Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Rear Strut & Spring Assemblies
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Rear Struts 2003-07 Honda Accord
How to Replace Strut Assembly 2003-07 Honda Accord
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2003-07 Honda Accord
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2003-2007 Honda Accord
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2004-2008 Acura TL
How to Replace Rear Strut Spring Assembly 2003-2007 Honda Accord
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Link 1998-2007 Honda Accord
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Endlinks 2003-2007 Honda Accord
Created on:
Tools used
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
17mm Socket
19mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
1. Removing the Rear Seat
Pull out on the T-handle on either side and pull the seat up
Remove the 10mm bolt from the seat on each side pillar
Insert the key to the lock to unlock the seat
Lay the back seat down
Remove the side pillar on each side
Unclip the black seat trim from the plastic tabs
Remove the two nuts from the strut tower mounting bolts (not the spring-loaded center bolt)
2. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
3. Removing the Rear Strut
Loosen the bottom 17mm nut from the strut
Remove the 17mm bolt
Remove the 14mm bolt from the upper sway bar link bracket
Set the bracket to the side
Pry the shock down and out with a pry bar
4. Installing the Rear Strut
Remove the two upper nuts from the strut
Using a pry bar, set the rear strut into place
Place the upper nuts on by hand
Tighten the upper nuts with a 15mm socket and ratchet
Torque the bolts to 37 foot-pounds
Insert the lower end of the strut into place and put the bolt in by hand
Tighten the 17mm lower bolt to the bottom of the strut
Tighten the 14mm bolt to the upper sway bar link bracket
Torque the bottom strut bolt to 43 foot-pounds
5. Reinstalling the Seat
Reinstall the top black trim to the back seat
Clip the pillar trim to both sides
Tighten the 10mm bolt to the trim on both sides
Press the back into place
Line up the seat belts and snap the bottom of the seat in on both sides
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the 19mm lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today we have a 07 Accord in the shop, and we're going to do rear strut assemblies. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
There's two pull taps located for the bottom seat. There's one here and one there right in that area. So you reach your fingers and you can see feel like a little "T" handle. Pull out on the handle and pull out. And then do the same on that side. I'm going to grab mine from the center here and keep a firm hand and pull down. Once this is up, you'll see a little head of a bolt right here 10mm socket. I'm going to take this one off and the same on that side.
Take my 10mm socket. And then I'm going to do the same thing on the other side. Now you take your ignition key and you put it in the lock back here and you hit unlock. Pull the seat down. And now we have the side pillar that's unbolted from the bottom. I'm going to lift up on it and push that aside. Do the same to the other side. Now with the trim tool, I'm just going up in here and just pull up on the plastic tabs.
Here we go. With a 14mm socket, I'm going to disconnect the tops of the strut tower mounts. I'm not going to touch that center that is the spring load. I had to get a quarter-inch set to get to that back one because of the plastic in the way. 19mm socket to loosen up the lug nuts. I'm to use a two-post lift to raise my vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands at home. Now I can take my 19mm socket. Now that I've raised it up, I can remove the lug nuts to take the tire off.
To remove the bottom mount of the strut the 17mm socket. I'm just going to put a socket on there with an extension, get my long ratchet and break that free.
There we go. The next thing I do is I'm going to remove this bolt that holds the bracket to the upper sway bar link, and that way I get more bottom throw out on the bottom of the strut housing. It's a 14mm socket that takes that bolt right out of there. I can just set that aside and move that way so I got more throw here for my lower shock. And there you have it. Just had to get a better angle. There it is.
Here we have the new rear start to our '07 Honda Accord from 1A Auto, and here we have the original equipment we just pulled out. They're both the same link as you can see. Coils are the same diameter, comes with new bumper and dust boot. Comes with two new locking nuts on the strut mount for the top and a new rubber seal that will get nice and compressed in there to stop any road noise. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
I'm going to dismount the two locking nuts for the strut cap for the inside of the cab with the compartment. Set these aside. I'm going to fish this back in. It's going to go between the link. Get my pry bar. So pull down on the suspension, and then you're going to fish the new strut into the link and the bracket.
Pry this down, and get this in the fender well. Now with the strut in the fender well, I can lift it up and line it up in the top. Let's see if I can hook that through. See if I can now pry this down far enough. It looks like I got enough on there. Now I'm going to lower the vehicle and put the two top nuts on the mount so I can work down below and not have this fall down. So now I'm gently going to put the nuts on by hand only because I don't want the whole strut assembly to fall back down through.
