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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an alternator in a 2002 non-turbo V70. It's fundamentally the same operation for a 2001 through 2007 non-turbo V70 and non-turbo S60. In order to perform this repair you're going to need 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, and 14mms sockets, socket wrench, pliers, wire cutters, zip ties, and a long flat blade screwdriver.
You'll find the battery in the trunk, underneath the rear containment panel. Lift that up, and you'll find three 13mm fasteners. For this case, the car doesn't have it, but take those out, and then remove the battery cover, and then disconnect the negative battery terminal with the 10mm socket wrench.
Remove the air intake hose from above the radiator, and then from the bottom of the air box. Touch the radiator. There'll be two connectors: one to the radiator fan control unit, and then another one that goes to any of that purge valve. You're going to want to cut all the zip ties that keep those cables and connectors to it, and then pull them out of the way.
Remove the 10mm screw that holds the EVAP purge valve to the front end. Locate the two 10mm screws one on either side that hold the radiator in. I'll fast-forward as I take those two out. Unfasten the click that holds the power steering line to the dipstick tube. Remove the EVAP valve from the radiator fan. Pull the purge hose off the top of the radiator fan and just set that at the side.
Then start to jiggle the radiator fan up and out and see if it's caught on anything. If it does, just move those things out of the way. Go ahead and put a little pressure against that power steering line to move it forward or towards the engine so that you get a little bit more room to get the radiator fan out. Then it's just a matter of positioning it correctly.
You'll see when you look down inside where the obstacles are, but it's pretty straightforward. Just keep that power steering line out of the way, pull it up past the radio fan control module, and then up and out. I'm going to remove the clip that holds that power steering pipe in place, and then use a long flat screwdriver to pry the power steering reservoir up and out of the way.
Locate the 14mm bolt in the center of the idler pulley. Using a 14mm socket and socket wrench, turn towards the front of the car. So turn clockwise, apply pressure that way, and then take the belt off. After you've got the belt off, the pulleys release the tension on the tensioner pulley and the socket wrench very slowly. As it's spring-loaded, you don't want it to snap back. Locate the three 12mm bolts that go through the power steering pump pulley. The arrow is pointing to the bottom right bolt, and then the two red circles are the approximate position of the other two bolts that you're going to need to take out.
It will be necessary to rotate the pulley to access those bolts. I'm using a quarter-inch socket wrench with a 12 mm socket on it to remove those three bolts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward as I do it. Just keep in mind that you're going to need to turn the pulley as you're removing these to get access to the bolts behind them through the holes in the pulley itself. With those three bolts out of the way, remove the connector that's attached to it by the clip that the power steering hose goes into, and just push it aside. Then you can pull up on the power steering pump and pull it up out of the way. Keep in mind that that solid hose stays on it.
On the backside of the alternator, remove the cap that goes over the power wire and then also that connector right there. Pull that out. Remove the 13mm nut that holds the positive wire to the back of the alternator. The AC compressor is located directly beneath the alternator, and there are two 12mm bolts that go through it. Go ahead and remove those. I'll fast-forward as I do that. On the bottom of the AC compressor you'll find the same 12mm bolts. Go ahead and slack it off unless you don't have to fully remove them.
Locate the 13mm bolt that goes through the top of the alternator there. I'll fast-forward as I remove that 13mm bolt. Go ahead, reach in, and pull your alternator over towards the middle of the engine. You're going to need to twist it up it. Keep that power steering line out of the way. It's actually easier, you'll see now that it should come down and then come out even further more towards the driver side. That's what I'm doing here. I'm dropping it back down, being careful of any connector and of the radiator in front, and you see it just wants to come out a little bit easier over there's a little bit more room.
Go ahead and put it back in starting from that side where you pulled it out. You can see here how I'm twisting it on hand, getting it into place so that that lower bracket goes in behind the top of the AC compressor.
Then reinstall that 13mm bolt that goes in on the top-side of the alternator. I'll fast-forward as I get that bolt started, and you don't want to tighten it all the way yet because you've still got to line up the bottom with the other two 12mm bolts.
Now go ahead and reinstall those two long 12mm bolts that we took out of the top of the AC compressor. The same ones that go through the bottom of the alternator and into the block. Go ahead, reinstall those and tighten them up as well as the two on the bottom of the AC compressor, the two below that we just loosened up. Tighten those back up.
Now go ahead and tighten up that 13. Reinstall the connector on the back of the alternation, and then go ahead and put your power cable back on and screw on your 13mm nut. Finish tightening the 13mm with a socket wrench. Reinstall the plastic cap on the positive cable.
