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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front control arm in this 2010 Buick Enclave, but this is basically the same process for this generation of GM SUVs the Enclave, Acadia, Outlook, and Traverse. We're going to show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. We do recommend you replace these in pairs, because usually whatever is wrong with one side, whether it's a ball joint or rust, is eventually going to happen to the other side. You're going to need new control arms from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 8-24 millimeter sockets and/or wrenches, 8 and 21 millimeter wrenches you will need, ratchets and extensions, large hammer, penetrating oil, torque wrench, and after this repair you will need a front end alignment done on your vehicle.
You're going to start by removing the front wheel. You're going to remove the cap if you have one. Then the lug nuts are 22 millimeter. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen up your lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle, and then remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Use penetrating oil on the stabilizer link where it hooks to the strut, and then an 18 millimeter wrench. You'll first loosen it up, use another wrench, hook it on there, or use a larger socket and ratchet. Loosen up the nut first, and then you'll want to put either an 8 millimeter wrench or an 8 millimeter ratchet, and if you turn the ratchet clockwise, it actually drives the stud out of the nut. The other thing you can do is you can use a set of locking pliers and hook them on the backside once you get it loosened up enough, and then remove the nut with your wrench. That's just another way to do it. Then put that stabilizer link to the side.
The control arm attaches at three different points: a nut on the front, 24 millimeter, a nut on top of the ball joint that's 21 millimeter, and then a bolt and nut, they're 21 millimeter, that hold the rear of the control arm into the frame. Use a socket and breaker-bar, or double wrench method, which is a 24 millimeter wrench, and then you hook another wrench onto it for extra leverage and loosen up that front nut, and once it gets loose you can use your regular ratchet, or just the wrench, and you can remove that nut all the way. On the back fastener you'll need a 21 millimeter wrench and either another 21 millimeter wrench or a 21 millimeter socket with a ratchet. It can help to have a deep socket in this case.
I was able to get by with a regular socket and just put the ratchet into it a little bit. Remove that nut, but leave the bolt in place. Then you're going to want to put some pressure up from underneath on the suspension. This will help hold the ball joint shaft into the steering knuckle. Mine actually broke loose fairly easily. Spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the top of that ball joint stud. 21 millimeter wrench, kind of hook it in under there. You will need a wrench to get under the CV joint, and once you get it loose it actually came loose pretty easily remove the nut most of the way, and then you'll want to break the control arm loose. Mine actually just comes loose as I lower down the control arm. You may have to give the steering knuckle a couple of hits with a hammer. I'll show you just how to hit it.
You can see that my control arm actually just comes loose, which I was actually kind of surprised about. If you should need to hit it with a hammer - see, it came loose right there with just a little tap of my hand. Hit the knuckle right there with the hammer while the control arm is hanging down, and you leave the nut on, just to keep things together. Now, I'm going to remove... there are two bolts that go through and they have nuts on top, I'm just loosening them up first. These are 18 millimeter, they hold the mount in place. I'm going to remove one of the bolts, and I'm going to loosen up the other bolt so that mount will swivel and allow me to get the control arm out. I remove one bolt and loosen up the other one.
In order to get that rear bolt out, you have to take your jack and jack up the stabilizer bar. Jack it up a little bit, make a little tap that bolt out some, raise it up a little bit more, and use a pry bar just to tap on that part. Raise it up a little bit more and take the nut off of the ball joint. I kind of take that nut off the ball joint, drop the control arm down, and then you can move the control arm around and take that bolt right out of there. Then you'll need to let your jack down out of the stabilizer bar to get the control arm out the rest of the way. Here you can see on the right the new control arm from 1AAuto. On the left is the rusted one that has a bad ball joint, and the control arm from 1A Auto's going to go in exactly the same.
When you go to reinstall, just take the shipping protectors off of the front shaft and off of the ball joint. Keep that nut in your hand and throw the protector away. Put the front shaft in first. Put the rear mount just kind of into place, and then get the ball joint up into place. You might have to push the ball joint just to angle it better. Push the ball joint up in the steering knuckle and then just thread the nut on there to hold it in place. Put your jack back under the stabilizer bar and raise it up and out of the way so you can get that bolt in. Then you use two screwdrivers, or you can use something a little bigger. There are slots in the mount, and you just move those. It would help to have another pair of hands. While one person puts the control arm into place, the other one can put the bolt in.
I was able to hold it well enough and get the bolt started it, and then you just kind of manipulate the control arm and tap it in with the hammer. Now, work that front mount bolt you put into place, and push it in there. I'd just kind of use a combination of pushing it up in there and threading it in, and then it goes in, and I put the bolt on the other side, or the nut on the other side. At this point, you can tighten those up, and you want to torque those to 70 foot pounds.
Now, you can put that 24 millimeter nut back in place. You let your stabilizer bar back down, put the 21 millimeter nut back on there, and, at this point, I'm just going to preliminarily tighten both of those. I'm going to torque them up a little bit later. Just get them on there so they're snug. Same thing with the 24 millimeter nut. Now, we're going to put pressure back up underneath the control arm. That holds that stud into place. I tap on the steering knuckle just to allow it to kind of get some pressure and seat itself, and then you want to tighten it to about 100 foot-pounds. I just kind of try and roughly do it with the 21 millimeter wrench and the other wrench for some extra torque.
The stabilizer link is back in place. Just make sure you get the ABS wire on the correct side of it. I put it back in place. I still have the locking pliers on there, so I just left them on there. Put the nut on, then tighten it up until the walking pliers start to get pitched, and you could have skipped this step and just done what I do next, which is just have your wrench, your 18 millimeter wrench on there using 8 millimeter socket and ratchet, and you actually drive the socket and ratchet counterclockwise, which pulls the stud through, and then tighten it up with the wrench. Make sure your harness is clipped back in place.
Next, we're going to torque those other two fasteners, so the vehicle is now on the ground. You can see the lift, and there's nothing holding up the front. What is holding up the front is I have my jack underneath the control arm, and the car's basically in a level position. Now I'm going to torque that front 24 millimeter nut to 120 to 130 foot pounds, and that rear one, 95 to 105 foot pounds, and notice I have the torque wrench on the nut end, and I was holding the other end with the wrench.
Now we can raise the vehicle back up, put the tire on, and then just thread the lug nuts on preliminarily. With the vehicle still in the air, you can just tighten the lug nuts up preliminarily. You're not tightening them up all the way here. Just so they're snug. Lower the vehicle back down. Torque the lug nuts to 110 foot pounds, and I use a crossing pattern. Torque one, go to the opposite one, and then go to the opposite one minus one, and the opposite one, and then I just go right around and check them. Then last, but not least, put the cap back on, and you will want to have a front end wheel alignment done after you've done this repair.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel, use a 22 millimeter socket. I'm gonna pull the wheel off. I'm gonna take this ball joint nut off. You can use a 21 millimeter wrench to loosen it up. And take that off. I'm gonna use a pickle fork to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. There's different types of tools that you can use. There we go. It's separated. I'm gonna take these two bolts out. There is nuts on the top. Use an 18 millimeter wrench, those on the nuts. And then use an 18 millimeter socket to take the bolts out.
Now to remove this bolt and nut, we're gonna have to loosen up the link for the sway bar. The sway bar is in the way right now, if we were to pull that bolt out. You can try to slide that out, but most likely it's gonna be in your way, so we have to take the link off on this side and on the opposite side. I'm just gonna use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take an 18 millimeter wrench and we can loosen up the nut. And this stud is gonna spin, so you wanna use an 8 millimeter socket, put it on the stud. You could try to loosen this up with an impact. But the stud is just gonna spin.
And take the nut off. Now you can take the stud out, just like that. With both of those links disconnected, then you can slide the whole sway bar up, and then you can access that bolt. And you can use a 21 millimeter socket and a 21 millimeter wrench on the nut. And loosen this up. You can slide the bolt up. Now just take a pry bar and just pry this out. There you go. Now take a 24 millimeter socket to take this nut off.
Then you can slide this bushing off. Now, you're gonna take that protector off and slide this bushing on. Now where this ring is, that goes towards the inside of the bushing. On this bushing it happens to have this blue area right here, the outside is white. Take the nut and just snug this up a little bit. We're gonna torque it later. And loosen it up a little. We want this to be able to move. I'm gonna take the new control arm and then just slide it in position. Take the ball joint, slide it into the knuckle. You can take the nut. Get that started. Now, get this bolt lined up, and put the nut on. Now, I'm gonna take these two bolts. Slide those through. Put the nut on top. Now, I'm gonna snug these down first. Use an 18 millimeter wrench up top, 18 millimeter socket down below.
Now, I'm gonna tighten these bolts to 55 foot pounds. Now, I'm gonna put a screw jack underneath the control arm and safely support the control arm. You wanna get the control arm as close to ride height as possible. It would be ideal if you could put the tire back on, put the vehicle down and then torque the nut here and torque the bolt here, but it's not that easy to get a torque wrench under there. So do the best you can to get this close. Then you can use a 13/16 wrench or a 21 millimeter wrench, 21 millimeter socket on the bolt and torque this to 111 foot pounds.
I'm gonna torque this nut to 144 foot pounds. Now we can use our wrench while this lower control arm is still supported, and tighten this nut up. And then once you get it tight, if you have the ability to put a torque wrench on there, you can torque that bolt, that nut to 30 foot pounds and then an additional 90 degrees. Now, I can lower this down, and slide that up, the sway bar up. Slide the link stud through this bracket on the strut, get the nut started and use an 18 millimeter wrench, 18 millimeter socket to tighten this up. And torque this nut to 59 foot pounds. I'm gonna put the tire on.
Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.
Now I'll go around again just to double check. Now when you've done this job, you're gonna need to bring the vehicle to a shop to have it aligned, otherwise you're gonna have premature tire wear.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front strut with an unloaded strut from 1AAuto.com on this 2010 Buick Enclave. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need is that new unloaded strut from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 8mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm, and 24mm socket and ratchet, 18mm wrench, torque wrench, spring compressors, a 13/16 spark plug socket, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off your hub cap and then remove these 22mm lug nuts. You want to just loosen them while the vehicle is on the ground and then raise the vehicle up and remove them the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull free.
Pry up the cap at the end of your wiper arm and then remove this 15mm nut. Then either using a wiper arm puller or just pushing it in and out and using penetrating oil and pulling it off, you want to remove the wiper arm, but a wiper puller helps. You just twist it. It pops it off the stud and you can pull it free. Then you just want to repeat the process on the other wiper arm.
Now you need to remove these four clips, and you can either use a pick and you just pry up the center of the clip and then pull the clip up and out, or you can use a flat blade screw driver, pry up the center, and then pry out the bottom. Remove this ground and pull it free. Then pry out this clip right here, and there's another one on the other side. You just need to pry them out of the body of the car, peel off this adhesive pad from the cowl panel, and do the same thing on the other side. Then pry up this clip right here on the driver's side of the cowl panel, and then pull up sharply on the cowl panel and it will release the clips. Then do the same thing for the other side. Then you want to just pull this up. Make sure all the clips have released and then pull the panel free.
Now you want to remove two of these three 15mm nuts, and then the last nut you just want to loosen most of the way. Use a flat blade screwdriver and pry out the clip that holds your brake line in place. Then an 18mm socket and ratchet you just want to get the bolt on the end of the stabilizer link to move. You have it moving. Then use an 18mm wrench and then an 8mm socket and ratchet. The 8mm socket and ratchet hold the stud into place while you remove them with the wrench.
You might have to a couple of times, spray some penetrating oil on, re-tighten the nut, and then loosen it back up. You can see, it just pulls right out. Now remove these two 24mm nuts, and you can loosen them up with a breaker bar, or you can use power tools. Once you get those nuts to a certain point, just put them back on just a little bit, and then pull this harness out of here. Just make sure you put the nuts on so they're flush with the bolts. Once you get them moving, then take the nuts off. All right, we've got the jack supporting the suspension just a little bit, so this comes up nice and loose. You want to make sure that your steering knuckle doesn't pull too far out. Remove the nut. Now we just wire tighten this right here so there's not too much stress on the axle or too much stress on the hose here.
Now with the strut out, you have to compress the spring. I've got my spring compressors. I'm just going to tighten those up. This is a large spark plug socket and it's got an insert in here to hold the spark plug up. I'm just going to take a 90-degree pick and pull that insert out so it's wide open. Put a 7/8 wrench on here and then there's a 9mm socket and I have an adapter on it to get it to 3/8. This socket is on here really tight, so I want to knock it off first.
Now you can just remove that nut and pull the top off with the spring and this pad. Take your new strut. Just loosen up the nut on the top and it will just pull out. Take this boot, transfer it over and transfer over this pad. Once you have that lined up, take the spring and lower it into place. Then the same way you got the previous nut off, you want to do that again to tighten this one back on. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that.
Before I tighten it up, I've just got my spring there, which it's in my cushion correctly. Make sure it's right there on the platform of the strut as well where it's supposed to be. Then, just to preliminarily aim, this should be facing towards the outside of the car, and then this stud here, the big one, should be towards the outboard part of the car. Once you line it up, tighten up the nut that holds the spring out of the strut, and then make sure it stays lined up as you loosen up your spring compressors.
Now feed the strut back up into place. You just want to push those studs through, replace one of the nuts preliminarily to just hold it there, and then line up the wheel knuckle into the strut. Then replace one of those bolts just to help hold it into place. Then replace the other bolt, and you can just hammer them in the rest of the way. Now just replace those two nuts. You can adjust your alignment, so you will need to have your vehicle aligned after you install these.
It looks like mine is pretty close to the middle. The top one is fixed, but the bottom one you can flex by pushing in or out on the knuckle. I'm actually just looking in behind. I can see a nice line where my old one was sitting. I'm just going to line it up there and then tighten it up preliminarily. I'm going to torque these to 120 foot-pounds.
Jack the strut up into place. I'm just going to put these 15mm nuts back on. I'll preliminarily tighten them, but we're going to torque them once the vehicle is back on the ground with the wheel on. Take the harness clip from your old strut and it just pulls out. Then you just push it into place in the new strut. Then re-clip the harness into that clip. Push this clip back into the lower part of the strut. Push the sway bar link back into place, and then just replace that nut and tighten it up.
