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Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
Before you do the job you have to take off the wheel. To do that we need to get a 22 millimeter socket and usually a half inch breaker bar, or you could use the lug wrench that comes with the vehicle. We'll just crack these loose before we jack up the vehicle, and that will make it easier to take the wheel off in a few minutes. Now you want to raise and support your vehicle. You can definitely use a jack and jack stands in a driveway. To make it a little easier to film, we're going to be using a vehicle lift. Make sure you use the proper spots on the vehicle to jack it up which we have another video for.
Now we will take the rest of the lug nuts off. We already loosened them while they were on the ground, so this step is really easy. Once the lug nuts are off, you can lift the wheel off the car. You're going to want to take out the two bolts that hold on the caliper. They hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. They're right here and right here and they're 14 millimeter. We'll start by putting a 14 millimeter wrench on the top one and cracking it loose. This one is actually coming out by hand, which is terrific. Sometimes they're a little stuck in there but not in this case. Let me go to this one. This one's coming out too so we're in good shape today.
What I like to do next is grab the caliper and kind of squeeze it, and by doing that it gets the caliper nice and loose and you can just pop it right off. At that point you want to set the caliper aside, make sure that it does not hang from the hose because you'll cause damage to the hose and potentially even the caliper.
These are your brake pads. These ones are actually worn out quite, quite well, and they're also stuck in the caliper bracket, which is not ideal. You can see this is the brake pad and this is the kind of the wear groove. Normally this should be about two or three times this thickness. We'll be able to compare them when we get the new brake pads out, but this is approaching the end of its life.
Now we'll do the inside one. There's the inside one. You can see this is the squeaker. This is the thing that makes the noise. If you're not pushing your brakes and you're driving around town and it's squeaking, this is the little device that does it.
Now we want to remove the brake caliper bracket from the knuckle. We'll put a 15 millimeter onto the upper bolt and we'll crack that loose. We'll do the same thing with the bottom one. Now you could use a wrench or a socket for this, either one will work. The sock is probably a little bit faster, but I have a wrench in my hand and they say the closest tool is the best tool so we'll go with it. There's one bolt. All right, now you can pull the caliper bracket right off.
Now we want to take off the rotor. One thing worth noting is you don't want your parking brake to be on if you're trying to remove the rotor because the parking brake is going to hold the rotor onto the car. So first make sure your parking brake is off. Second we're going to take a T30 Torx bit on a three Ace ratchet, looks like a star, and we're going to put it right here. Now a lot of the time these things are really tight, so what I like to do is I'll take a wrench and go like this and that'll hold the rotor in place. Sometimes it's better if you have a friend doing this and then you can go like this.
The bolt is actually coming loose really easily in this case, but a lot of the times these things are stuck really tight, so normally what would happen is you turn this and the rotor will turn with it and you won't be able to loosen it. So having a wrench like this to hold the rotor still is sort of a trick to get around that. Now we'll spin this thing out.
In New England when you get one of these out it's almost a miracle because they almost always have to be drilled out. It looks like the rotor is going to be stuck on. So now we're going to put some rust penetrant around here and around the lug nuts, and we'll try and get this rotor off. Get the rust penetrant in there. Make sure you rotate it around. All right, this is where the job starts to get fun because you get to use hammers, and what you're going to want to do is hammer right in between all of these lug nuts until the rotor comes loose. It's basically just stuck around this hub. It's a really common thing to happen. If you whack it around here, then it'll come loose. The one thing you have to watch out for is hitting these threads. You don't want to hit those because then you have to replace the lug nut, the actual lug, or you have to re-thread them, which is also a pain .There we go. With that loose, you can pull the rotor off.
Here we have the old rotor and the old pads versus the new rotor and the new pads. You can see the rotors are identical. The little rubber plug for adjusting the parking brake. Switch is right over to the new rotor. It's got the spot for the factory bolt. It's obviously the same bolt pattern. As far as the brake caliper or the brake pads go, you can see new ones have the squeaker, just like the old ones, and you can see how much of a difference there is between the old pads worn out and the new pads and how much is left on this. As you can see, they will look and fit and function just like the original ones, except a whole lot better because these ones are completely smoked.
Okay, now we're going to install the brake rotor. You want to line up this hole with this taper hole right here and set it into place just like that. Now you can take your Torx head bolt and get it started by hand, and you want to tighten it up. This is one of those times where the rotor is starting to spin, so you'll want to hold it with one hand and tighten it with another. Right here is the rubber cap that blocks the hole that gives you access to the parking brake adjuster.
