Replaces
Recommended for your 2003 Toyota Camry
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before I raise and support the vehicle. I'm going to remove the center cap with a flat bladed screwdriver. There's a little opening right here—just pop it right off. You don't have to take the lug nuts off on this one. I'll put that aside. I want to get to the axle nut, so I can spin it off. It's easier to spin the axle nut off with the wheel on the car and the vehicle on the ground so you're not trying to turn the wheel—otherwise you have to have someone step on the brake for you if the vehicle is up on jack stands.
This particular car has steel wheels. That center cap that pops out from the middle, or that pops out from the outside. If you had a vehicle that has alloy wheels, the center cap might be pushed into the center here. You would have to remove the wheel, pop the cap out, and then replace the wheel to get to this axle nut. This axle nut does not use a cotter pin. It's what they call staked. After it was torqued, it was then punched into this channel here and folded in. That way it can't spin off. To remove it, we're going to need to bend that out.
I'm going to clean some of this dirt and grime out of here. I'm going to switch this little punch. You really just need to get it up just enough so it will spin off the threads. Starting to go. It's not really pushed down very deep into this channel. I'm just going to try removing it with the socket. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on here. I'm going to use a long breaker bar and a 12-point 30 millimeter socket. This is a large impact socket. It's actually an axle nut socket. Put on here. This is why you want the vehicle on the ground, the wheel, because it does take a lot of force to remove it. I'm just going to give it quite a few turns, but I'm not going to remove it all the way.
I just want to be able to spin it easier when the vehicle is up in the air. Now I need to break the lug nuts here. I'm going to use a 21 millimeter deep socket and my breaker bar. Try to loosen up these lug nuts. Now we can raise and support the vehicle, and remove the tire and wheel. I'm going to switch to just the socket and finish removing the lug nuts. The wheel is seized to the hub and rotor. This can be pretty common. I'm going to put a couple lug nuts back on, just lightly. Take our dead blow mallet, we're going to hit right on the tire. It should knock it free. Might take one hit, could take 10 hits, but just give it some good hits with a hammer and it should break free. The lug nuts hold it on there so the wheel doesn't fall off. Now you can take the wheel off and put this aside.
I want to move this axle nut out further because I want to make sure the axle is free from the hub inside, in the splines, before I start to remove other stuff. It's still wants to spin this. This is why you initially do it with the wheel on here. Kind of hold this with a pry bar. Sometimes if you put a lug nut on here, give it a little more secureness. That's good like that. Now I can spray some rust penetrant in here.
There are splines inside the hub where the axle sits, and they do look pretty rusty. I want to get some rust penetrant in there to let it soak. Take our pry bar off. I'm actually going to thread this lug nut down to keep the rotor from flopping around on me. I'm going to take our dead blow mallet. I'm going to tap the axle to try to break it free. Perfect. So, I know that when I undo the ball joint and I go to slide the axle out, it's going to come out of the hub. It's not going to fight me with this moving around because right now it's all nice and secure. It was easy to knock this axle free.
CV axles do have some in and out play on them, so that's what allowed me to do that. I'm going to remove this axle nut even more, but not completely. There we go, perfect. Don't have to go all the way, just a couple threads left. That way once I undo this it won't just like pop out, but that's nice and loose and I don't have to fight with it afterwards when everything else in the suspension is loose.
To unbolt the ball joint from the lower control arm, there's a single bolt here and two nuts here. I'm going to spray them with some rust penetrant. Start on the top with this bolt, and try to get these nuts here. These are 17 millimeter. I'm using a 17 millimeter socket extension and a long ratchet. That's not as bad. Now the bolt. I'm going to remove the bolt first, then I remove the two nuts. I'm going to use this pry bar and separate them.
I've got to pull the control arm down and get it off these studs that are on the ball joint. I'm just going to pry between the ball joint and the control arm, just pop them off, just like that. Now I'm going to undo the axle nut. I'm going to grab the hub rotor, the whole assembly. It's supported by the upper strut. At the same time I'm going to pull the axle out from the back and just kind of separate them. Just like that.
