Replaces
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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before you remove the brake caliper and brake pads, make sure that you disconnect the negative battery terminal. There is an electric brake controller that if the door is opened, the driver's door or even if you accidentally touch the brake pedal, it will activate the braking system and potentially you could have the piston come out of the caliper if you've got this disconnected, so you just want to make sure that the negative terminal of the 12-volt battery is disconnected and put aside before you touch the brake system.
Need to pop the hubcap off. You can use a large, flat bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar. Just kind of work it under the edge of the hubcap. It should pop right off. You can use the 21 mm deep socket and a large breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts of the vehicle on the ground so the wheel doesn't spin on you. This will make it lot easier to take them off once it's up on the jack stands. You're going to raise and support the vehicle. You can do this with a jack and jack stands but we're going to use our two post lift. Finish removing the lug nuts using the socket, and put the wheel and tire aside. Just going to hold onto the wheel because it wants to fall off once I get this lug nut loose. With the wheel and tire off, put it aside.
Before you can remove the caliper, you need to unhook the parking brake cable. I'll just spray a little bit of rust penetrant on here. That'll just help it slide apart. Take some needle nose pliers, grab onto the cable, and at the same time, going to try to pull it up and out. And so we're kind of just popping it out of this little seat where it's sitting. There it is. Pull the cable down and out. So the parking brake cable will just sit like that. Need to remove the parking brake cable from the bracket that's mounted to the rear brake caliper. It has a one-way clip on it.
I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on here. Take the box end part of a 14 mm wrench, slide it over the cable. Go down, it's going to push the clip together. You might have to go in a little bit if you can, and then it's going to pull the cable out. All right. Now I can slide the cable out of the bracket. We'll let it hang there. Now we can remove the lower and upper caliper slide pin bolts. They are 14 mm. Use the closed end of the wrench to loosen them up. Same for the top one. Spin them out by hand and slide the caliper off.
You can't pre-compress the caliper because it does have the parking brake assembly in it, and it will have to be spun back into the caliper to retract it afterwards. So we'll put this aside and it will actually just sit right here on the suspension. You can pop the brake pads out. Push them apart. You'll loosen the lower and upper bracket mounting bolts, so these are 14 mm. Break these free. They might be in there really tight. Can use a 14 mm socket and a long ratchet to get some leverage on these. Got that one loosened. We'll loosen the other one. I actually got them loose enough. Loosen them by hand. We'll hold onto the bracket so it doesn't fall. Put that aside.
And this rotor, it's already pretty loose. If it wasn't, you could spray some rust penetrant along here and then insert some 8 mm bolts and push this off, but it's going to come free, come right off there. Put a bungee cord around the caliper just to hold it in place. Here's the original brake rotor and pads we pulled from our vehicle.
Here's the brand new ones from 1aauto.com. Same exact style, solid rear disc. Same style pads. These particular ones come with new hardware. This will work great and fit great in your vehicle. So inside your brake caliper bracket sits your pad hardware. These are stainless. If you need to, you can reuse them. Use some brake parts cleaner and a wire brush, and you can clean them up. These have little tabs, so I'm going in one direction. Do the same for both sides. Then you can clean them up with a rag and they'll work just as good as new for you. If you have replacement ones, you could take a flat bladed screwdriver and just pop them out. I'm going to pop these out because I do have replacement ones. You'll want to clean where they sit, so again, brake parts cleaner, wire brush. Knock off some of the loose rust. Do the same for both sides.
Install the new hardware. Push them into place. This one's got a little bent. Just bend it back. Next, you can check to make sure your sliders are moving nice and freely. This one's moving pretty freely. This one's really stiff. So if that hardware comes out, that's okay. I'm going to put that aside for now. I'm going to use the 17 mm wrench to try to turn it and get it to move freely. Try to pull it out. Carefully pry back the boot.