You want to adjust the parking brake by putting a flat tip screwdriver into the hole with it just about at 12 o'clock. At that point you can spin the adjuster wheel up, so you want to start off with it down and lift up and do it a couple times just like this, and then spin the rotor by hand, and you want to just barely hear it touching, hear the parking brake shoes touch the rotor. We'll do it a little bit more. As you adjust it, you want to give it like a turn or two and then turn the rotor, and as soon as you hear the brake, the parking brake shoes touch the rotor—that's when you want to stop, because that's when they're just about, they're just about out enough to actually work really well. At this point I can hear the shoes touching the rotor but the rotor still spins freely so now I can pull or I can put the rubber plug right back in the hole. That protects it from water intrusion and it'll slow down the rust that goes on inside there.
You can see that there's some greasy palm prints all around this along with a little bit of anti-seize. We're going to go ahead and spray that off with some brake cleaner, and that way when the new pads and the new rotors go together for the first time, it'll be a nice clean environment for them and there won't be any grease or other material messing up the brakes. Then be sure to do the back side as well.
Now we want to clean the caliper bracket because you want your brake pads to be able to move freely within the bracket. This one is kind of dirty so we're going to clean it up as best we can. We're going to be using a parts washing tank because it makes the job a little bit easier, but you can easily just use brake clean and a scrub brush. Really you can use a variety of things. You could probably use dish soap if you really wanted to, but break clean works ideal for this, and so does the parts washing tank. We're going to use the parts washing tank and a scrub brush to try and get all the debris off of the caliper bracket slides.
Before you put your caliper bracket back on the knuckle, you want to make sure that these slides will move freely in and out. If they're stuck in anyway, then you want to pull them out, clean them really well, add a thin coat of grease, and then put them back together again. Sometimes if you put too much brake or if you put too much grease in here, it will actually create a hydraulic effect where it'll always want to push the thing out. You don't want that to happen. So you always, always want to use a very, very thin coat of grease whenever you're greasing these slides. Ours are actually in really good shape and they slide perfectly so we're going to leave them as is and just mount the caliper bracket back on the car.
You'll want to reinstall your two caliper bracket bolts and hand tighten them first, and then you can go back with your wrench or your ratchet and snug them up. Now we're going to use our torque wrench to torque these two bolts to 92 foot-pounds. Now we're going to put a little bit of anti-seize on the caliper slides. You don't want to get any on the rotor itself because it will obviously affect your braking. Now we'll slide the rear brake pad in or the back one. Then we'll do the front one.
Now we need to compress the piston back into the caliper. You can use a block of wood for this with a c-clamp. Sometimes the c-clamp by itself will work just fine, so we'll go ahead and compress that piston. All right, now we'll remove the caliper or the clamp I should say and we should be able to slide this right onto the brake caliper bracket. Now we can reinstall our two 14 millimeter bolts and we'll torque these to 20 foot-pounds.
We're now at a point where we can put the wheel back on and we'll loosely install all of the lug nuts by hand. With the vehicle back on the ground you can torque the lug nuts to 125 foot-pounds. Make sure you do it in a star pattern.
The last thing you want to do is get in the vehicle and pump the brakes a few times. That way the brake fluid goes out to the calipers and pressurizes the whole system and now you'll feel a nice firm pedal and you're safe to start the vehicle.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi there. This is Sue from 1A Auto. Today we're going to do rear brakes on a 2012 Equinox. We're going to take a 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar and we're going to break the lug nuts off the wheel. Now with your vehicle up in the air or supported with jack stands, you remove the lug nuts.
Now I'm going to break free the caliper from the caliper bracket by removing these caliper slider bolts. This is a 14 millimeter wrench. Now in this particular 2012 Equinox it has ABS in it. When dealing with ABS on a brake service, you have to push the piston back with the bleeder screw open to avoid any ABS module damage. This is a 10 millimeter wrench. I'm going to put it on the bleeder screw, give it a quick snap. There we go. I like to turn it just about a half a turn. We're all set there. Use a catch basin to catch your brake fluid. Screwdriver or pry bar, slide this caliper right up.
I use a pair of welders clamps that I like to put inside the piston and I just give it a slight squeeze, till that piston bottoms out. This also gives me a chance to do a quick visual on the caliper piston boot. I'm looking for any tears or leakage. If you were to find them, you would have to replace the caliper. And this also is a good way to test the caliper, to make sure that it's not a seized caliper piston. Once closed, I re-tighten the bleeder screw. Release the clamps.
On this Equinox we have no place to hang the caliper to put no strain on the flex hose, so we'll just set it aside, right there on that upper control. Now it's time to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle. This is a 15 millimeter wrench.
I use a pry bar especially when the bracket is frozen a little on there. Work it back and forth. Now with our caliper bracket on our bench I'm going to hammer out the pads. Noting once again the indicator goes on the inside of the bracket. Set it in a special order. Now I'm going to clean up the caliper bracket and sliders.