To give myself extra clearance I'm just going to turn the wheel. That's better. That prevents the whole knuckle, the weight of it, from resting on the axle. That should help me remove it. Driver's side axle goes over here and into the transmission. It is possible that when you undo this, you may lose some transmission fluid, so you should have a drain pan handy.
I'm going to use a pry bar to kind of find the edge of the axle. This little slot might work. I'm just going to pry against the transmission case. You just have to pop it out of the snap ring. There it is. I just had to bounce the pry bar a bit. Now I'm going to guide it out, don't want to damage the seal on the transmission. We have our axle assembly.
Here's the original driver's side CV axle removed from our vehicle, and our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. There's no core charge on this. It's an exact match as far as dimensions. Has the ABS tone ring. Comes with a new axle nut. Has the same style snap ring that goes into the transmission. This will fit great and work great in our vehicle. I'm going to take off the new axle nut and put that aside. We're going to guide our axle into the transmission.
Go in the same way I took the old one out. I also have to reach in here, and I want to guide it into the transmission. Be careful not to damage the seal. There are splines in the transmission so you might have to turn it a little bit. It should slide right in. Yup, there we go. Now we get it kind of started, kind of go in and then stop. It's at the snap ring. Just to help myself out here I'm going to bungee this out of the way. It's just being very annoying.
Set up and hit it home. It is seated. We did have some transmission fluid leak out, so I'm just going to wipe that out. I'm going to take the bungee cord off now. We're going to put the axle back into the hub, push it out, actually turn the axle, or twist it. Get it lined up in the opening. You might have to turn it a little bit to get the splines to line up. It should slide right on. Capture the new axle nut just a few threads so it doesn't fall off. I'm going to turn this whole assembly straight again. I need this up under here. I'm going to try to pull it down.
Now see I left the axle nut loose, so I do have play this way, I can move it around. I'm going to use a pry bar to pry down on the control arm. I'll move this around, switch hands, get the studs lined up first, push in. There we go. I'm going to get these nuts caught. Now I can use these nuts to pull the ball joint in. Now the bolt hole is closer, so I can reinstall the bolt. I'm going to torque the two nuts and the bolt to 55 foot-pounds. As soon as it clicks, it's all set. I'm going to use the axle nut socket and just thread the axle nut down. Now I did touch the surface with my greasy gloves. I don't want any of that in our brake components, so I'm just going to use some brake parts cleaner and just clean that off. Take this lug nut off.
I'll reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, torque the lug nuts, and then torque the axle nut. I'm going to install the lug nuts by hand. Take the socket and just snug these lug nuts up. They do have a cone seat, and they'll kind of seat themselves into the wheel and align it up. I'm going to lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. I'm going to torque the axle nut to 217 foot-pounds.
Now I need to stake the axle nut so it doesn't spin loose. I'm going to use a punch and a ball peen hammer. I'm going to line it up right at the edge here on the groove. Now it's staked in place. Replace your center cap, it just clips into place. The job is complete.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic. Pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. Use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this for the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. Lug nuts are loose. I can take my socket and finish removing them. Just going to hold on to the wheel. Take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. Don't want to drop it. Drop the lug nut, that's okay. Just don't want the wheel to fall.
Before we can remove this axle nut, we need to bend back the staking. Instead of a cotter pin this is what locks the axle nut in here. Going to take a small punch and a hammer and bend that out so that the nut can be turned off the axle shaft. Going to spray some rust penetrant on the nut and the threads to help it move. This uses a 30 millimeter 12-point deep socket. Take a larger breaker bar, then I'm going to have an assistant sit in the car and step on the brakes so it doesn't turn for me. Then I'll break it free. Someone helping you holding the brakes, take the breaker bar and our socket and turn this off. There it is. Give it a couple good turns while they're holding the brake. Make sure it's moving nice and free. Now going to switch it to a smaller ratchet. Little easier to handle. Work on taking it off the rest of the way. All right. It's pretty loose now. I can take it off with my hands.