Now you can put your power steering pump back into place. Line it up with the three holes that match up to it with the bracket. Then go ahead and reinstall the three 12mm bolts that you took out. I'll fast forward as I do that. Before putting the belt back on, familiarize yourself with the belt diagram that we've made here. You can even print it out if you need to. I'm going to go ahead and put the belt back on. You're going to get your belt, get it lined up on the pulleys, except for the power steering pulley, that's where we're going to use a point for it to slip-on.
Grab your 14mm wrench or socket, and socket wrench you've got on the tensioner pulley. Start pulling the tension on towards the front of the car, so clockwise and just keep ratcheting it. While you're doing that slip more and more the belt on. It can be a little tough, but the more that you get the belt on the easier it is going to be to ratchet and get more free play. Clip the connector back in place.
Lineup the guides on the power steering reservoir, clip it back into the coolant bottle, and push the tab over the house. Here, we're showing you the two tabs on the bottom of the radiator fan, and then where they sit on the radiator itself. Those are going to need to slide in. I'm back in with radiator fan. I just want to make sure I don't pinch any wires, keep everything out of the way, go in with maybe the right side first, get it around the transmission lines, and then go ahead in and get it past the power steering line. Make sure that you keep the harnesses out of the way because they will make it harder for you to get it in there. I'm just going to fast-forward as I finish putting that in.
Put the coolant and purge hose that runs along the top of the radiator fan shroud back in place before you put that purge valve back in. Then screw in that 10mm that holds it in. From there, you can go ahead and start to zip-tie back the harnesses and connectors that go along the fan shroud. I'll fast-forward as I reconnect everything and zip-tie it back into place.
Reinstall the two bolts that hold the radiator fan to the radiator assembly in the upper corners. I'll fast-forward as I go ahead and do that. Go ahead and reinstall the clip that went on the oil dipstick tube, and then plug or put your power steering line back in. If you pulled your dipstick out, go ahead and put that in and then reconnect the air intake pipe.
Reinstall the negative battery terminal and tighten it up with a 10mm wrench. Once you're done with that, go ahead and put the cover back on. If you have the 13mm nuts, go ahead and install those. Tighten up that 13mm bolt that the bracket slips in to.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. Today on our '03 Volvo V70 I'm going to show you how to replace the alternator. If you need that part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
First thing you're going to need to do is disconnect the battery, which is located in the trunk. Take out this little drawer you got. The battery is located right here. You're going to use a 13-millimeter socket and disconnect the, remove the top protector here. All this is is a hold down. It has a hook on this side and a slider that slides into a plastic way. Now we have a protector cover case. Lift that up. Then we have our battery. Negative and positive, and we're going to disconnect the negative. It's a 10-millimeter socket or wrench. Just back off on it enough. Just grab and wiggle that terminal off. Make sure it stays clear.
We're going to open the hood. The hood latch location is on the driver's side, the left leg kick panel. You reach in, and you feel a handle. See it. Just give it a pull. Open the hood. Latch is located in the center. I'm going to disconnect the upper radiator hose to the radiator, so that I can move that aside for a better access to the alternator. I have previously taken the head lamp out for another video, but we're just going to leave it out for a visual for you at home to see the alternator and the removal of it. You do not have to remove the head lamp to take the alternator out.
This is a seven-millimeter socket on this hose clamp from the European style hose clamp. I have a catch bucket underneath, so there is going to be some coolant coming out from disconnecting the top hose. I don't really need to drain the whole system. I just want to get the hose up and out of the way. With a T-55, I'm going to bring it down, put it in the actual tensioner, the adjuster right there. I'm going to pull down on it, so that I can move the actual serp belt. Pull it off the power steering pump and then let that bring your wrench up. We can actually leave the belt right there, if we wanted to. Now we can take it off the alternator.
Next, with a 12-millimeter socket I'm going to reach in through the pulley and dismount the power steering pump bracket. There are some nice little round cutout holes in the pulley, so that you can actually get onto the mount. There's three bolts, they're all 12-millimeter socket. The one on the bottom is going to be the hardest one to see. There we go. Once I've loosened those all out, I'll take my ratchet out of the way. Now I can just use the straight socket to get each bolt out.
We just have the last mounting bolt on the bottom that I'm taking out by hand. There we go. That's the last bolt. Now I can move the pump and just get it up out of the way. Pull the reservoir up, however you got to get it up out of there. Now you've got a clear shot at your alternator. You can see everything. I'm going to disconnect the top mounting bolt first. That's a 12-millimeter socket. It's pretty easy to get to. I'll just break that free. See, that's the top bolt.
