Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we are going to show you how to replace the front-strut assembly on a 2000 Chevy Cavalier. It's fundamentally the same operation for 2000 through 2005, and it is the exact same in terms of the tools and the strut you'll need from the left side to the right side. To perform this repair, you're going to need new struts from 1A Auto, a jack and jack stands, 21-, 19-, and 13-millimeter sockets and socket wrench, a breaker bar and pipe for extra leverage if needed as well as a pry bar.
Take a 19-millimeter socket and by hand, remove the lug nut caps that are attached to the hubcap, and once you've done that, pull your hubcap off. And if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire. There are two nuts on the ends of bolts that go through the spindle. Turn the whole spindle assembly to get better access. We're going to use some oil and spray down those two nuts on the end of the strut assembly just to make it easier for them to come off. Using a 21-millimeter socket and a breaker bar and a pipe for extra leverage, I'm going to break those nuts free on both the top and the bottom. And once I've got those nuts loose, I'm going to use a ratchet to make it faster for me to get those off. I'll fast-forward as I take those two nuts off. I'm going to use a hammer, and I'm going to tap out the bolts that go through. Be sure not to hit too hard or to hit the threads because you don't want to have a hard time putting the nut back on. Use a pry bar or a long screwdriver to pull apart the lower strut and the spindle.
In the engine compartment on the top of the strut tower, you're going to find three 13-millimeter fasteners, two nuts, and one bolt. I'm using a socket wrench with a 13-millimeter socket on it to remove those, and I'll fast-forward as I take those out. Now with the strut assembly totally loose, I'm going to go from the bottom and wiggle it a little bit and give it a tug to the left or back, and it should pop right out. And here you see a side-by-side, old part, new part, direct replacement fit from 1A Auto. Going in with the strut, I'm going to line up the hole for the two posts that go through. And once I got that kind of set in place, I'm going to let it hang there for a second. And then holding it from the bottom, keeping it in place, I'm going to tap on it with a hammer to get the two studs that go through the bracket on the top of the strut tower. If you have cruise control, that's where it mounts, and the bracket goes around those two studs. And then from the bottom I'm just going to twist it so it all lines up. And then I'm going to tighten down on the two 13-millimeter nuts as well as the one bolt that goes through the center there. And I will go ahead and fast-forward as I put those back in.
Now that the upper strut is tight, I'm going to fit into the spindle at the bottom, and I'm going to reinstall the two bolts, and they have a bit of a spline to them. So I'm going to use a hammer and hit them in to seat them once I've got them both in. And once I got those seated, I will reinstall the 21-millimeter nuts that go on the ends, and I will fast-forward as I tighten those up. Now with those two tight, I'm going to go ahead and torque them to 100 foot pounds. You can reinstall your wheel at this point and get the five lug nuts tight. With the car back on the ground or the wheel back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 90 foot pounds in a star pattern. And then once I got that done, I'm going to use the 19-millimeter socket to tighten up the plastic caps on the hubcap. Just remember that there is a notch in the hubcap here for the valve stem, and you're going to want to line those up. And then once I got those all lined up, go ahead and tighten them up. And at this point, I recommend having an alignment done on the vehicle. Make sure it's driving nice and straight down the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto. I hope this How to Video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, this of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a rear strut on a 2007 Chevy Cavalier. The same procedure from the left side to the right side. As well as many of the model years of the Chevy Cavalier. In order to do this repair, you're going to need a Jack and Jack Stands 19,18,13, and 10 mm sockets, socket wrench, and an extension, and a long screwdriver or pry bar.
Pop your trunk and we're going to do the right side in this video. Pull down the carpet right below the trunk hinge there, and you're going to find a 13 mm nut on a post. We're going to go ahead and remove that nut. I'm going to use a 13 mm socket and socket wrench to go ahead and do this. I'm going to fast forward as I take that nut off. You want to remove the hubcap with a 19 mm socket. If you don't have air tools, loosen the lug nuts before you raise the vehicle. Once you have the lug nuts loose, raise and support the vehicle and remove the wheel and tire. The wheel off, you'll see on the back side there the lower part of the strut. There's an 18 mm bolt that we're going to need to take out. We're going to go ahead and spray it down with some penetrating oil. Make the job a little easier for us.