Once it's out of the boot, try to work it out of the caliper, out of the caliper bracket. I'm going to put one of the caliper slide bolts in here, help give me a little extra place to grab onto. I'm going to take this hardware out. So this slide pin you can see is really dry. It's corroded. This should be really smooth, nice looking metal with some grease on it. This needs to be serviced because it didn't want to move. This one moves really nicely. Usually the ones with the rubber end move a little bit slower, but they will move, and this one didn't want to move at all. It was very difficult to get out. I'm going to clean it with some brake parts cleaner. Try to brush off some of the buildup. Worst case, you'll have to replace this caliper or at least the slide pin bolts. You can use a scouring pad, brake parts cleaner. That looks a lot better.
I'm just going to clean inside where that slide pin went with some brake parts cleaner. Take some brake caliper grease, grease up this slide pin. Push it back in. Now you can see it moves nice and freely in and out. Make sure this one moves, but I am also going to lube this one up. You can see this one came out. This also had a rubber stopper on it. Sometimes only of them will have that. This one had both, but you can see how this has grease on it. That's why it was moving nice and freely. Just clean off the old grease.
I'm not going to worry about cleaning inside there because it was full of grease and it was moving freely, so I'll just reapply some more to this one, fresh stuff. Put that back in. It moves nice and freely now. Much better. Push these clips into place.
This is ready to be reinstalled on the car. I'm going to reinstall the rotor backwards and just spray it with brake parts cleaner to remove the oil that it's shipped in so it doesn't flash rust. I'm going to make sure this surface is nice and clean. You don't want any oil or dirt contaminating your new brake pads. So I'll just touch the edges and flip it over. It doesn't matter where this is installed. I'll put one of the lug nuts on here so the rotor doesn't flop around while I'm trying to reinstall the brake caliper bracket, and spray down this surface to get rid of the oil coating with brake parts cleaner. Now it's sitting nice and flat. It's not touching the dust shield, so it's not going to make any scraping noise. If it was touching, it might make a noise, and you can just bend that dust shield away.
I'm going to reinstall the rear brake caliper bracket. Get it lined up in place. Got the bolts in my hand, get them threaded in my hand first. Might have to move the bracket around. Same for this one. Going to torque the caliper mounting bracket bolts to 42 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you're all set. Do both. Just give the brake pads a quick spray of brake clean. You don't need to soak them. Just want to make sure there's no grease or oil on there. Take a little bit of caliper grease and put it on the ears, where they'll slide in the caliper hardware. And push them into place. Make sure the wider part of the pad goes towards the outside. Push them in place. Same for the other pad. So these little return springs were missing when we originally took them off. They do go in here. Those little pins right here. They just help keep the pads from rattling. Just sit like that. Unhook the caliper. We sort of had it hooked up here. We didn't want it to fall, but it probably wasn't.
Now, to compress this caliper in, there is a special tool that goes in here to turn it. I'm just going to use some needle nose pliers. Take a little longer, but it should work. Just turning it in clockwise. The reason why you have to turn this one in, you can't just push it in, is because part of it is integrated with the parking brake or emergency brake, and when you pull the emergency brake, it actually ratchets this piston out and holds the brake caliper closed to be used as the emergency brake. So I'll just spin this in. Moving pretty freely. That looks like it's right touching the edge of the seal, so I think that's as far in as it's going to go.
I'm just going to make sure that this faces like that. So with this, I'll make sure I don't loop the hose around. So what's going to happen, there's a pin here at the bottom of the pad. The pin's going to sit in that space here. That's why you have to have this basically up and down vertically. Going to slide it in place. Might have to push the caliper slide pins a little bit. That'll sit in place. I'll get the bolts started. Get the other bolt started. Going to torque the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts to 25 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you're all set. If it does spin, you can counter hold that with a 17 mm. We got lucky, these aren't spinning. Torque the top and the bottom. Calipers are reinstalled.
Now you need to reinstall the parking brake cable, so it's going to go up through the bracket and through the clip. Come on. There it is. Need to get it up into this bracket here. All right, so I'm going to have to pull it with some needle nose pliers. I'm going to pull it up and then try to pry it over with my little pry bar. Not quite. Almost there, so I'll pry it over. Being kind of a bear, but once it pops into place, it'll lock in and you're all set. We'll take our lug nut off that we had on here to hold the brake rotor in place.
