Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2005 Volkswagen Jetta. It's the same part and similar process on these Jettas from 2005 to 2009. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new front hub from 1aauto.com; 16, 17, 21, and 27mm socket and ratchet; flat blade screwdriver; a pick; a T30 and T47 Torx bit; a hammer; jack and jack stands; a torque wrench; and a 12mm 12-point bit that we recommend using with an impact gun.
Now, to get started, you want to just pry off this Volkswagen badge, and then using a 27mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, just loosen up that hub bolt. You're not removing it for right now. Now, using your pick, remove these caps. For one of these lug nuts you're going to have to use a key, and the key can be found in your trunk with the spare tire. It just inserts into that special lug nut and then removes the same as the other lug nuts using a 17mm socket. If you have air power tools you can raise your vehicle, then remove the lug nuts. If you don't, loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise and support the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Then your wheel will pull free.
The first thing we're going to do is . there are little plugs here that pry out. Then there are Torx bits in there. There's this one here and this one down here as well. We'll fast forward as Mike removes those two T47 bolts. With a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out this wire clip and pull it free. Just to get things off easier, take a large screwdriver and you just pry a little bit. Now pull your brake caliper off and this first brake pad will just pull right out. Then, for this one, just pull out on either side of it and it will pull out of the piston.
Now remove these two 21mm bolts. You can see Mike uses a piece of pipe for some extra leverage and just removes those. Once those are removed, your caliper bracket will pull free. Now remove this T30 screw at the front of your rotor. Spray some penetrating oil around the edge here where the rotor meets the hub and then twist in one of these lug bolts halfway. Then, using a hammer, just hit the back of the rotor until it breaks free. Then remove that lug bolt and your rotor will pull off.
Now remove this 27mm hub bolt. Now twist it back in just about halfway. Then hammer it and this will help push out the axle on the other side. It won't pull out all the way yet though until you remove these three 16mm nuts. We're just going to speed up this process. Then, using a pry bar, pry down on the lower control arm. Then push the socket back through the hub, and using a hammer push the axle out the rest of the way. Now you can pull the axle free and set it aside.
Then remove these four 12-point 12mm bolts. You want to put the bit in there, and then use your impact gun. If you don't have one, you can use a socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. To get the two towards the back of the vehicle you just want to turn your wheel. Once you've removed all four of them, twist one of them back into place. You only want to twist it in a few thread into the hub and then just hammer the hub until it seems to break free. Then remove that bolt and your hub's free.
On the right, is the old hub. On the left, is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and will fit exactly the same. Start one of the bolts and then push your new hub into place and twist the bolt back in. Then replace the other three bolts and tighten them up. Now I'm going to torque each one of these. It's 70 newton-meters which is about 50 foot-pounds. Then you're supposed to go another quarter of a turn. I can usually get to 50 foot-pounds. Then another about eighth of a turn is what I can manage without feeling like I'm going to strip something out.
Now line up your axle and push it into place. You want to make sure that your steering wheel is centered again. It makes pushing the axle in a lot easier. Then, line up the studs and push them back into the lower control arm and replace those 16mm nuts and tighten them up. Now torque these three 16mm nuts to 50 foot-pounds. Replace that hub bolt. You just want to twist it in as far as you can by hand for right now.
Then replace your rotor and the T30 screw that holds it into place. Now, take your caliper bracket and put it back into place, and replace those two 21mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque each of those 21mm bolts to 90 foot-pounds.
Put your caliper back down into place. Now tighten up those two T47 screws and torque each of those to 30 foot-pounds. Push the wire clip back into place. Replace these two caps.
Now replace your wheel and you'll realize here that lug nuts are a bit easier than lug bolts. You just have to try to hold the wheel in place while you put a lug bolt through. You want to just balance it on the hub. Eventually the bolt will line up and push in. You just want to tighten those up preliminarily and replace and tighten up each of those. Then lower the vehicle and tighten them up the rest of the way. Now torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern and replace your lug nut caps. Now torque that 27mm hub bolt to 150 foot-pounds.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
All right, so we're gonna take the tire off. On most Volkswagens there's little caps that go over these lugs. The caps, you're gonna need the tool from the spare tire kit. You will put in and grab, it's like a hook and you'll pull the cap out. This vehicle does not have those on currently. So we're just going to loosen up the lugs with a 17 millimeter socket and a breaker bar one at a time just a little bit. When raising and jacking this vehicle, you're not gonna want to use a jack or jack stands on here on the control arms or on this aluminum because you may break the aluminum or there. Some places you can jack up from is over here where the pinch weld is.
