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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1A Auto.com.
In this video, I'm going to show you how to do a front brake job on this 2003 GMC Sonoma. This truck has perfectly good brakes, so you don't see me replacing them, but I do just take them apart and put them back together so you can understand how to get the new parts from 1A Auto and install them correctly. Brake job on this truck is the same as any GMC, the Sonoma S15 pickup or the Jimmy as well as the Chevy S10 pickup and blazer. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 18 mm and 19 mm sockets, ratchet handle, and a pipe or breakup bar. You'll need those because you'll probably need some extra leverage on some of those bolts. An 18 mm wrench with an additional wrench and you'll see how I use that, a large C-clamp, and a new pattern rotary kit available from 1AAuto.com, as well as a large flat blade screw driver.
Start by raising and removing the wheel entire. If you don't have access to impact tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the tire on the ground. Then raise it and support it with the jack stand and they can remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel entire. With the wheel off, you can check the condition of your brakes. The rotor, you want to just check the service. Run your back of your fingernail up along it. If you don't feel any deep grooves, that's what you want. You can see that there's still a good lip on this rotor, so we know the rotor is still plenty wide enough. You can look here. If you look back in here, you can see there's the pad and you can see there's plenty of life left in the pad, so these brakes are in good shape, but I'm going to show you how to take them apart and put them back together. Next thing you want to do is take the cap off, which you remove, these two bolts here. Before you remove those bolts, what you can do is loosen the caliper up from the pads and rotor, take a large screw driver and put it right into this hole and pry out slowly and that forces the pistons back into the caliper. These bolts are 18 mm.
I'll speed it up. You can see it takes some force to get them going, but it shouldn't take too much. They shouldn't be on there too tight. I'm just using the regular size ratchet and removing those. Now the caliper comes right on off and then put it right up here. Here are your pads. They should just kind of pull right out. Screwdriver, pry this back one out. You can see right here this is kind of a wear indicator. Plenty of life left in that pad. The pad comes out. If you need to remove and replace your rotor, you'll need to remove this caliper bracket, which is two more bolts, one there and then one up there. These bolts are 19 mm as well. I'm going to use my ratchet and put a piece of pipe on here. It's going to help me get some more leverage. This one's so close to the control arm, you'll have to use a wrench, so I put my 18 mm wrench on there, put another wrench on here like that, gives me more leverage. That should loosen up. Speed it up here again. After I get them loose, I remove those two bolts the rest of the way. I take the bracket off. I lift that bracket off and the rotor comes right off and again this one is in good shape so we can put it back on. Put this back and you put it between the rotor and your steering knuckle. Put the bolt back in at that top one, the bottom one in, start it up.
Again speed it up here as I just thread those bolts in and get them preliminarily tightened up. Since you can't get a conventional torque wrench on there, what I do is get it about as tight as you can with your first wrench and hook your second wrench on here and just probably pull it another 16th or a turn or so. The bottom one, we want to tighten it to 100-ft pounds. You want to reset the pistons in your caliper. What I've done is I've put my old pad back in there on the inside and then I have a C-clamp. I'll tighten up this C-clamp and that will force the pistons back into the caliper. Then I can remove the C-clamp. Remove the pad and you can see my pistons here are back down into the caliper. I'm going to put my pads back in. They have these little metal tabs on them that have to be there. That's how they slide back and forth in the cast iron. Front ones, same thing. You can see pads are in. You want to make sure the pads can move back and forth nice and freely.
Now let's take a caliper and you want to push the boots in and put it down that way. Then pull this boot down here and put down in place. Make sure these bolts are nice and clean. A little light coating of grease on them. They go right in. Speed it up here as we just thread those bolts in. Then you want to torque these to about 55-ft pounds. Speed it up against as we mount that wheel entire. Then you thread the lug nuts on by hand first, make sure you don't cross thread them. Then we'll use an impact wrench, just tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle down on the ground and torque them to 100 foot pounds, using a star pattern as you're tightening them. Then most importantly, before you road test your car, make sure you pump your brakes a bunch. That will reset the pistons into the right spot. You can test stop at 5-10 miles an hour, and then go out on the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. we're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. This video is part two of a two part series. We will pick it up and replay a couple of scenes from the first video. We are showing you how to do a brake job, a front brake job, on this 2001 S-10, and this is a two-wheel drive truck. Here we'll go through just a quick review of the tools that you're going to need.
