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Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2008 Chevy Equinox 3.4-liter V6 all-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front brake pads and rotors. We recommend that these always be done together, as well as any pair. So, you do your pads and rotors on both your front left and front right wheel.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you want these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 14-19mm socket, ratchet, socket extensions, breaker bar, T-30 Torx bit, bungee cord, mechanic wire, hammer, wire brush, brake grease, brake cleaner, flat blade screwdriver, groove jaw pliers, torque wrench
Using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn with the weight of the vehicle on the tire. This will make it easier to remove them once we raise and support the vehicle. Raise and support your vehicle.
We're doing this on a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on. However, this job could easily be done in your garage or driveway using a jack and jack stands. Remove the rest of your lug nuts by hand. Remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle. Sometimes they get a little stuck on there, because it's an aluminum wheel on a steel hub. You have to wiggle them a little bit to break them free.
Using the T30 Torx bit and a ratchet, loosen up that bolt. Thought I might've needed that pry bar to counter support it, so it wouldn't turn. However, this one came out nice and easy. Remove the two 14mm caliper bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom, with a 14mm socket and ratchet. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove the caliper. Secure it up and out of the way with a bungee cord, zip ties, or mechanics wire. Remove the pads from the slides. You can use a flat blade screwdriver if you need a little more leverage here.
These are coming out pretty easy. Using an 18mm socket and breaker bar, loosen the caliper bracket bolts. Again, you're going to want to get both of these loose before you remove either one fully. Once you've cracked them loose, you should be able to remove them the rest of the way with a socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper bracket and place off to the side.
Remove the rotor. Ours is frozen on there pretty good. We're not reusing our rotors. We can hit it just about anywhere to make sure it pops off the hub. However, if you plan to reuse yours, hitting it in between the studs can get it off without damaging anything. Your rotors are really stuck on, you're just going to have to knock them off and replace them.
Here we have our old brake pads and rotors that we removed from our vehicle, and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same size rotor. They're also vented. They have the same 5-bolt lug pattern, same centerbore. The same bolt location for your rotor screw. Same brake pads. You can see why it was time to change these out. That's almost completely worn away. These probably had a couple thousand miles left on them. It's a lot better to change your brakes just before they need it, rather than after the fact, to make sure that your vehicle is always operating and stopping safely.
Each side also comes with one of these brake squealers. Which is designed to start dragging against the rotor and making some noise to give you an audible alert that it's almost time to do your brakes. You can see we have some rust and corrosion build up. These marks are from removing it with a hammer. They were pretty well frozen on there. We have a nice, smooth, even surface on our new rotor. If your old brakes are squealing, not stopping the way they should be, grinding, or are creating a pulsating brake pedal from a warped rotor. These new parts from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment. We fix you up right.
Using a steel wire brush or some Emory cloth sandpaper, or something like that, to remove the rust build up on the face of your hub. Clean that, as well as the centerbore, to make sure that there's no rust build up that'll make our rotors sit unevenly or freeze on prematurely. Once you've removed the bulk of the rust, we're going to apply a thin coat of brake grease to the face of the hub, as well as around the centerbore of the hub. This will make sure that if we ever need to remove our rotor, should it be an axle, a wheel bearing, the spindle, or something else, that we need to take our hub off, that it comes of easily. We don't have to hit it with a hammer, like you saw earlier. Making sure that it's removable and reusable down the road. As well as, making future brake jobs easier.
Install the rotor onto the hub backwards. Spray it down with some brake cleaner. This removes the coating they use to keep these from rusting in storage. Turn it around. Make sure you line up that beveled hole. Put the threads in the hub for your rotor screw. Spray down this side as well. Lay the rotor flat on the hub. Reinstall your T30 Torx screw.