Sweet. Now I'm going to get my socket and tighten that down. So the new nuts to the strut mount are at 15mm socket. I'm just alternating it back and forth and tightening it down snugging it. The torque specs for this are 37 foot-pounds. Okay, we're ready to go down below again.
So now with my long pry bar I'm going to pull down on the suspension and see if I can get the bottom part of the strut at least started before I remount the sway bar link bracket on the other side. There we go. So now that part is lined up. I can put the bracket on and thread that bolt through. So now I'm going to line up the sway bar link bracket to the knuckle and start this bolt. I'm not going to tighten that up until I've threaded this bolt completely through and started it.
I'm leaving that bracket loose. It was easier for me to start the threads. Just in case if you tighten that bracket up and it's just a 1mm off of the threaded hole, you can end up stripping that nut and ruining the bolt. It's easier to make sure the main bolt is threaded through and then tighten up that bracket.
Now I'm going to tighten up that bracket with a 14mm socket. Now we can torque the main bolt on the bottom of the strut. So now I'm going to torque it and the factory specs is 43 foot-pounds. It's a 17mm socket.
Reinstall the top piece trim. Move the seatbelt out of the way. Actually it doesn't have to go away. Line this keyway up with the latch that releases the seats, and the lip goes on the top of that plastic piece. You can guide them right in, and you'll see where the plastic clips go and just push down. All set.
So you have to make sure you get this bottom eyelet in the middle bracket and this top one in that bracket. With the seatbelt out of the way, now the bottom on is in. There we go. Now it's lined up. You can see the trim better on the door casing. Now we're going to have to repeat that process on that side. Okay, seatbelts are all lined up. Except for this side.
Push it back and snap it down in. That side's down. Now repeat the process on the other side. 19mm socket. Now we're going to torque the wheels up. The wheel torque on this particular model is 80 foot-pounds. Make sure you do it in a star pattern--crisscross. And then double-check.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
12mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
17mm Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Partially raise the vehicle with the wheel still contacting the ground
Loosen the 19 mm lug nuts
Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Replace one lug nut loosely
Hammer the tire from the back side if the wheel is stuck
Remove the last lug nut and the wheel
2. Removing the Strut
Remove the 14 mm lower strut bolt
Remove the 17 mm nut from the 17 mm wishbone bolt and remove the bolt
Remove the wishbone from the bottom of the strut
Remove the three 14 mm and two 12 mm nuts from the top strut mount
Remove the strut from the top mount
Remove the upper control arm cotter pin
Remove the 17 mm upper control arm castle nut
Hit the upper knuckle to release the ball joint stud
Remove the 10 mm nut securing the ABS wire bracket to the upper control arm
Move the knuckle forward to remove the strut
3. Installing the Strut
Insert the strut top mounting studs into position
Install the three 14 mm top mount nuts and the two 12 mm nuts
Torque the three 14 mm nuts to 37 ft-lb
Torque the two 12 mm nuts to 16 ft-lb
Insert the lower strut into the wishbone
Install the 14 mm lower strut bolt
Torque the 14 mm lower strut bolt to 32 ft-lb
Align the wishbone with the lower control arm
Install the 17 mm bolt and tighten the 17 mm nut onto it
Torque the 17 mm wishbone bolt to 47 ft-lb
Insert the upper control arm ball joint into the knuckle
Install the ball joint castle nut
Torque the ball joint castle nut to 35 ft-lb
Continue tightening to align the castle nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud
Install the new cotter pin
Install the ABS wire bracket onto the upper control arm
Install the 10mm nut securing the bracket
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the lug nuts
Replace the lug nuts and tighten them in a star pattern
Lower the vehicle with the wheel lightly touching the ground
Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs
Lower the vehicle completely
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto and today we have an '07 Honda Accord in the shop and we're going to be doing front strut assemblies. If you need those parts or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
19 millimeter socket to loosen up the lug nuts. Now I'm going to raise and support my vehicle with my two-post lift and you can use jack stands with a jack.
And now we're clear to remove the tire.
14 millimeter socket. I'm going to take the lower strut bolt out. Make sure you pre-spray to help yourself for a smoother job. The threads on this go through the wishbone. There is not a nut on the other side. The pinch bolt has to come all the way out because of the actual strut itself has a indent in it for where the bolt lines up through the wishbone. So don't think you're going to cheat it and just loosen it up and see if you can slide this out. You won't be able to.
