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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
We're gonna start by taking the wheel off. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off all the lug nuts. And take the wheel off. Now, we can take these caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And if the caliper slide is spinning, you can use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold it while you take the bolt out. Now, you can grab the caliper. You might want to rock it back and forth a little bit. That'll compress the piston a little, make it easier to slide off.
And then, you can use a brake caliper hanger, and just hang it from the upper control arm, or you can hang it from the coil spring just like that. Just make sure there's not any tension on the brake hose itself. Now, take the brake pads off, just slide them out of the way. Now, we're gonna take the bracket off. You need to take these two bolts out, use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen these up. And then, grab the bracket, and just slide it off. Now, you're gonna take the rotor off, just grab it and slide it.
If it's stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these locations. It's stuck on the parking brake a little bit. Just try to wiggle it. You can just take a prybar and try, and pry in here a little bit. It should get this off. All right. I'm just gonna take two screwdrivers, just try to wiggle this back and forth. There we go, slides right off. Before you put the new rotor on, just take a wire brush, and just clean up some of the rust right here. You could also use a die grinder, and just don't sand down too much. Just get some of the rust off.
Now, you're gonna install this rotor backwards first. Take a little brake parts cleaner, just clean off the backside, and flip it around, and slide it over the parking brake. If you have to adjust the parking brake, you can adjust it right there. And then, spray this side with brake parts cleaner, and wipe it down with a rag. Now, you're gonna take a wire brush, and just clean up this bracket. If you're gonna reuse these clips, just clean these up. If not, take them off.
Just clean up some of this rust right here. Do the same with the other side. And then, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a nice, thin coat right here. Same on the other side. And then, take these pad slides, and do the same. Put on a nice, thin coat. And then, take these pad slides out. The slide pins. Take a little break parts cleaner and a rag. Just wipe these off. You can clean this out with brake parts cleaner as well. Wipe that down.
Take a little brake caliper grease, and just reinstall it, and do the same with the other side. Now, take the caliper bracket, and line it back up. Brake caliper bolts, get those started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds. Now, I'm gonna put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicators are gonna go to the top. So, on the inboard pad goes at the top and same with the outboard pad. Just slide them into position. That's good.
Now, I'm gonna take the brake caliper off the hook. Now, I'm just gonna take the old brake pads and a caliper compressor tool and just compress the pistons. You need to push them back into the caliper, and just slowly compress it. You don't want to do it too fast. It's just gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir.
All right. That's good. Fully compressed, and just slide it over the brake pads. Put the caliper bolts in. And take a 17-millimeter wrench, and torque this bolt to 30-foot-pounds. Do the same on the top. All right. Put the wheel on, and put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheels down evenly, and just go around and double-check.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace your E-brake shoes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new emergency brake shoes from 1Aauto.com; 8, 12, 18, and 22 mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; flat blade screw driver; large C-clamp; torque wrench; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
Then, to inspect your brakes, just run your finger along the rotor, and check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad, and then through here for the life of the other brake pad.
Now, remove these two 12 mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You just put it on this end on the back of the caliper, and on this brake pad and just twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Now, remove the large C-clamp. Pull the caliper free and set it aside. Now, pry out the brake pads.
Now remove these two 18 mm bolts. Just use a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll just fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Now pull your caliper bracket off. Pull the rotor off.
There should be a bracket underneath here held in with an 8mm bolt. So, you'd want to remove that next. Ours is missing. After that, you can pull your E-brake shoes forward, and then hit them down. Now you just want to pull it over the hub. You do have to angle it just right to get it over.
Now, before you install your new E-brake shoes, make sure you put this new bracket into place. The E brake shoes from 1Aauto do come with this bracket. Just replace that 8mm bolt and tighten it up. Put your new E-Brake shoes on. Now you want to just put these two tabs on the ends of the shoes into these two slots, one on either side of the adjuster here. Once you get one side into the slot, just use a flat blade screw driver to pry the other side. Once it's lined up, you can just use your flat blade screw driver to just turn this adjuster. If it's a little stiff, just use a hammer. Just adjust it so that when you put your rotor on there's just a little bit of resistance.
Slide your new rotor into place. Then twist on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Then put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds.
Push your brake pads back into place. Then, put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. Now we'll just fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place. Then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace that hub cap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers.
Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, and then 10 miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Okay, friends, one of the first things we have to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you have your wheels off the ground in the rear, we're gonna go ahead and remove all six of these lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, that the wheel is off, we have a clear view of our caliper. If you were to be able to see behind this tin, you're gonna be able to see where the caliper piston is. We need to be able to push that piston back.
To do that, if this shield wasn't here, you can come in between and just slowly pry, or if you do have that shield where you can come is right up along here, just get in between the pad and the caliper, and then slowly pry as well, and just keep working your way back and forth until the piston is all the way in.
The next thing that we need to do is remove our caliper bolts. These are the bolts that are gonna hold the caliper to the bracket. I like to hold onto my slider, so it can't spin. I'll leave that bolt loose, but leave it in for now. Do the same to the other one. I can get both these bolts outta here. Hold onto that caliper so it can't fall. Slide it off. I always like to take a peak at my caliper to make sure that it's not leaking any fluid along where the boot should be. Set this aside. Now, let's remove those brake pads. Set those aside.
Now, we have a clear view of our brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove them both. And then put in a couple threads. Remove the bracket. At this point, you wanna give your rotor a little wiggle. If it doesn't seem like it wants to break free, grab a lug nut, start it on there a few threads. Now, with your hand protection and eye protection, of course, we're gonna go ahead and give it a bonk with a hammer to break it free. You can come right up along the top here.
If that doesn't work and you're not reusing your rotor, of course, you could, of course, bonk on the braking surface, or even better than that, from the backside. Remove your rotor. Now, it's gonna be time to prep the brand new rotor. To do that, you wanna make sure you clean the braking surface. A little bit of parts cleaner, a nice rag. Get off any of the coding that might be on there. It should come with a little coding on there to prevent against rust. Go ahead and flip that over.
Now, you can see the other braking surface. We'll clean that. And now, we also wanna make sure we clean this area right along here, because this is where the emergency brake shoe is gonna ride. Now, at this point, you have a clear view of your e-brake shoe and of course of the axle mating surface where it's gonna connect onto the rotor. If you're axle looks as though it's in poor condition, maybe it's got a lot of rust, or rot, or debris, or anything like that all over it, you'd, of course, wanna sand it down, make it look nice and smooth, and then code it just like this with some copper Never-seez.
Before we go ahead and put the rotor on there, we also wanna take a look at this right here. This is your emergency brake shoe. If you happen to notice that your emergency brake shoe doesn't have any meat on it, maybe it looks a little bit more like this one where it's literally just a solid shoe of metal and it has no more breaking material, you need to go ahead and replace that. And if you need instructional video on how to do that, we have it. We get a nice new coding of Never-seez on there after we cleaned it down. We've got our rotor. Carefully, slide it up on here. We get the rotor on there.
Now, what we need to do is head up our vehicle in neutral, so that we can spin our rear wheels. And we just kinda wanna push in and give this a little spin, and listen for a scraping noise. I can hear a very minor scraping noise there. So that tells me that I don't have very much drag from my e-brake shoes to the inner portion of my rotor. If you put your rotor on, maybe it was a difficult time pushing on, and you went to turn it, and it just didn't want to turn at all, your e-brake shoes are probably over adjusted and you're gonna have an issue.
If that was the case, you would just pull this off and then you can look down here at your adjuster. With the caliper bracket over on the bench, I just wanna show you areas that you're gonna wanna clean up. You wanna clean up this area right along here, and right there, the same right here. If you were to take your tin and you were to put it over it, any area that touches that... If you were to take your tin and put it right over the bracket, you'll be able to see exactly where you need to clean up. Any areas that the bracket is gonna touch up against this tin need to be nice and smooth, and they also need to be lubricated. Just take your little brush, clean up in between there, clean up all this right here.
If there's any really tough areas that don't seem like they wanna break free but they're raised up, use a nice screwdriver or whatever you might have, and just kinda clean up any of that crud or anything like that that might be on there. Now, once you've cleaned all the mounting areas for where your tins are gonna go for your brake pads, you're gonna come right here to the sliders. Grab that, pull it right out. Take your rag, clean it up. Inspect the slider, make sure it's in good condition. If it looks like it's pitted or it's gonna cause restriction going in and out, you either need to clean it up better with a wire wheel or replace it.