Now we're going to remove the rear rotor. This Equinox 2012 has a little mounting bolt. It's a Torx head T30. Make sure you set it aside. It's going to get reused. When removing the rotor from the hub, I like to use a penetrating spray right around where the hub hat meets. Let that sit in for a little bit. Then we'll hammer it off.
Here on this 2012 Equinox we're going to compare the old to the new and what to look for. This is the outer pad and wear right down there, right past three millimeter, so that's probably right around 1/32 in, one millimeter. You can see the rust that forms on the hubs and the inner well on that ring. Here's your new product from 1A Auto, Nakamoto, nice clean fins cooling down, same size hub, same weight distribution. OE fit.
Quick note on these rear brakes. You're going to see a rubber boot on some manufacturers. That is an indicator window for the ebrake shoes, the emergency brake shoes right on the inside of this hat. So we're going to make sure we take the old one out and transfer it over. I use that with a small screwdriver or a pry bar. You pull it right out. I relocate it right away. That way I don't lose it. Just give it a little push down in. There it is.
First thing I like to do is take a wire brush to clean the surface rust off. Use a little brake and parts clean. Then I'm going to clean the caliper tin. You can also buy brand-new caliper tins and caliper slider boots on 1A Auto. That's if you don't feel like cleaning them. If it's not in the budget, let's just do it right. You want to clean all the rust off and any dirt so the pads have a nice sliding surface. Going to do the same thing to the other side.
Now I'm going to take the caliper slider boot out. Just basically you pinch down on the rubber slot boot and pull the slider out. That's old manufacturer grease so I'm going to clean that off. You always want to apply brake caliper grease, nice thin coat to the slider. I like to put caliper grease on the inside of the boot. That keeps it flexible and I also get to check for any holes. You don't want any pin holes or rips on these boots because then water will get into the pin and seize it up from sliding.
Before I put the caliper tin back on, I put a little bit of that caliper grease underneath. This assures it not to get rusty and swell up and push that pad on tight and freeze it on the bracket. You do not want to put any grease on the upside for it will collect road dirt in the pad, dust and stop that pad from sliding back and forth. Now I'm going to do the same thing to the other side.
While I have the brakes off of my 2012 Equinox, I'm going to give it a quick visual on the emergency brake shoes. We're looking for any chips. Sometimes the bonding comes unglued and the shoe actually comes off the metal backing. At that point they'd have to be replaced. But here we get great shape, so I'll just clean them down with some brake parts cleaner, get rid of the old brake dust that stores in there. I'm also going to give ... This hub is nice and clean, but I'm just going to give it a quick, quick wire brush, just to get any surface rust off. I like to apply a thin coat of anti-seize, especially around the hub where it meets the rotor. It'll stop any rust buildup in the future. Just needs a nice thin coat.
I'm going to put the rotor on backwards for a second. So that way I can have it held without bothering anyone and clean off the clear lubricant coat that they put on for packaging. Then I'll just spin it around and do the same on the other side. I'm going to line up the mounting hole with the screw hole.
Here I have my mounting screw, torx T30. Make sure I start it in straight, and then just going to snug it up once it reaches the bottom. Before I mount the caliper bracket on the knuckle, I'm going to clean the old thread lock off the threads and apply a light coat of new thread lock. Just a light little dab and it'll go through all the threads all the way around. Set that aside and do the same to the other.
Now we're going to install the rear caliper bracket on the rear brakes of this 2012 Equinox. Slide it right in there. Grab the mounting bolt. Start it by hand. The head of this bolt is a 15 millimeter. I'm just going to snug it because the torque for these caliper mounting bolts are 92 foot-pounds.
Now we're going to install the pads. The one with the indicator goes on the rear inner edge. Slides right in. Line the ears up. Drop it down in. There you go. Now I'm going to place the caliper down. Once we have already pushed that piston back, let's slide right over. Now we're going to install the caliper bolts on the sliders. The torque on these is 20 foot-pounds.
Now that we have the rear brakes all together, caliper mounted on this 2012 Equinox because we had open the bleeder screw to push the caliper piston back, we're just going to gravity bleed it. No need to touch the brake pedal at all. We're just going to watch, make sure fluid flows out, no air bubbles. See the little air bubbles forming at the top there. We just want those to naturally fall right out. Once it's snug, bottomed out, just give it a nice half a turn. Use brake parts cleaner to clean it up. Put the cap back on and we're ready to go.
Now we're ready to put the wheel back on, the rear of this 2012 Equinox. We're going to lower it down just like you would at home with the floor jack, just letting it touch the ground enough to tighten these to the torque specs, 140 foot-pounds, and then you lower the jack the rest of the way. Now we're going to torque the wheel lug nuts in a star sequence. Once your brake job is completed and you've topped off the brake fluid, it's always a great idea to pump your brake pedal up before you start the vehicle or try to drive it.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
BKA11738