If your brake clips, or shims here, have some heavy corrosion or are cracked or broken in any way you'll need to replace them. Ours looks okay. We'll just pop them off. Go nice and easy to try not to bend them. It may help to use a flat blade screwdriver just to help pop that up, especially in the middle. We'll use this small wire brush to clean all the rust and corrosion out of the places that that shim rides on. Once that's cleaned up, we'll clean up the shim itself. We'll grease the contact surface. Again, just a thin coat of brake grease here. Reinstall the clip. Grease the clip itself. Remove the slide from its rubber boot by holding down the boot. Pulling the slide out, if there's old grease that looks bad on there, wipe that off with a paper towel. Ours is okay. We'll put a little thicker coat of grease on there.
Reinstall it into the slide. Repeat all these steps on the opposite side of the caliper carrier. Reinstall the caliper bracket with your 18mm bolts. Tighten the bolts down with your 18mm socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 137 foot-pounds. Install your brake pad. I'm placing the rear one with the squealer at the top. That's how it came off of the vehicle. Sometimes they will interfere with the caliper if you place them in certain ways. I like to just put them back however they came off. We'll apply a thin coat of grease to the back. Do the same thing with the pad on the front. Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, slowly compress each caliper piston. If you go too fast you'll start pushing the other one out. Make sure both are fully seated.
We'll remove our bungee cord, mechanics wire, zip tie, or whatever it is you used to secure your caliper. Place it back on to the caliper bracket and pads. Reinstall the two 14mm brake caliper bolts. These don't get a ton of torque. I'm just going to bring them down as far as I can by hand, go straight to the torque wrench. However, you can use a socket and ratchet if you're having a harder time. Torque the caliper bolts to 20 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. Lower your vehicle until the weight is back on the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross-pattern. Match the brakes on the other side using this same procedure. You're good to go.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front breaks on this 2006 Malibu. Procedures are the same for a few other GM Vehicles as well, the Malibu's, G5, Cobalt, HHR, Solstice and Saturn Sky as well as others. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 14, 15, and 19mm sockets and that could vary by car. Ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage, a flat blade screw driver, a large C-clamp, wire brush and a torque wrench. Start out by using a 19mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts on the wheel. Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. Now, we want to inspect the condition of the breaks. The rotors are a little crusty. As far as rust, that's not always a bad thing. You want to just take your finger and run up and down the surface of the rotor. I can feel some pretty big ridges here on the edges which indicates that this may be worn down. Also, our pads, it's hard to see but if we look in here, there's very little pad life left. You can actually tell here better. This is the metal or the pad. It's almost right up against the rotor, so this needs new front brakes. First thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts.
Now, this should come off, but it's pretty easy on the ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screw driver and try out with this hold and that loosens up the caliper and the caliper comes right off, put it right there for an hour and you can just try out your pads. As you can see, here's my pad, they actually is a little wear indicator. It says there's a little bit of life left, but I'd feel better replacing these. Here's my inner pad as well. Now, we need to remove this caliper bracket. We'll remove two 15mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, little extra leverage and it should be apart pretty easily. We'll pop one get it started. And I'm just going to speed it up again here as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them, probably three or four turns, they actually came out by hand. Take the rotor, pull it right off. New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on, take a lug nut. Kind of hold it into place here. We'll cut this off. Now, I have to reset. This piston is working its way out of the caliper, so I'm just going to take my old pad like that and take a big C-clamp and make sure we're not pressing anything lighter on the back there. I'm taking up the C-clamp, the piston goes back in to the caliper. This rubber seal kind of pops out and you just work it right back in there with your fingers. Before we put this caliper bracket, two things, I want to make sure these are sliding in and out nice and freely. Then you also want to take a wire brush and just clean out these stainless steel slide. Now, take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disk. Put your bolt in, it will find its way. This bolt, you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds.
New pads from 1A Auto, quite a bit thicker than what we took off there and the rear one has this rear tab. You want to make sure that's on the upside, so put that one in the back. That little tab is what makes that constant squeaking noise as your breaks wear down when they get low. Put this one up front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here. Bring your caliper down right on top. Two bolts. These two bolts, you want to take into 35 foot pounds. We have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand and then I'm just using my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminary. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern. Now, put your wheel cover back on. There is a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not the least, before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the breaks a bunch of times to get the pedal to feel nice and firm. You have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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