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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
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New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new brake pads and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, a 10 and 21mm socket and ratchet, a hammer, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, wire brush, torque wrench, brake grease and jack and jack stands.
Pry off the hub cap and then remove these 21mm lug nuts and you just want to loosen them each up while the vehicle's still on the ground. Then you want to jack the vehicle up and support it and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Then your wheel will pull free.
With your wheel off, you can do a quick inspection. You just want to feel with the back of your fingernails the rotor and you're just feeling for any deep grooves. You're going to have slight grooves. You can see the brake pads. Actually you can see them better right through here. There's the brake pad and then the rotor and the brake pad. You can see, actually, the rear brakes on this look fairly new but we're going to replace them anyways just to show you.
We'll remove these two 10mm bolts. A good idea, just to help you get it apart, take a large screwdriver or pry bar and you can just pry against the rotor and just do it slowly and easily. If you get a good enough grip, you can actually push the piston all the way back in, which is what you want to do. Then you want to pull the top up first and then pull that right off. Now the rotor will pull right off.
To remove your shoes, you want to remove the outer one first. Pry it with a screwdriver and just pull the shoe this way a little bit, pry out, and the inner one just pulls right out. These are the surfaces that your brake pads slide on and what can happen is, as these trucks age, this cast iron bracket, caliper bracket . water will get in between the bracket and slide and it will start rusting and that will cause these slides to actually expand a little bit and they'll seize your pads into the one spot and your brakes really won't work. First just clean the slide itself off with a wire brush and then we want to remove the slide. Just pry out these end tabs a little bit and now we want to wire brush the caliper bracket itself, as well.
I'm seeing just a little bit of scale here so I'm just going to take a chisel and if yours is in good shape, you don't have to worry about this but I'm just going to scrape it down some. Then there's two little indents here, the indents on the slide go to the outside, just put it in place. Then we're just going to put some brake grease on the slides. We've repeated the entire process for the slide up above it and then we're just going to apply some brake grease to that as well.
On the right, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the left, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.You want to push the piston back in. I was able to do that with a screwdriver at an earlier step but if you wanted to make sure, you could use a large C-clamp and take the C-clamp and press it back in. You can also just put your old brake pad in there for something for the C-clamp to be able to push on.
I'm putting my old brakes back on because as you saw they're in good shape and when you put the rotor on, make sure it goes on. You want a little bit of contact from the emergency brake shoes. You can see there's a lot of play so we're going to adjust the emergency brake shoes. On this side, we're going to go down and it's exposing more threads so that means it's pushing the emergency brake shoes out. The rotor still has quite a bit of play, so we'll continue to adjust it.
For the inner pad, again I'm using my original ones because they're in good shape. It goes into the caliper and then the outer one pushes in. Here you want to make sure these are nice and free, push them that way so it will go on. You might have to pull them out a little bit and they go right in. We'll just fast forward as Mike replaces those two 10mm bolts and tightens them up. Now torque both of those to 17 foot-pounds.
We'll fast forward as Mike replaces the wheel and then replaces those lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and torque each of the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace that hub cap.
After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pad until it firms up and then doing a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Okay friends, one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support your vehicle so your wheels is off the ground. Once you've done that, continue on by using a small pry bar or even a screwdriver. We're gonna find the area on this little plate that we can remove it. You can see there's a little cutout and that's all you do. Use your 21-millimeter socket and remove all six lug nuts.
Remove your wheel. If your brake caliper looks like this, obviously, you're gonna wanna clean it down before you proceed. If you were to look on the inside area where the pads/the bracket is right there, you're gonna be able to see the bolts for the slider coming through. I like to try to spray that down on both of them, just kind of as a little helped me out in the long run type of deal. And I'll get this side right there using a 10-millimeter. Let's see if we can get these to break free. There's one. I'm gonna leave it in there just like that. Start the other one the same way. Let's get these mounting bolts right out of here.