I'm using an 18 mm socket on a socket wrench, and I'm going to use a pipe to go over the handle of the socket wrench. Give me a little bit more leverage to break that free. Once I've got it free, I'll take the pipe off to be able to swing the wrench a little bit easier. I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I take that bolt out. Up inside the wheel well on top of the strut assembly, you're going to find two 10 mm bolts. We're going to need to take those out with a 10 mm socket, socket wrench, and extension. I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I do that. Take that last bolt out. There you go. Let it drop. Apply a little pressure to the break drum there and pull the strut assembly out. Here's a side by side of the old part and the new part from 1AAuto. An exact fit replacement part.
Going back in is a reversal of the process of taking it out. We're going to apply a little downward pressure on that suspension there. Feed the single post that had the 13 mm nut in the truck compartment up through its hole. Then start threading on your 10 mm bolts that go in through there. Get those tightened up. We need to align the bottom of the strut so it fits into the suspension. I'm using a long flatted screwdriver just too kind of pry it so it gets in there straight. Once that's done, we can go ahead and put that 18 mm bolt back through. Use your 18 mm socket, socket wrench and tighten that back up. Torque the 18 mm bolts about 85 ft.-lbs. Back inside the trunk, install that 13 mm nut on top of the post on the top of the strut assembly. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I do that. Reinstall your wheel and tighten down your five lug nuts. I'll fast forward as I do that. Now, go ahead and torque the five lug nuts to 100 ft.-lbs. in a star pattern. Then, reinstall your hubcap by aligning the hole in it for the valve stem on your tire. Then, tighten them up by hand with your 19 mm socket.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's good for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experiences restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace a front strut on this 1997 Pontiac Sunfire. The process will be the same for any '95 to '05 Sunfire or Cavalier, and if you're looking at this with a different car, it's similar to really any front strut vehicle, just the size of the tools, and you might have a couple of clips or something attached to the strut you might have to remove. It's actually pretty amazing how easy this process is if I don't say so myself, as long as you but the loaded struts from 1A Auto. The tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, plus jack and jack stands to raise and secure your car.
Okay, so the first step is to remove the wheel. Now you can see here I've raised it up on a lift and I have air tools. If you work with hand tools you want to have the car down on the ground and loosen everything up and then raise it and secure it with jack and jack stand, so now we'll take a wheel off. Okay, so next is you're going to loosen these two large bolts, okay. I'm going to show you both how to do it with hand tools and air tools. Okay, so I'm going to just use some penetrating oil and coat those bolts up real good.
Okay, so this is a 21 mm bolt and actually if you don't have metric sockets 13/16ths will just go on there. Ideally you want to have a nice big breaker bar like this. I'm going to show if you just have regular tools, if you just have a regular ratchet bar like this you can put it on there and pull away and see if that gets it loose. The other thing you can do is use a big regular wrench and put it on your ratchet bar. This actually gives you that much more leverage and then you pull nice and easy and get that bolt going and then you can just use your ratchet. Obviously the ideal way to do it is with the air tools.
Then there's two, there's one right here. Okay those are off. I've taken all the bolts off, now I've gotten a jack underneath the control arm, actually underneath the ball joint here. I'm supporting this. Now I'm going to spray these two studs here with some penetrating oil. These are 13 mm and it looks like I can just use a regular wrench and they'll come loose. Okay, but I'm going to use the magic of air tools. Okay, so we've got the bolts out. These are loose. I'm going to pound these bolts right out. Okay, here I've got my jack down and not really supporting the control arm anymore. That's the whole thing. That's the beauty of loaded struts. The whole strut comes out.
Okay, so here's our original strut and here's the new loaded strut from 1A Auto. You can see yes it's the same thing, just nice and shiny new. That's the beauty of these loaded struts. It's five bolts. Take the old one out. Put the new one in and bolt it back in. You don't have to compress any springs. You don't have to do any of that. You pay a little more for the strut but it's just an easy job. Okay, so we're going to put this back in. Now you might be wondering why aren't you putting that nice new strut in, well; because, actually these struts aren't bad, so we're not going to be a new strut in the car, but I'm going to show you how to put them in anyways.
