2007 Ford Mustang GT V8 4.6L with 4 Wheel ABS Brakes Front 12 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit DIY Solutions SUS03236

Once your vehicle is raised and supported safely, you're gonna remove all 5 lug nuts using a 21-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel. The next thing we're gonna do is remove these bolts right here that hold the caliper to the slider fins of the bracket. Use my 14-millimeter to take out both those bolts. I'm gonna continue with that pry bar just get this caliper out of the way. Let's get these pads out of here. Next, I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter and and take out these 2 caliper bracket bolts and remove that bracket. The next thing you would wanna do is just take one of your lug nuts, start it on one of the studs here. If the rotor is stuck on, which this one isn't, you just take your hammer and give it a little bonk to break it free. The lug nut is gonna keep it from possibly coming off and hurting you. Get the rotor right off of here. All right. So, at this point, we can see the cover right here. I'm gonna use this tool, it's got some little edges on it. I'm gonna come right along the edge where the cap meets onto the hub, grab on to it right there. Give it a little bonk, breaks it free. You wanna check your cap to make sure there's no damage that might let moisture in there. This looks great. We'll set it aside.

At this point, we're gonna remove this axle nut. Use your 36-millimeter socket. Grab your hub, pull it off of there. Next, I'm gonna take some solvent, clean up this area. Check to make sure there's no burrs or anything anywhere around this. That looks really good. If it's caught up, you might need to do something about that. Now is gonna be time to install our brand new hub. I'm gonna use a tiny bit of threadlocker. Right along the threads, slide this bearing up on here. Grab your nut. Now, we're gonna bottom this out. Torque this to 251 foot-pounds. Torqued. I used a little bit of RTV or gasket maker right along the edge. Just bonk that on there. Of course, clean up your mess when you're done. Let's put a little bit of copper never seize on here, to your rotor. Throw it up on there. I have a spare nut and then one of my lug nuts. That's just gonna hold the rotor from moving around too much on me.

Now, if you look at your mounting bolts, if you see threadlocker or a whole bunch of rust, you need to make sure you clean up those threads and then we're gonna reapply threadlocker. Now, it's time to get the bracket on here. I've got my bolts nice and clean with a little bit of threadlocker. We're gonna start them both in. Bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these bolts to 85 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get our brake pads on here. So, these little pins right here hold the pad away from the rotor. So, as soon as you release the brake pedal, they're gonna wanna separate and then the rotor is gonna be able to cool down as you drive.

Next, we're gonna grab the caliper. You're gonna notice your slider pins have the flat area and then the rounded area. You want these flat areas to be up against the flat area on the caliper. That's gonna hold them from spinning. Squeeze those pads in, of course. Start in both of these then we'll bottom them out and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 25 foot-pounds. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now, we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer specifications. Now, with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're gonna remove all five lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel, set it aside. Next, we're gonna take off the outer tie rod end nut. At this point, I'm just gonna put this nut on there just a couple threads, and then I'm gonna hit right here on the knuckle until this drops down. You wanna be careful not to damage your boot. If you follow your subframe along, and you see this nut right here, you're gonna remove that nut and this one right here. And those have bolts that come through from the top, so you just use your 18-millimeter wrench. Grab that bolt head. Should be up there. Take this out of there. Do the same to the other side. Grab both bolts out, grab your power steering rack, give it a wiggle.

Okay. So, now that it came out of its spot, you can see this bolt right here. We're gonna remove that bolt completely. We're gonna use our 18-millimeter swivel. Okay. Get this off there. Next, we're gonna move along to the rear side of the subframe here where the control arm connects in. You've got a 21-millimeter nut there and one right here. On top, it's a captured bolt so you don't have to worry too much about it spinning too much. It's got a little tab on there. Okay. I'm gonna leave that on just a little bit. That looks good. Here we go. Let's leave that right like that. Let's move along to over here. Use a 15-millimeter to hold this side of the bolt, then use an 18-millimeter on the other side to remove the nut. Let's get that nut on there just a little bit. Got a little punch and hammer. Okay. Use that. Let's continue driving it out.

The next thing we wanna do is drive this ball joint stud down. So, you can use an air chisel and go right on the stud like that. You could try to use a pickle fork and come in between the control arm and the knuckle. Whatever you need to do, definitely make sure you have some penetration on there though. Awesome. Let's go ahead and pop these bolts out of here. Be careful not to damage that power steering rack of course. It's pretty close. Let's get these bolts out of here. There's one, there's a second one.

All right. So, I'm just gonna pull this down, pull our knuckle out of the way, and pull out that control arm. Let's take some of this copper never-seize, go right inside that ball joint hole. Perfect. Let's start putting this lower control arm in, put the rear up and over there, and then we're gonna get this ball joint stud started. Let me see if I can get it somewhere to go in a little bit. There we go. Now, we're gonna try to get the rest of it lined up. Let's get this bolt in there.

