2006-08 Dodge Ram 1500 Front 4 Piece Drivetrain Kit TRQ CSA64064

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly; that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2004 Dodge Ram. This is a four-wheel drive truck, same as most 02 to 08 vehicles this generation. Tools you'll need: Various both standard and metric sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, and a pipe for some leverage, (the bolts for the hub are quite tight usually), sledge hammer if you have some problem with your rotors, a large screwdriver, small pry bar, wire brush, large C-clamp, penetrating oil, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.

First you want to remove your wheel. If you're just using hand tools, start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise it, secure it with jack stands and then remove the wheel. I've got air tools; I'm going to use them. These are either 7/8 or 22 millimeter; both will work. The next step, you may want to loosen your brake fluid cap a little. Okay, in the interest of keeping this video a little bit on the short side, I'm going to just kind of go through taking the brakes apart in 3x speed. You can probably gain enough here if you don't quite know how to get them apart or if you want to see this part of the video in real time, just check out our other videos for the Dodge Ram front brakes. Again, like I said, you can probably get enough to understand how to get the brakes apart just from this. Enjoy it even though it's a little quicker and then we'll get to the hub.

Now you're going to want to remove the axle. You want to remove the hub nut, which is a 35-millimeter bolt. If you're using hand tools, you will need to do this before you take the tire off. Lift the car up, take the center cap off, take the lug nuts off, take the center cap off, put the lug nuts back on, put the car back down, and then while it's on the ground use your hand tools to loosen up the nut. Then you can lift the car up. I'm just going to use my impact wrench and it helps me to zip the nut right off.

Now you want to separate the axle from the hub. You just want to use a hammer and give it one good hit. That'll tell you if the axle is free from the hub. You just hit it once and watch it really close and the axle should go right in. You won't need an axle pole or anything if that happens. You see I hit it and the axle goes in so I'm all set. Now what you want to do is get a pry bar and go way up like that. Pull your axle right off like that and your axle's out. Okay, now with the axle out there's three 18-millimeter bolts. You see one right down there, one up here, and there's one over here you can barely see. Before you actually take those bolts out, you want to disconnect your ABS sensor if you're vehicle has ABS. The connection is up there. Pull the clip out of the fender. There's a little tab that you have to press with your thumb and then disconnect it and pull it free from all the clamps that hold it to the brake hose and stuff.

We are going to use our 18-millimeter socket. Okay. Actually I'm going to loosen this. Again, be controlled with your pole. Use my pipe here. More leverage. Okay, these bolts are very tight. They also have a Loctite on them so just the combination of your 18-millimeter socket, your ratchet handle or a breaker bar, and a piece of pipe for some leverage and can get them loose. Once you have the bolts out you can actually cut them out pretty easy. Okay, wire brush. Clean everything up here a little bit. You want to feed your harness through and then the harness up, over like that, put your hub in. Prepare your bolts. Feed it through the top hole and do your best. Get the backing complete on there and then start into the hub.

Just make sure our harness is out of the way. I'm just going to use my impact wrench and just tighten this top one up a little bit. I'm not going to tighten it up. I'm just going to get it in there. Make sure it's nice and secure. Okay, I'm going to start my other two bolts and this should still be loose and moving around. I'm just going to fast forward here as I start the other two bolts and then I'll hook up my harness. Make sure you put it back into all the little grommets and clips that hold it in place so it doesn't chafe against anything. Then reconnect it and then I'll preliminarily tighten up all the bolts. The next thing you see me doing is torquing the bolts.

Now I'm going to use the torque wrench to get the top one. For the top one if you use a nice, long extension like that, loop it through from the back. Torque them to 100 foot pounds. Okay, we'll just fast forward again as I torque up the other two bolts. Now we're just going to take our axle. Put it right up in here, feed it into the hub. Turn it a little bit so you know where to push it with the hub. Push it right in. Now I'm going to take my hub nut and using my impact wrench just to get it on there, not really to tighten all the way up yet. Okay, now I'm going to grab hold of my CV joint on the inside. You go up on the top, pull your joint in as much as you can. Going on to the axle and then push it all the way on. Make sure it fits on there.