If you were to look inside here, you're gonna need that to be nice and clean as well. You can do something as simple as maybe using a bore brush, something like that inside there. Of course, you don't wanna damage the boot, though, so you'd wanna be very careful. Get out as much of the crud as you can inside there, make it as clean as possible.
Maybe even take a nice rag, twist it, put it right inside there, and get out as much as possible. I'm gonna use some nice silicone here. This is Moly grease, it's great for calipers. You wanna make sure you get right up along this area right there. If you can see where that lip is, where my finger is, get some grease all up on there. It's gonna be super important because that's gonna help keep moisture out right along this seal.
Slide that in there. Give it a nice twist. Move along. Those sliders are in there. Let's go ahead and go right along the bracket. Just go right in this area. As you can see, I have it along all ridges going along. Now, I would put my tin on here. See if I can get this lined up. Slide it down. Do the same to the other side. Let's grab our caliper bracket and our caliper bracket bolts. If you have any leftover threadlocker on them, make sure you clean it off. And if you wanna put on some new, it's probably a great idea.
Put this right over. Start in both of your bolts before you tighten either of them down. Now, let's bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specification. Let's go ahead and torque these to 148 foot-pounds. Now, it's time to install our brake pads. When you go to install it, you wanna make sure that you have your squealer or the wear indicator facing down. And so I got that one right here. Slide that in. And then my outer pad, I'm gonna do the same thing. My wear indicator facing down.
What I'm doing now is I'm lubricating the mating points where the pads gonna touch up against the caliper. So right along that piston, and then of course, both of these ears. Awesome. See if we can slide this over. Grab your bolts. If you want to use some threadlocker, once again, you're prerogative. Now, let's torque these to 31 foot-pounds. Hold that. There we are. So now, let's just go pump up the brakes.
Now, it's gonna be time to get the wheel up on here. Let's start on those lug nuts. And then we'll bottom them out. And we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Let's torque them. Double-check them if you want. And if you have a center cover, put that on as well. Let's make sure we double check that brake fluid. Give it a wiggle. It looks as though this is low. There's the maximum line. Open this up. We're gonna add some DOT 3 brake fluid. Bring it right up to that maximum line. Make sure you close it back up, down the road, you go.
Tools used
You can take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Take that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and then a 16-millimeter wrench, just to hold the slide from spinning, loosen these up. Now we'll just use a screwdriver, pry the caliper off. Pull that out, then you can use a caliper hanger and just support it from the upper control arm right there. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Slide it over here. Take the brake pads off. Use the same straight blade screwdriver.
And take an 18-millimeter socket, take these 2 caliper bracket bolts out. Take these bolts out and slide the bracket right off. Now take the rotor off. If it's stuck on there, just take a hammer. Get a tap in these areas. Just try to not hit the studs. It should be loose. Try not to breathe any of that in, and slide it off.
We're gonna take the parking brake shoe off. There's a clip right here that's held in with an 8-millimeter bolt. Use an 8-millimeter socket to take that off. Slide that bolt out. Then we can slide this out. And if you just push the whole shoe assembly down, and get it to pop off, that lever right there, and this takes a little bit of effort. You don't have to take the axle out to get these off. Slide one side, get the other side out. Just like that. I'm just gonna take this adjuster out. Take that out. Clean that up a little bit. You can use a wire brush, and same with the other side. There should be a pin on that side. I'm just gonna put some grease on here before I put it back. Put the adjuster side on this side, and when you do the other side, it's going to be the opposite. And this pin's all cleaned up. Just put some grease inside there and get that pin in. Put a lot more grease on that. And the grease will hold it in there, and just slide this on this side.
Take the new shoes, and just angle this. This might take a couple tries to get it right. Here you go. Like I said, you really don't have to bend it, just angle it at the right angle. It might take a little practice. What you can do is get this to slide on like that and then we can move these afterwards. Just get it in the right position. You can try using a screwdriver or even some pliers. Try twisting this a little bit. Get that to line up with the screwdriver. Do the same on the other side. Find the correct hole down that matches the one you took off. Slide that in position with the new bolt and snug that bolt up, not too tight. That's good.
I'm just gonna clean up this surface right here. You can use a wire brush or some type of grinding wheel. Just be careful. You don't want to take too much material off, just get some of the rough stuff. Take a little anti-seize, put it on the hub area right here. When you go to put the rotor on, you may have to adjust the parking brake. You can spin that wheel either forward or backward and it will either tighten it or loosen it. Slide the rotor on, just make sure it spins good, and then double check with your parking brake, and adjust accordingly.
Slide the brake caliper bracket in place. Put the bolts in. You can use a little thread locking compound on the bolts. Now I'm going to torque these bolts to 122 foot pounds. I'm gonna install the brake pads. Make sure you have the brake pad warning indicator facing up on the outside and also on the inside. Now we'll take the brake caliper off. Take the hanger off. I have to compress the caliper so I use a brake caliper compressant tool. Just compress it really slow. This is gonna push the fluid through the hoses, back through the lines, back up to the master cylinder and into the reservoir. Just go nice and slow.
That's compressed. Pull the compressing tool out. Slide the caliper over the brake pads and the bracket. Take the two bolts. Install the bolts. You can put some thread locking compound on those bolts. I can use my 16-millimeter wrench, 12-millimeter socket, torque these bolts to 31 foot pounds.
And reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check.
And reinstall the center cap. Now we're gonna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pad, so we want to eliminate that air gap. Once the pedal feels good, then you're all set. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. There's the minimum line right there, the max line right there. Adjust accordingly.
Tools used
I'm gonna take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver to get that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and then a 16-millimeter wrench just to hold the slide from spinning. Loosen these up. Now, just use a screwdriver, pry the caliper off. Pull it out. Then you can use a caliper hanger and just support it from the upper control arm right there. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Slide it over here. Take the brake pads off. Just use the same straight blade screwdriver. And take an 18-millimeter socket, take these 2 caliper bracket bolts up. Take these bolts out and slide the bracket right off. Now, take the rotor off. If it's stuck on there, just take a hammer, give it a tap in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs. Keep it loose. Try not to breathe any of that in and slide it off. I'm just gonna clean up this surface right here. You can use a wire brush or some type of grinding wheel. Just be careful, you don't wanna take too much material off. Just get some of the rust off. Take a little anti-seize, just put it on the hub area right here. Now, we're just gonna put the rotor on backwards first and we're gonna clean off the surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. There is a protective coating on this, clean that up. You can clean up the inside of the drum area as well for the parking brake. Flip that around and clean off this area as well.
When you go to put the rotor on, you may have to adjust the parking brake. You can spin that wheel either forward or backward and...or you can either tighten it or loosen it. Just slide the rotor on just to make sure it spins good. And then double-check with your parking brake and adjust accordingly. Now, take these pad clips off or pad slides or sometimes they call them anti-rattle clips. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Use a wire brush, clean up any rust built up, right here, and on the other side. With that cleaned up, and then just take a little brake caliper grease, give it a nice thin coat. It's gonna keep the moisture out, keep it from rusting as bad as it was. Then take these clips and slide it in position. Put more caliper grease, just a nice thin coat there and there, wherever the pads are gonna contact it. And then do the same on this side. I'm gonna take these caliper guide pins out. Use a little brake parts cleaner and a rag, clean these up. And I'll also spray a little brake parts cleaner down there. Clean those up with a rag as well. You can drain anything out. And take some brake caliper grease, coat the pin, put it back in. Make sure it seals, and do the same on this one. Slide the brake caliper bracket in place, put the bolts in. You can use a little thread locking compound on the bolts. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122 foot-pounds.
Now, I'm gonna install the brake pads. Make sure you have the brake pad warning indicator facing up on the outside and also on the inside. Now, take the brake caliper off, take the hanger off. Now, I have to compress the caliper, so use a brake caliper compressing tool. Just compress it really slow. This is gonna push the fluid through the hoses, back through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir. Just go nice and slow. All right, if that's compressed, pull the compressing tool out. Now, we have a new little bracket right here. It comes with the brake kit. Just take a straight blade screwdriver, this little tab right here, just push in on that tab. Slide that off, take the new one, slide it in there, and then just push it, lock it in place. So, that's in there just like that. This is just gonna push down on the pads and just keep them from rattling around. Slide the caliper over the brake pads in the bracket. Take the two bolts, install the bolts. You can put some thread locking compound on those bolts, and then use my 16-millimeter wrench, 12-millimeter socket, torque these bolts to 31 foot-pounds. And reinstall the wheel, put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Then just go around again, double-check. And then reinstall the center cap. Now, I'm gonna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pad, so we wanna eliminate that air gap. And once the pedal feels good, then you're all set. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. There's the minimum line right there and the max line right there, adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, 12 and 22 mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad, and then, through here for the life of the other brake pad.
