Kit Includes: (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm (1) Idler Arm Bracket (2) Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
Specification
Drivetrain
Rear Wheel Drive
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
How To Replace Outer Tie Rod 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Idler Arm Bracket Assembly 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Idler Arm Idler Arm Mounting Bracket 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
How to Replace Pitman Arm 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Pitman Arm 1995-2000 Chevy Tahoe PART 1
How to Replace Idler Arm Idler Arm Mounting Bracket 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
How to Replace Idler Arm Bracket Assembly 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
Created on:
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
Measuring Tape
Locking Pliers
Socket Driver
Copper Anti-Seize
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Liquid Thread Locker
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Rust Penetrant
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Pickle Fork
24mm Wrench
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
Once you've safely raised and supported your vehicle so you can see underneath, you wanna remove this plate. If you take out these two bolts, this should swing down far enough to see right there. Let's use our 15-millimeter socket to remove this plate as well. That way there we'll have some room to get into the front end with our pickle fork. Remove this.
The next thing we're gonna do is remove this nut right here. Use your 22-millimeter socket. Now that we have the nut off right here, we're gonna come right from this side with our pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate this joint right here. If you wanna spray it with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. There we go.
Okay, so I've got my ratchet with my extension and my 18-millimeter going through the frame holding that bolt side. The next thing I wanna do is remove the nut on the inside area of the frame. Let's do the same to all three mounting bolts. Now let's just push these bolts in a little bit. Obviously, we don't want them to fall out into the frame. If they do, you just use a magnet, you can grab them out. But by pushing them in at least towards the frame. Oh, it fell into the frame like I said it would. Now we can lift this up and out of here.
Now it's gonna be time to get this together. It comes with a locking nut, so you don't necessarily have to use any thread locker. Put this arm so that the stud is facing down, just like this. Take your nut. If you were to look inside there, you can see that there's an Allen head socket, so we'd use the according Allen head. Can hold the center, and then we're gonna turn the nut using a 24-millimeter wrench until it's nice and tight. Okay, bottomed out right there. Give it a couple extra bonks here. That's nice and tight.
So it's a great idea to use a magnet from the outside of the frame and take out at least two of those bolts that are up there. I like to leave just one. That way there it's a couple less things that I have to worry about pushing through as I get this up and lined up. It's much better to just have one up there. I can have a socket with an extension holding it still, and I'll get that one kind of snugged up a little bit, and then I'll start on the others.
I'm gonna get this shaft right inside this arm. That's gonna be the super important part. Okay, now I'm gonna twist this until all the rest of it lines up, right about like that. Now, I'm gonna use my extension from the other side, I got it through already, see if I can turn this in, get it started. There we go. That one's through. I'm gonna start the nut on there real quick. Should come with a washer. If it came with a washer, the washer goes on the bolt, and then, of course, the nut. It's a great idea to use a little bit of thread locker as well. Goes right up on there. Now there's no chance for this bolt to fall out. Let's continue on by doing the same to the other two. So now it's time to snug these up. I've got my 18-millimeter wrench on the bolt end through the frame there, and I'm gonna go ahead and use my 18-millimeter swivel socket to snug these up. That's nice and tight. Do the same to all three. Okay, all three are nice and tight. That looks great. Let's move along to torque this to 40 foot-pounds. All right, let's do the same to all the rest. Let's get this on here. We're just gonna snug it up, and then we're gonna torque it to 40 foot-pounds. That's 40. Now you just wanna make sure that the slots on your castle nut are lined up with the hole that goes through here for the cotter pin. Once it's lined up, you put it through and make sure you lock it down. If it isn't lined up, you need to continue tightening until it is. Let's get that locking cotter pin in here. Slides right through. Like I said, make sure you peen it over that way there there's no way this nut can come loose. All right, let's get the plate up here. Let's go ahead and get our shield up here.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Liquid Thread Locker
Pickle Fork
Bearing Grease
Pitman Arm Puller
Socket Driver
Paper Towels
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Hammer
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Pitman Arm Puller
34mm Socket
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
11mm Socket
1. Diagnosis
To check to see if you have a bad pitman arm, jack up your car and secure it.
Move your wheel and if there is play in your pitman arm and joint.