17 millimeter wrench and 17 millimeter socket and we're going to take the wishbone bolt out.
Just take a hammer and tap it out. So now I'm going to remove the wishbone from the bottom part of the strut.
Perfect. Now we can lower our vehicle and undo the top of the strut bolts and slide her out. Now we've lowered our car so we can access the top of the strut. There are three 14 millimeter socket style nuts and two 12 millimeter socket nuts. These do have to come out. Our new strut from 1A Auto comes with the actual all five nuts so we don't have to reuse the old ones.
We'll leave that one on because now the strut's going to feel ... want to drop down.
That's the great thing about this being at this height now. I can reach in with one hand and hold the strut and take this top one off. Take the last nut out.
Now, you can see that there's no, not much room to get this strut out, so at this point I'm going to strongly suggest we undo the top nut to the control arm. Just make your life a little easier. You're moving the upper control on ball joint castle nut. I got to discard the old cotter pin, see if she can come out without breaking.
Beautiful. We discard that because we got a new one. 17 millimeter socket and we're going to take off the upper control arm castle nut.
Now I'm going to hit this right here with a hammer and that ball joint will pop right out of the knuckle.
10 millimeter socket. We'll take this mounting bolt off the control arm. This little nut that holds the AVS wire on. I normally would have done that before. I just forgot. Now you can move the knuckle forward and guide the strut out.
Here we have our new front strut for an '07 Honda Accord from 1A Auto and here we have the actual factory strut. Now you can see that they're same style. The one from 1A Auto has the same keyway and the notch for the bolt. Comes with new bumpers and cover, strut assembly, strut's springs are the same size, same amount of coils. Strut cap, comes with a new strut cap and it comes with five new locking nuts. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
So I'm going to line the strut cap with the two bolts that go for that cross member bar and then the cap studs themselves. So I can try to get this to go up in there. The front here.
Now I lowered it so that I can hopefully hold the strut and and thread onto the bolts.
The new size of the socket for the new stretch nuts is a 15 milliliter. We're going to snug these down, then we'll torque them to spec. And the two nuts that go on the little cross-member bar is a 13 millimeter socket now. So the three strut mount nuts, three identical ones, are 37 foot-pounds, and the two cross-member nuts is 16 foot-pounds.
Now we're going to reattach the wishbone on the lower strut. Make sure we line that up best we can. Got to find that notch. The only problem with, you might need a mirror so you see the keyway. The torque specs for this lower strut bolt into the wishbone is 32 foot-pounds.
Now we had to take a pry bar and we'll just prying it into the wishbone like this so that we can turn that lower part. so it lines up with the control arm.
Now we can line that up for the bolt to go through. Might need to take a hammer and tap it. Just give it a little fine tuning. I'm going to actually take my punch that I used. See if I can do this. Let's see how far up in the side away off. So we'll take the pry bar and twist it the same time. There we go.
17 millimeter socket. We're just going to snug that right down. Then we'll torque it to the manufacturer specs. 'K that's snug. I'm going to get my torque wrench. Low wishbone bolt that goes through the lower control arm is 47 foot-pounds. Now we're going to attach our upper control arm to the knuckle. Take them ... Here we go. Here we go.
Do the upper castle nut for the control arm ball joint is 35 foot-pounds. Now let's see. Well the keyway is right there for the actual cotter pin. This will also help me know if the stud is turning while I tighten this. Nope. A little bit more.
So you can see I went past the torque, but that's because the cotter pin didn't line up with the hole and you have to go tighten, never loosen to get the cotter pin in. I used a new cotter pin that came with the upper control arm. Slide that right in to the side hole. No.
So what's happening is the control arm is in the way of the length of the new cotter pin. So I'm just going to manipulate it down and that way I don't have to ... there's only one hole on this ball joint. I would have to take the whole thing out to turn the stud. Here we go.
Last is the ABS bracket. It lines right up. There's a little mounting hole for the bracket. Let that guide sit right in there. That's a 10 millimeter socket. Tighten that down.
Now we're ready to put our wheel back on.
I'm just going to snug them up by hand and then I'll lower it down on the ground. Let the weight of the vehicle on it, and I'll torque the wheel to 80 foot-pounds. 19 millimeter socket. We're going to torque the wheel to 80 foot-pounds in a star pattern.
Double check.
