2004 Nissan Altima SE Front Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA60043

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Before you lift and support the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Lift and support the vehicle. Lug nuts loose. You can use the 21mm socket with just your hand. Finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel, place it aside.

Replace the outer tire rod ends. Turn the whole hub assembly out so you can reach it. Start by removing this cotter pin. Use needle nose pliers, or side cutters. This one's pretty rusty. I'm going to grab onto it, and get the needle nose pliers in there. Trying to pry it. Pry it against the knuckle, there we go. Before you remove this, you will have to have the car aligned. I'll show you that I will mark this with some tape. Some people like to count the turns that it comes off. I'm just going to put some tape near the lock nut and mark it and thread it on in generally the same measurement or location so it will be close, but it will need to be aligned afterwards. Spray the lower castle nut with some rust penetrate before I try to remove it. It's pretty rusty. Also let's spray some up here on the lock nut to let that set. I'm going to come back to it. It should be ready to go.

I'll take an 18mm wrench and loosen the castle nut. Leave this nut on here for now, but fairly loose because I want to have the entire end captured in the end of the knuckle here so it doesn't try to turn while I undo the lock nut. I'm going to loosen this lock nut or jam nut ever so slightly because afterwards I'm going to take some masking tape and mark where it was so I don't want to thread it all the way back out. I just want to loosen enough so that I can get this tire rod end off. It's a 22mm. Just give it one more turn. So that should be just loose enough to get this outer tire rod off.

I'm going to take some masking tape and just mark where it was in case it moves. I'm just going to wipe off some of rust penetrate oil so the tape will stick. Take some masking tape and just mark where it was. That also keeps the nut from spinning out any further and will keep me in the general area of where it was. We'll remove the castle nut the rest of the way off.

It's pretty rusty, so you use the 18mm to get it off. Ball joint has a taper and it sits into the knuckle here. That's what makes it really tight. You can hit this with a hammer to try to break it free. You have to be very careful, as this knuckle is fragile. You could break the knuckle. It's better to use the ball joint removal tool, or tire rod end removal tool. I'm going to slide this underneath the tire rod end. I may need to turn it a little bit off it' seat. Use the appropriate sized wrench for your ball joint tool and thread it down and this will push the ball joint out of the knuckle. They tend to snap out like that. I was trying to hold the tool so I didn't drop it, but it’s okay. This will come right out with it loose. Tire end will thread right off. Now, you could try to count this if you didn't mark where this was or you moved it. I like putting the tape there, and just thread right off and there it is.

Here's our old tire rod end we pulled for our vehicle. This is our new one from 1AAuto.com. See how they're similar in design? They do have the same threads. The one from 1A Auto comes with a new castle nut. It also comes with a new cotter pin, and if you need a new lock nut, it comes with a new one. It should thread right into place and make our steering nice and tight again.

I'm going to take our new castle nut off. Put that aside. Just start by threading on the new tire rod end. I'm actually going to put it just about where the old one was. It was like that. Clean the grease off that's in here. Put your new tire rod in. Put it right into place. Sometimes you've got to push the ball joint a bit to line it up. Just like that.

Install our new castle nut. Thread the lock nut down. Just tighten it up nice. Use a little razor blade just to get our tape off. Use our 18mm again, and tighten the castle nut. Try and get it nice and tight and line it up with the hole for the cotter pin. Install our new cotter pin. Take needle nose pliers, turn it and bend it over. Tire rod end is replaced.

We reinstall our wheel, and we'll torque the lug nuts. Just going to use the socket to get these lug nuts as tight as you can by hand and torque the wheel afterwards once it's on the ground. Torque on the lug nuts is 73 to 86. I torque these to 80. Cross pattern. Job is complete.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the right hand outer tie rod on this 2003 Nissan Maxima. Obviously the left hand is the same procedure. This is the same for any 2000-2003 Maxima as well as the Infiniti I30.You'll need a new tie rod from 1aauto.com, jack and jack stands, 15-21 mm sockets. You'll need a ratchet and probably a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, pliers, a large hammer, penetrating oil, as well as you will, or we recommend, you get an alignment after you replace a steering component like this.

Let's start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 21 mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar or your tire iron and you'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and the tire.

At this point we're going to measure the distance between the end of the boot and the center of the top of the tie rod. It's roughly 11 and 3/4 inches. Yours might be different. It's always a good idea to use some penetrating oil on the lock nut. Spray that down and let it soak in. With our adjustable wrench, size up the nut holding on to the end of the tie rod, with a 13 mm open ended wrench holding the inner tie rod and free it up. Move the steering wheel to the right to gain better access. We're going to remove the securing cotter pin through the outer tie rod. We're just going to speed it up here as Don tries to get that cotter pin out. We couldn't get the cotter pin fully out, so we're going to use our 19 mm, 1/2 inch wrench and then try and sheer it. In this case we're going to use a little extra leverage with the bar on the end of our wrench. I'll speed it up here as we work that bolt the rest of the way off. Quick summary: we tried to get the cotter pin out. It just wouldn't come out. It was basically frozen in there so what we did is took the pliers and broke the ends off as much as we could and then just got the socket on there and sheered the cotter pin right off by moving the bolt.