Okay, just in the interest of making this video a little bit on the shorter side, I'm just going to fast forward through putting your brakes back together. If you'd like to see this video or this part of the video in regular speed just check out our other videos for the Dodge Ram front brakes and you can see this whole part of the repair being done in regular speed. Now with everything back together, put your wheel back on. Don't put the center cap back on. Thread your lug nuts on there, and then just preliminarily tighten them up and then lower your vehicle down. Your hub nut, 185 foot pounds; my poor torque wrench only goes up to 150, so there's 150 and 25. Okay now raise the vehicle back up, take the lug nuts off, put the center cap back on, and preliminarily tighten up the lug nuts. Let the vehicle back down and torque the lug nuts to a 120 foot pounds using a star pattern. Very important, you've had your brakes apart so make sure before you drive the vehicle, pump your brakes a bunch of times, make sure the brakes are working correctly.

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Okay, friends. To get started on this job, the first thing we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle with the suspension hanging. Remove all five of your lug nuts and take the wheel off. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a nice, clear view of our caliper. Let's remove the two caliper bracket mounting bolts. Remove your caliper. Now we're gonna set it aside so it's not putting any pressure on our flex hose. Get the rotor off of here. Time to separate our outer tie rod end from our knuckle. If you have a cotter pin, just go ahead and get it out of there, and then we're gonna remove the nut. Separate the tie rod from the knuckle. Now let's separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle up here by removing this nut. Put that nut on just a couple threads. Give this a couple loving bonks till it separates. Pull down. Remove your nut. There it is. ...your axle nut. Now it's gonna be time to separate the axle from the wheel bearing. Use a nice punch right here. Working on the lower ball joint, if you have a cotter pin, go ahead and get that out of the way. Let's remove the lower ball joint nut. Just keep in mind that there's gonna be nothing holding the knuckle in. Start this nut on a couple threads for safety. Now we'll continue on with our hammer. We're gonna give this a couple loving bonks to break it free. Lift up on your knuckle. Remove the nut.

At this point, what we're gonna need to do is remove the knuckle. You have to keep in mind that the axle is still going through the bearing, and the lower ball joint's going through the knuckle, so just kind of maneuver it in a such way that it will come right out. Now, the next thing we wanna talk about is whether you're replacing the axle separately, or the axle with the intermediate shaft, which is more than likely what you're gonna have to do. Theoretically, what you could try to do at this point is to tap on the axle and drive it away from the vehicle, and hopefully, it'll separate from the intermediate shaft. Typically it doesn't, and you have to replace the intermediate shaft at the same time, which is what we're doing in our video today.

Let's go ahead and spray down the area. Now we're gonna remove our mounting bolts that hold this plate to the differential itself. The second bolt is gonna be directly diagonal from it. The next thing we need to do is separate this sealed area from the differential. So, just try to grab a little corner. Put a couple loving bonks. Try to grab anywhere you can. Okay. There we are. Let's go ahead and pull this out of here. There it is, friends. The next thing we need to do is clean up this area along here where the seal's gonna ride. Use a nice razor blade, and just scrape it right off. That's looking pretty good. Now looking inside of this area, you can see this little cone. We kinda wanna grab onto that. This is your bearing race. We'll pull it right out of there, and we're gonna take that for recycling.

Now let's take our rag, clean out this area where the race just came from. Make sure that you don't have any debris inside there. Make sure that everything's nice and clean along here. Let's move along. So now, we're just gonna get this seal ready here. Just take a little bit of petroleum jelly and go along this inner ring right here, where you can see where that spring is. That's just to kinda hold it in while we mount this. Let's go ahead and put in our brand new bearing race here. Should slide right in, then bottom out. So now, it's gonna be time to coat this bearing. We wanna make sure we do that with some 75-90 gear oil. That's also what we're gonna be using to check and fill the differential in the end. Just get it on all those bearings. Work it around. That feels really good. Just gonna get some along this little cog right here. Nice. Now we're just gonna bring this up. Slide it right in here. Something to pay quick attention to is this little metal ring. It needs to be on the bearing when you put this in. So just go ahead and slide it in. Make sure you've got that metal ring as well. Now let's get the seal on there. Let's go ahead and clean the threads on our bolts. Now we're gonna go ahead and put our seal up on here. Line up those bolt holes.