Now, we're gonna be replacing this caliper, but if you're not replacing the caliper, you don't necessarily need to remove it from the vehicle. Moving along, you can use your small pry bar. If you were to come right along your caliper and the bracket, you could try to pry a little bit. But what you're gonna see is on the outer pad, it has a little piton that's supposed to hold it from coming off. First, I'm gonna push right on this area. That's a little clip that holds the pad from moving. Then I'll use my pry bar to try to pry this away from the vehicle. Awesome. Once you have your caliper completely drained and as much of the brake fluid off your hands as possible so you don't contaminate your pads, we're gonna take our pry bar right here. And I'm just gonna try to go right in between this area here and here.
And you can see that there's a little piton and that should go through that hole for the pad. Once you get it so it's pulled out of the hole, you should be able to lift out on the pad. There's the piton, there's the hole. Do the same on the other side, and then slide the pad out. We'll do the same for this one. You just kind of grab it, wiggle it. And it should slide right out. These little pitons fit right inside that hole on the piston. Set that aside. With the new caliper, what I like to do is I always try to peel this boot back and push on the slider so that I can get to this portion right here.
We want to make sure that this is well lubricated. The reason for that is because, well, lubrication needs to be in there. Otherwise, moisture can get in, and then it's gonna seize this up and then your caliper won't function properly. We'll get both of these up and ready. Now, we're just gonna take some nice caliper grease here. And we're just going to lubricate the slider a little bit. You don't have to put very much on this area because as you push it in, you're gonna notice that it kind of just pushes it away. But while I'm doing that, I'm also gonna come on the inside of this slider boot. Go like that. And on the inside here, I like to put quite a bit. Make sure it's nice and lubricated right down inside there.
Take your slider, wiggle it, push it on in there. It's gonna start pushing through, just take your finger, go along the lip like that, and then make sure the boot's completely situated. That looks great. I'm gonna get the rest of the lubricant that wasn't used all off of there, and why not just put it on this one? Let me slide that in just a teeny bit. Lubricate the inside of this boot as well, especially up along this area on the inside. That's gonna be one of the main areas to make sure you have lubricant. Go ahead and slide that in all the way up, bring it back and forth. That's gonna work in the grease. That's awesome. Well, now we can't stop just there. We're gonna continue on with that lubricant and we're gonna go right along the piston here.
The reason why we're going along the piston and these ears right along here is to help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Those look great. At this point, the caliper is pretty much prepped. I just like to kind of clean up whatever mess I might have on there. Make it neat and tidy. So, now that we have the caliber cleaned and prepped, we're gonna continue on by cleaning and prepping this area where the caliper needs to mount to. If you were to look along this area, you're gonna see that there's a metal tin. We're going to have to replace this, or at least clean it up.
If you take a pry bar and a hammer, usually you can get them to break free, just pry it right off of there. If you look inside here, a lot of times you're gonna see rust and build up. If you see rust and build up in here, more than likely, you're also gonna have it on this. So, of course, you're gonna need to clean this area up. We'll do the same to both. Looking all along here, I can see a whole bunch of raised areas. This is a lot of rot build-up. Like I said, that's gonna cause an issue with braking so we need to make sure we get it off there.
If for some reason you have a hard time getting this off and you don't think that you can get it because your hammers just keeps bonking up against the rotor, it shouldn't be too much of an issue, you could just remove the rotor. And now you have a nice, clear area to be able to do anything you need. Sometimes trying to clean up this area with the hammer and the little chisel, you're gonna get off the majority of it, but it's not gonna be nice and smooth and clean. It needs to be. You can get yourself one of these tools with the little sand dIsk and try to clean it up as much as possible, or even just use nice sanding block.
