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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you water pump replacement on this 2003 F250. This truck has the 5.4 liter gas V8. This procedure is the same for a lot of Ford trucks and SUVs as well as vans with the 4.6 liter and the 5.4 liter V8 engines. The tools you'll need for this job are a large adjustable wrench, a catch pan, half- inch drive breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe for leverage that's to get the serpentine belt off, a belt wrench, a 10-mm socket with a ratchet and extension, a hammer, a large flat wedge screwdriver, small wire brush, rags, or a sponge or paper towels, and two or three gallons of fresh antifreeze or coolant, and also as anybody knows on these trucks if you have a stool you'll need it to stand on to reach over that big grill.
Okay, looking at the engine compartment right here the fan is attached to a pulley that is attached to your water pump. So indicators that your water pump is your problem is when your vehicle is running you will smell the kind of a sweet smell of the coolant. You'll also probably see some steam coming from this area of the engine and then underneath you may see some water. Actually my truck's already leaked it all out so there's no water underneath here but you may see some water or green coolant on the ground underneath your truck and then as you look up at the bottom of the engine okay, you can see that the front bottom of my engine is damp. It is has coolant on it. I'll zoom in here a little bit to see the coolant right there dripping off the front of the engine. That means that the coolant is leaking out of the water pump.
Okay, so what we're actually going to do is right under here this is my radiator and this is my drain. I'm going to use a wrench, put a catch pan underneath, open this up, and drain. You don't have to drain all the coolant out but you want to drain some of the coolant out of the radiator to bring the level down some. Okay, so now that is tightened up that drain and I just position my pan underneath the middle of the front of the engine. Okay, now you're going to remove your serpentine belt. I'm taking a half-inch drive ratchet, inserting it into my tensioner and I put the pipe on that helps me get leverage. Push clockwise on the tensioner and then you can slide the belt right off of the alternator and then slowly release back on the tensioner and you take your ratchet and pipe off and you can take your belt and then just kind of remove it from that side and just pull it over here.
Okay, with the belt out of way it's very easy to see right there is your weep hole so you look for coolant coming up and out of there. And even in this shot it appears to be dry. That's only because my truck was so low on coolant because the coolant leaked out of the water pump so quickly. You can see how it stained, the rust-colored stain. That water pump is aluminum so that rust-colored stain basically indicates some coolant came up out of the cast iron block and deposited some rust so we can be 100% sure now that the water pump is the problem.
I need to remove my cooling fan. I've got a belt wrench and you want to put the belt down around the pulley. Now you can see here I've got my belt wrench on. I'm using it. I'm actually pressing it against the alternator to hold it in place. I'm going to put my large adjustable wrench down in there and a large and remove a large bolt that holds the fan. Once you have that loosened up then you basically can just kind of spin the fan right off. I'm just going to want to let the fan rest right in there.
Now using a 10-mm socket with a ratchet remove the two bolts that hold the pulley and we're just going to fast forward this so you're doing the same thing. Use that belt wrench around the water pump pulley, hold it in place, and then the 10mm socket and ratchet. Remove those four bolts that hold the pulley in place. Okay, here you can see I just disconnected that up radiator hose to give you a better view. You don't have to do that but use a flat blade screwdriver and just pry against the water pump, keep turning the pulley a few degrees, and keep prying until it comes off. Now your water pump's held on by four 10mm bolts. You can see one and two, there's the third one here, and one underneath over here that you can't really see. I got that one underneath first.
I'm going to fast forward as I remove the four bolts that hold the water pump in place. These four bolts come out fairly easily once you get them started with a wrench. After a couple turns they basically come right out with your fingers. Okay, now what you want to do is take a good-sized hammer and basically hit the side of the water pump shaft and you can see it's starting to move back and forth. Once you get it and actually if you look just below the radiator hose you'll see a little crack opening up. Once you get it to move quite a bit then use a screwdriver, force it into the crack, and then hit the opposite side.
Okay, and then I'll move back and forth between hitting one side and the screwdriver until the pump comes out. Okay, so I'm moving it back and forth, changing position of the screwdriver. You can see the pump comes out and some more antifreeze will drain out of your engine. Take a nice absorbent sponge and try and just kind of sop of some of the coolant down here and take a wire brush and just carefully clean it up a little bit. Just take your sponge and just kind of wipe out and make sure you don't leave anything in there. New pump. Got my O-ring installed. I put some penetrating oil on it so it'll slide in nicely and I'm going to have my weep hole up and that's pretty much well in place. All right. The bolt's in. Okay, I'm going to fast forward here. This is kind of a long process this part of it. You want to put each bolt in by hand first and you want to basically push in firmly on the pump and get all the bolts kind of hand tight. You need to make sure that you force your pump in nice and straight so basically get all the bolts in by hand first, then tighten one of them a few turns. Go to the opposite one, tighten that a few turns, one of the other ones, tighten a few turns, opposite one a few turns until you have all of the bolts basically snug. Now we're going to tighten these bolts to 19 foot pounds. I'm going to start with the top one and then go to the bottom one. Okay, I'm going to fast forward through quite a bit of the reassembly here.