Now, I'm gonna take my bolts for the rear, start those through. This one might not go as far down. Okay. Grab those nuts, start them on there. All right. I've got both of those started. If for some reason you're having a hard time, you can use a long pry bar, use a little bit of leverage to try to pry down on this. Let's snug these up. Start in this bolt. So, now we're gonna get the lower ball joint bolt in here. What you wanna do is pay attention to this hole. Try to look through and see if you can see the slot on the lower ball joint stud. Make sure that it lines up with the hole. If it doesn't, just use your small pry bar, a little bit of leverage, and then you should be able to move it around to get it lined up. Here we are. Give it a bonk. We've got our nut, start that on there. Awesome. Let's snug this. All right. So, all the mounting points for this are snugged up, let's go ahead and torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Now it's time to torque up these bolts. I'm gonna start with the ball joint to the knuckle bolt using my 15-millimeter to hold it so I can't spin. I'm gonna torque this to 76 foot-pounds. There we are. Now, we're gonna torque these nuts to 129 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now, we're gonna torque this forward bolt to129 foot-pounds as well. Torqued.

So, now it's time to get the rack back inside here. Just gonna push it. If it doesn't work, you can use something as simple as a rubber mallet. Give it a couple of light bonks. Obviously, you don't wanna damage it by using a metal hammer. Now, we're gonna put our bolts down and through and then we'll put the nuts on here. That's our bolt. Same to the other side. Get them started on there. Awesome. Now, it's time to bottom those out. Let's finish by torquing this down. We're gonna torque it to 85 foot-pounds. Torqued. Bring your knuckle around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Spot on this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59 foot-pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now, we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer's best... Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in the star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully, remove the wheel, set it aside. One of the first things we have to do is break free this jam nut. Try to have a good grip. There we are, That broke free.

The next thing we're going to do is remove this cotter pin. Use your 18-millimeter, remove this nut. Let's take that nut, just put it back on here a couple threads. Next we're gonna take a hammer and we're gonna hit right here, and this is gonna fall down, the nut's gonna prevent it from falling and potentially hurting us. There we are. This nut off of there. Okay, when you try to turn the outer tie rod end, if it doesn't come unscrewed from the inner tie rod end, you're gonna need to hold this with some locking pliers and then try to turn this at the same time. If you're having a hard time turning it, you could use a boxed end of a wrench. It's a good idea to count the turns as it comes off. Twenty-three is what I've got for mine. Here's my differ, but it's probably approximately that. Now I'm gonna hold my pliers. Use a 22-millimeter socket on this right here. Try to get the jam nut out of the way.

Next we're going to get the bellows boot off of here, to do that there's going to be a clamp of some sort on this side, and a clamp of some sort on this side. Now we're going to give the bellows boot a tug, and try to get it right off this inner tie rod end. At this point, you want to check the bellows boot, make sure it's not ripped or torn in any way. Or of course, if it's overly stiff that might become an issue. If you happen to take a peek inside, and you see it's full of fluid, more than likely if it came from inside of your power steering rack right here, in which case you would need to replace the power steering rack.

Here we go. Gonna grab onto this inner tie rod end with my pliers, get to the right size, turn it counterclockwise. There we are, take this right off of here.

There it is. Time to get ready for an install. I put on a tiny bit of thread-locker. I used the lube that was included with the inner tie rod end. I put it all inside that ball and socket, and then just a little bit of lube down on these threads over here. You can also use some Never-Seez. It's bottomed out. Grab this with my pliers, make sure I have a nice good handle on it. Give it a little snug. About halfway up your inner tie rod end, you're gonna be able to feel this little groove. You want to make sure you put a little bit of that lube from your packet right there as well. When we put the bellows boot on, this is gonna slide all the way down, and then that's where this is gonna sit. You want to make sure that you have lube there, that's gonna help the alignment technician down the road.

Okay, and everything flowing, that feels good. Make sure you put a clamp here and a clamp right there.

Tiny bit of copper Never-Seez doesn't hurt. This jam nut, and put it down probably about halfway or a little bit further. Grab your outer tie rod end and screw it in as many times as it took you to take off the original. Bring your knuckle around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Let's bottom this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59-foot-pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now we're gonna bring this down, and torque it to manufacturer's specifications.

Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground, but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in a star pattern to 100-foot-pounds. Torqued.

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all 5 lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel. Set it aside. One of the first things we have to do is break free this jam nut. Make sure you have a good grip. There we are. That broke free.

The next thing we're going to do is remove this cotter pin. Use your 18-millimeter, remove this nut. Let's take that nut, just put it back on here a couple threads. Next we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here, and this is going to fall down, then that's going to prevent it from falling and potentially hurting us. There we are. It's not off of there. Okay.

When you try to turn the outer tie rod end, if it doesn't come unscrewed from the inner tie rod end, you're gonna need to hold this with some locking pliers and then try to turn this at the same time. If you're having a hard time turning it you could use a boxed end of a wrench. It's a good idea to count the turns as it comes off, 23 is what I've got for mine. Yours might differ, but it's probably approximately that.

Grab your outer tie rod end, and screw it in as many times as it took you to take off the original. Bring it up around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Let's bottom this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59 foot pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here.

Start on all your lug nuts, and then bottom them out. Now we're going to bring this down and torque it to manufacturer's best. Now with the vehicles wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.