2008 Lincoln Navigator Rear Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA14752

All right, friends, to get started on our rear brake job, let's go ahead and safely raise and support the vehicle. Remove our center cover, then remove all six lug nuts so we can get the wheel off. Now from the backside of the caliper, you're going to go ahead and remove these little covers, and then we're going to remove these 7-millimeter Allen head bolts that hold the sliders.

Let's use a pry bar, remove the caliper, go ahead and grab on to those sliders, take them right out, we'll set those aside for cleaning. At this point, we have the pads tool inside the caliper, so let's get him out of there. Just going to come along this edge and pry that off. Do the same over here. Here we are. Go ahead and remove the inner pad by removing it from the actual caliper piston itself, it's got a clamp in there. Set that aside for recycling.

Now you want to check your caliper to make sure you don't see any fluid leaking from around this area. If you see fluid, it's more than likely brake fluid, in which case the caliper's garbage. This looks great. So let's set it aside. Let's go ahead and remove the rotor. Now, let's remove our caliper bracket bolts. Let's go ahead and clean down the e-brake shoe area. Let that dry. Now, the next thing that we're going to want to do is clean up our mating surfaces on the hub. Let's clean down the braking surface. And then, of course, don't forget this area where the e-brake shoes are going to ride.

Over on the bench, we need to make sure we clean up the bracket. When we clean it, we want to sand this area right along here, and along the backside as well. That's going to make it so the pad can move. And of course, you want to do that on both sides of the bracket. Now we're just going to lightly coat the areas that we sanded with something that's going to help keep the moisture away. Do the same to the other side.

Now, back over at the truck, let's go ahead and make sure that our caliper piston's pushed all the way back. Next, take a rag, roll it up a little bit, and get inside this area here. That's where the slider is going to be. You want to be free and clear. Do both. All right, now that we have the caliper done, let's make sure that we clean up the slider pins so you want to make sure that they're free and clear of any debris or build-up. You also want to clean up the threading on your mounting bolts. And of course, use a little bit of red thread locker.

Let's go ahead and add a little bit of lubricant to these sliders. And then we'll put them right in from the backside, and then through these slider boots. Let's take a little bit of caliper grease just go along the piston and of course, along the backside of both ears. This is for the contact points. Time to get the pads onto the caliper. You want the rounded area of the inner pad so it's facing down and into the upper area of the caliper. Set it in just like this, squeeze it so the tabs squeeze in. You should hear it latch in. Now it's going to be time for the outer pad. Just take it, slide it over the top like this, goes right in.

Now it's going to be time to install the bracket. Let's go ahead and put these in, snug them up, and then we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Now let's go ahead and install our caliper. Now it's gonna be time to install the caliper. We want to pay special attention to this area. There we are. Start in both of the sliders, snug them up, and torque them to 28 foot-pounds. Install your covers. Let's go ahead and get the wheel back up on here. We'll start all the lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 150 foot-pounds. Torqued. All right, friends, now all you have to do is go ahead and pump up that brake pedal so it's nice and firm, check your brake fluid, take it for a road test.