Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Sway Bar Links
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
How To Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2002-06 Chevy Avalanche
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2000-06 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
How To Replace Sway Bar Link 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
Created on:
Tools used
Reciprocating Saw
Hammer
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the hub cap by loosening the lug nuts
Remove the lug nuts and tire
2. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Using locking pliers to clip onto the top of the stabilizer link
Then remove 14mm bolt from bottom of the stabilizer link
Remove the stabilizer link with a hammer or reciprocating saw
3. Replacing the Stabilizer Link
Put the stabilizer piece back into place
Use four washers, four grommets, and a tube
Use a jack stand to help push it through till it appears through the top
Tighten the 14mm bolt on the stabilizer link
4. Replacing the Wheel
Put the tire in place
Replace and tighten each lug nut
Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 ft/lbs
Torque the center hub nut to 160 ft/lbs
Replace the hub cap and tighten the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 and 2006. We show you on the passenger's side, but on the driver's side it's the same procedure. The items you need for this include a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, a 14mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, locking pliers, a hammer, and a reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle.
Remove your hubcap by loosening up these lug nut caps and pulling the hub cap. Now, you want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to do this while the vehicle is on the ground. You can loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and pull the wheel out. Using locking pliers, clip on to the top of your stabilizer link, and then remove this 14mm bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this.
Now, you want to just hammer the link through. If the link doesn't move, you may have to use a reciprocating saw and cut it. Up top is the old part; below is the new part from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole, then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube; then, before going through the next hole, another washer and grommet; then, on the top another grommet and another washer, then the nut.
Here, we just put the jack underneath the link. That's just to push it up through and compress the washers a little bit so that you can get the nut on the other end. Once I get another nut on, you'll see I just release the jack. You want to obviously be supporting the vehicle with jack stands, and then use your jack to push the bolt of the link up through. Then, you want to tighten up the sway bar link, and you basically want to tighten it up until the rubber bushings are compressed enough so that they're the same diameter as the washers.
Put the wheel back in place, then replace each of your lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap, and just tighten up those lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
13mm Socket
Air Chisel
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
Swivel
13mm Wrench
22mm Socket
Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot.
Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts; remove those.
And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Let's get this little plastic cover out of here. To get out the sway bar links, more than likely, you're gonna have to drop your sway bar. To do that, I would spray right inside this hole right here, try to spray the top area of that bolt, and then from the other side, spray this side as well. While you're at it, why don't you do the other side of the vehicle at the same time? To get this one out, obviously, it's going to be a little bit difficult. You have minimal room here. Go and try to use some sort of pivoting extension or whatever you might have to get up in there. You could also use a 10-millimeter wrench if you have all day.
Let's do the same to the other side. I'm just gonna use a swivel socket to come through this hole. I want to try to find the bolt under there. I'm gonna hold that and then I'm gonna remove the nut on the top.
Okay, so that one broke. So now we're just gonna get the bar off of here. We can move this, try to get this separated real quick. So now we have the sheath. This is a metal sheath that goes over this metal part of the bolt. Odds are that's gonna be completely rotted together. The best thing to do here would be to cut it. If you were to look right down along here, you can see exactly what I'm talking about. They left plenty of room for moisture to get in there. Let's carefully heat up the area. You obviously want to be careful for any rubber such as your axle boot, or even your ABS wire.
Now we have that nice and warm, let's go ahead and hit it was some penetrant spray. Let's clear the area, let that dissipate for a minute.
Let's get the rest of this off of there. It doesn't look like the bushing wants to be coming out at the same time here. Get this out here, get that out of there.
Now when you're replacing the sway bar links or just the bushings, you want to obviously do those as a pair and when they're apart is the best time to do it. So now when we're getting ready to put this on, it's important to make sure you have the smaller bushing on the bottom side, that's going to make it much easier to get up through the hole in the bottom of the control arm.
Get that and the bushing right up in there. Now we're gonna go with the other bushing that has the washer on it like that. Slide it down, get your shank, slide that on there, you've got your other washer, a little thing on there. Slide that like that. This is gonna go through the bar. Now we'll grab our bushing with the washer, slide that right on there and get our locking nut, make sure you put that on as well, obviously.