The next thing we wanna do is take those bolts that we just cleaned, put a little bit of RTV on them, and then we're just gonna start them into their corresponding holes. Now I'm just gonna take a nice metal cup, something that can go over like this. I'm gonna give it a couple loving bonks until the seal is nice and flush up against here. So, what you're gonna find, as you try to push this in, is that the seal tends to wanna rock. If you're hitting on this side, it's gonna kinda pop out on this side, and vice versa. So what you can try to do is just try to snug up these bolts a little bit, and then give it a couple more loving bonks, and then just keep tightening them as you go. So, I have this pretty much bottomed out at this point. I'll bottom these out, and then we're gonna torque them to manufacturer specification. Torque them to 21 foot-pounds.

Now it's gonna be time to install our axle. I like to put a little bit of copper Never-Seez in there. Put your axle on the splines of the stub shaft there. We're just gonna give it a couple loving bonks on the end here, with a nice rubber mallet. Make sure it's locked in. Move along. Now it's gonna be important to make sure you check your front differential fluid. Feeling along the differential cover, you're gonna find a nice rubber plug. Go ahead and clean off around the area, to make sure no dirt or debris can fall into your differential. Get underneath here. Pop it out of the way. To check your differential fluid, you can use a gloved finger. Just come in, bring it down at a little bit of an angle, and make sure you get a teeny bit of fluid. This looks like it's perfectly full. If you need to fill it, use 75-90 gear oil. That back in. Clean up our mess.

A little bit of copper Never-Seez on your splines of your axle. Now let's get our knuckle back on here. Washer there. Now we're gonna start in our upper ball joint. I like to use a nice bar so I can pull down on it. Let's go ahead and snug up this lower ball joint. Now let's torque this to 38 foot-pounds. So now, you just wanna make sure that the slot lines up with your hole in your ball joint. If it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the next one does. Let's go ahead and put in our locking cotter pin here. Let's torque this to 40 foot-pounds. Now the next thing we're gonna wanna do is get our rotor on here, but before you do that, you need to make sure you clean up your hub, and, of course, clean up the back of your rotor braking surface. We have a new bearing and a new rotor, so I don't have anything to clean here. I'm just gonna go ahead and put it on there. I'm gonna start on a lug nut so that this can't flop around, and we'll continue.

Now it's gonna be time to get our caliper on here. Let's go ahead and slide that right over the rotor. Start in both of your bolts. It's always a good idea to use a little bit of threadlocker. Let's go ahead and snug these up. Torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Let's get our outer tire rod end on here. We'll start the nut, then we'll torque it to 45 foot-pounds. Torque this to 45 foot-pounds. After that, go ahead and put in your cotter pin. Lock it down. Let's put a little bit of red threadlocker on the axle threads, and then put on our axle nut. We'll just bottom this out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications.

Now it's gonna be time to torque your axle nut. You wanna do that while the vehicle is close to the ground. Have a bar going across the studs and down like this. That's gonna prevent it from spinning. Torque the axle nut to 185 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get the wheel up on here. Your little cover. Start on all your lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Okay, friends. So, now all that's left to do is go ahead and pump up that brake pedal, take it for a road test, and make sure your four-wheel drive works as it should.

Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle so that the suspension is hanging. The best way to do that is right underneath the frame. Once you've done that, remove all five lug nuts and remove the wheel. Now I'm going to take a nice pry bar, and I'm going to come in between the caliber and the rotor itself and just try to push in the pistons a tiny bit. Perfect.

Now we're going to take the caliber off. We want to make sure we don't put a tug on our flex hose when the knuckle comes down. It's good to have something hanging off the frame so you can hang the caliber once it's off. There we are. Go ahead and set that so it's going to be safe.

Let's get the rotor off of here. So we're going to take off our tire rod and nut here. So just go ahead and bend out that little clip. Remove the nut. I like to leave it on a couple threads. Now we're going to bonk right along here to separate the tire rod from the knuckle. Set this up here.