Now I'm going to take my seal and drop it on like that. You can use a piece of wood, or something like that. I'm just using a larger block of metal, a larger bearing installer. Just make sure that that's nice and evenly installed. Take our rotor, keep it on the plastic, flip it over. We're just going to take some grease and, just like on the back side, just kind of pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the rings itself, but not a lot. Take some paper towels, wipe off your spindle here. You want to check for any - You can just run your finger on here with a little grease on it. I can see some markings here, but there's no real wear on the spindle. The two surfaces, one here where the inner bearing is, and here where the outer bearing is, there's no real wear on the spindle, so the bearings weren't spinning good. Take control with the grease on the outer bearing. Pack it into that crevice on the back.
Put our rotor in place. Notice I'm just trying not to touch the rotor a lot with my greasy fingers. We've got our bearing in place. Clean the ugly grease off of our washer. Put the washer on. Put our bolt on. We're putting it on there. We got to take our ratchet and we're going to pull it a little bit tight, and we're going to spin the rotor around a little bit. We're going to loosen this up and we're going to pull it tight again. Just barely, probably like two or three foot pounds, not a lot. Next, we'll put our nut back on. We're going to pull it kind of tight. We're going to just rotate the rotor a little bit that seats the bearings, and then you're going to loosen this. Then we're going to bring it so it's just starting to seat, and you pull it just a little bit, probably two or three foot pounds. Put this on through and then grab the end, bend it over, and it's not going to come off.
We're going to put our dust cap back on and make sure there's no harmful dust in it. Now use mineral spirits or break parts cleaner, make sure you don't have any grease on the rotor surface. Also do the inside. Now we're going to take our calipers and we're going to push these sleeves out. Wire brush them, make sure there's no deep grooves, or any grooves on them really. All we need to do is push this piston back in. As you can see, I've got a big C-clamp on there, using my old brake pad and push on the piston. As I tighten the C-clamp, the piston goes back into the caliper. This should do just - This will require a little bit of pressure, but it should do it pretty easily. That's the way you know that the caliper is still in good shape. Here's my inner pad, comes with a little clip. Install that into the hole, and then pull it down and on, like that. Make sure you don't get any grease or anything on the pad. Install your pad into the caliper. We've got some pretty good scale on these, so I'm just using a screwdriver, scraping it off first. Then I'll go back with the wire brush. Your outer pad. There's a wear tab on this inner pad. You want to make sure that wear tab goes to the bottom. Put the caliper right down on, it's going to grab hold of the pads.
We've got our caliper bolts all cleaned up. Use some medium grit sandpaper if you need to. You just want to make sure you get all the stuff off them. Then put a nice fine coating of anti-seize on here. You could also use some grease or something. We're also going to put it on these collars here. These should go in. I'm just going to fast-forward here as I put those bolts in with my 3/8 Allen wrench. Then I use my other larger combination wrench for some extra torque when I'm tightening them. These bolts should be tightened between 45 and 50 foot pounds. I use the wrench. Put it on the Allen wrench for some leverage and pull it pretty tight, and then straighten the wheels out so I can put the tires on. Keeping the speed going, I've installed the wheel and tire back on, put the lug nuts on by hand first, and then I'll use my impact wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily.
I'll torque these to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Speed up as I finish torqueing. When I say use a star pattern, I just trace the bolts in a pattern like a star. Basically, like you would draw a star, and then put the center cap on, and install the plastic lug covers. Use your socket just to tighten the lug covers up until they click. Very important, pump your brakes and then do a trial stop from 5 miles an hour before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us Toll Free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet, and in person.
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