Put that pulley back on, start all four bolts. When I put it on I actually put one bolt through, get that one started, get the pulley in place, then start the other three bolts, then you can put your belt wrench back on the opposite way. Again, put it against the alternator so it holds it in place and tighten up the bolts. You want to have them probably about 20-foot pounds. They don't have to be extremely tight, just on there snug. Don't over tighten them because you don't want to stretch them or break them.
Now re-install the cooling fan. You basically lift it up into place, push it onto the shaft, and just keep turning it slowly until you get it on there. Be careful not to cross-thread it. Get it into place. Then use your large adjustable wrench with the belt wrench and tighten it up. I'll take our belt and make sure it's still down around the crank shaft. Okay, take it down and around this pulley here. Okay, now it's all on there with the exception of the alternator. The ratchet put it in the tensioner, the pipe, the ratchet and pipe. Pull the tensioner over and put the belt over the alternator. And then release the ratchet and make sure your belts all on there.
We're going to refill the anti-freeze, got a filter in there. Your minimum cold fill line is right here. Depending on how much you drained your radiator it's probably going to take 2 -3 gallons. Make sure its properly mixed fluid. As you can see I filled it up and if you really watched close it is kind of draining down. I'm going to start the engine for just a minute and get that fluid circulating through the truck a little bit. Ok I'll get it back up to that minimum line. We'll drive it around a little bit. Let it cool down and check. And fill as needed.
So now you can see with the truck idling and up to temperature. No leaks underneath nice and dry. And you can see our fluid went down some we'll shut it off let it cool off, recheck that fluid and go from there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here you on the internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In the driver's side front of your radiator, there's a drain. You can see the little drain hole here. There's usually an 8 millimeter nut here, which you can loosen. There's also an 8 millimeter Allen inside. Drain that. Loosen it up, and your fluid will start draining out.
We've actually already drained the fluid, so we're just kind of going through the motion. You're not going to see any fluid drain out, but have a drain pan underneath to collect all your coolant. While the radiator's draining, I'll remove the radiator cap, which will allow air in and the fluid to come out faster. Once your coolant's done draining, close the valve back up.
Remove your air intake tube. There are two fittings. You just press the green tab to the side, and pull them off. Again, the green tab. Pull it up and off, and then loosen your two band clamps, and pull the tube out with a flat blade screwdriver. Remove the hose from the radiator fill, and then remove the two 10 millimeter bolts that hold the bottle on. There's also a wiring harness clip back here that you'll have to pull off.
Remove the 8 millimeter bolt that holds the power steering reservoir in place. Then just pull it up and kind of set it off to the side. A 10 millimeter bolt holds the upper radiator shroud on here, and there's one right on the other side as well. We'll remove those. Use a good pair of pliers. Squeeze this clamp, and this little tab will actually lock it open. That's all right. Then twist the radiator hose and pull it off. Set it back as well. Then you can kind of pull up and back towards the engine, and pull your upper shroud up and off.
Disconnect the lead. There's just a tab right here. Push down with your thumb and separate it, and then remove this 8 millimeter bolt. Use an 8 millimeter socket with a ratchet and extension to help you out. That comes out, and just kind of pull this out. You actually can swing it off to the side to make it easier to get at your fan clutch. Once you get to this point, there are special tools designed specifically for getting the fan clutch off.
Now we need to remove the fan clutch, which is this large 36 millimeter nut here. Basically, you want to use a wrench to hold on to the pulley. You can see this wrench goes down, and it goes over the bolts. I can now hold that pulley like that. Then I have a 36 millimeter wrench that's a little thinner that fits down over. I can put a bar, for more leverage, on there. Usually, once it loosens up, you can see, now, that the fan clutch is spinning right off.
Before you take your belt off, just note how it's routed up over the alternator, under this idler, around your power steering, up over the water pump, and around the crank, up over the tensioner, and then back down around your AC, and back up and around.
We'll remove these four 10 millimeter bolts on the water pump pulley. You don't want to put the wrench on like this, because most likely it will just spin the pulley. If you put the wrench so the handle is over the center, you'll have less leverage on the pulley, and the bolts should come loose. You can leave one in just to keep the pulley in place till you take the belt off. Half inch ratchet handle in the square hole in your tensioner. Put the handle in, push down, and just take the belt off, and then slowly let your handle up. Then you just pull the belt off your water pump pulley, and then we can take this all the rest of the way out, and the pulley off. You might have to tap on the pulley with a hammer in order to get it off. Ours comes off pretty easily. Now take the belt all the way out, just so it doesn't get wet, because there's going to be water leaking out from the water pump.
