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Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm John from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and the next time you need a car for your vehicle, think of the 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace front struts on this 2007 Pontiac G6. Very much the same for any 2005-2010 G6 as well as the Saturn Aura. We're going to show you the right hand side. The left hand side is the same procedure and we always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs. And speaking of struts you want to get a nice new set of loaded struts from 1AAuto.com. We sell both brand name as well as private label: Jack and Jack stands, 10, 18, and 19 mm sockets, ratchet and breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, and 18 mm wrench and a hammer.
Start out by using just the socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use impact or air tools sometimes. If you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire and grab the suspension and turn the wheels or turn them with the steering wheel and there's a 10 mm bolt that holds the brake line bracket to the strut, remove that.
There are 2, 18 mm nuts on the back side of the strut. You want to use a ratchet, using a breaker bar and a pipe or something here for some extra leverage might be in order but you can see on our vehicle they come off with just a good amount of force. Use an 18 mm wrench to grab onto the nuts part of the stud of the stabilizer link and then use an 18 mm socket. Loosen up the nut and then it comes off. Use a hammer, be careful not to damage the bolts too much. You might want to put a nut on the back of them and although ours came out pretty easy, and just drive those bolts right out. Heading up top underneath the hood, there are three 13 mm bolts that hold the top of the strut in place and we'll fast forward as we remove those. You can remove 2 of them and then just loosen one up most of the way.
And as you're taking that last nut off, you can just keep your hand on the strut and as you take the nut off you will be able to lower the strut out. And then put the strut back in place and yes, you probably will notice that we're just putting the old strut back in. The struts in this car were in fine shape and so we're not usually ones to waste putting a new strut into a car that doesn't need them. We're just kind of doing this to show you how to do it but you put it into place, start one of the nuts on top and then start the other two and you can tighten those up and the top nuts you should torque to 20 to 25 foot pounds.
Back down under now, lift your brake hub assembly and steering knuckle back in to the strut. You can force it in there and you put one of the bolts in, and just kind of put it in a little bit and then as you move the knuckle around on the strut you should be able to get the bolt through. Then make sure you put the bracket back into place and you can get the second bolt through and if you like use a hammer or something just to drive the bolts all the way through. And it should be noted that we do recommend an alignment after you do this because the movement of these struts is something that affects the caster and camber of your wheels.
And torque those nuts to 85 foot pounds. Bring the sway bar link back into place and should you possibly feel the need to replace those sway bar links, 1AAuto.com, we sell those as well but then use a 18 mm wrench and an 18 mm socket and ratchet to tighten up that bolt. That bolt should be tightened somewhere around 70 to 75 foot pounds. Put the bracket that holds your brake hose back into place and start the 10 mm bolt on and tighten it up. Please install the wheel and put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them then tighten them preliminarily.
the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hubcap and I'm going to do that with that 19 mm socket and then I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hubcap for the valve stem and I'll go ahead and fast forward through that.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all 5 of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel is off, we have a nice clear view of our front strut. With that said, anything that you're going to be removing bolts or nut-wise, you want to of course, spray it down with some penetrant.
First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Let's get the brake hose off of here. What we want to do here is just kind of move this brake line a little bit so we can give some slack between the stud and the strut, that way there we can lift this right up and out.
The next thing we need to do is loosen our 36-millimeter axle nut. The reason for that is because when this knuckle is going to want to pull away from the strut, we don't want to put a tug on any of our axle boots. A little bit of penetrant. The next thing you would want to do is either with a center punch, come right into that little dimple and just try to drive this axle into the bearing a little bit, just to give a little bit of slack, or of course, if you don't have a center punch, just put the nut so it matches up evenly, give it a couple loving bonks this way. That's nice and loose.
Next, we're going to remove our 18-millimeter nuts located right here and there. They hold the knuckle to the strut. Grab this bracket, carefully set it aside. These bolts right here are actually going to have to be forced out of the knuckle area. So what I always like to do is just take those nuts and I'm going to start them back on there, a few good threads, and you want to make sure that we're not going to damage the thread of the bolts. Give it a couple of loving bonks. Keep your ABS wire clear, do the same thing to the other one.
If you look at these bolts, you can see they're both the same, and if you look, you can also see that it's splined. That's the reason why it was stuck inside the knuckle.
Now we're going to carefully try to separate these two, but we want to make sure that this doesn't come down too far because once again, we don't want to put a tug on our axle boots, and we definitely don't want to put a tug on our brake line. If you want to have a bungee cord or something that's going to hold it at least away, but safely, that's up to you. There we are. I'm just going to set this right like that. Now we need to get under the hood. Now that we have the hood up, you have a clear view of the strut tower here. With that said, you don't want to touch this center nut. We're only going to remove these three, but when we remove all three, we want to leave one on there just a couple of threads for safety, and then we'll get under, we'll hold onto the strut and then we'll remove that nut.
If for some reason your strut didn't drop down when you removed all three of your nuts like that, it's because it's probably frozen along this area here into the strut tower. Use a little bit of penetrant and then carefully bonk right along here until it finally breaks free. Down like this, I'm just going to hold onto that strut, remove that last nut, and then I can remove it. There it is, friends. One thing that's always a great idea before you go ahead and try to put your new strut into the vehicle, is just line up the strut cap with the way the original was. So a match up from the bottom, make sure it's facing a straight line, and then just set these where they need to be. You can do that fairly easily by just holding the bottom and then turning the cap itself. Okay, friends, now it's going to be time to get our brand new front strut in here. As we do this, I like to mention that I always like to use a little bit of thread locker right on these studs. We'll call it your prerogative, but I recommend it. When we put this in, we want to make sure we line up the bolt holes with the studs coming out of our strut itself.
We'll start on all of our nuts, and then we'll snug them down and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Something that's important to make sure that I mention before we go ahead and put our knuckle up into the strut, is if you were to look along the backside of the knuckle, you might find that there's a lot of corrosion buildup. That's due to the fact that somebody made the knuckle out of aluminum and they put it in with the steel. When you have aluminum with steel, it just corrodes and that's what happens.
So feel along the back. If it feels as though it's raised, you need to make sure you take a chisel or whatever you might happen to have and clean that out. Now that I've got that knuckle cleaned up, let's go ahead and put this up so it's going to line up the bolt holes. Obviously, you want to clean up the threads on your mounting bolts. Something I always like to use is a little bit of red thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and start those through from the front to the back. Grab your two mounting nuts and of course, your bracket for the ABS wire, start it on there. We'll start these nuts, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.
Torque both these nuts to 89 foot-pounds. Let's get our brake hose back in there. It slides right into this little groove, and then of course we'll tighten it up. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. After you've bottomed out your axle nut, torque it to 159 foot-pounds. I like to put a bar straight across these studs like this, you want to be careful and make sure it's flat and not at an angle because you don't want to damage your threads on your studs.
We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now it's going to be time to make sure we go ahead and torque these down. Before we do that though, you need to make sure you have your wheel on the ground with the weight of the vehicle. Let's torque them to 18 foot-pounds.
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Tools used
