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Part Details
Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video help you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video we show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2003 Nissan Altima, pretty much the same for any 2002 to 2006. We show you the right hand, the left hand is the same procedure. We do always recommend you replace your brakes in pairs.
The items you'll need for this repair are new brakes pads and rotor kit from 1A Auto.com; 8, 12, 14, 19 and 21 mm sockets with a ratchet. A piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Brake cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench. Raise and remove your wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and support it and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Inspect your brakes. You can look through and see the brake pads, and there's not much left to the brake pads on this vehicle and the rotor is in rough shape, pretty corroded with some large gouges. To just replace the pads you can see we took that top bolt out, but we're going to take the whole rotor off because it's actually frozen on this car.
Its two 19 mm bolts and you can see we use a 19 mm socket with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You'll need to do this if you want to replace the rotor anyways, because you need to take the whole caliper bracket off in order to get the rotor off. Once the bolts are removed, using a flat blade screwdriver pry that off. Then you can set that aside. Your old rotor pulls right off. You want to use a flat blade screwdriver and pop this plug out of the rotor. Spray down your emergency brake assembly with some brake cleaner. Now using brake cleaner wipe down your new rotor. Then you put some brake grease on either end of your brake pads. You can see here's your adjuster for your other brake and that hole in the rotor is so you can reach the adjuster with a screwdriver. Turn it until you feel the parking brake drag on the inside a little bit; once adjusted then you can replace the plug. As we said before, our caliper was in bad shape. We ended up having to replace it, but you can ad lib along with us. You can put your caliper back in place.
Take the pads out of your caliper, and then put the caliper back in place. Put the two 19 mm bolts in place and then tighten them up to 85 - 90 foot pounds. Now you want to remove this 14 mm bolt right here. Once the bolt's removed pull your caliper back and then push, your brake pad slides into place. Once the sides are in place you can put your brake pads back in and push your caliper back into place and replace that 14mm bolt. Fast forward as we tighten that bolt back up to 25 foot pounds. - to your brake lines. Now we're going to fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel. You want to put the lug nuts on preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. After doing any repair on the brakes, before taking it out onto the road it's important to do a couple of things first. First you want to pump the brakes until the brake pedal firms up. Then you want to do a stop test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out; brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before you raise and support the vehicle, take a breaker bar and a 21 millimeter socket and break the lug nuts free while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise and support your vehicle. Once the lug nuts are loose, I can use the socket and finish removing them. Remove the wheel. Place it aside.
Start by grabbing the caliper before you remove it and pushing it, or pulling it outward to try to compress it so that when we go to unbolt it, it will slide away from the brake pads. I want to take a 14 millimeter wrench and see if I can break these free. They're pretty tight. I'm going to use a dead blow mallet and break that one free. Do the same with the bottom one. It goes loose so I can switch to a ratcheting wrench. We use a ratcheting wrench to finish removing these.
Now these are actually the slide bolts and we pull them out. So what I'm going to do – with this lower slide bolt, the control arm is in the way. I can't pull it out. We're going to roll the brake caliper down, I'm just going to thread the lower bolt back in a little bit.
That way it stays put, and I can remove the brake pads. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar. These ones are pretty stuck. Use a small screwdriver. That's okay if they fall on the floor. They’re old brake pads anyways. I'm not too worried about the rear one if I can't get it out because I've kind of released the pressure from it by removing the front one. I'm going to unbolt the bracket and I'm just going to pull the whole thing off together.
I'm going to remove the two 19 millimeter caliper bracket bolts. The lower one is here. The upper one is here. I'm going to start with the upper one, with a 19 millimeter wrench on here. Take my dead blow mallet, break it free. With the top one loosened I will loosen the lower one. Same thing, I'll use a dead blow mallet to break it free. Since these are loose, I'm going to switch to a ratchet and 19 millimeter socket to speed removal. I get that one pretty loose but not all the way out, because I want to work on the bottom one. It's going to need an extension. Try an extension in here, ratchet out here, and this 19 millimeter socket and extension. Now remove the lower bolt and finish removing the top one, the one with the bracket because it will become loose. It needs a little persuasion. It was frozen in there. Now I can unscrew, take off our slide pin bolts, lay the caliper up here for now. Take a bungee cord, just hold it up and out of the way.
