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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and pull the wheel off. Now I'll take this axle nut off. Use a 34-millimeter socket. Take these two nuts off. Use a 24-millimeter socket. Now we're gonna take these bolts out. Just use a hammer and give it a tap. There we go. Do the same for the other one. There we go. All right. So that I don't put too much tension on the brake hose itself I'm gonna take this bracket off. Just use a 10-millimeter socket. Take this bolt out. And you don't want to bend this hose too much but that will give you a little slack.
Now we can slide the knuckle out. Now you can just take a punch and a hammer, just tap this in a little bit, and just slide this out, just like that. Now I'll take a pry bar and just go in between the axle and the mount over here near the engine, or part of the engine block, and just pry it out. Now, on the passenger side, you're not gonna have any fluid behind there. If you were doing this on the driver's side, you're gonna need to put a drain bucket, because you'll have some fluid come out, some transmission fluid. And just slide that out.
There's a spacer right here. Just take a small screwdriver, just get underneath that, and you just swap it over to the new part, and just slide it on like that. And take the axle, line it up and push it on. All right, that's all the way in. And then you slide this through the wheel bearing, through the knuckle. Might have to twist this a little bit. That's lined up. There we go.
Then I'll take the knuckle and just line it up. You're gonna have to pull it up a little bit and try to line the bolt up. There you go. Get the other one in. Just give it a little tap. You don't have to hammer it in all the way. Then take the nuts, get those started. And then we can tighten these down. Then we can torque these nuts to 144 foot-pounds. Now just take this brake hose bracket and line this back up. Put this bolt on.
If you felt uncomfortable taking this line off or this bracket off, you could always take the caliper off and hang the caliper on the strut assembly. And then tighten this bolt down and put the axle nut on. And then I'm gonna torque this to 173 foot-pounds. I'm gonna put the tire on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern, or a star pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now go around again. Just double-check.
Tools used
I'm going to remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and then pull the wheel off. Now, I'll take this axle nut off. Use a 34-millimeter socket. Now, I'm going to take this caliper off. I'm not replacing the brake, so I'm going to take the caliper and bracket off together. Take a 21-millimeter socket and a breaker bar and take these two bolts out. Take those out. I'm just going to take a screwdriver and just pry the piston in a little bit. That's good. We can slide this off, and just use a brake caliper hanger and just hang it on the strut assembly, on the coil spring. Now, I want to take this rotor off. There's a screw right here. Use a T30 socket. Take that off. That off, and take the rotor right off. Then take this wheel speed sensor off. Use a 10-millimeter socket. Take that bolt out. And you can use some pliers and try to wiggle this sensor out a little bit. Just be careful. Don't break it. There you go. Now, on the backside of the knuckle, there's three bolts. You're going to take a 13-millimeter socket and take those bolts out. All right. Take that out.
Now, from the backside of the hub, I'm just going to take a hammer and just tap it. You could try to use a sledge hammer, but sometimes it's easier just to use a hammer. There we go. And slide it off. You can take a wire brush. Just clean up some of this corrosion around the knuckle. That's why the hub was so difficult to remove. Clean that up. Make sure this spacer is on here on the axle. If it isn't there, just check your other hub. Maybe it got stuck to it. Now, I'm going to take a little bit of copper anti-seize and just do a thin coat, so if it ever has to be removed again, it won't be so difficult. Do a thin coat. Now, take this shield and the new hub, and just line it up like this, and take the bolts for the hub.
Go back in from the backside, get those started, and then torque those bolts to 89 foot-pounds. And take the wheel speed sensor, line that back up. Put the bolt in and snug it down. That's good. And take the rotor, put the rotor on, and take this screw. Put that screw back in and snug it up. All right. Now, grab the caliper. Take the hanger off. Now, we can slide it over the rotor and take the bolts. Get the bolts started. Then you can torque those two bolts to 129 foot-pounds, and put the axle nut on. And then I'm going to torque this to 173 foot-pounds and put the tire on. Now, I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now, I'll go around again. Just double-check.
Tools used
I'm gonna take these lug nuts off to take the wheel off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. ...wheel. Pull it off. Now I'm gonna take the caliper off with the bracket together, because I'm not replacing the brakes. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to take these bolts off the caliper bracket. There's two of them.
And we can slide the whole caliper and bracket off. You might have to twist this a little bit just to compress the piston. That's good. And now we'll just hang this. Use a brake caliper hanger, and just find a place to hang it from. Just hang it from the shock right here. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Looks good right there. Take this screw out. I'm gonna use a T30 socket. And take a hammer, if this rotor doesn't come off right away, if it's not loose, you can tap on these areas right there, and just be careful of the studs. And slide it out. There's a little bit of rust on here. I'm just gonna spray some rust penetrant. Let it soak for a minute.