Now I can reinstall the wheel and tire. Get it up in place. Try to get them centered as best you can. These lug nuts do have a shoulder on them. The wheel is both hub-centric and then lug-centric, so the lug holes are a little bit wider, and as you turn these in, they're going to center themselves, so get them started by hand. Get this one in as far as I can go, and then reinstall the other three. Four. Get these all threaded in by hand, take the socket and just spin them up. We'll put the vehicle on the ground and torque the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Once it clicks, they're all set. Line up the hole for your valve stem. Push your hubcap into place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Tools used
In the trunk area I'm gonna remove this carpet. And unlock this. And pull this out of the way. And take this cargo piece out. And grab this panel and just slide it out. There is a clip right there. Then pull this cover off. Just a couple of clips right there. Just gives you more access. Then I'm gonna disconnect the negative terminal. You can use a 10-millimeter wrench. And just slide this up and out of the way. That's good.
I'm gonna pull the hubcap off. Just use a prybar. Just get in behind here and pop it off. Now I'm gonna take a 21-millimeter socket, remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
Now I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter wrench and take the caliper bolts off. And if the slide starts spinning, you can hold the slide with some pliers. We'll loosen this one up also. And take this out. And just grab the caliper and just try to slide it off. And you can take a brake caliper hanger and try to attach it to the coil spring. Just so there's no tension on the brake hose. That's good. And you wanna take these springs out. Just use some needle nose pliers and just slide them up. You can grab the pads and slide the pads out.
And we can take this brake caliper bracket off. Use a 14-millimeter socket. Take these two bolts out and slide the bracket off. Now I'm gonna remove the rotor. Now, what you can do is there's two screw holes right here. You can find some bolts that fit those threads. This just helps you remove the rotor. It's good to just put a little bit of pressure on there. You can take a hammer and just give it a tap right here and right there, there you go. And slide the rotor off.
Now I wanna clean up the hub surface. You can use a wire brush. Just get some of that rust off. Or you can use a die grinder. Just be careful, you don't wanna sand it down too much.
I'm just gonna take a little thin coat of anti-seize and just give it a coat. This just prevents rust. Now I'm gonna install the rotor. I'm gonna put it on backwards first. Just take some brake parts cleaner, just wash down the surface of the rotor, just wipe it with a rag. And flip it around, do the same on this side.
Just so the rotor doesn't fall off or move out of place, I'm just gonna take a lug nut and temporarily put it on there. Then we're gonna clean up the caliper. Just grab these caliper slides and slide these out. I'll just take a little brake parts cleaner. Just clean this up and wipe it off. You can do the same in there. Or if you have a, almost like a pipe cleaner, you can clean it out like this. Take a little brake parts cleaner, spray it in there, and just clean it up.
Take a little brake caliper grease. That looks good. And slide it back in. Make sure that seals around the boot. Do the same for the other side. And now we can take off these anti-rattle clips or brake pad clips. Just use a small screwdriver. Slide these off. There we go. And take a wire brush and just clean up some of this rust. And just take a little thin coat of caliper grease, brake caliper grease, just coat in there. And take the new pad slide clips, anti-rattle clips, and slide those in position. You can do another thin coat right on where the pads are gonna contact, just like that. Then you can do the same on the other side.
Now take the caliper bracket and line it up. Install the bolts, then torque those bolts to 42 foot-pounds. Then you can take the brake pads. Now, the one with the squealer or the brake warning indicator is gonna go on the inside and the indicator's gonna be down, facing down. Slide that in position. And take the one without the squealer, put that on the outside.
Now we can take these springs, install those springs. There's two little holes on the brake pad itself. One at the top, one at the bottom. It just stays like that. Now, before I pull the caliper off the hanger, I'm just gonna use this caliper compressing tool. This is the type that spins the piston as it tightens up. All right. Looks good. And as I tighten this up, it's gonna compress the piston.
So you want the piston lined up like this because there is a tab on the brake pads itself on the inboard pad that has to line up in that slot. And take the hanger off. And slide this over. And start the caliper bolts. Now I'm gonna torque this bolt to 25 foot-pounds and I'm just gonna use some pliers to prevent the stud from spinning or the slide from spinning. Do the same on the top.
I'm gonna take this lug nut off and put the wheel on, and put the lug nuts on. Now I can torque this wheel to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that you tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again just double check.