Okay, so basically put it back up in just like you brought it out. Okay, then start the nut on top to hold it and you want the two studs towards the inside of the care. Okay and then back down here you take the strut and you push the steering linkage and strut back in. You take one of your big bolts, but you start from the back side of the car and you basically have to kind of shift things around a little bit to get things started. Okay, you're going to tap the back side with a hammer to get it seated, okay. You put the big bolts back on. Okay and then up here put your other nut on and then what you want to do, I'm going to jack up the whole assembly so that it pushes it up into place and I can put this last bolt in.
Okay, now I'm going to tighten the top ones up. Okay, now you want to use a torque wrench. These top ones you want to set to 35 foot pounds. After I got the top all bolted together and torqued down. I'm going to tighten these up a little bit with the torque wrench, I mean with the air wrench. Okay, now I've got my torque wrench set to 95 foot pounds. Okay and there you go. Now we can put the tire back on and we're all done. It's a good possibility depending on where you are with your car, you may want to get an alignment after you replace the struts; because, the replacement could knock the car out of alignment a little bit. Okay, so my lug nuts of there and tightened up a little bit. Now I'm going to tighten them to 75 foot pounds and I use a star pattern. I put the lug nut covers on and just use my socket and by hand just tighten them up.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's with you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a loaded rear strut on this 1997 Pontiac Sunfire, same as any '95 to '05 Sunfire or Cavalier. The tools you'll need are some millimeter wrenches, 13, 19, and 10mm, and you'll need some sockets and extensions to make it easy to get in there, penetrating oil, and again, this is for a loaded strut. The struts we sell at 1A Auto have the springs and everything with them, so they're very easy for the do-it-yourselfer. You don't have to compress any springs or do any of that. If you buy a strut from somewhere else, and it doesn't have the spring, then you'll need a lot more tools, and it'll be quite a bit more difficult.
To do the rear strut, you want to start in the trunk here, and you pull down your insulation, and you can see right here, there is a 13-mm bolt or nut, I'm sorry, so you want to remove that nut. After removing that nut in the trunk, you're going to want to raise the car, secure it, and remove the rear wheel.
Now, actually from here, it's pretty easy. There's a 19mm bolt here. We're going to put a little penetrating oil on the end of it. These bolts are pretty well designed. This car, even though its age,155,000 miles and 13 years old, this bolt will still come out by hand. I do have the benefit of air ratchet here, and take that out. Then you kind of lift up on your carriage a little bit, the bolt comes out, and this drops down. You want to do these one at a time, and after that bottom one's done, there's two 10-mm bolts right up here. Then, I'm going to kind of hold onto it a little bit, and the strut comes right out.
You have the new strut from 1A Auto, exactly the same as the original. It's got the stud that goes up and you put the nut on, and everything will bolt in exactly the same. So, new strut goes up in. The stud will go into the hole. There it goes. I'm going to take one of my bolts, put it up in here and start it a little bit, so it's held in place. Start the other bolt. My big bolt, slide it in place. Just kind of shake things around a little bit. Start that. Tighten this bottom one up with the air wrench.
Use the air wrench up here again. I'm just making sure this is in place and get those started. Whoa, no way actually. Before we tighten those two up, we just check that stud. Make sure it's up through correctly, which it is. Now, we use our hand wrench and tighten these up. They should be probably about 35 foot-pounds. I'll just get them tight with this wrench. This lower bolt, we're going to tighten up to 55 foot-pounds.
Now, I'm just going to put the wheel back on. My wheel is back on, down on the ground. I'm going to torque my lug nuts to 75 foot-pounds, and we go in a star pattern. Now, I put on my lug nut covers. You just want to use your socket to tighten them by hand.
Now, here in the trunk, we're going to put our bolt back on. Not too tight. Push that back up into place, and you're all set.
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