Now, take a 34-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. The wheel speed sensor is located right here. There's a 10 millimeter bolt. Just take that bolt out. And pull that bolt out, and just grab the sensor. You might have to use some pliers and twist it. Pull it out, set it aside. And you need to remove these three bolts that are on the backside of the knuckle. Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take those bolts out.
I don't wanna ruin the threads on the end of the axle, so I'm just gonna use a punch and a hammer. Just give it a tap. Try to loosen up the axle from the hub. Now you can use a slide hammer. You can try hitting this with a hammer on the backside and trying to get it off, but sometimes a slide hammer is the only way to go. Just try to pull it off. Now, that didn't work for us. Today, this hub is stuck onto the knuckle a little bit too much. So what I'm gonna do is take these shoes off, so that I can get a hammer from the side, and hopefully that works a little bit better.
I'm gonna take these springs off. I'm just gonna use some needle nose pliers, some locking needle nose pliers, and just slide it out of the way. Take that off. Now I'm gonna take this adjuster out. You can use a screwdriver, pry the shoes out a little bit. We could adjust it down a little bit as well. And slide that out. And there's a bottom spring. You can use that same needle nose pliers, or locking pliers, and slide this spring out. There we go. And slide that spring out.
Now we'll take these springs out. You're gonna use a tool like this, and just push down, twist. You gotta hold the pin from the backside, and slide it out. Do the same on the other side. Take this shoe out. And slide it out. This pin is in my way, so I'll just slide this pin out and set it aside. Now I'm gonna use a hammer and just give it a couple of hits right here. There it goes. It's moving a little bit. Hit it from the other side. Be careful. You don't wanna mess up the threads. You could always put the nut on the end of it. There we go. And there it is.
I'm just gonna clean up this area right here. You can use a file or a wire brush. Get some of the corrosion. If you use a file, just don't go too deep. Don't file away the metal. Just clean it up. Gonna use some anti-seize so that if I ever have to take this hub off again, it's gonna be a little bit easier. Just gonna put a little on the splines of the axle. And just make sure you have the shield in the right position. Take a new hub, and line it up. And just push it on. And you're gonna get this all lined up, and then you can start one of the bolts from the backside. You can put a little thread locking compound on these bolts. There we go.
Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 96 foot-pounds. And put the axle nut on. I'm just gonna take a pry bar. I lowered the vehicle down, and this is gonna prevent the hub from spinning while I torque this. I'm gonna torque this nut to 151 foot-pounds. I'm gonna put these shoes back. I gonna take this pin. Put that pin back first. Take the spring, and just slide this in position. You have to push it on, and then twist it. That's why it really helps to have this tool. There you go. You just twist it, so that... The cover is slotted. And then once you go over the pin, then you turn it, and that should lock in place. Do the same on the other one. There we go. That one's on.
Before I put any of the springs on, I'm just gonna put the adjuster back in position. You might have to make some minor adjustments with it if you moved it at all. Now I'll take the bottom spring. Just try to line this up. And get one side started. Take my locking pliers, and just get the other side in. There we go. Just make sure that's all the way in. There we go. Now it's in. And it's in on that side. That's good. And put the top spring in. Start it on one side. But, here we go underneath here.
The adjuster's in the way. There we go. Just like that. And again, use the locking needle nose pliers. Slide that in position. This one's a little easier than the lower one. Just make sure you lock it in. Looks good there, and there. Perfect. Now we can take the wheel speed sensor and reposition that into the knuckle, and take the bolt, get the bolt started, and snug that up. That's good. Now, if you had any rust on the backside of the rotor, you're gonna wanna clean that up, either with a wire brush or a scuff pad. And line this up. You might have to adjust your parking brake shoes. Those are pretty good. You just want them dragging just a little bit. That feels seem good. And take that screw. Screw that screw back in. Just snug it up. I'm gonna take the caliper off the hanger, and just make sure the hose isn't twisted. Slide the pads over the rotor. There we go. And take the bolts. You can put a little thread lock adhesive on them.
Get those back in position. Now we can put the caliper bolts back in. You can put some thread locking compound on the bolts. And torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. There we go. And throw the wheel up. The lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds, in a cross pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And because we had the caliper off, it's always a good idea before you start the vehicle, just pump the brake pedal. That way, if there's any air gap, that takes away that air gap in between the brake pads and the rotor. That's good.