To help release the outer tie rod from the spindle we use a hammer and hit against the spindle until it frees up. Now it's free. Pull the inner tie rod with your 14mm wrench and twist off the outer tie rod. OK, speed up and Don did misspeak a little bit there: he is using a 13 mm wrench to hold that tie rod.

We got the old outer tie rod and the new one and you can see that dimensionally they're very close, so when they go back in the alignment should be relatively close to what it was before we removed it. It's always a good idea to put a little anti-seize on the end of your inner tie rod so that if you ever have to replace it again, it'll come off just as easily as this did. Holding the inner tie rod, twist the new tie rod on. Check our length from the end of the boot to the center of the tie rod and it is 11 and 3/4 inches just like it was when we took it out. Place the other tie rod back into the spindle. It can be a little stiff. Now we'll secure the nut and set our torque wrench to 55 foot pounds and we're going to torque the nut. Now what you do is make sure that the hole in the outer tie rod matches the slot or one of the slots on the nut and if it doesn't, giving it a little bit more torque is acceptable to the point where the cotter pin slides through the outer tie rod. Bend the ends that come through back along the side of the nut. With the 13 mm wrench hold your inner tie rod and lock down on the nut. Fast forward here as we take that lug nut back off, put the wheel and tire on, and just put the lugs on by hand first and then preliminarily tighten them. Set your torque wrench to 100 foot pounds and tighten the lug nuts. Use a star pattern. Kind of draw a star pattern as you tighten them and then just recheck them.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto, I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2003 Nissan Altima. It's the same process on these Altimas from 2002 to 2006. We show you how to replace the passenger side sway bar link, but it's the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver; 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm sockets and ratchet with a breaker bar or a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; a 19mm wrench, a hammer, jack and jack stands, and depending on the condition of your vehicle you may also need a torch. Start off by removing your wheel. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then jack it up and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to douse the studs on the end of the links in penetrating oil. There's a 17mm nut to remove there, and then another 17mm nut right down here.

Put a 19mm wrench on the back, and then using your 17mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe or a breaker bar for some extra leverage, you want to just try to break that bolt free and remove it. Because of the condition of our bolt, however, we're forced to use a torch to heat it up so that we can remove it, but once it's heated up, we can remove it with the 19mm wrench and the 17mm socket. Then on this lower bolt, same thing, use a 19mm wrench in the middle there, and then use your 17mm socket and the breaker bar or piece of pipe. Again we have no luck with it and have to use a torch. Again, once it's heated up, it comes right out. Once those nuts are removed, that sway bar will pull right off. You can see in the back is the old sway bar link, and in the front is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see it's identical, and it will mount exactly the same. Feed your sway bar link up and into place and push those studs through those holes. Twist on the 19mm nuts that came with your sway bar. Then tighten both of those up until they're nice and firm. Replace your wheel, hubcap, and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot pounds.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don for 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we'll show you how to replace a front control arm on this 2003 Nissan Altima, it's same process on these Altima's from 2002 to 2006 and we show you on the passenger side but the driver's side is the same process. The items you'll need for this is a new front control arm from 1AAuto.com, 12, 19 and 21 mm sockets and racket with a piece of pipe for extra leverage, 22 mm wrench, penetrating oil, a torque wrench, hammer, pliers and jack and jack stands. After this repair, you will want to have the alignment checked on your vehicle.

Start off by removing your wheel, if you don't have air powered tools you're going to remove the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground and jack it up and remove them the rest of the way.

The first thing on the control arm that you want to do is remove this cotter pin. You just want to straighten out the prongs and pull it out from the other side using pliers. Once you get the pin out, spray it with some penetrating oil to break it loose and then remove it with the 22 mm wrench. Once the nut is removed, hit the knuckle with a hammer and that will allow you to pull this down.

Next, you want to remove this 19 mm bolt. Now you do want to put an additional stand underneath your engine here because to remove the last control arm bolt, you're first going have to remove one of these engine brackets. To do that, you just want to remove the 19 mm bolt on the one end and the two 12 mm bolts on the other. Once those are removed, you can just remove that bracket. Now remove these last two 19 mm bolts holding in your control arm. Once all of those are removed, you just want to pry this out.

Old control arm on the left, the new one from 1A Auto on the right, you can see they're identical and they are going to mount exactly the same. Before you install your new control arm, you want to first remove the castle nut and pull off that plastic cover and then feed your new control arm into place. You may need some assistance from a hammer. You want to do this carefully and we are going to fast forward as he does this but you are just trying to line up the holes on the control arm with the holes on the body of the car. Now you can replace that 19 mm bolt and just hammer it in half way and that will hold the control arm in place. Then replace these two 19 mm bolts and then just tighten them up. Tighten up this bolt the rest of the way.

If you replace bracket and the 19 mm nut and the two 12 mm bolts and then you just want to torque each of these 19 mm bolts to 85 foot pounds. Now you can remove that stand now. Now push the stud of the control arm into the hole in the wheel and replace that nut. We do supply you with a new castle nut. Once you've tightened it up, put the cotter pin into place and using pliers bend the prongs in opposite directions. Replace your wheel, hubcap and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of way. Then you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot pounds.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet.