2009 GMC Acadia Front & Rear Ceramic Premium G-Coated Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ Performance BKA12353

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2012 GMC Acadia. We're going to be showing you how to remove and replace your front brakes. We're doing this on the passenger side, but the process will be the same on the driver's side. We always recommend you replace these in a pair, as well as wearing a dust mask when you're working on it, as the old pads are going to be full of rust and corrosion and brake dust that you don't want to breathe in while you're working.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13-22mm socket, wrenches, ratchet, socket extension, breaker bar, pry bar, torque wrench, T30 Torx bit, flat head screwdriver, hammer, wire brush, groovelock pliers, brake cleaner, grease, bungee cord, jack and jack stands, gloves, dust mask, and safety glasses.

Loosen your lug nuts using a twenty-two millimeter deep socket and a breaker bar. Raise and support your vehicle. You can do this with a jack and jack stands at home, but we're going to put it up on a lift to make it easier to show. Once you have your vehicle in the air, you can finish removing your lug nuts. Remove the wheel and tire.

Brace your lug studs with a pry bar so we can turn a rotor screw out with a T30 Torx bit and a ratchet. Once you get it cracked loose, you should be able to take that pry bar out of the way and just spin the rest out nice and easy. Now this screw isn't critical to how your brakes function, it's just designed to hold the rotor upright while we work on the rest of the brake components. It is nice to have, so be sure to keep it close.

Using a 13mm socket and a ratchet, we'll remove the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper. Be sure to loosen both of them before removing either one fully, or when you go to turn the other one, you can cause the caliper to twist around and it makes it a lot more difficult to remove. Keep a hand on there when you take the last bolt out so it doesn't fall and risk tearing that brake line. Work the caliper off, and using a bungee cord, mechanic's wire, or a zip tie, go ahead and secure the caliper up and out of the way.

Go ahead and pull the brake pads out. You may find this to go a little easier with the help of a small, flat blade screwdriver. We're going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar to break these caliper bracket bolts here loose. Again, this is another bolt that you're going to want to make sure you get both of them cracked loose before you remove either one fully. Otherwise, when we were to try to crack this loose with the top out, the whole caliper bracket would roll out and make it more difficult to remove. We'll go ahead and switch over to a 21mm socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper bracket from the spindle.

Now, our rotor isn't going to just pull off. What you can do is: if you aren't going to save the rotor, which we don't recommend you do anytime you change the brake pads. We recommend you do the rotors as well because you can see we have this rust buildup here. While you can get them machined, that usually brings them down so close to the factory limit that they get hot and warp more easily. If you are changing your rotors, you can hit it forward right on the rotor surface to break the rust loose. If you want to save them for some reason, you can hit here, very careful not to hit the studs, to release the rust.

Here we have our old parts that we removed from our vehicle, and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. We have the same six lug bolt pattern on our rotors. We have the same beveled hole here for our rotor screw. The brake pads are exactly the same size and shape. We even have a new audible pad indicator here, or a brake squealer, which is going to hit your rotor when your pads start to wear down to the point that it's time to change them. That will start to squeak against the rotor and give you an audible heads-up that it's time to get a brake service. The rotors are the same thickness. These actually are a little bit thicker, because they haven't been worn down like the old ones have here.

It's still a nice vented rotor, which is going to help dissipate the heat generated when braking. They're the same on the backside as well. If your old brakes are worn out, glazed, squealing, grinding, or you have rust buildup, or a warped rotor causing a vibration in the pedal, these new parts from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment. Get your vehicle stopping short and safe, just like it should, and fix you up right.

Again, anytime that you're going to be doing something that kicks up dust and debris when working on a vehicle, we recommend you wear a dust mask. Now, this hub isn't too bad, but we always clean them just to make sure that everything's nice when we put our new parts on. Use a steel wire brush to remove all that dirt and debris, all this rust buildup from the hub, so we can put a coat of grease on there and make sure we don't have to fight our rotor off on our next brake job, like we just had to here. Once you've removed all the debris from your hub surface, go ahead and apply a thin coat of grease to the flat portion and around the center bore here to make sure that we don't have anymore corrosion buildup, and that our rotors come right off by hand next time we have to do our brakes.