Now let's go ahead and take off our axle nut using a 36-millimeter socket. Now you just want to make sure the axle can move in and out of the wheel bearing. If it can't, you can, of course, put the nut back on a few good threads. Give it a couple of loving bonks until it does.

Now looking at the backside of the knuckle, along where the axle connects into it, you're going to see three mounting bolts for the wheel bearing itself. There's one here, one on top, and then one towards the front. Remove all three. There's one. Okay. Let's go ahead and pull those bolts out. There we are. Now we can come up here and grab this bearing. There it is, friends.

Now that the bearing is off, there's something that we need to pay attention to, and that's all the corrosion that's along the area right here. You need to scrape that off. You don't want anything left on there. Using a scraper, or a chisel, or whatever you have, maybe even a nice brush, get inside there, and that's going to be great. Clean it down. The copper Never-Seez.

Now let's go ahead and get our new wheel bearing up onto here. Okay. Start in all three bolts. I like to use a tiny bit of red Threadlocker. Now that we have all three of them started in, let's go ahead and snug them up. Let's go ahead and torque these bolts to 122-foot pounds. Let's get the tire rod stud back in here. Put on our nut. Snug it up. Let's go ahead and torque this to 45-foot pounds. Once again, we need to continue on to make sure that it's lined up. It looks like it could go a little further. Put a cotter pin in there. Make sure you peen it over. Make sure you clean up the backside of your rotor where the mating surface is. Let's apply a little bit of copper Never-Seez on the bearing. Go ahead and put your rotor up on there. And we're going to grab the caliber, start it on there as well. Use a little red Threadlocker if you're not going to be replacing your nut, but it is recommended to replace the nut. Now we're going to need to torque down the nut. To do that, you can either put the wheel on without the center cover and then torque the nut, or you can just use a nice, long bar, come across the studs like this, lock it in, and torque it. Now let's torque it to 185.

Let's go ahead and start the caliper on there. There we are. Start in both of your bolts. It's a good idea to use a little bit of Threadlocker on these. Okay, let's bottom these out. Now let's torque these to 138-foot pounds.

Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. We're going to snug up the lug nuts, and we'll torque it to 130-foot pounds. Torqued. We're just going to go ahead and pump up that brake pedal. That feels good.

Okay. So now, at this point, what you want to do is take it for a road test, and of course, get it down to your local alignment shop.

Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. We're going to remove all of our lug nuts, and take the wheel off. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a nice, clear view of our caliper. We need to remove our two mounting bolts here, and then we're going to hang the caliper out of the way on something such as maybe a bungee cord. Grab that caliper. Now we'll just hang it out of the way, like I said.

Get the rotor off of here. Now let's go ahead and remove our axle nut here. Let's spray this area, and give the axle a couple bonks to break it free. Now it's going to be time to get our ABS wire disconnected. If you follow it up to the wheel well, you can see the little white tab. Let's go ahead and pull that out of there. Now, looking at it, you can see a red tab. That's a lock. Let's go ahead and pull up on that lock, and then press in on this black piece, so we can release this. I always like to take a peek, make sure everything looks good. Now let's grab our ABS wire, and we're going to start taking it down to the knuckle. Okay. Wrap this up so it can't get damaged.

Now it's going to be time to remove our outer tie rod end from the knuckle. Let's go ahead and remove our locking clip here. Now let's give the knuckle a couple loving bonks until this breaks free. There we are. Set that aside. Let's remove our upper ball joint nut from the knuckle. Start that nut back on there a couple good threads. Now we're going to give this a couple loving bonks to separate the two. Remove our lower ball joint nut from the knuckle. Put that back on just a couple threads. Now we're going to give this a couple loving bonks to break it free as well.

Okay. So now we're just going to kind of pull this out and then down. We need to remove the axle from the knuckle at the same time as the lower ball joint. Now we need to get the axle out of our front differential. You're going to notice it's stuck in there because it has a locking clip. So if you just give it a couple loving bonks, you should be able to break it free. There it is, friends.

