Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2005 Hyundai Elantra. We'll show you the passenger side, but the driver side is basically the same and it should be the same for any 2001 to 2006 Elantra. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, sockets in the range of 17mm to 22mm, you'll need a ratchet, and probably a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, 14mm and 22mm wrenches, or just two large adjustable wrenches, and then you'll need pliers and grease if your new tire rod requires grease. We do recommend having your car aligned after this repair.
Start by removing one of the front wheels. If you don't have the benefits of air tools, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, jack up and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts, the wheel cover, and wheel on tire.
The first thing we're going to do is measure from the end of the inner tie rod boot to the end of the other tie rod. Just to get a general reference, 1 foot and 1/4. Just put a little penetrating oil on the nut.
Now, using a 22mm or a 7/8 inch wrench, we're going to loosen this nut, and we're going to hold the inner tie rod with a 13 at the same time. I'm just going to with the nut, securing that free. I'm just going to twist the inner tie rod to make sure that it's free inside the outer tie rod, and it is. I'm removing the counter pin.
I'm removing the 17mm nut from the ball joint. I'm going to hit the spindle right here to knock the ball directly. Once you have the tie rod free, you can just spin it off. You just want to make sure that the inner tie rod doesn't turn at all.
The new part comes with a grease fitting. We'll just screw it under the bottom. Tighten it up with a 7mm. The old part and the new part from 1A Auto. We're just going to, for reference, put them side-by-side, and you can see that they're the exact same length, and it should go in just as the other one came out. Okay. We'll speed up here again as we thread that new tie rod on to inner tire rod. Again, just to keep hold of the inner nut that comes with the new outer tire rod is a 19 mm.
We missed the shot where you actually measure again from the outside the boot to the end of the tie rod. Make sure it matches what you had before. It's kind of a preliminary alignment, although you do want to get your car aligned after you do this repair. I'm going to hold the outer tire rod while I tighten down. I got my grease gun. I'm going to attach it to the fitting. Give it several pumps.
Put the wheel back in place. Put the hub cap on and start your lug nuts, and then you just want to kind of hand tighten them. Hand start them first to make sure you don't cross the threads, and then when they're hand started then just kind of preliminary tighten them up. With the car back on the ground, put a little bit pressure on it or weight on it. I'm going to use the 22 and torque wrench that I've set to 100 foot-pounds and torque them in a crossing or star pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to remove and reinstall the front lower control arm for a 2005 Honda Elantra. We show you the passenger's side, but driver's side is the same. It should be the same for any 2001 to 2006 Elantra, and this is one of those repairs you can save money and time doing it yourself, but you will need to take your car and have it aligned after you do the repair. Tools you'll need: jack and jack stands, 14mm, 19mm, and 22mm sockets, a ratchet with extensions, a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, and two 14mm and 19mm wrenches. You could use a 9/16 standard wrench in place of the 14mm if you had to. You also need a torque wrench and a large hammer.
Start by removing one of the front wheels. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts, then jack-up and secure the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, the wheel cover, and wheel entirely. I'm going to turn the wheel to get a little bit better access for my wrenches. You use 14mm wrenches to hold the backside of the sway bar link, and for the nut, I'm going to put a wrench in here to help me get a little bit extra leverage to break the nut free. We'll fast-forward as we remove that nut the rest of the way.
I'm going to use my 14mm wrench to counter hold. Get that on top. Use the 14mm wrench to break it free. Okay, then as you can see there, what we do is we put the wrench on and then just hook another wrench onto the end just to give yourself some extra leverage. It helps you break the nut free. Two nuts free, pull your sway bar link out, and I've got a 19mm wrench on the nut for the lower ball joint, and another wrench for leverage. You might have to hold the brake rotor in place.
Once you get it broken free, you don't want to lock up your wrench between your axle and the nut, so then you can use your open ended, switching it back and forth. Okay, we'll just speed up here as we loosen that nut up. You don't want to take it quite all the way off yet. Give it a couple of whacks to the spindle here and free up the ball joint. I think you got it. Locate your two 19mm front control arm bolts. I'm going to use my ratchet with a couple of extensions to reach the bolt. To break them free I'm going to use a pipe for extra leverage over my wrench. Speed it up here again as we just remove those two bolts, you can see you use a pipe for some extra leverage to break it free, and then it comes out fairly easily just with your ratchet. We only need to get this bolt out but this bracket is not allowing us to get a sock on it, so we're going to loosen up the other three bolts for the bracket.
The sub-frame bolt is a 19mm. I'm just going to loosen it up a little bit. In this case, I'm going to use the pipe for extra leverage. The other two here are 14mm. With my 22mm socket, I'm going to take down the lower control arm bolt and I'm going to remove it completely. Finish removing this nut from the ball joint, and then, using a pry bar, pry out the rear. Now, take the control out.
Reinstalling the control arm, I make sure I put the little piece here on the backside of the front control arm bushing. I'm going to try and feed the rear bushing in first. I'm going to speed up here. What we do is get that rear control arm bushing up in there. Feed the bolt up in. You won't be able to put the bolt in all the way, but just feed it up in there so that you know that the rear mount is lined up. I'm going to sit the little joint into the spindle, just need to thread the nut and start to reinstall the control arm bolts. Use your socket, ratchet, and extensions. Put them on the bolts and basically just lift the bolts up into place. Push them in and get them going. Then you just want to tighten them up preliminarily.
For that other bolt use a screwdriver and line it up preliminarily. Then use a hammer to drive it in place a little bit, and then tighten it up. Now, you want to torque your two front bolts between 100 and 110 foot-pounds, and the other bolt to about 130 foot-pounds. Tightening up the ball joint nut, I'm going to fast-forward since this is just kind of tedious. You can only do it about an 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn at a time. Tighten it up with the one wrench and then hook another wrench onto it, pull it nice and tight about as tight as you can with those two wrenches.
Now, I'm installing the link back into the sway bar and to the control arm. Okay, and we get a nice shot of our elbow there. What you can see, once you've got it out, it's pretty easy process to get it back in. You might have to just manipulate the link a little bit to get it to go through the stabilizer bar and the control arm, but then put the nuts on pretty much hand tight. Then use your two 14mm wrenches, and we actually also used two 14mm wrenches, and you could also use a 14 and a 9/16 if you had to.
You basically want to get them about as tight as you can with a wrench, and then just hook the wrench on and give it another pull about a 1/4 of a turn using both wrenches. Put the wheel back in place. Put the hubcap on, start your lug nuts, and you just want to hand tighten them first to make sure you don't cross the threads. Then once they're hand started just preliminarily tighten them up. With the car back on the ground with a little bit of weight on it, I'm going to use the 22mm and a torque wrench that I've set to 100 foot-pounds to torque them.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA66851