Now we're going to repeat the process on the other side.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Locking Pliers
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Partially raise the vehicle with the wheel still contacting the ground
Loosen the 19 mm lug nuts
Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Replace one lug nut loosely
Hammer the tire from the back side if the wheel is stuck
Remove the last lug nut and the wheel
2. Removing the Front Sway Bar Links
Remove the 14 mm lower end link nut, holding the stud with locking pliers if it is spinning
Remove the 14 mm upper end link nut, holding the stud with locking pliers if it is spinning
Remove the sway bar link
3. Installing the Front Sway Bar Links
Insert the upper sway bar link into the sway bar and thread the new 15 mm nut onto it
Insert the lower sway bar link into the lower control arm and thread the new 15 mm nut onto it
Tighten the nuts, carefully using locking pliers, or a hex wrench, if the studs spin
Torque the sway bar link nuts to 22 ft-lb, if able
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the lug nuts
Replace the lug nuts and tighten them in a star pattern
Lower the vehicle with the wheel lightly touching the ground
Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs
Lower the vehicle completely
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey, everyone. Sue, here, from 1A Auto. Today, we have an 07 Honda Accord in our shop, and we're going to be showing how to remove and install the front sway bar links. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
19 millimeter socket to loosen up the lug nuts. Now I'm going to raise and support my vehicle with my two post lift. You can use jack stands with a jack. Now we're clear to remove the tire.
14 millimeter wrench, I'm going to break that nut free and then of course it's going to spin. So I'm going to have to hold the inner part of it. There is an Allen head right here, but there's no way I can get there from that wishbone. I can do it on the top one, but not on the lower. So I'm going to have to hold the inner piece of metal with a pair of locking pliers.
Make sure you can get your wrench out. There we go. I'm going to remove the upper swivel link to the sway bar. 14 millimeter sock wrench again. See how much we can get before it starts to spin. It's spinning. Okay, so we'll put some locking pliers on the back just like I did on the bottom. See if I can hold that firm.
Wonderful. Now we can remove the sway bar link from the actual linking control arm. I'm going to just take a pry bar and see if I can pry that free.
To install the front sway bar link, it's just basically two reverse procedure. I like to put the sway bar link into the top of the sway bar first. The new nuts are a 15 millimeter, not a 14. It still has the Allen head in the center, which is a five millimeter Allen head.
Now I'm going to put the lower one in. Start the nut. With the wishbone in the way, I have found that it's kind of difficult to put an Allen head in there and hold that. So you're going to have to use a pair of the needle nose vise grips like I did to remove it just being careful, not pinching the new boot, using a gear wrench, ratchet wrench. I'm going to snug that pretty much as tight as I can get it because I'm going to end up torquing it.
Now I'm going to start the bottom. Put a pair of locking pliers on there, needle nose locking pliers. See if I can catch it without pinching that boot as careful as I can be. I'm going to put a longer wrench on here to tighten this because obviously I can't get a torque wrench in there. The specs for this is 22 foot pounds.
Now I can put a torque wrench on the top. So we're going to torque this to 22 foot pounds. Okay. Now we're ready to put our wheel back on. I'm just going to snug them up by hand then I'll lower it down on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on it and I'll torque the wheel to 80 foot pounds.
19 millimeter socket, and we're going to torque the wheel to 80 foot pounds in a star pattern. Double check. Now we're going to repeat the process on the other side.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
12mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Socket Extensions
14mm Socket
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Punch
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
5mm Hex Wrench
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
14mm Socket
Hammer
17mm Wrench
Blowtorch
17mm Socket
Center Punch
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Gloves
3/16 Allen Wrench
Wheel Chocks
10mm Socket
Door Panel Removal Tool
Ratchet
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
5mm Hex Wrench
14mm Wrench
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Rear Sway Bar Link
Break the nuts free with a 14mm wrench
Counter-hold with a 5mm Allen bit
Remove the upper nut with a 14mm wrench
If necessary, secure the backside of the upper nut with locking pliers
Remove the nut with a 14mm socket, ratchet, and socket extension
Counter-hold with a 5mm Allen key
Remove the lower nut with a 14mm wrench
If necessary, secure the backside of the upper nut with locking pliers
Remove the nut with a 14mm socket, ratchet, and socket extension
3. Installing the Rear Sway Bar Link
Insert the sway bar link into place
Secure the nuts with a 14mm wrench (bottom nut first) and tighten with a 15mm socket and ratchet
Torque the bolts to 29 foot-pounds
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. And today on our 07 Honda Accord we have in the shop, we're going to do rear sway bar links. If you need those parts or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
19 millimeter socket to loosen up the lug nuts. I'm going to use a two post lift to raise my vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands at home. Now I can take my 19 millimeter socket, now that I've raised it up, I can remove the lug nuts to take the tire off.