On this Volkswagen you can see there is specific spots where you are supposed to jack the vehicle or support the vehicle. These little arrows indicate that and right on the pinch weld. It's the strongest part for jacking and supporting. Same over here. This side is a little arrow pointing down. This one it looks like it got smashed a little bit. So we're gonna take off the lugs. Volkswagen has lug bolts, not lug nuts or lug studs. You need to be careful when pulling off the wheel. Then you grab the wheel. It comes right down. Next, we're gonna take off this retainer that holds the caliper to the bracket. You can use needle nose or a straight screwdriver.
Pull that part out first. It comes right off. Now we're gonna pull off the caliper slide bolts, but before we do that there is these caps that go over. I believe this one has one missing but you could just take a small screwdriver, pry it out, and pull it off. Next we're gonna use a seven millimeter Allen and a ratchet to take out the caliper bolts. If it doesn't come out completely and that's okay. It just needs to be backed off so we can pull the caliper off. All right, on this vehicle on the driver's side sometimes they have pad sensors. This is the connector for the pad sensor so before you pull the caliper off on the driver's side you're gonna want to disconnect this one. This one is actually broken as you can see but to release it you just slide that out and you can put a little screwdriver in here straight.
Bend it back slightly. Be careful because the plastic might break. There we go. It clicked and that's good. Now we're gonna pull off the caliper. You're gonna pull straight back. Pull off the pad one at a time. This pad comes out straight like that because there's clips on it. There's the sensor. We're gonna hang our caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn't fall. You don't want to put any strain on the brake line. Next we're gonna take this caliper bracket off. We're gonna take off these two 21 millimeter bolts with a socket and a breaker bar. Work the two bolts loose. Once they're loose you can do it by hand. Pull them out. You're gonna take the bracket, slide it out towards the front of the car.
To get the center cap out, just gonna use this back of a screwdriver, push it through. I'm only gonna put three lug bolts in because we're not gonna be driving this down the road. We just need this to hold the rotor from spinning. Now I'm gonna take the 24 millimeter socket with a long breaker bar and break that free. Use your body weight as leverage. If you need to get a long pipe to add to the breaker bar. Now I'm gonna go with a ratchet. There's the bolt. We're gonna raise the vehicle back up to take the wheel off. We're gonna take the lug nuts off again. Hold the wheel so it does not fall. Now we're gonna want to separate our rotor from the hub. There is this little T30 screw. Gonna use a T30 bit that torques and a ratchet. We'll loosen it. Holding the rotor in case. This one's pretty solid so what we're gonna do is we're gonna put a lug nut in there.
All right, because the rust has built up on the hub it has caused the rotor to stick to the hub. What we're gonna do, we're gonna break that rust free. We're gonna use a hammer. We can hammer all around this area. If you are reusing your rotor you would not want to beat on the surface of the rotor. So sometimes they're harder than that. Worst case you use a bigger hammer or sometimes some rust penetrant. You can spray in the holes and let it sit for awhile. Pull off the rotor. This vehicle is very rusty. You can see that the bolts are rusted and the knuckle area is rusty. We're gonna use some rust penetrating spray. When using the rust penetrant you're gonna want to let it soak for a little bit and that will help to break the bolts free. All right, next we're gonna separate the ball joint from the control arm. That's the easiest way to gain access to the wheel bearing. We're gonna use a 16 millimeter deep socket and extension and a ratchet.
Next we're gonna separate this, pull it out, then we should be able to move the ball joint away from it and pull the axle out. This one came out fairly easily. If it does not come out easily you can put the axle nut back in and tap it with a hammer or even use a socket. Next we're gonna use a triple square. A lot of Volkswagens use these. This one is an M12. We're gonna use it with a 13 millimeter socket and a ratchet. All right, if you move the axle out of the way I'm gonna put the ball joint back in just so that the knuckle won't move so I have more leverage.
