Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake calipers are made from premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. All TRQ calipers are new, so there will never be a core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ brake calipers include upgraded seals, washers, abutment kits and brackets where applicable to ensure a complete repair. TRQ recommends replacing your calipers in pairs with new brake pads and brake rotors to ensure components wear evenly and avoid multiple repairs of the same system. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Now, I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And take those bolts out. Just like that, and slide the caliper off. If you have to, you can take a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and just pry a little bit between the rotor, and then that'll just push the pads in, the piston in a little bit. And take a break caliper hanger, and just hang the brake caliper somewhere. Now we'll take the brake pads off.
Just so the rotor doesn't come off, I'm just gonna take a lug nut and just put it on backwards, just to secure the rotor on there. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. And slide the bracket off. Take the new caliper bracket, just take a little thin coat of brake caliper grease just on that area right there and over here. And take these brake caliper slides, line these up, push those down and another thin coat of grease right there and right there. Do the same for the other side. Take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor. You can take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on the bolts and get those started. And torque those bolts to 129 foot-pounds.
Now we can take the brake pads. Now, the warning indicators on the outboard pad has two indicators and the one on the inboard pad only has one. And for the passenger side, you wanna make sure that indicator goes down and same with the driver's side. You want that indicator on the bottom. Now, take the brake caliper itself and line that up. And you wanna make sure that the brake caliper has the bleeder at the top. If you have the bleeder at the bottom, then you're on the wrong side. And caliper goes on the opposite side. And take the caliper guide pins or bolts. Get those started. You can put a little brake grease on these pins as well.
And this happens to be a different fastener than what we use to remove it, it's a T55. And then torque these two bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Before we transfer the brake hose over, just take this banjo bolt out and there's a couple of washes on here, and we're gonna switch these washers over. And then also the bleeder, just take this little cap off, and loosen this up. Use a 10-millimeter wrench. Now, double-check your brake hose. Make sure there's no cracking in the brake hose itself. And this one looks pretty good. It's always a good idea to replace the brake hose when you're replacing a caliper, but sometimes you don't have a choice. And then I'm gonna use an 11-millimeter socket and take this banjo bolt out.
And make sure your brake reservoir actually has a good amount of brake fluid in it because you're gonna lose some. So take the old banjo bolt off and take the seals off. Now it looks good. And then take the new banjo bolt with one of the washers on one side and put the other washer on the opposite side of the brake line, or brake hose, and get that started into the caliper. And it goes on this way. There is this little square at the bottom, has to line up properly with the brake hose going up. And tighten this down. And torque this bolt to 30 foot-pounds.
Now, you can let this gravity bleed a little bit. Most of the brake fluid's gonna come through the system, push all the air out of the caliper and then you can snug this leader up. At this point, you can bleed the brakes normally. So when you bleed the brakes, you're gonna want someone else to pump the pedal for you as you open and close the bleeder. So if you have, start by having them pump the pedal until it gets hard because it's gonna be a big air gap in between the brake caliper piston and the brake pad itself. And then have them hold it. All right, go ahead, hold it. As they're holding the breakdown, open the bleeder. Some of the air just shot out and then close it up. All right, pump it again. Have them pump it three times and then hold it. And then open the bleeder screw, slowly. Some more air came out.
All right, tighten that up again. All right, go ahead, pump it. All right. And then open it up again. And that looked nice and clean, no air. So that should be good. Snug that up. Go ahead. Pump it. All right. If it feels good, you're all set. You can do the same with the other ones. Put that cap back on and you can clean up some of that brake fluid. You could use some soapy water or some brake parts cleaner. Right now I can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back on. Lug nuts on. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check. And check the brake fluid level after you're done and adjust accordingly. You wanna make sure you always maintain fluid in the reservoir while you're doing the procedure.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends. One of the first things we have to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you have your wheels off the ground in the rear, we're going to go ahead and remove all six of these lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel's off, we have a clear view of the brake hose right here. If you're doing just one caliper, we're going to take these hose pinchers right here and pinch this hose. If you're doing both calipers, you can go ahead and pinch that center flex hose. I'll go right here. I'm gonna come up from the top because it's a little easier to get to. Snug that up.