Rear sway bar links, 14 millimeter wrench. I'm going to place that on the top link on the nut. My nut, and it's a five millimeter Allen head socket that goes right in the center of it. I'm just going to give it a little tap right in there. I pre-sprayed but I'm going to spray again cause of the weathering element. See if I can make sure there's no rust sticking there. Okay now I'm going to put my ratchet on there.
Let's see if we made enough room that we can actually put a pair of locking pliers in the back there. And then we'll use a socket. Now I have a pair of needle nose locking pliers and there's a metal lip, washer flat side on the other side. Once I loosen it up enough, I can grab it with these and lock this down. Now I can put a socket on there. And that's just the top. Got the bottom to go.
Okay the lower sway bar link, we're going to do the same thing. Just have a little bit more room to work with. I'm going to put the locking pliers on there. 14 millimeter socket. Marvelous, look at that.
Here we have our brand new sway bar link from 1A Auto, and here I have the manufacturer's one I just took off our 07 Honda Accord. It's still the original equipment by the looks of it and you can see their design. They put the Allen head and a little flat washer there. With a 1A one, puts a space for our open end wrench and the new nuts. They're both sealed units, non-greasable. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
Now we're going to reinstall our new rear wheel sway bar links and we're going to install the one of the bar first. Start the nut. Now we have the freedom of moving it back and forth, nut down. The inside bolt hex is a 14 millimeter open end wrench, and the outside is a 15 mm. So 14 mm on the inside, that open-end wrench. And 15 mm socket. I'm just going to snug them because the torque specs is 29 foot pounds. So I'll snug that one and now I'll get to this one.
So I'm going to torque them now to 29 foot-pounds. Now we're just going to repeat the process on the other side. 19 millimeter socket. We're going to torque the wheels up. The wheel torque on this particular model is 80 foot pounds. Make sure you do it in the star pattern, criss-cross and then double check.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
14mm Socket
17mm Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Locking Pliers
Gloves
3/16 Allen Wrench
Floor Jack
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
PSA56329
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.20/ 5.05
5 reviews
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Great!!
S
April 8, 2020
The strut/spring assemblies fit like a glove and arrived in a timely fashion as well. I already bought a few other parts for my honda and installed them no prob. The how-to videos are also a godsend!
Struts and spring assembly
Suzette
September 24, 2020
I have no regrets buying my car parts at A1 auto you guys are magnificent it work perfectly I love it my car needed it a long time I'm going to continue to buy car parts at A1 auto customer service is great keep up the good work A1 team ??
Look high quality and fit well, but the ride quality is horrible
M
October 27, 2020
I had been very happy with all my previous purchases of 1a auto part, but I regret buying this set. I bought and installed this set a couple of months ago. My previous set of factory struts had 120k miles on them, so I expected to notice a difference after installing these new ones. However, the difference I experienced was the opposite of what I expected. The ride became unbearably stiff and I now feel every single bump in the road. The car feels much worse than before. I really dislike driving my car since I installed these and I would not reccomend.
These struts are great
robin
May 11, 2021
Smooth ride fully restored to my 18 year old ride
Struts
Neville
July 15, 2021
Great Product ??..
At a great price ??
Customer Q&A
Does the suspension lower the car more?September 22, 2016
Henry M
10
No not at all
September 22, 2016
Keith L
10
no, OEM height for all our suspension
September 26, 2016
Brian F
A1 AUTO; MY VIN # begins with J for JAPANESE BUILD and not all parts are the same as USA built Accords!??? So will they fit perfectly???September 12, 2021
RICHARD S
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
September 13, 2021
Ricale A
Why dont the front complete shocks with box p/ns (1ASTS01635) & (SCA70130) SHOW NOT FOUND FOR 2007 HONDA ACCORD SE ???September 29, 2021
RICHARD S
10
The part numbers for the front struts you are referencing have since been superseded with part numbers 1ASTS00658 and 1ASTS00657. The part numbers you have referenced are confirmed to fit all 2007 Hond Accord models.
September 29, 2021
Jessica D
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