2. Remove the skid plate
Unbolt the four 15 mm bolts.
Remove the kid plate and set aside.
3. Prepare the steering box to access the pitman arm
Unclip and move aside the plastic shield.
Spray the two fittings and the bolt with penetrating oil.
Loosen the power steering coupling bolt.
Use a fitting wrench to remove the two fittings and an 11 mm socket and ratchet and extension to remove the bolt.
Have a helper hold the steering wheel for you while you do this to make it easier.
Use a pry bar to move the steering shaft from the steering box.
4. Remove the steering box and pitman arm
Use a 21 mm bolt to remove the bolt mounting the pitman arm.
Use a joint fork and a hammer to separate the joint.
Remove the three bolts securing the steering box and remove the steering box completely to remove the pitman arm.
Put the steering box and pit man arm in an oil pan.
Use an impact wrench or a large breaker bar as well as a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering arm.
5. For reinstallation please see part 2
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to install a new Pitman arm on this 1996 Tahoe. It is the same as any 1988 to 1998 Chevy truck. This is a four-wheel drive vehicle. So four wheel drive trucks and also 1992 to 1999 SUVs, four-wheel drives.
You will need the following tools: penetrating oil, a whole host of mm sockets, 18-mm fitting wrench, joint fork and hammer Pitman arm puller and actually not listed here was a 19-mm socket and ratchet or your tire iron to remove your tire. You'll also need a jack and jack stand or lift.
To check and see if you have a bad Pitman arm you can see where this front driver's side tire we're going up and under. Here's your transfer to here and then up right there is the joint of your Pitman arm. This here is your Pitman arm and then this is your steering linkage. Again, here is your Pitman arm. Here's your steering linkage. Now when you move your tires, I'm just grabbing hold of the tires and kind of turning them back and forth when the car is above the ground and you can see there is a lot of play and movement going on around that Pitman arm. That joint is bad.
First, you'll want to remove this skid plate which is four 15-mm bolts. You can see two easy here, and there's one up here and one you cannot really see, but over here. Now we're going to remove the steering box to get to the Pitman arm. Okay. So, this is the driver's side of the engine compartment. There's the power break booster and this right down here is your steering box. It's a little difficult to see. It's where you can see these tubes going in. There is a plastic shield here. It kind of clips around. Now you can see this was clipped up and around here. You just kind of peel that off and pull this plastic shield back and now you're going to want to use some penetrating oil and douse both your fittings, one here and then one a little further up. It's kind of difficult to see.
There are two fittings to douse with penetrating oil and then there's also a bolt. You might be able to barely see there and then you also want to loosen this bolt here and that loosens the coupler from the steering box shaft. The best tool for removing those power steering fittings is a fitting wrench like this, 18 mm. See it down on there? I got it on there and then once you loosen it with a fitting wrench you can usually get an open-end wrench on there to help you navigate it the rest of the way.
Then, make sure you have a catch pan underneath to catch the fluid as it starts leaking out. Now we're going to use an 11-mm socket and ratchet and extension to loosen that bolt. Down in there put the socket and ratchet on there. At this point it might be good to have someone help you just hold the steering wheel so it keeps that from turning at all. Once you remove the bolt then you want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and put it down in there and just make sure that you can move the steering shaft away from the steering box and if you watch you can see that the shaft is moving from the steering box pretty easily. When I actually unbolt the steering box I'll be able to pull it right out.
No from underneath here's the front of our transfer case on this four-wheel drive truck and this is our Pitman arm joint right here. So, it's a 21-mm bolt. I'll use an impact wrench. As you can see we removed the tire over here and this is a joint fork. So, we're going to bring it in from the side here and then use a good hammer. Basically we just removed the tire so we can get a good wrap on this fork. Okay. You see that fork just separates that joint. Now we get to the three bolts that hold your steering box on and I just used a little screwdriver kind of bend this fender up a little bit because it was in the way and you can just tap it back down with a hammer when you're done. Then you can easily get a socket and extension on there, and just to show you it can be done with hand tools, again, 21-mm. I'll just do the rest of it with an impact wrench just to be quicker.