And take the hubcap, line it up with the valve stem. Now just slowly pump on the brake pedal. Just very slow. There's a little bit of an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. You wanna take up that air gap. Now double check the brake fluid, make sure it looks good. Adjust accordingly. And reconnect the 12-volt battery. Tighten down the terminal. Make sure it's not loose. That looks good. And put this cover on first. And this cover. And take this cargo bin, slide that in place. And this cover. And lock it down. And the carpet.
Tools used
In the trunk area, I'm going to remove this carpet and unlock this. And pull this out of the way. Take this cargo piece out. And grab this panel and just slide it out. There is a clip right there. And pull this cover off, just a couple clips right there. Just gives you more access. I'm gonna disconnect the negative terminal. You can use a 10-millimeter wrench. And just slide this up and out of the way. That's good. I'm gonna take the hubcap off. Just use a pry bar. Just get behind here and pry it off. And take our 21-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off. Take a 14-millimeter socket, take these two caliper bolts out.
And just grab the caliper, slide it off. Can take a brake caliper hanger, slide it through there, and then attach it to the coil spring. And take the brake pads off. Slide those out. And take a 17-millimeter socket and take the two caliper bracket bolts out. And slide the bracket back. Now, there's two threaded holes on the brake rotor themselves. You can find some bolts that fit those holes. You don't necessarily have to do this, but it helps to get it off. Get the brake rotor off and just tighten these snug. There we go. Loose, slide it off.
Now, you can take a wire brush and just clean up some of the hub surfaces, get rid of some of that rust or even a die grinder and just clean it up. Just be careful, you don't want to sand off too much material. Just gonna take a little anti-seize and just put a thin coat just on the hub surface just to prevent it from sticking. Now, take the new rotor and just slide it on. I'm going to put it on backwards first and I can wash the backside of this. Just take some brake parts cleaner and a rag and just wipe it down. Flip it around, do the same on this side.
Now, just to hold it on while I'm working on it, I'm just going to take a lug nut and just tighten this down. That'll hold the rotor from tipping out. Now, we're going to take the slide pins out, slide it out like that. Take a little brake parts cleaner and clean off the pin, wipe it off with a rag. And you can clean the inside out as well. Take a rag and just clean this out. And take some brake caliper grease and slide it back in. Make sure the boot gets fully seated. That's good. Then we'll do the same with the other one. All right. Now, I'm going to take these pad slide clips off. Just use a small screwdriver. Slide those off. You can take a wire brush and just clean this up a bit. If it's extremely rusty, you want to do a good job. And just take some brake caliper grease, a nice thin coat. Take the new pad clips. Line those up. There is certain ones that go on a certain side. That's good. We'll take a little more caliper grease and then we'll do the same for the other side. Now, slide the bracket over the rotor, put the bolts back in, and then torque these bolts to 101 foot-pounds.
Now, take the brake pads. You can put the brake pad warnings indicators on. And for the inboard pad on the driver side, you want this at the top. You can always just match up the old pads. And slide these in position. Slide that on. And same with the outside. Take the squealer or warning indicator, slide that one. And that's going to be on the top as well. Now, I'll take the caliper off and use a brake caliper compressor tool. Just get this to line up and just compress the caliper slowly. This is gonna push the fluid back through the hoses back into the master cylinder into the reservoir. Now, the piston is compressed, now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Take the bolts, put the bolts back in, and tighten these bolts to 25 foot-pounds. And if this slide seems like it's starting to spin, just hold it with a wrench or a pair of pliers. That's good. Do the same at the top. Now, I can take this lug nut off. Put the wheel back on. Now, I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And take the hubcap, line up where the valve stem goes, and just push it on. I'm gonna have to lean up against it a little bit. That's good.
Now, just slowly pump on the brake pedal. Just very slow. There's a little bit of an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. You want to take up that air gap. Now, double-check the brake fluid. Make sure it looks good. Adjust accordingly. And reconnect the 12-volt battery, tighten down the terminal. Make sure it's not loose. That looks good. And put this cover on first and this cover and take this cargo bin, slide that into place, and its cover, and lock it down. And the carpet.
Tools used