See, then the knuckle didn't move when loosening up the bolts. Should be able to do it by hand depending on how rusted the bolts are. Okay, now we got all the bolts out that come from the back and the hub, you can try to pull it but it's pretty rusty on there. We're gonna try to hit it off with a hammer, bang on the back side here. I'm gonna support it while I keep tapping it. As you can see, this is our old bearing, this is our new 1AAuto.com bearing. If you look at it, it is machined the same. There is some slight differences like this channel in here but these surfaces are machined exactly the same. If you look at the bottom it's the same. This is your ABS reluctor on the back side. So the sensor will pick that up as you're going. One way you can tell, this bearing is making noise. You can't hear it on the video but one way to tell if your wheel bearings are bad is when you're going down the road you're hearing almost like a loud groaning noise. It may change pitch when you're going side to side. What we're gonna want to do before we put our new wheel hub assembly on, we're gonna want to clean up this area right here where the hub goes into the knuckle. I'm gonna use a little brake cleaner to clean it off.
All right, I'm gonna use a little bit of anti-seize just in case we ever have to do this again. Just put it, just a light coat. Now we're gonna put our new hub on. There is no up and down. You don't want to go that way but it doesn't matter whether it's top or bottom. It slides right in nice and easy. On the bolts I'm just gonna put a little bit of that anti-seize just in case you ever have to do it again. Now we're gonna put the bolts in. Now we're gonna use wrench. The torque spec is in Newton meters which is 70 Newton meters. This torque wrench is a foot-pounds torque wrench so we converted it to about 50 foot-pounds.
Now I'm gonna separate the control arm again to put the axle back in. I can pull it out of my way. You can put some anti-seize on those spines if you need want but this one slides in really good. We can put our ball joint back in. Put the nuts on. All right, we're gonna use a torque wrench and these nuts are to be torqued to 16 Newton meters. Take our little torque bolt, screw that in. We're gonna put our axle bolt in. It's recommended that you replace this when doing this job but for the sake of the video we are reusing it. Snug it down by hand. Right, we're gonna install the wheel with the center cap off so that we can torque our axle bolt.
Now we're gonna drop the car down again so the tire is just touching the ground. All right, we're gonna tighten down the axle nut. We're gonna tighten it to 52 foot-pounds. We're gonna reinstall our caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor. We're now gonna install our caliper bracket bolts. Now we're gonna torque our caliper bracket bolts. They're to 155 Newton meters on this vehicle. Now we're gonna use some channel locks to compress the piston. I'm gonna do this very gently. You don't want to squeeze too hard. As we're squeezing this, we didn't have to go very far. Normally if your brakes were really bad this piston would be out further. When you compress this, this is pushing brake fluid back into your master cylinder reservoir.
When doing this job, because we're not cracking any lines or taking off any components that have to do with that system we do not have to bleed the brakes after finishing this job. All right, we're gonna take our new brake pads. Stick them in the caliper. These brackets go right into the hold of the piston like so. We're gonna take our other brake pad, put it in the caliper bracket. We're gonna take our caliper keeping the pad sensor out of the way. We're gonna slide on our caliper. You're gonna take your caliper connector. It's the warning when the brakes get thin it will break the connection and it'll tell you your brakes are thin. You plug that into there until it clicks. It'll slide right back onto the bracket.
We're gonna put the caliper slide bolts in. What we want to do is take a little bit of brake grease, grease them up. We're gonna insert our caliper slide bolt. We're gonna use our ratchet and our seven millimeter Allen socket. We're gonna torque these slide bolts to 15 Newton meters. We're gonna install this dust cap. It goes over where the caliper bolt goes in. Next we're gonna put this retainer that goes on the outside of the caliper, keeps the caliper down where it's supposed to be on the pads. What I like to do is push down into the hole using needle nose. That seems to work best. Get it in that hole and you can push the spring.
Make sure you push it down. Now I'm gonna install the tire. Line it up with the holes and hold it. We'll use our 17 millimeter socket to put our lug studs on or lug bolts, whatever you want to call it. Put our center cap on. Now we're gonna torque the lug studs to 120 Newton meters in a star pattern. When you do it in a star pattern it makes the wheel go flush to the brake rotor properly. Whenever you change front end components or remove front end components and reinstall them you always want to go to a local garage and have an alignment performed because you are gonna change the geometry of the wheel and tire going down the road. You do not want premature wear on your tires. You want to make sure you do that and you'll be all set.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
BHA53993