Four 13 millimeter bolts still hold the water pump in place. There's one way down here. As you remove those, you'll get water from the engine leaking out, so have a drain pan underneath. You may need to tap it with a hammer to break it free. At this point, once this loosens up, you'd have a lot of antifreeze coming out. At this point it'd be draining out of your engine. Our vehicle actually has a cracked block, so we're just doing this to show you. There's the pump from our vehicle. It's in pretty rough condition. They actually have this ... There's a hole right here that, once the bearing goes bad, water will start seeping out of, and you'll get a couple drips underneath your vehicle.
The new one from 1A Auto is exactly the same. It has the same hole. It will probably outlast your vehicle, though. It's going to install just like the original, and it's going to be a perfect replacement.
There's a shipping cover here that we can remove, and then this O-ring installs on before you put it on the car. Put the O-ring on. You'll want to put a little light layer of oil around it, just to make sure it goes in correctly. Going to use some carb and choke cleaner. Get in there with a brass wire brush. Really clean up the area where the pump mounts. Follow that up with an abrasive pad. Just do a final clean up with a good, absorbent rag. Make sure you do the edge where it mounts as well. Just have a little bit of motor oil. Take it and put a nice, light coat right around, so the O-ring will go in easily.
Okay, got the pump with the O-ring installed. The hole kind of goes towards the top. You can see this hole is going to line up right there. Go in and start the bolts, and then we'll just slowly and evenly tighten the bolts up and push it into place. So we've got them in. Just going to get them evenly finger tight. Basically, just a few turns of each one, and just keep working our way around, nice and evenly. We want to tighten these to 18 foot-pounds. I'm going to tighten them to 10, first, and then I'll tighten them to 18. Now to 18.
Put our pulley back on. Stick a bolt in there. Get it started, just to kind of get it lined up. Put them in finger tight first. Then we'll just get them kind of snug, but you'll tighten them the final amount once the belt's on. Put your belt back on. Make a loop. Stick it between the idler and the pulley on the tensioner. Force it down, and put a loop around the AC. Compressor down here. Then take your belt and put it down around the crankshaft pulley, and then it comes up and around your water pump pulley. Then it goes around your power steering pulley, and underneath this idler, and underneath this idler. Then it's ready to go up onto the alternator.
Use your half inch ratchet. Put it into the tensioner pulley. Push down as far as you can, then bring this one up onto the alternator. Slowly release the tension there, and then just check and make sure it's on the alternator. Make sure it's around the crank pulley correctly, and around your A/C compressor correctly, and around your power steering, and it's in place. We'll torque these bolts now, to 18 foot-pounds. Again, if you put your wrench across the middle of the pulley, it won't spin the pulley as easily.
To reinstall, put it down in. Make sure it goes onto the water pump shaft. Be careful to make sure it goes on straight. Use the wrench to hold it in place. Again, tighten it up with the 36 millimeter wrench. Bring your bracket and lead up, and got her hooked. Hose here, it has to snake under here. Your vehicle may have a stud down here that it bolts into. Ours doesn't. Then use this 8 millimeter bolt. We'll tighten that up. Reconnect the lead. Make sure it clicks.
Feed the shroud down in. You can see there's holes in the shroud. They correspond to tabs on the lower shroud. Lower it down back, down in. Get one side, and then make sure you can feed the other side in, too. Lift it up gently, get this clip on, and make sure it goes back down correctly. You can also pull out on the lower shroud a little bit to help line things up.
Then reinstall our two 10 millimeter bolts: one on this side, and same location on the other side. We'll tighten those up.
Put your upper radiator hose back in, in place. Squeeze the clamp, bring it into place, and release. Power steering reservoir—bring it back into place. It has a little tab down here that inserts into the upper radiator shroud, and the 8 millimeter bolt that holds it.
Get your air hose back in place. Make sure it goes on there correctly. Then tighten up this one with a flat blade screwdriver. Then we connect the sensors. Make sure you hear a click.
Put your radiator overflow bottle in place. This tab goes into a slot down in here, and then this harness may be connected on here. As you can see, the clip has come undone on ours. Slide the bottle into place. Put your two 10 millimeter bolts on. Tighten those up. We'll reconnect this hose.
We'll refill the radiator first, and then fill the coolant bottle. Run the engine. Let the air bleed out of the system. Let the vehicle cool down. Refill it, and then just make sure you check your radiator fluid the first few times that you drive the vehicle. Put the cap back on once you fill it
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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