So, now that we have our axle assembly out of here, you might notice that it looks different than the new axle assembly. The reason for that is because this shaft right here is actually a pressed-in shaft. So, essentially, you would just kind of take this, you'd slide it in there, bonk it in, and then you have this same exact axle here. The problem is that these get stuck inside there, so it's best to just go ahead and replace this unit at the same time.

Okay, so, it's time to prep our brand new axle here. And what I mean by that is we're just going to take a little bit of lubricant, we're going to come inside these threaded areas. That's going to help keep the moisture away. Go ahead and put a bunch in there. That feels good, inside all those splines. Beautiful.

Now we're going to take our insert piece here, and you're going to notice that one side is shorter, the shanked area, and it also has a little rubber, okay? This is a gasket, and it's supposed to help keep moisture out, so that's going to go up against the axle. Put it in just like this. I've got this on a nice piece of wood so it can't be damaged, and I'm going to use a rubber mallet, and we're just going to bonk this in till it locks in. There it is right there. Give it a nice tug, make sure it's completely secured all the way around, nice and level.

So, before we go ahead and put the axle in there, something that's important to think about is your seal right there. It's always a great idea to go ahead and replace it. For the purpose of this video, we're not necessarily going to do that. So, of course, I'm just going to inspect it, make sure it's not torn or worn in any way. This one looks decent, so let's go ahead and put this up in there. Carefully slide it in.

You should feel it want to line up with the splines inside the front differential. There it is. Okay. So that just went in a little bit. Just going to give it a couple loving bonks here with my rubber mallet. Give it a nice tug. It's definitely locked in. Let's move along.

Next, let's use a tiny bit of copper never-seize and go along the splines of the axle, but beware of the actual threaded area. Now it's going to be time to get our knuckle back up on here. We're going to go over the axle, start sliding the splines into this area here, and then of course, we need to be doing the lower ball joint at the same time. So just kind of line up the two so they are both trying to go at the same time. There it is.

Now we're just going to take our lower ball joint nut and start that in there. Let's go ahead and get that ball joint nut on there. All right. Now let's snug that up. Now it's going to be time to do the upper ball joint. Let's go ahead and start that in. What you might notice is you have a hard time pulling down. Just use a nice pry bar for leverage. There we are. Start that nut on there. Now let's go ahead and torque this upper ball joint nut to 40 foot-pounds. Let's torque the lower ball joint nut to 38 foot-pounds. Now, the next thing we want to do is make sure that our hub surface is nice and clean, and then give it a nice coating of copper never-seize. You want to make sure that the hub surface on the backside of your rotor is clean as well, so you have a smooth surface to mount up here.

Let's go ahead and get this rotor on. Perfect. Now we're going to grab the caliper. We'll start in the bolts, and then we'll torque those to manufacturer specifications. All right. Let's go ahead and get the caliper on here. Let's torque these to 130 foot-pounds. Let's get our tie rod back on here now. Let's torque this to 45 foot-pounds. Now we want to make sure that our slot on the nut lines up with the corresponding hole in the tie rod end stud. If it doesn't, just continue tightening until the next slot does. Put in our locking cotter pin. Peen it over. There we are. Now it's time to re-secure our ABS wire here. Just going to look underneath the control arm. You can feel the slots. Slide that one up in there. There it is. Connect in our wire, give it a nice click, a nice tug. Yeah, see, it comes right apart. Click it in there, a tug, lock it in. Push this back through. Make sure your ABS wire isn't going to get caught anywhere. This looks good.

We're going to put on our axle nut and then we'll bottom it out, and then we'll torque it to 185 foot-pounds. It's going to be time to torque the axle nut. To do that, I like to put a nice bar across the studs, nice and flat as can be. That's going to prevent this from turning. Now let's torque it to 185 foot-pounds. Now let's clean down the mess on our differential. Let's get our wheel back on here. Start all your lug nuts on there, and torque them to 130 foot-pounds.

Okay, friends, so now, all you want to do is go ahead and pump up those brakes so they're nice and firm, check your brake fluid, and of course, get it down to your local alignment shop.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to do the wheel bearing and hub assembly on this Dodge Ram. This one's a 2008, but the procedure's pretty much the same for 2006 to 2008.