Hold on to the box with one hand. If not it's just going to fall out. Move it up and out of the steering gear and pull it forward from the shaft. Here's the bottom of it. Put the steering box here, upside down, once again just so any more fluids just drain out into the pan. Here's where having an impact wrench is going to be really valuable. Then this socket is a 34 mm. If you don't have an impact you can just turn it on all the way and then use a large bar. You may want someone to help hold it. You could bolt your steering box onto a longer piece of wood which would help you to keep it steady, but having an impact wrench is the best way. Now, you're going to want to use your Pitman arm puller. This is really the only way to do this.
Believe it or not I actually forgot to film, or I messed up and I didn't film pulling the Pitman arm off so I'm just going to show you how to use the Pitman arm puller and the tool on to the idler arm. It's the same idea. You would just be doing it on the steering box. Put the tool on like that and then put your wrench on there and then pull and it breaks it right free. Okay, and this ends part one of this video. If you want to see, obviously, reinstalling the Pitman arm go please to part two.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Feel free to call us toll free, 888-844 3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person. Thank you.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Rust Penetrant
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Pickle Fork
24mm Wrench
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Straight Cutters
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
Once you've safely raised and supported your vehicle so you can see underneath, you wanna remove this plate. If you take out these two bolts, this should swing down far enough to see right there. Let's use our 15-millimeter socket to remove this plate as well. That way there we'll have some room to get into the front end with our pickle fork. Remove this.
The next thing we're gonna do is remove this nut right here. Use your 22-millimeter socket. Now that we have the nut off right here, we're gonna come right from this side with our pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate this joint right here. If you wanna spray it with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. There we go.
Okay, so I've got my ratchet with my extension and my 18-millimeter going through the frame holding that bolt side. The next thing I wanna do is remove the nut on the inside area of the frame. Let's do the same to all three mounting bolts. Now let's just push these bolts in a little bit. Obviously, we don't want them to fall out into the frame. If they do, you just use a magnet, you can grab them out. But by pushing them in at least towards the frame. Oh, it fell into the frame like I said it would. Now we can lift this up and out of here.
Now it's gonna be time to get this together. It comes with a locking nut, so you don't necessarily have to use any thread locker. Put this arm so that the stud is facing down, just like this. Take your nut. If you were to look inside there, you can see that there's an Allen head socket, so we'd use the according Allen head. Can hold the center, and then we're gonna turn the nut using a 24-millimeter wrench until it's nice and tight. Okay, bottomed out right there. Give it a couple extra bonks here. That's nice and tight.
So it's a great idea to use a magnet from the outside of the frame and take out at least two of those bolts that are up there. I like to leave just one. That way there it's a couple less things that I have to worry about pushing through as I get this up and lined up. It's much better to just have one up there. I can have a socket with an extension holding it still, and I'll get that one kind of snugged up a little bit, and then I'll start on the others.
I'm gonna get this shaft right inside this arm. That's gonna be the super important part. Okay, now I'm gonna twist this until all the rest of it lines up, right about like that. Now, I'm gonna use my extension from the other side, I got it through already, see if I can turn this in, get it started. There we go. That one's through. I'm gonna start the nut on there real quick. Should come with a washer. If it came with a washer, the washer goes on the bolt, and then, of course, the nut. It's a great idea to use a little bit of thread locker as well. Goes right up on there. Now there's no chance for this bolt to fall out. Let's continue on by doing the same to the other two. So now it's time to snug these up. I've got my 18-millimeter wrench on the bolt end through the frame there, and I'm gonna go ahead and use my 18-millimeter swivel socket to snug these up. That's nice and tight. Do the same to all three. Okay, all three are nice and tight. That looks great. Let's move along to torque this to 40 foot-pounds. All right, let's do the same to all the rest. Let's get this on here. We're just gonna snug it up, and then we're gonna torque it to 40 foot-pounds. That's 40. Now you just wanna make sure that the slots on your castle nut are lined up with the hole that goes through here for the cotter pin. Once it's lined up, you put it through and make sure you lock it down. If it isn't lined up, you need to continue tightening until it is. Let's get that locking cotter pin in here. Slides right through. Like I said, make sure you peen it over that way there there's no way this nut can come loose. All right, let's get the plate up here. Let's go ahead and get our shield up here.
Tools used
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Liquid Thread Locker
Safety Glasses
PSA47363
In Stock
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