So, we've got this area nice and cleaned up on both of them. That's great. Now, assuming you took your rotor off, if you were to look behind it, you're probably gonna see a whole big mess at this point. There's probably going to be a lot of rust and everything inside this area. You wanna make sure you get out as much of that as possible, because if any of it falls out and just kind of comes inside the rotor, you're obviously gonna hear a brake noise. While we're in here cleaning this up, I always like to spray down this area right here. That's the area where your e-brake is gonna pivot from the backside and it should spread the e-brake shoes. If it doesn't pivot here, obviously you're gonna have an issue.
Continuing on, it's time to clean up the hub area of the axle, where the rotor's gonna ride. Looking at the hub area of your axle, you can see where it's going to go into the differential. Make sure you don't see any fluid coming out of here. If you do, your differential seal's leaking right there. Once you have this hub area cleaned up as much as possible, I always like to use a little bit of copper never-seize. Now, using a little bit of the caliper grease, we're gonna coat the area where those tins are gonna ride. I always like to put this on there. It's gonna help with rust and everything. You don't want any more rust building up under there.
And, of course, the inner edges there. Now we're gonna put on our tins. You'll notice that they're both the same. You look at the backside, you've got the slot where this is gonna go. Go ahead and slide it on over that. If for some reason it just doesn't wanna fit on there, you can use a small hammer and just help it along. Do the same to the other one.
Before you go ahead and put your brand new rotor on the vehicle, you always wanna make sure you clean it down first. It's gonna come with a nice coating on it that's gonna help prevent rust or anything else. So, a little bit of parts cleaner, a nice clean rag, clean down those braking surfaces. You're gonna notice on the front side, you have a braking surface. On the rear side, you're gonna have your braking surface here, but you also need to pay attention to this area along there, which is where the e-brake is gonna be. Clean down all that area.
That's perfect. Let's get it on the truck. Before we go ahead and get the rotor on there, you wamma inspect your e-brake adjuster. Make sure it's nice and clean and spray it down with some penetrant so you can adjust it. Next, we're gonna grab our rotor, put it on there. Test the e-brake to make sure that the e-brake shoes hold up against the rotor. Now taking your nice rotor, let's go ahead and get it up on here. Should just slide right on. There we are. Give it a little spin, make sure it's not dragging on those e-brake shoes.
You also wanna test your e-brake real quick just to make sure that it is actually gonna grab the way that it should. If it doesn't, you need to adjust it a little bit. Looking at our old pads compared to our new pad, what you're probably gonna notice inside your kit is that it has a pad that looks like this with a little piton. One's gonna be on this side and the other one will be on the other side. Just compare it to your original pads that way there you know which side you're dealing with. Now that we've figured that out, let's get the caliper off of here. We'll set it right up top there where we can easily get to it.
You're gonna start by installing your inner pad. Take the inner pad with the three prongs and go ahead and put it right inside that caliper piston. Should slide right in. There we are. As you start sliding this in, you wanna pay attention to those ears right here and then, of course, the pitons. Those pitons need to line up with the holes and the ears will hold it against. There we are. Double-check to make sure it's seated completely. If it looks like it's kind of off at an angle, you probably just don't have your piton inside the hole there. This looks great.
Now we're gonna continue on by installing the caliper, starting with the bottom area first because if you look at the outer pad, you'll see that it has the double ear. Slide that right over both sides of the bracket area there, and then be careful for your slider. Slider area right here needs to be pushed so it's all the way facing towards the inside of the vehicle as much as possible. Slide it right down on and over, and then give it a nice loving bonk. And it should pretty much lock in. Now we're gonna put in our slider bolts. Now that we have both of our slider bolts, I'll call it your prerogative if you wanna add a little bit of thread locker. Once you've done whatever you needed to do, go ahead and slide them both in and then start them both in by hand. That's super important. Once they're both started, go ahead and bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.
Let's talk these caliper slider bolts to 22 foot pounds. Now, it's time to get our wheel back up on here. We're gonna start on all of our lug nuts. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 150 foot pounds. Let's get these torqued to 150 foot pounds. Now that we have them all torque, it's important to make sure you get your cover back on there. There you are. Okay, take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