Now we're gonna remove this banjo bolt right here. Before you do that, try to clean off any of this dirt that might be around. I'm gonna use my 12-millimeter to remove that. Just be careful because brake fluid is going to come out. When brake fluid comes out, you need to have a nice collection bucket, and you need to make sure you have hand protection and eye protection. Here we go. Looks like there's minimal brake fluid but there is some. We've got our little banjo bolt on our gasket here. We'll set that aside. We are not going to reuse it. That's not reusable.
Go ahead and get your banjo bolt right out of the line. Take a peek at that banjo bolt. Make sure that it has the other gasket on there. Remove that gasket, recycle that as well. Take a look at your flex hose here. You want to make sure that you have a good connection point on there. Any area that the gasket's gonna ride needs to be free and clear. If it's dirty, clean it up. Look at the other side and do the same. The next thing I like to do is just kind of plug this hole up with something. If you have something plastic, or even if you want to try to put the banjo bolt in there, just to kind of prevent any brake fluid from shooting out at you, especially in your face. Cover that up.
Now we're going to remove these bolts right here. These are the mounting bolts and they're 18-millimeter. They'll hold the bracket to the actual differential itself. There's one. Hold that caliper. Remove your caliper. One of the first things that you need to do is double-check to make sure that your caliper matches up with the original. You want to double-check on the backside that the bleeder screw is on the corresponding side of the caliper. And aside from that, it should pretty much be the same, whether it's from one side to the other. Once you're sure you have the right caliper, we'll continue on by removing these two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket.
Take the caliper off the bracket, set it aside. With the caliper bracket over on the bench, I just want to show you areas that you're going to want to clean up. You want to clean up this area right along here and right there, the same right here. If you were to take your tin and you were to put it over it, any area that touches...If you were to take your tin and put it right over the bracket, you'll be able to see exactly where you need to clean up. Any areas that the bracket is going to touch up against this tin need to be nice and smooth, and they also need to be lubricated.
Just take your little brush, clean up in between there, clean up all this right here. If there's any really tough areas that don't seem like they want to break free but they're raised up, use a nice screwdriver or whatever you might have and just kind of kit up any of that crud or anything like that that might be on there. Now, once you've cleaned all the mounting areas for where your tins are going to go for your brake pads, you're going to come right here to the sliders. Grab that, pull it right out. Take your rag, clean it up. Inspect the slider, make sure it's in good condition.
If it looks like it's pitted or it's going to cause restriction going in and out, you either need to clean it up better with a wire wheel or replace it. If you were to look inside here, you're going to need that to be nice and clean as well. You can do something as simple as maybe using a bore brush, something like that inside there. Of course, you don't want to damage the boot though. So you'd want to be very careful. Get out as much of the crud as you can inside there, make it as clean as possible. Maybe even take a nice rag, twist it, put it right inside there, and get out as much as possible.
I'm going to use some nice silicone here. This is Moly grease. It's great for calipers. You want to make sure you get right up along this area right there. If you can see where that lip is, where my finger is, get some grease all up on there. It's going to be super important because that's going to help keep moisture out right along this seal. Slide that in there. Give it a nice twist. Move along. Those sliders are in there. Let's go ahead and go right along the bracket. Let's go right in this area.
As you can see, I have it along all ridges going along. Now I would put my tin on here. If I can get this lined up, slide it down. Do the same to the other side. Now let's grab the other portion of our caliber. We're also going to grab this tin right here. When you go to install this tin, you want to make sure you have it in this direction. You want to have the smaller end, or the area with the smaller prongs, facing away from the piston, not facing towards the piston. If you put this in backwards, you could damage the boot.
We're going to take it just like this coming down at this angle, slide it all the way back up against there. Make sure it's not hitting anywhere, and then push this down. Should want to lock in. Make sure that it can not pop up and out of there. You can just lift up on it. Take a look from the backside. You can see that I have my ears holding it in and then this one right there is also holding it in. You can give it a nice push and it's definitely not going to fall out. Let's grab our old caliper and we're just gonna get the pads out of there. We'll bring those over to the vehicle.