Now we're gonna do the same to the other side and then we'll jump into putting back on the bushings. Now we're gonna take our 13-millimeter wrench, come through the bottom of that control arm right through the hole and try to hold the bolt. And we'll come up here with our socket and we're gonna snug this up and pay attention to the bushings for how much they try to squish down.
I'm just going to analyze these bushings real quick. What you want to look for is to make sure that they're actually touching up against the bar. They have no room for movement, and you also want to make sure that they're not necessarily squished down like a pancake. If you've done that, you're probably going to damage the bushing. All you want it to be is enough so it touches here, here, here, and then if you could see in there, of course it's touching as well. We'll do the same to the other side. Let's start all of our bolts in here that hold the sway bar bushings in.
We're gonna snug these right up. All right, make sure those are nice and tight and then do the same to the other side of the vehicle.
Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds.Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Pry Bar
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel, then I remove the wheel. So I'm going to use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there, and then underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket and just take the link out. A long bolt goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar, take the link out, all right. So we'll just take the new link apart, and just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first.
And then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer and the bushing. Align this up and slide the bushing and the washer. Pry down on the bar. And then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nuts started. All right, that's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut and a 14-millimeter socket and tighten this down. And then you want to torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Now, put the tire back and lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double Check.
Tools used
13mm Socket
Air Chisel
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
Swivel
13mm Wrench
22mm Socket
Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot.
Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts; remove those.
And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Let's get this little plastic cover out of here. To get out the sway bar links, more than likely, you're gonna have to drop your sway bar. To do that, I would spray right inside this hole right here, try to spray the top area of that bolt, and then from the other side, spray this side as well. While you're at it, why don't you do the other side of the vehicle at the same time? To get this one out, obviously, it's going to be a little bit difficult. You have minimal room here. Go and try to use some sort of pivoting extension or whatever you might have to get up in there. You could also use a 10-millimeter wrench if you have all day.
Let's do the same to the other side. I'm just gonna use a swivel socket to come through this hole. I want to try to find the bolt under there. I'm gonna hold that and then I'm gonna remove the nut on the top.
Okay, so that one broke. So now we're just gonna get the bar off of here. We can move this, try to get this separated real quick. So now we have the sheath. This is a metal sheath that goes over this metal part of the bolt. Odds are that's gonna be completely rotted together. The best thing to do here would be to cut it. If you were to look right down along here, you can see exactly what I'm talking about. They left plenty of room for moisture to get in there. Let's carefully heat up the area. You obviously want to be careful for any rubber such as your axle boot, or even your ABS wire.
Now we have that nice and warm, let's go ahead and hit it was some penetrant spray. Let's clear the area, let that dissipate for a minute.
Let's get the rest of this off of there. It doesn't look like the bushing wants to be coming out at the same time here. Get this out here, get that out of there.
Now when you're replacing the sway bar links or just the bushings, you want to obviously do those as a pair and when they're apart is the best time to do it. So now when we're getting ready to put this on, it's important to make sure you have the smaller bushing on the bottom side, that's going to make it much easier to get up through the hole in the bottom of the control arm.
Get that and the bushing right up in there. Now we're gonna go with the other bushing that has the washer on it like that. Slide it down, get your shank, slide that on there, you've got your other washer, a little thing on there. Slide that like that. This is gonna go through the bar. Now we'll grab our bushing with the washer, slide that right on there and get our locking nut, make sure you put that on as well, obviously.
Now we're gonna do the same to the other side and then we'll jump into putting back on the bushings. Now we're gonna take our 13-millimeter wrench, come through the bottom of that control arm right through the hole and try to hold the bolt. And we'll come up here with our socket and we're gonna snug this up and pay attention to the bushings for how much they try to squish down.
I'm just going to analyze these bushings real quick. What you want to look for is to make sure that they're actually touching up against the bar. They have no room for movement, and you also want to make sure that they're not necessarily squished down like a pancake. If you've done that, you're probably going to damage the bushing. All you want it to be is enough so it touches here, here, here, and then if you could see in there, of course it's touching as well. We'll do the same to the other side. Let's start all of our bolts in here that hold the sway bar bushings in.
We're gonna snug these right up. All right, make sure those are nice and tight and then do the same to the other side of the vehicle.
Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds.Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Hammer
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
PSA56219
In Stock
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