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About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
This is video one in a two-part series, removing and replacing a hub on '99 to '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. In this video, we basically go through the removal. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 3/4", 11/16" and 1-7/16" socket. That latter socket is one that's not in most tool boxes. Pipe or breaker bar for leverage because some of these bolts are tight, a hammer or a sledge hammer, depending on what you need to get apart and how hard it is, a large flat screwdriver or a small pry bar, a large C-clamp, and you need a 13 mm 12-point socket.
Start with the 3/4" socket or your tire iron. I'm using impact tools. If you don't have impact tools, you're going to want to start with the tire on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, and then take the tire off. We'll speed it up as I remove the lug nuts and then remove the tire and wheel. We are going to, kind of, stop right here and if you do not have impact tools, then at this point, you're going to want to remove the center hub nut. Best way to do that is with a large, it's a 1-7/16" nut. You also need to remove a cotter pin and the little retaining clip, and then have a helper hold the breaks down, and when they're holding the breaks, then use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe or both to get leverage and remove that center hub nut.
Next, we're going to want to remove the break caliper, two bolts, one here and one down here. First you're might want to take either a large screwdriver or a small pry bar and just work it into this hole and pry it out on the calipers. This helps to reset the piston some and it just helps to loosen them up as well. Now these two bolts are 11/16", it should come out pretty easy. Once you remove those bolts, you can pull the caliper with the help of your screwdriver or your pry bar, move the caliper off, and then you want to carefully put it over to the side here. Now your brake pads come off pretty easily.
You need to see this break pad. There's a line right in the middle. That's actually your wear indicator, and you can see that there's quite a bit of wear left on these pads. We're not going to replace them. I'm just going to take them apart, put them back together so I can show you. Then I'm putting them back on, same thing. Pry it right out. Then as far as your discs go, what you want to do is, they might be getting a little bit thin, but since I'm not replacing anything, I'm not too worried about them but what you can do is take the back of your fingernail and just run it along the disc. If you feel any deep ridges or anything, that's an indicator you might want to replace them.
To remove your rotor, you're going to want to remove this caliper bracket, which is two more bolts, here and here. These bolts are 3/4", and if you don't have an impact wrench, you're going to want a breaker bar or a piece of pipe to give you extra leverage on your ratchet. Let's do the first one with my impact wrench here. This top bolt, I pulled the ABS harness. It's in a little clip. I just pulled it back and out of the way. I'm going to use a 3/4" socket and a small extension. Just put those on the bolt. Put my ratchet together. What you probably want to do is invest in a piece of pipe like this. Put the pipe on the ratchet, hold the ratchet on the bolt, pipe gives you extra leverage. Pull nice and easy, and it makes it easy to get big tough bolts like that out.
I'm going to coat this liberally with some penetrating oil. I try using a smaller hammer and a piece of wood. I'm just going to show you the larger hammer is most effective. If all else fails, you can always get out your 5-pound sledge. I put the three lug nuts on, so that if I do break the rotor loose, it doesn't go flying, and the hope is that you can just give this one really good whack, and it will come off, or it will loosen up, and then that way you won't ruin this rotor if it's good, and that's what we did. I unscrewed those lug nuts, pulled the rotor off, checked the back to make sure there's no permanent damage.
All right, so now I'm going to take the cotter pin out here, and generally the best way to do is just break the pieces off. We'll just speed this up here as I struggle with the bent ends of the cotter pin. I'm just using a combination of pliers and screwdriver to bend them until they break. Then this cap comes off, and then the little spring retainer. Now we want to remove this center nut, 1-7/16". If you don't have impact tools like this, what you actually want to do is do this step before you take the breaks apart. What you'll want to do is have somebody get in the truck, hold the brakes which will hold the hub in place, then use a big pipe or breaker bar and loosen and remove this nut. Straighten out your hub. Now what you want to do is make sure that your axle has broken free from the hub, and in general, if you are saving your axle, you don't want to just bang on this, but what you can do is just take your hammer and give it one good rap, and watch very closely your axle in relation to your hub. If it moves a little bit, then it's broken free, and you're all set. Take the hammer, okay, it moved, so that's free, and we'll be good.