You'll need a new assembly from 1AAuto.com. 18 to 35 mm sockets with a ratchet and extensions, breaker bar, hooked pick, bungee cord or mechanic's wire, a pry bar, hammer, flat blade screwdriver, a file, torque wrench, and a jack and jack stands.

With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Using the small pick, remove the center cap from the wheel. Using a 35 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, crack the axle nut loose. Raise and support your vehicle. Finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.

Remove the two 21 millimeter bolts securing the caliper bracket to the spindle. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing them. If they are removed fully one at a time, the caliper can twist and cause the flex hose on the brake line to tear. Be sure to support the assembly while you remove the last bolt. Remove the entire caliper and carrier assembly. Using a bungee cord secure it out of the way by hanging it off of the frame. Remove the rotor from the hub.

Brace the hub with a pry bar and finish removing your axle nut. Using a hammer, tap the end of the axle to push it out of the hub. Remove the nut for the tire rod. Take a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. You want to leave the nut on a few threads so that it's flush with the bottom of the stud. Carefully tap up with a hammer. Remove the nut. Remove the tie rod from the control arm. Remove the 22 millimeter nut connecting the upper ball joint to the spindle.

Tap the front of the knuckle right where the ball joint comes through with a hammer to release it, careful not to hit it too hard because this is aluminum and it could crack. Once it's loosened up, you may have to hit the bottom of the control arm to release the joint from the knuckle. Using a flat blade screwdriver, release the tab on the connector for the ABS sensor. Push down and release the connector. Release it from the clamps under the control arm.

Pull down on the spindle or push up on the upper control arm to separate them and remove the axle shaft from the wheel bearing. Move the axle shaft so it's out of the way.

Remove the ABS sensor from the retainer on the spindle and allow it to hang off to the side. Using an 18 mm socket and a breaker bar, break the three 18mm bolts holding the hub in. Finish removing them with a ratchet. With the hub unbolted, use a hammer to hit the back of the hub and knock it out of the spindle. Be careful not to hit the dust shield in the process. Separate the wiring from the dust shield.

Here we have our old part that we removed from the truck and our new part from 1AAuto. As you can see, we have the same bolt pattern. Comes with new studs. We have the same splines where our CV axle's going to go in. We have the same ABS sensor, same wiring harness, and the same three bolt pattern to bolt into our spindle.

Using a file, clean the surface—both where the hub mounts to the face of the spindle and where it sits inside the bore of the spindle. Be sure that the spindle is free of burrs, corrosion, or anything else that's going to impede the hub seating into the spindle properly. Once the surface is free and clear of debris and dirt as well as burrs and any raised scoring, we can install our new wheel hub assembly.

Send your ABS wiring back through the dust shield. Be sure that the sensor lines up with the slot in the dust shield. If necessary, it is okay to line up the splines in the CV axle for now. Always start the hub in, start a bolt by hand, pop the axle out of the hub once we know it's aligned where we want it. Start our last bolt. We'll tighten these bolts down with an 18 mm socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 120 foot-pounds.

Line up and install the spines of your axle into the hub. Start your axle nut on as far as it'll go. Lift up on the upper control arm, slide the upper ball joint into the spindle. Pull down until you're able to get the nut started onto the threads. Tighten it down with a 22 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the upper ball joint to 40 foot-pounds. Add an additional 90 degrees.

Reinstall the tie rod into the spindle. Start the nut. Tighten it with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the tie rod to 45 foot-pounds. Reinstall the harness into the keepers and the bottom of the control arm. Reinstall the connector.

Push down on the safety tab. Reinstall the rotor onto the hub. Make sure that you don't twist the line on your brake hose. Reinstall the caliper carrier assembly onto the rotor. Start the bolts on the back side. Tighten the bolts down with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque the caliper bolts to 130 foot-pounds.

Reinstall your wheel and tire onto the vehicle. Start the lug nuts with a 22 millimeter socket. Get all the lug nuts as tight as you can in the air and lower the vehicle. After tightening your axle nut torque it to 185 foot-pounds. Pop the center cap back into place. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

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