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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ G-coated rotors have long-lasting rust prevention, perfect for wheels with large openings that expose the rotor and rotor hat during daily drives. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Electrostatic Coated Brake Rotor Features and Benefits
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same from the left side to the right side as well as model years 2006 through 2012. In order to replace your brakes you'll need new front brakes from 1A Auto; 19, 15, and 13mm sockets and socket wrench; a C-clamp or water pump pliers; a pry bar; and torque wrench.
By hand, use the 19mm socket to loosen the five lug nut covers. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, then you'll want to loosen the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Turn the wheel assembly outward so that you can get back behind the caliper. To check the wear on the brakes, look through the inspection window on the caliper. You see the outside and the inside pad. There's plenty of meat on those. Then check your rotor. Run your finger across it, feel for anything unusual and check for excessive rust.
There are two 13mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can see them there. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet. You could also even use a wrench to remove those. I'm using a long flat head screwdriver to pry between the caliper and the rotor. I'm actually in the rotor there in one of the vents pushing and pulling against it to push back in the two pistons that push the brake pad out so, that I've got some room to pull the caliper off and set it on top of the strut assembly out of the way. Go ahead and pull out your brake pads. Both the inner and the outer brake pads come out just by sliding them off the caliper guide. Once you've done that there are two steel slide springs. Take those off of the caliper guide. Set them aside. We're going to reuse those.
Locate the two 15mm bolts that hold the caliper guide to the spindle assembly and remove those. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I take those out. Go ahead and pull the caliper bracket off and your brake rotor.
Here's a shot of the new brake rotor and brake pads from 1A Auto. I'm going to clean the surface of the brake rotor to get any shipping oil to keep it from rusting while it's being shipped or staying in a box off with some brake clean and a rag. Do both sides. Then, moving on to the brake pads I'm going to apply some brake grease to the ends where they sit in the caliper slides. Now those steel caliper guide slides, I'm going to go ahead and clean those up with a wire brush.
I'm putting the new rotor onto the hub assembly. I'm going to install a lug nut temporarily just to keep the rotor from falling off. Install the caliper guide and the two15mm bolts that hold it on. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I do that. I'm going to go ahead and torque those to 75 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the cleaned up steel brake pad slides into the caliper bracket. Reinstall your brake pads putting the tabs in their slides and pushing them against the rotor. I'm using a C-clamp, as you can see here, and the old brake pad in between it, I'm tightening up on that c-clamp, to re-set the pistons. Once that's all set, remove it and you'll be able to put your caliper back on to the caliper guides. Reinstall the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I tighten those up. I'm torquing those to 30 foot-pounds.
I'm going to remove that lug nut that I had on there just to hold the rotor in place and then I'm going to go and reinstall the wheel and those five lug nuts. Torque the five lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Line up the notch in your hub cap to the valve stem on your tire and wheel and then reinstall your hub cap and tighten down the five lug nut covers with your 19mm socket by hand.
Last, but not least, always make sure you get in and pump the brake pedal a bunch of times. Make sure you get a nice firm pedal before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