Now you can replace the wheel, and then just replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily in a crossing pattern. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten these the rest of the way and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds, again in a crossing pattern.
Then you can just line up and hit your hub cap back into place. Now torque these three nuts up here to 45 foot-pounds. Pull out any clips that stayed behind in the vehicle and push them back into place in your cowl panel. Then feed the cowl panel back into place. Make sure it tucks back under, under the hood. Once you get everything lined up, just start pushing the clips back into place. Make sure that this adhesive cushion over here goes back up and over, and repeat the process on the other side.
Now replace those four clips. Just push in the lower part and then the center to lock them in. Replace the ground and tighten it back up. Make sure your weather strip is back in place, and then, for now, you can close the hood. Make sure these clips on either side of the cowl panel are back into the body of the vehicle. Push the wiper arm onto the stud. Make sure it's lined up where you want it and then replace that 15mm nut and tighten it up. Put the cover back on the end. Now just repeat the process with the other wiper arm.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm going to remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and then pull the wheel off. I'm just going to use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take this wire off right here. There's a little retainer there. You might need a pry tool to get that off. And then there's one on the side here. Take an 18-millimeter wrench, and you can loosen up the nut, and the stud is going to spin, so you want to use an 8-millimeter socket. Put it on the stud. You can try to loosen this up with an impact, but the stud is just going to spin. And take the nut off, then you can take the stud out, just like that. Take these two nuts off. Use a 24-millimeter socket. Now, we're going to take these bolts out. Just use a hammer and give it a tap. There we go. Do the same for the other one. There we go. Right. So that I don't put too much tension on the brake hose itself, I'm going to take this bracket off. Just use a 10-millimeter socket. Take this bolt out. And you don't want to bend this hose too much, but that'll give you a little slack. Then we can slide the knuckle out. Now, I've got to take the wiper arms off. I'm going to use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get underneath the clip right here. Take that nut off. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Take that off, and just grab the arm. Just rock it back and forth, slide it off. And you're going to do the same with the other arm.
Take this fuse box cover off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just push on the locks and slide them up out of the way, and then take this ground connection off. Just use a 15-millimeter wrench, loosen it up. And there's push clips along the front of the cowl. There should be a couple more on that side. Those are missing. Just use a straight blade screwdriver or a trim tool. Get underneath the clip and just slide those out. And then you're going to grab the cowl and just slide it over the stud right here, and then just try to raise up underneath. There's push pins holding it on. You can try to get underneath there with a trim tool, but normally, you can just pull it straight up, and then you can just pull it back there, and you can just raise it up out of the way. You don't necessarily have to take it out any further than that. I'm just going to put a little prop rod here. Just use a screwdriver or a trim tool. That works. And there's three nuts on the top. Just use a 15-millimeter socket. Take those off. When you get to the last one, you're going to have to support the strut underneath. All right. Now, I'm going to support from underneath. Get the last nut off and slide it down. Take these nuts off. Just keep one in your hand, then slide it in position. Then get the nuts started and then you can get the other ones started.
Now, we're just going to leave these on like this. We'll leave those loose. It's going to be easier to install it from down below, and then we'll tighten these up last. Then I'll take the knuckle and just line it up. You're going to have to pull it up a little bit and try to line the bolt up. There you go. Get the other one in. Just give it a little tap. You don't have to hammer it in all the way. And take the nuts. Get those started, and then we can tighten these down. Then we can torque these nuts to 144 foot-pounds. All right. Now, take the sway bar link and line it up. Get the nut on, and I'll use an 18-millimeter wrench to hold the stud, 18-millimeter socket. Tighten this up. Now, I'll torque this to 59 foot-pounds.
Now, the ABS wire, slide this in position right there and right there. Now, just take this brake hose bracket. Line this back up. Put this bolt on. If you felt uncomfortable taking this line off or this bracket off, you could always take the caliper off and hang the caliper on the strap assembly, and tighten this bolt down. Put the tire on. Now, I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now, I'll go around again. Just double-check. Now, we can tighten these down. Torque these nuts to 33 foot-pounds. All right. Now, I can take this cowl, and if any of these push pins came out down below, transfer them over and slide this back in position, and just line it up. And that looks good. You can take some of these push pins and then reinstall these. It should be four of them. And take that fuse box cover, put it back on. Now, I can reinstall the ground jumpstarting terminal, get that started, and just snug it up. That's good. Now, take the wiper arms and line them up. Try to put them back where they were. If you had to, you could mark them before you took them off, and put the nuts on. While holding the arm, tighten the nut down, snug it down, then put the cover on. Do the same for the other one.
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