here at the bottom of the bumper reaching back under the motor, however, our vehicle was lowered substantially, and this pan has either been ripped off or removed. The fasteners go along the front of the bumper, and then there are a couple of – it looks like the used to be 10mm that secure it to the sub-frames as well as some of those push pin type connectors we showed you earlier in the wheel wells.
Now, this isn't the original bumper for this vehicle. No one hooked up the side markers when it was installed, so you'll want to disconnect those. There will be this little connector over here under your side marker. You'll also want to disconnect the connector on your fog lights if your vehicle is equipped. Simply lift up on these two tabs, and then pull back.
Using a trim tool, we'll remove the same four push pin style connectors that we found in our wheel well, only these go along the top of the bumper. If you're performing this procedure on a Magnum which is the station wagon, there will be six of these where Chargers have eight. You can now pull the bumper straight out and off of the vehicle.
Remove the three 8mm screws securing the headlight with an 8mm socket, ratchet and extension. We're removing the driver's side headlight to gain access to the hood release cable. Ours is actually not quite routed correctly so we don't have to remove the headlight in order to remove the cable but when installing the new one, to follow the correct path, the headlight will have to be out of the way. Once your screws are removed, pull the headlight forward and remove the headlight connectors. Lift the red lock tab and remove the turn signal connector as well. Now place your headlight off to the side.
Pop off the covers over the hood latch. Using a 13mm socket and ratchet, remove the two 13mm bolts securing the hood latch to the radiator support. Slide the latch back and you can see the cable end behind the spring there. Simply move that down and out of the latch; be a little tricky, I'm using a flat blade screwdriver to help push it out of the opening. We'll then push down on these two tabs, pull the cable out of the latch. You may have to push down one side at a time and pull it through. Fish the cable out of the radiator support, out from under the headlight and pay close attention to where all this is going. There's a retainer behind the power steering and coolant reservoir that you should be able to just pop open with a flat blade screwdriver without removing any of those reservoirs. Another one up on the fender here. We've got our hood off so these will be out of your way anyway.
Pry up and release the tabs on the cowl cover. You may need a trim tool to make this easier. Lift up on that cover slightly. You'll see another latch there. Release the cable from that clip as well. Now it may be a little difficult to see, but there's a carpet cover underneath the dash so you have one pin right next to your OBD connector and another one just above the E-brake pedal. You'll have to remove these with a trim removal tool. Once the pins are out, carefully remove this cover. Now on the actual hood release handle itself, there are two 8mm screws which you can see there. We'll remove these with an 8mm socket and ratchet. Remove the hood release latch and pull your cable through.
Our boot is refusing to come out of the firewall, so we're going to have to push it through form the other side. Remove the access panel and the cowl. Our boot is at the end of the cable; just want to compress the ends, push them through the firewall. Once the boot is pushed through, feed your cable through the rest of the way and remove the cable and latch assembly from your vehicle.
Here we have our old hood release, latch and cable assembly, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. Now these cables are the same length and size, have the same rubber boot to insulate them at the firewall and the same release handle on the end. What can happen with these cables is the ends can fray and break or the cable itself can chafe away and water, moisture and debris can get in, rusting and seizing the cable so you can no longer release the latch; or they can break internally so when you pull this end it's really light and easy to pull and it's not releasing the hood on the other side.
If your cable is broken, damaged or difficult to pull, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, get your hood opening safely and smoothly again, and fix you up right.
Feed the cable back through the opening. Be sure to follow the original routing path of the cable. We're not going to lock it in to any of its retainers just yet. Pull it through up until the rubber boot hits on the firewall which is right about there. I'm actually grabbing the boot and just pulling that through until it sticks. Run it down behind the reservoirs, under the radiator support, over the horn, back to the latch location, and walk it in to that retainer there. It ran under here as well. Now that we know our cable is where it needs to be and the right length, we can go through and lock it back into all its retaining clips.
Lock the anchor on the end of the cable back into the latch mechanism, pull the slack on the cable, slide the mechanism back and rehook it. Line it back up and reinstall your two 13mm bolts. We can see the clean marks where the washer used to sit on the latch and since this is the same latch mechanism we removed, we'll want to line those washers up, make sure that everything is tightened back down in the same place. Then just walk along the cable, make sure that everything's routed nicely, not touching anywhere it shouldn't.
Lock the red clip in. Black connector goes on the inner headlight, gray connector goes on the outer headlight. Carefully reinstall it. Line up the alignment pins and reinstall your three 8mm screws. We'll then tighten them down with our socket, ratchet and extension. Slide this locking tab together on the sight cover for your radiator support. Slide it under your hood release here. Line up the tabs, there are two on each side, and simply snap them back into place. Remember to reinstall the access panel and any clips you removed to gain access under the cowl. Line up your hood latch release and snap it into the holes. Once it's lined up, you can start both of your 8mm screws by hand and then tighten them down with your 8mm socket and ratchet.
Reinstall the carpeting. You've got to push it all the way back and then tuck the rolled corner up behind the dash. Make sure that you still have access to the hood release handle as well as the OBD connector. Reinstall the two snaps. Check for proper operation of the latch and cable.
Set your bumper back on. Watch out for the headlights and the fenders. Align the top holes where these plastic pins came out, and we're just going to install them for now. Don't push the actual tab down. We're just doing this to keep it in place while we line up our sides.
On either side of your bumper you'll notice you have these slotted tabs and then this opening for your bolt. These slots are going to line up to those little rounded tabs you can see on the bottom of your fender, so slide them in. Snap them on. Once you have both of the corners of your bumper set into place, go ahead and push down the middle of your plastic retaining pins to secure the top of the bumper. Re-install your 10mm bolt in the top corner of each fender. Tighten that down with your 10mm socket and ratchet.
Now there is a little bit of give to these, so if you're not happy with where the corner of your bumper's lined up, you can push it into place and hold it there while you finish tightening your bolt. Install the plastic pins in your fender liner. You should have three on each side. We're missing some, so I'm going to put two on each. Once your retainers are locked in, repeat these steps on the opposite side. Reconnect the fog light connectors on both sides, and reconnect with the side markers.
Again, ours aren't actually connected to anything. We're going to have to fix that later, but yours should just plug right back in, and you’ll have to close that red safety tab. After that, you'll re-install the belly pan or air dam which is missing from our vehicle. Yours should have these screws all the way along the front as well as four in the sub frame, and the three plastic pins in each wheel well.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
BDA49323