Now, remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and just twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry out the brake pads.
Take your new brake pads and apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. You want to reset the pistons in your caliper so put an old brake pad in there and just twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons back in. Push your new brake pads into place, and then, put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12 mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place and then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers. Before taking the vehicle out on the road you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 12, 18, and 22 mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; large C-clamp; torque wrench; brake grease; brake cleaner; and jack and jack stands. Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. You want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad and then through here for the life of the other brake pad. Remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry up the brake pads.
Remove these two 18mm bolts and use a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Pull your caliper bracket off. Pull the rotor off.
On the right is the old rotor and brake pads. On the left are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Spray your rotor with some brake cleaner and wipe it down. Re-grease your caliper slides and apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.
Slide your new rotor into place and then twist on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds.
To reset your caliper pistons, you want to put a brake pad in front of the pistons and twist the large C-clamp until it pushes the pistons in. Push your brake pads back into place and put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place, and then, replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then, replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers.
Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour, and then ten miles per hour and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Okay, friends. One of the first things we have to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you have your wheels off the ground in the rear, we're gonna go ahead and remove all six of these lug nuts. Remove your wheel. One of the next things that we need to do is take a nice small pry bar like this, we're gonna come in between the caliper and the pad and we're just gonna apply a little bit of leverage. What we wanna do is just push in that caliper piston just a teeny bit to take the pressure off of the brakes. The next thing we need to do is remove our two 18-millimeter mounting bolts for our caliper. Just take a wrench, can use a socket with a ratchet if you'd like. There's one bolt. I'm just gonna start that in just a couple threads to hold the caliper for me while I remove the second. There it is. Let's get that other one out of there. Next, we're gonna take the caliper and we'll just set it up here where it's gonna be nice and safe. Just make sure you put it somewhere that it's not gonna potentially fall down and hopefully not hurt you in any way.
Now it's gonna be time to remove your rotor. You might need to give it a couple light bonks. The next thing we're gonna do is use our 8-millimeter and we're gonna remove this small bolt right here. Just be careful because very often it's frozen in there and it might break off. Nice long ratchet did the trick. That little bolt out of there. Grab this out of here. Set those aside. Just gonna grab onto this. You'll notice it can move around now. If you were to look under here, you're gonna see the adjuster. If you just take that shoe, move it kinda closer to the axle and then give it a loving bonk down, it should come free from the adjuster. Go ahead and grab that shoe. At this point you can try to weasel it off the axle. There we are.
The next thing we're gonna have to do is take out this area right here. This is gonna be the adjuster and it should separate. We'll just spray it down with some penetrant. That looks good. Grab my little pry bar here. We need to separate the cogged area from the base area. Okay, starting to come up. Get this side out of there too. Right inside this area is where the adjustment's supposed to be for the emergency brake shoe. If you take it apart and you happen to notice that this part right here is frozen, the part that has a little cog, this part right here should spin in there. If it does not, you need to completely separate these, clean them up, re-lubricate them and then, of course, put them back together. This piece right here has like a little bobble. Believe it or not that's not one piece. It actually does come apart so you wanna be careful not to lose this. It's a great idea to clean all this up as well. That's just about good right there. This flows smoothly. It's looking great. You wanna make sure that this area right here is nice and clean, free of debris or anything that might obstruct it from being able to spin because that's gonna go inside this hole right here. How can I tell that this goes inside of this hole and not in the bottom hole? Because of this little clip right here. That clip is gonna line up with the notches on this and it's gonna prevent it from spinning on its own. We're not gonna put that in yet though. What we're gonna do, grab some more of that caliper grease and we're gonna put it right inside the hole on the other piece. All right, this is gonna be the other end. Just try to fill it right in there if you want. Get some more. More the merrier. Put it right in. Now I'm gonna grab my nice, clean pin. I inspected it. It's in good condition. I'll just put it right in there. Now we need to put a nice coating of that grease all along the areas where it's gonna rub up along the unit right there.