The two lower alternator bolts are actually the two upper mounting bolts for the alternator. That's one of the lowers. There is the other lower bolt, both the same length. Always check that. Now I'm going to loosen up the lower two bolts on the AC compressor. Hopefully, I don't have to take them completely out, but we'll see. 12-millimeter socket, and I'm going to loosen up the two lower AC compressor bolts. Hopefully, I don't have to take them all the way out. I'm just trying to get enough movement, so that I can do that.
Just by loosening the lower mounting bolts on that AC compressor I'm now capable of moving this alternator completely out, giving myself enough room to disconnect the single prong wire back here and the battery cable. I'm going to do the battery cable first. 13-millimeter socket. I'm going to just connect the cable to the back of the alternator. There's no tab to pull out that wire. You just want to grab a good grip on it and pull it right out. Now we can pull the alternator right out and out of the way.
Here we have our new alternator from 1A Auto. Here's the one we took out. It has been changed. It is an aftermarket, so it has some numbers on it, you can see. The pulley is the same size as the one from 1A Auto. It's got the same amount of venting fins. You could see the regulator mounting on the back. This is where the positive wire connects. The one from 1A Auto gives a nut with an actual locking washer on it instead of the crush washer style. Regulator is there, mounting surface is the same. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
Now I'm going to install my new alternator. I'm going to connect my single-wire connector, put it on that tab, and push it right in. I did a visual and made sure there was no burnt out connector. Now there's a nice cutout in the backing of the alternator for where this power wire sits. The positive wire sits flush right in there. The new nut that comes with our alternator has got a locking nut already part of locking washer, already part of the nut. Place that right on. Tighten it right down. That's a 13-millimeter socket. Now snug that right up, not too much. Perfect.
Now I can line up my mounting bolts. I'm going to put the bottom ears down behind the actual AC compressor, and that lines right up. Bring it right in. I'm going to put the top mounting bolt on first because I want that to help line up the lower bolt. This whole alternator, this whole bracket right here, it's for the alternator and the AC. It lines right up. Thread that bolt in. You might have to lift it up. You'll feel the threads, yeah. I caught them, that's great. Now I can put the two lower bolts in. They're going to go through the AC compressor back right through the bracket of the alternator and into aluminum housing. Same for this one. I have to lift this up. There we go. Make sure you start everything by hand especially if you're going to use air.
We're ready to go. 12-millimeter socket, let's tighten it up. I'm going to do everything by hand first. Get that bolt right down to the bottom and out. Okay, that's bottomed out. You want to bottom out the bottom ones prior to tightening anything. Now I'm ready to tighten all my bolts back up. I'm going to start from the bottom of the AC compressor, those two mounting bolts. I'm just going to bottom them out and then turn it on a quarter turn. Top mount of the AC, which is the lowest mount for the alternator and the front-mounting bolt. They sure did make it easy by everything being a 12-millimeter socket.
On the pulley for the power steering pump, it has those cutouts. That's how we took it out, so I'm going to line up my top bolt first, make it a little bit easier on myself. I'm not going to tighten it. I'm just going to snug it up and then put the other two in. Now we're going to tighten up all three mounting bolts for that power steering pump, 12-millimeter socket. Snug them. Bottom them out. Snug it. All right, let's put the belt on.
Now I've routed my belt in the correct routing, put my T-55 back into the tensioner. I'm going to pull down on that tensioner and hope that the belt doesn't come off of anything. I can try to guide it up and around the power steering pulley first, maybe get some slack out of it, so I can ratchet some more. Now I've got to reroute everything on the pulleys, and miraculously, use the tool at the same time. Let's see if I can get it to go around the power steering now. I did it. Okay. I just want to reset it on the tensioner. It's not right in the center. There we go. Now with a flashlight make sure it's on all the pulleys. Give it a good visual down there. Make sure it's in the groove, not off by one tooth. Everything looks great. Now I'm going to reconnect my top radiator hose. That was a seven-millimeter socket.
All right. Now after disconnecting the upper hose and some coolant loss, I'm going to just top it off. Don't forget to run it, bring it to full temp. Let the fans come on and confirm that the coolant is at the proper level. Now after I've put the alternator in I took my multi-meter, and I just hooked it up to my battery to make sure that I was putting out proper voltage. I'm within spec. Now we're ready to drive it. We're ready to install the negative back on our battery. I'm just going to place it down on the post. Make sure it's all the way down. 10-millimeter, we'll tighten that up again. Let's put the safety cover on.
Now we can put the pull down bracket on. You can see this cutout. There's supposed to be a bolt here and there wasn't when I took this apart. If you had this vehicle with this bolt, that has to come off. We'll obviously take this hold down bracket off, but we do have the two mounting nuts for this side. We'll put that down. Take my 13-millimeter socket, and we'll tighten that up. Okay. Put the shelf back. This has the little lock tabs. Line the key ways up internal.
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