Let's grab our caliper bracket and our caliper bracket bolts. If you have any leftover thread locker on them, make sure you clean it off. And if you want to put on some new, it's probably a great idea Put this right over. Start in both of your bolts before you tighten either of them down. Now let's bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these to 148 foot-pounds. Now it's time to install our brake pads. When you go to install it, you want to make sure that you have your squealer, or the wear indicator, facing down. That's it. I've got that one right here. Slide that in. And then my outer pad, I'm going to do the same thing. My wear indicator facing down.
Now we're going to take our caliper here. We're going to use some more of that Moly grease going right around the piston here. And we're also going to come right up along these ears. Pretty much anywhere where the pad's going to ride up against or touch up against. You want to make sure you have some form of lubricant and that'll help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Take that caliper, slide it right over those pads. Here we are. Grab your two new bolts. A little bit of thread locker is probably a good idea. Torque these to 31 foot-pounds.
Let's go ahead and grab onto this little rubber plug there. Get that out. We've got our banjo bolt. The caliper came with a brand new one. It also came with two brand new gaskets. Take your banjo bolt, put one of your gaskets on there. Hold on to that other one. Go ahead and grab that flex hose. You're going to take the bolt, banjo bolt with the gasket go through. Take your other gasket and put it on the backside of that banjo bolt between where it's going to connect onto the caliper. And then go ahead and start that in by hand. Go ahead and snug this up. Bottomed out right there. Let's continue on just maybe an eighth of a turn.
There we are. Give your hose a nice wiggle, make sure that it can not pivot around and there's no way that this banjo bolt can loosen up. Let's go ahead and remove those pliers. Make sure that your hose is not twisted in any way. If it's making a little curly-cue or a pigtail or anything like that, you need to remove it or move your caliber and re-spin it so it's straight. Do is get this little off of the bleeder. Save that. We'll use a 10-millimeter. We'll just break this free real quick. There we are.
Now I'm just going to close it up lightly here. We'll get inside the vehicle and I'm going to pump up the brake until it's a semi-firm pedal. It's not going to be super firm because there isn't any fluid inside the caliper yet. Now that we have that pumped up, we're going to start off by opening this bleeder screw. And we're just going to wait a minute until we see some fluid coming out of here. I'd like to see a nice steady stream of fluid rather than a whole bunch of air bubbles. This is great. We've definitely got fluid coming out here at this point.
I can give the hose a little wiggle. See if I can get out any little bit of air that I can at this point. I'd say that that's close enough. Let's just go ahead and close it right down. You don't need to tighten it up very much because at this point we need to continue with the correct bleeding process. Now, the next thing that we're going to want to do is get up and make sure we double-check the brake fluid level. We want to make sure that the fluid's nice and level. Once we've done that, we're going to need a second person or you can continue on by doing the single-person bleed but it's easier with a second person.
So we'll have the second person get inside the vehicle and they're going to pump up the brakes for us. Go ahead and pump. So now they say holding. So I'm going to open this up and we're going to watch for fluid and air coming out. Now I'll close it up. I'll have them pump again. Go ahead and pump. I'm going to open it up. I'm going to watch for air bubbles again. You notice when it's an air bubble because it'll come shooting out kind of sporadically, it'll look like a big old mess just spraying.
So that one started off with a couple of little splats and then it went ahead and turned into a nice solid stream. So I think we're doing all right but let's do it one more time to be sure. Go ahead and pump. Now I got another air bubble there. I'm still going to continue pumping because why not? I like to make sure that there's zero air inside of the hydraulic system. It's very important. Go ahead and pump. So now with that pump, I got nowhere. That was a nice, solid stream of fluid.
At this point, it's probably a great idea to just do it one more time just to make sure that there's no air inside of the hydraulic system. That was a nice solid stream the whole way. At this point, I'm going to grab that bleeder, make sure it's nice and snug. We'll clean it up a little bit. Make sure you put your rubber boot back on there. That's very important. It's going to keep the moisture and debris out of your bleeder screw. And then, of course, I would clean up the rest of my corresponding area.
Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Let's start on those lug nuts and then we'll bottom them out and we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Let's torque them. Double-check them if you want. And if you have a center cover, put that on as well. After we make sure we double-check that brake fluid, give it a wiggle. It looks as though this is low. There's the maximum line. Open this up. We're going to add some DOT 3 brake fluid. Bring it right up to that maximum line. Make sure you close it back up. Down the road you go.
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