Now that those are nice and coated, let's continue on with the grease a little bit more and we're gonna go directly to where the adjuster is gonna be. You can go ahead and put in as much grease as you want. If you put in too much, it's not really that big of a deal but what you will notice is it will kinda come out and if that was to happen, you would just kinda clean it up so you don't get any mess on your emergency brake shoe. Now we're gonna take our pieces. Should slide right in there. Make sure it spins like it should. Do the same to the other side. You're gonna need a little bit more of that caliper grease or whatever type of grease you're using and you're gonna put it on the contact points of this bracket where the emergency brake shoe is gonna ride. The reason for that is of course for vibration dampening and noise reduction. So, we'll come right down here because we know it's gonna ride right along the outside there. Right here. This is a spot right there. If you were to come up here, you're gonna have this whole area. It hits up against there. And then if you come along the other side, you can clearly see exactly where the emergency brake shoe was riding before.
There we go. Now it's time to get the emergency brake shoe back up on here. To do this, you're gonna have to do a little bit of contortioning and just a little bit of wiggling and I'm sure over a period of time you should be able to figure out how to get it right over there. There we are. Nice light bonk. No big deal. We'll go ahead and line these tabs up with where it's supposed to sit on the adjuster there. Should slide over. If it doesn't, you can just kinda go past. Line up the adjuster ends so they're straight up and down so they'll line up with the way that the shoe needs to go on. Once you've gone past, like I said right here, you should be able to just kinda stretch it and draw it straight up on there. That looks great.
Now it's gonna be time to get the mounting bracket on there. It's a kind of funny looking thing, but if you were to look at it, you would see that it has an indented area right here. That's gonna ride right on this bracket right there. You want it to be kinda facing in this general direction so that the black part is gonna be riding up against the inner portion or the inner ridge of this shoe. Put it up on there. Line up your screw hole and then put in your screw. All right, so that's pretty much bottomed out right there. At that point, you definitely don't wanna go too much further because it is just a very small bolt, but something that I would like to mention is you also don't wanna go tight enough. With that said, once it's bottomed out, just give it a teeny bit more. Make sure it doesn't feel as though it's super loose to you. Give this a nice little wiggle. Make sure you don't see any movement between this and the bracket itself. I think that that looks great.
The next thing that we need to do is clean up the mating surface where the rotor is gonna match up against the axle. If it's all bumped up like this or rough in any way, just go ahead and sand it down with something. Now that the majority of the area is nice and clean and sanded down, we need to continue on by getting in between the lug studs and the rest of the hub area here, right in there. If you notice there's a large build up, you can use something like this, maybe a scraper or even a flathead screwdriver, just kinda get the majority of it up. Then you can take a nice brush, just work at the rest. Now we're gonna spray down the mating areas with some copper never seize.
Go ahead and put your rotor back on there. Look at the backside. This is the area that's gonna meet up against the axle. You need to make sure that's nice and clean as well. Now that we've cleaned up the backside of the rotor, we're just gonna place it over the axle like this. Push it all the way in and it should go over the emergency brake shoes. If it doesn't go over the emergency brake shoes, de-adjust your adjuster. If it does go over but you feel as though there's no drag at all, you're probably gonna wanna adjust it up a little bit. What you're actually gonna wanna do right now is get it so it's a semi-close so you can hear the shoes just barely dragging in there. Okay, that's the sound of the shoes hitting up against the inside drum portion of this rotor. If it's too tight and you try to turn it and it just doesn't wanna turn, then you know that it's over-adjusted. If your brakes are over-adjusted, they're gonna overheat and you're gonna have major braking issues.
Now it's gonna be time to get the caliper back on the vehicle. Before you go ahead and do that, you need to make sure that you clean all the existing thread locker off of these bolts, and I always like to replace it with some new thread locker of my own. Caliper around here. Make sure that your pads are situated inside the brackets as they need to be. They might keep wanting to fall out if they're like mine. Go ahead and grab those caliper mounting bolts. Start them both in. Now we'll snug them up and we'll torque them to 148 foot-pounds. We got our torque wrench. The next thing I always like to do at this point is to make sure I pump up the brake. Now it's gonna be time to get the wheel up on here. Let's start on those lug nuts and then we'll bottom them out and we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds.
Let's the torque them. Double-check them if you want and if you have a center cover, put that on as well. Let's make sure we double-check that brake fluid. Give it a wiggle. It looks as though this is low. There's the maximum line. Open this up. We're gonna add some DOT 3 brake fluid. Bring it right up to that maximum line. Make sure you close it back up. Down the road you go.
Tools used
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