For now, I'm just going to keep the old one on there so the axle doesn't slide back out on me while I'm trying to remove it. This ball joint on the tie end needs to be separated from the knuckle so we can turn the knuckle and help push the axle out. So I'm going to remove the cotter pin that's in here. Kind of bend it back with some needle nose pliers. Pull it out.
Now we can remove this castle nut and separate the tie rod end. Spray some rust penetrant on here to help this castle nut come off. 17 millimeter box wrench. Break it free. It's on here pretty tight. Going to use a mallet to break it free. Try to pop this out. This actually came up pretty easily. If this ball joint was stuck in place, you could try to hit here with a hammer to break it free. It sits on a taper. You run the risk of breaking this knuckle if you're hitting it really hard with a hammer.
It's recommended you use a ball joint separator. It just sort of goes on like here and then as you turn it, it separates the ball joint out. It usually snaps out when it breaks free. This one luckily came loose. Pop it right out. Place it aside.
We have already replaced this ball joint, but we need to remove it to pull the axle out. Sometimes these bolts, or these nuts on these studs could be 17 millimeter. On our new one they're 19mm. This is still 17mm on this bolt.
I'm going to start with the 17 millimeter bolt and remove that. Remove these 19 millimeter nuts. I'm going to pull down on the control arm and push up on the knuckle. Pop it out of there. All right. I need to tap the axle through the hub assembly. Just going to use a big dead blow mallet. I've got the nut on here. Just tap it out. Now it's going to come free so I can take the nut out. I'm going to reach behind here and pull it straight out as I separate it from the knuckle. Can turn the knuckle as need be. Stuck in here. Push this out. All right. See the axle is just in the transmission right now.
Get a drain pan ready to catch any transmission fluid that might come out the opening once we remove the axle. Take a pry bar and go right under the edge of the CV axle, up against the transmission and try to pry it out. I'm also holding this end of the axle so it doesn't fall out completely. There it is. Reach up and try to pull it straight out so I don't damage the transmission seal. Then I'm just going to feed it right out of the wheel well.
Here's our old CV axle from our vehicle and our brand new one from 1aauto.com. There's no core on this. It's ready to go. You can see it's the same length, same style, splines that go into the transmission with the lock ring. It's got our ABS tone ring. Has a new axle nut. Also, has the spot where it will get staked when were done. This should fit in the vehicle great and get you back on the road.
This end needs to go in the transmission. We're going to go straight in with it. Switch hands. I can go underneath. I want to guide this straight into the transmission making sure not to damage the axle seal. Kind of find the splines. Just wiggle it in. Once it gets pretty close, I can then take the dead blow mallet and hit it home. There it is. You're going to get the new axle through the hub assembly. Try to turn it. Got the axle nut handy because we're going to capture it after it goes through. Just going to put it right here. Push this away. Want to go all the way in. Might have to turn it. It get lined up with the splines. It'll push through. We're going to grab that axle nut and put it on so it doesn't pop back through. Pull this lower arm down. Move the knuckle over. Get these studs caught. Also, turn this. Get them lined up. Get the bolt caught first. Get these nuts caught. I'm going to snug these down before I torque them. Torque these two nuts and the bolt to 55 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the tie rod end. Turn the knuckle. Reinstall the castle nut. Turn it down a little more. Cotter pin hole lined up. Install a new cotter pin. Install a new cotter pin. Bend it over with my needle nose pliers. With someone holding the brake for you, torque the axle nut to 217 foot-pounds. Now, with it torqued, instead of using a cotter pin, we need to stake this axle nut. So I'm going to use a punch. I'm going to bend the metal right into this groove that's in the axle.
If you've gotten this brake rotor all greasy from touching it, you just want to take some brake parts cleaner and clean it off before you drive the car. Wipe off anything excess with a rag. Those look like rust spots, they'll come right off as soon as you drive it. You just don't want any grease on here.
Reinstall our wheel. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. A taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut side. I'm just using a socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot pounds. Going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. Got to line up the opening of the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
CSA82373