Now to remove the hub, there's three bolts, one here, one up here, and then one over on the front side right there. This is the back side of the bolts. You'll want to use a little screwdriver to get some of this crust off, and coat them up real good with penetrating oil. These bolts that hold the hub are 13 mm, and you'll need a 12-point socket. I'm going to put my ratchet on there, and they're usually pretty, kind of, crusty, so really push it on there, grab my pipe. They break loose pretty nice. Here's some very fast motion of me removing those bolts. It does take quite a bit of torque. I do use the ratchet and the pipe most of the time, but eventually they come out. This is the part where it gets fun.
With that chin shot, that's where we're going to end it for now. Please check out our other videos, so it's the same video, same name, just part two, to see the reinstallation of the hub. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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This video is brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
This is part two of a two part video. Removal and installation of a front hub on a 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This is part two which is the installation and here is a quick reminder of the tools that you're going to need for this process and in addition to the tools listed here you will need a torque wrench for reassembly.
Tools Needed: Jack and Jack stands, 3/4" socket and Breaker Bar or pipe for leverage, 11/16" socket with short extension, hammer or sledge hammer, large flat screwdriver or small pry bar, large c-clamp, pliers, a wire brush and grease.
I'm just going to take the wire brush and clean out some of the scale and stuff in here. New hub from 1A Auto, nice and shiny and new. Just put it on the axial and work it on. Hold the axial from the back and just spin it so it's in place, push it in. Take one of our bolts and start it in, second bolt and make sure the ABS harness isn't getting caught up in there. Start it in. Now our third bolt. You always want to start the bolts first, you never want to put one bolt in then tighten it up.
Okay I'm just going to fast forward through preliminarily putting these bolts in and just a note we did have to work hard to get these back in. The bolts do fit pretty snug in there.
We're going to torque these to 85 foot pounds and now we're going to use a torque wrench to torque them to 85 foot pounds. Okay now we put our washer on. We're going to put our nut back on and I'm just going to preliminarily tight it with my impact wrench. I'm going to watch my axle go in. I'm going to torque that when I have everything in my breaks back together and I can have somebody hold the breaks for me. Let's put our rooter back on. I always like to take a lug nut and stick it on there just to hold everything in place. Now this goes in. Start those two bolts in and now I'm going to tighten these caliber bracket bolts to 85 foot pounds. Now my pads can go back in and for anybody wondering why I'm installing old breaks because the real repair we were doing is this hub. The breaks on this vehicle are fine so we're just reinstalling the old ones but we can do a video and show you how to do it at the same time. So you just put the pads in, push the pads in and now your caliber comes down. Actually, one thing, your ABS harness, make sure you clip it back into the bracket if you took it out to access that back bracket bolt. Put your caliber right back down on. You might have to push these slides in a little bit. Get your caliber bolt and just work the caliber around until you get the bolts started in. You have to make sure that these slides are also twisted the right way. These caliber bolts you only want to tighten to about 20 foot pounds and you might say well that's not a lot, that's right it's not a lot. These bolts just kind of hold things in place. What really takes the pressure is this big bracket with those bolts that you tighten up to 85 foot pounds.
Okay now we can remove that lug nut that we put in place and now it's time to put the wheel back on. Now we're going to tighten this nut up. You need to torque it to 175 foot pounds. I've got a not so lovely assistant in the car. He's put it in four wheel drive and has it in gear with it shut off and he's also going to be standing on the breaks. So hit the brakes. My torque wrench only goes to 150 so I'm going to torque it to 150. Stand on those breaks. All right now I'm just going to pull it a little further to 175 and we'll be all set. Put our spring loaded washer on there, our retainer and cotter pin.
Here I'm just bending the end of the cotter pin up so that it can't work its way out. Now you can put your wheel back on then start your lug nuts by hand so you avoid cross threading them and now I'm just using the impact wrench to preliminarily tighten them and I'll put it on the ground and torque them. Now I'm going to use my torque wrench. I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 100 foot pounds and I'm going to kind of use a star pattern crossing over each one and this is not the last step so stay tuned. Whenever you do break work make sure that you pump the breaks a bunch of times and then do a test stop from about five miles an hour and ten miles an hour. Before you road test the vehicle, make sure the breaks are working properly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us tool free at (888) 844-3393. We're the company that is here for you on the Internet and in person.
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