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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ G-coated rotors have long-lasting rust prevention, perfect for wheels with large openings that expose the rotor and rotor hat during daily drives. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Electrostatic Coated Brake Rotor Features and Benefits
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. Use a 13-millimeter socket. Loosen them up first. All right. Now I'm just gonna take a straight blade screwdriver and just pry the caliper over a little bit just to compress the pistons a little bit. And that's good. Now I can slide the caliper off. And then take a brake caliper hanger and hang the caliper from the coil spring. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Now I'll take the brake pads off. Now we're gonna take these caliper bracket bolts off. Use a 21-millimeter socket. Break those free. And take those bolts out and slide that bracket right off. I'm gonna take this screw out. Use a t30 socket. Now I'll take a hammer and just hit right on these parts of the rotor. Try not to hit the studs. There we go. And slide it off.
Now I wanna clean up this hub a little bit. I'm gonna use a die grinder and just clean up some of this rust. I'm not gonna go too crazy. Just lightly sand it. Or you could use a wire brush. I'm just gonna take a light coat of anti-seize and just go around the hub. Now I'm gonna take this rotor, put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and wipe it off and then spin it around. You wanna line this hole up with that threaded hole. And do the same on this side. Now I'm gonna put this screw in and just snug it down. Now we're gonna clean up the brake caliper bracket. Take these slides off or anti-rattle clips. Just use a straight-blade screwdriver. Slide that off. You can do the same on the other side. And we wanna clean up some of this rust. You can use a wire brush or you can use a die grinder. Just be careful. Don't take off too much material. It's cleaned up. Just take some brake caliper grease. Just do a nice thin coat. And put this pad slide back on and walk it down and just another thin coat of brake caliper grease, right where the pads are gonna slide. Then you can do the same on the other side.
Now I'm gonna pull the caliper pins out just like that. You take a little bit of brake clean, brake parts cleaner, and just clean these off. And if it's extremely dirty, you can clean out the inside as well with brake parts cleaner. Take some caliper grease, slide it back in, and then just make sure you set this boot back around the pin. Then you can do the same for the other side. Now you can put this caliper bracket over the rotor and put these bolts in. You can use some thread-locking compound on these bolts.
Then we can torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Start with the top one and then the bottom. And then we'll take the brake pads and the one with the squealer or the brake warning indicator, it's gonna go on the inside with the tab facing up and the other one's gonna go on the outside. And I'll just take the caliper off the hanger. And I'm gonna use a brake caliper tool to compress the piston. It's going the wrong way. And just slowly compress the piston back into the caliper.
As you do this, this is gonna push brake fluid through the caliper, through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder. All right. Those pistons are compressed. Now I'm gonna take the caliper and make sure the hose isn't twisted and just slide it over the pads. And put the bolts back in and torque these bolts to 47 foot-pounds, starting with the top one.
All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on and put the lug nuts on. Now we're gonna tighten the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again, double-check. And now you wanna pump the brake pedal. Just go nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And once it feels good, then you're all set. And double-check the fluid level and adjust accordingly.
Tools used
The first thing we need to do to get started on these brakes is to raise and support the vehicle and then remove all your lug nuts and then the wheel. We have a clear view of our caliper. We need to push back this piston right there. Use a nice pry bar and slowly push it back. There we are. The next thing we need to do is remove these two caliper slider mounting bolts. Remove and inspect your caliper, make sure you don't see any brake fluid. Set it aside. Now, let's go ahead and remove our pads from the brackets. Now, let's go ahead and remove our caliper bracket bolts here. Remove your bracket, set it aside. Looking at the outer portion of the rotor, we're going to remove this little plug right here. There it is. Now, let's use a little bit of penetrant and spray the areas on the rotor that connects to the hub. Let's remove this Torx-headed bolt. Start on one of your lug nuts, and then bonk on the rotor to break it free from the hub.
If you find that this doesn't want to come off, you just have to de-adjust the e-brake shoes. You want to spin the rotor so the inside of this hole lines up with your adjuster screw in there, and then turn the adjuster until it loosens up. Remove your rotor. Now, let's clean down this inner surface of the hub and the outer surface of the hub. Using a nice collection bucket, let's spray down this entire area with some parts cleaner. Here's your adjuster. Let's hit it with some penetrant as well. Now, let's put on a little bit of copper never-seize on the mating surfaces of the hub. Copper never-seize right inside that mounting hole as well. So, the next thing we need to do now is clean up our brand new rotor braking surfaces.