You always want to clean your brake caliper carrier whenever you take it off. Make sure it gets some nice, fresh grease on it to remove any old corrosion and buildup that's going to make our new brake parts not work smoothly. All we got to do here is peel the boot back off of the slide. Take the slide out. Wipe the old grease off with a paper towel or a clean rag. Give it a quick check that there are no nicks or burrs anywhere on it, no rust buildup. Just nice and clean and smooth. Just take a little bit of brake grease, dab on our finger. We’ll just apply a thin layer of that nice, new grease onto our slide to make sure it keeps the moisture and corrosion out, and keeps our new pads and caliper moving nice and smooth. Once that's done, we'll reinstall it into our caliper carrier, and push it in so the boot pops back on, and do the same thing to the other side. Now we'll take our brake hardware off here.

This is just a shim, or an insulator as they call it sometimes, to keep the pad from making noise while it moves. Keep it in there nice and tight. Pop that off. Again, with our steel wire brush, we'll just get in there and remove any corrosion and buildup. Now we will not grease this portion of it. We will take our slide, and this one's not bad, so we can just clean this up with a brush. These are really rusted or cracked anywhere, you can replace them. As long as they clean up nicely, looks like this one will, you can just go ahead and take all that off with your brush.

Once you get all of that buildup off of there, and it is okay to have a little bit, you just want to make sure you get the bulk of it off. We'll go ahead and snap it back into our caliper bracket. Then we'll repeat these steps on the opposite side. Now some people like to grease the slides directly, but I think it's a lot more efficient and a lot neater to grease the pad before we install it into the slides. If you want to do it this way, then just put a little grease on your finger and apply it to the contact surfaces on your slides. Or, when we install our pads, you can do the same thing and just grease the bottom part where it's actually going to contact this metal.

Install your rotor onto the hub backwards. Spray down the contact surface with some brake cleaner. These rotors are stored with a compound called Cosmoline on them to keep them from corroding from the factory. It's slippery, so if you leave it on there your car's not going to brake well until you've burned it all off. Once we've cleaned that side, we'll flip it over. Be sure to line up that beveled hole with the threaded hole here for our rotor screw. Reinstall our rotor the right way, and spray off this surface as well. As I was saying earlier, the rotor screw is not critical to the operation of your brakes. If you've broken it or lost it, it's not the end of the world. However, you can see our rotor hangs on an angle here, which means when we go to install our caliper carrier, our brake pads, and eventually our caliper, this little bit of angle is going to cause us some headache putting it back together. We'll push it back on flat, and with our T30 Torx socket and ratchet, we'll reinstall that screw into our rotor. Now it sits on there nice and flat and straight. It'll make our reassembly go that much smoother.

Reinstall your brake caliper carrier and start your two 21mm bolts in by hand. Tighten them down with your 21mm socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. If you didn't grease your slides earlier, grease the ears of your brake pads where they're going to contact the slides. Just a little bit is fine. Then install them into the slides on your caliper carrier.

Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, C-clamps, or a proper brake piston compressor tool, slowly compress the piston back into the caliper. If you do this too fast, you'll see the other one start moving. If it moves too far, you'll actually push it out of the caliper, which makes a big mess and it means we're going to have to bleed our brakes and add a whole lot of trouble to this job. Bring them down until they're all the way flush. If you go too fast, you may have to go back and forth a couple of times just to make sure that both pistons are fully seated before we try to install them over the pads.

Don't forget to apply a thin coat of grease to the back of your pads before installing your caliper. Remove whatever you used to secure your caliper up and out of the way. Make sure that your flex hose is not twisted or kinked anywhere. Reinstall your caliper over the slides, and your two 13mm bolts into the slides. Tighten these up with your 13mm socket and ratchet. Torque the guide pin bolts to 47 foot-pounds.

Reinstall your wheel and tire. Get your lug nuts on as tight as you can. The right way to torque a six lug wheel is to make little triangles, so we'll go like this. We'll go across the wheel, and then we'll make another little triangle this way.

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