The e-brake should be released but this is pretty rusty. There might be a rust ridge in here. I’m going to try to get this rotor off. Normally there's a rubber cap here. You pop that out and you can reach the adjuster and turn the adjuster in to pull the e-brake shoes, which are inside here together to help release this rotor. You may have to do that. I'm going to try spraying some rust penetrant around the edge of the hub and around the studs. I'm going to give it a couple whacks with our dead blow hammer, see if the rotor will just come right off. Otherwise, I'll have to work on releasing the e-brake. We might get lucky. It slid right off without having to release the adjustment. If you had to release the adjustment, you'd use this access hole and you'd go through here and turn this so the shoes would pull themselves in here.
These are our old rotor and pads for our vehicle. They're pretty rusted up. The car was sitting for a while so they needed to be replaced. See the new ones from 1AAuto.com are an exact match in the style of pad, they've got the wear indicators, the backing shims, same amount of lug holes, same opening to get to the e-brake adjuster. These will fit on your car great and help you stop really well.
Install the new rotor. I'm going to start out by installing it backwards. This way I can clean the oil off it that keeps it from corroding in shipping. I'm going to spray the inside because that's where the parking brake shoes are going to run. Take a rag, wipe down any excess, down the inside. Flip it over and install it over the studs.
Since the new rotor is brand new it's thicker and it won't fit over our parking brake adjuster or parking brake shoes, so we need to spin the auto adjuster in to give us more clearance. I'm just going to turn it up with this flat bladed screwdriver. It's going to pull the shoes in. This is automatic adjustment so as soon as you pull the handbrake a couple times or the parking brake handle, it will adjust out and it latches. These little notches lock against the spring, so once it goes this way it can't spin back. It has to be flipped back manually by doing this. Since I touched them, I'm just going to clean them off with brake parts cleaner. Let's try our rotor this time. There it is. So it should slide over with no resistance. I'll take a lug nut to hold the rotor in place.
We're going to remove the brake pad clips. They're stainless. We can clean them up and reuse them. So use a flat bladed screwdriver, pop them out. Pop out both sides. I'm just going to clean where they sit. Take some brake parts cleaner and wire brush and knock off the loose stuff. Repeat for the other side. Then I clean the clips with brake parts cleaner. Then I brush. Reinstall them on the caliper bracket. They click back into place. This is ready to go back on the car.
Unhook our brake caliper. I'm just going to lay it there for a second. You need to compress the piston inside here. Use our C-clamp and an old brake pad, and just gently compress the caliper piston in. That's good. Place these aside.
Before we can install the bracket fully, the lower slide pin that has the rubber bushing on it has to go through the caliper. You can actually start threading in a little bit. It's going to sit here. Because the suspension arm is in the way, I can't slide it in, so it needs to sit like this. Now I can line up the bracket and capture the top bolt. Now I can capture the lower bolt. Start tightening the bolt.
Before you go too far, I skipped it, but we're going to do it now, clean this brake rotor surface down from the protective oil that it's shipped with. You can wipe off any excess with a rag.
Now we can install our pads. Going to make sure that we didn't touch the surface of the pad. If you did, you can just clean with some brake parts cleaner. Put a little bit of caliper grease on the ears. Again, the same thing, make sure these pads are nice and clean. Use a little bit caliper grease.
I’m going to place the outside pad in here. We can slide our caliper back over. I'm going to push the little boot in. Slide our caliper pins in here. Thread them in.
When I had this rotor off and we were cleaning up I actually found the rubber plug that belongs in here, and I replaced that. I'm going to torque the brake caliper carrier bolts, these two big ones back here, torque as 116 to 144. I got my torque wrench set to 120 foot-pounds. For this top one, I don't need the extension. For the caliper slide pins, torque is 20 to 35, got my torque wrench set to 30.
For the final step after installing the wheel and torquing the lug nuts when the car is on the ground, gently step on the brake pedal. What that's going to do is bring the caliper piston out to meet the pads. See right now the brake caliper is loose. It's moving on its slide pins. When you step on the brakes, it pulls it in, pulls the brakes to the rotor. That's what helps you stop. We need to bring that piston out so it takes up the gap that's here and you'll be able to stop.
Install the wheel. Thread them on by hand first. Torque on these is 72 to 85. I've got the torx wrench set to 80 foot-pounds. I'm going in cross pattern. The wheel's installed and torqued.
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