We'll get that outer braking surface. Turn it over. And now we're going to clean up these two surfaces. Don't forget where the e-brake shoes ride. Let's get this on the car. To put this back on the vehicle, we want to make sure we line up the hole right here on the hub with the hole on the rotor. Perfect. Start in that mounting bolt and we'll snug it up. The next thing we need to do is adjust our emergency brake shoes on the inside there. We want to do that until this can't turn anymore, and then we're going to back it off a little bit. Just find that adjuster and adjust this all the way in so they touch the rotor. Okay. So that's adjusted so it's touching now. I can't turn this at all. Let's back it off just a couple of clicks here.
Now, we can start to spin and you can hear it just barely starting to touch. You don't want any drag, but you do want to hear it just barely starting to touch, just like this. A little boot back in here. Now, let's make our way over to a bench so we can clean up our caliper bracket. One of the first things I like to do is remove my sliders. Give them a nice little twist, take the boot off of there, then hold it like this, and pull the boot completely off. Set that aside on its corresponding side there. This one as well. Perfect. Let's move along to removing our tins. Set those aside for recycling. Awesome. The next thing we like to do is clean up these areas where the tin was. You want to make sure it's nice and clean with no buildup. All four corners look great. Now, we need to clean up our caliper slider ports. A little bit of parts cleaner and a nice bore brush. There we are.
Use your brush, come along the edge where the boot's supposed to be. Make sure there's no debris along there. We got that edge clean. Let's go ahead and spray it down again. And now, we'll do the same to the other side. This looks great. Let's set it aside. Let's move along to cleaning up our sliders. That's going to be the same process for either slider. Go ahead and clean them down. Look at them. And then you want to inspect this area right here. You want to make sure that there's no crud inside there as well. Anything that gets in between there could potentially mean moisture gets inside and contaminates your slider. Okay. So, now this one looks pretty great. We'll set that aside. Now we're going to clean up the boots. You want to make sure you get off all this gunk, especially the stuff on the inside there. Pull that through. Now we're just going to give it a nice wipe.
So, now we've got our slider and our boot cleaned down. Do the same to the other side. Now let's continue on with the bracket here. We're going to take a little bit of this caliper grease and I'm going to come right along this lip right there. Do the same on this one. Just a little bit will do. Now, we'll take a little bit of grease, go right inside that caliper slider port, do the same on the other side. Moving along, we're going to grab this slider, put some lubricant on there as well. Something that's important to mention is getting up inside that lip right there. That's where the boot's gonna ride. Super important. Perfect. Go ahead and take your slider boot. Put it on just like this. Now, we're going to slide this right in. Give it a nice squeeze. And you want to make sure that the boot's sitting on the groove all the way around. That looks good. It's on the bracket. Pull it out, make sure it's on the slider as well. Work it in there nice, and do the same to the other side.
Now, let's move along to adding a little bit of grease right along these areas right here. Spread it out so it's a thin layer. Time for those new caliper tins. Go ahead and slide it in. Squeeze right in the center here. Make sure that the locking clips are up against the caliper bracket. Do the same on the other side. We can go ahead and mount our caliper bracket. Let's clean these bolt threads. With those bolts cleaned up with a little bit of new thread locker on there, let's put our bracket back in here. We'll start in the bolts, and then we'll torque them down to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 129 foot-pounds. It's gonna be time to install our brand new pads. You want one with the indicator and you want that one on the inside with the indicator facing up. Let me slide that right in.
This is the hardest part getting the tin. There we are. Perfect. Let's move along to prepping our caliper itself. You want to put a tiny bit of grease around the piston and then, of course, both of these ears. Caliper on here, put it right over those pads. Take your two bolts with a tiny bit of red thread locker, start them both in, and then we'll torque these to 20 foot-pounds. Let's quickly inspect what we did. Make sure everything's nice and tight. Make sure your flex hose isn't twisted. Now, let's get the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, get it down on the ground, and torque it to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. The next thing that you'd want to do is go ahead and pump up the brake pedal so it's nice and firm, and then come out here and check your brake fluid.
Tools used
