Replaces
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you front strut replacements. This is a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for any 2001-2005 Honda Civic. We show you on the driver's side, but the passenger's side is the same procedure.
Items you'll need include a new strut and spring assembly from 1AAuto.com, 10-21mm sockets, wrenches with ratchet and extension, breaker bar or tire iron, torque wrench, small hammer, needle nose pliers, penetrating oil, jack and jack stands. A front end alignment is recommended after this repair as well.
Remove the front wheel, held on by four 19 millimeter lug nuts. If you have a different style hub cap, you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.
The outer tie rod is right here, 17mm nuts hold it in here. Remove the cotter pin. Then there's a 21mm lock nut, which we're going to use a nice 21mm wrench. As you're looking at it, you're turning it clockwise. We're just going to turn that about a quarter of a turn. If, when you turn this lock nut, you also turn the inner tire rod, just make note of it so that you can turn it back for the same amount, just so that you can get yourself in a good preliminary alignment. You will want to have your vehicle aligned after you do this repair.
Okay, if when you turn this lock nut, you also turn the inner tie rod. Just make note of it, so that you can turn it back the same amount, so that you can get yourself in a good preliminary alignment. You will want to have your vehicle aligned after you do this repair.
Remove the cotter pin. Normally, the pin should drive out easily, but it's giving us a hard time. We're going to use a little bit of penetrating oil. Let it sit for a bit. You may have to use a set of these cutting pliers. We really get half of the cotter pin off. A lot of times, if you've got it off and pretty well damaged, you can just pull the nut off and it will shear it right off as it comes off. Give the steering knuckle a few good taps with the hammer to break the tie rod free.
You want to remove this 12mm bolt and this 10mm bolt. They hold the brake hose and sensor wire. Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the brake caliper in place, here and here. If necessary, use a flat blade screwdriver or a pry bar. Pry out on the caliper a little bit to loosen it up. Then you can take the caliper off.
Take a bungee cord and just secure your caliper back here, so that you don't stress the brake hose. Now we're going to remove the pinch bolts: 21mm nuts and 19mm bolts. 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Get the nuts started. Once the bolts start moving, then hold them, then take them off.
Now we're going to remove these three 13mm nuts. Hit them with a little penetrating oil first. If you have them, substitute in air tools. Leave one of the nuts in place loosely. Remove the two bolts. Then lift up and remove your last nut the rest of the way. Bring your stuff down and out.
The original strut from the vehicle, the new loaded strut from 1A Auto. You can see it comes with a top plate already attached. The spring is compressed and in there. You don't have to worry about compressing a spring or trying to get the bolt off the top plate. You can take out the old assembly from your vehicle, and bolt in the new assembly with a whole lot less hassle. Before you go to install just note that there's three studs, but they're not equi-distant.
There's a larger distance here. This goes toward the outside of the vehicle. Have one of your top nuts ready. Put the strut up in place and again remember that further distance is to the outside. Put one of the nuts on. Just put your other two on by hand.
Okay, you may need to twist your strut a little bit, prep in place. Make sure nothing gets caught up in there. Put one bolt through and put the other bolt through. Put the nuts on by hand. Torque these pinch bolts. There's different torque ratings for 2001, 2002. You want them at 76 foot-pounds and for 2003-2005 models it's 116 foot-pounds. I like to put the suspension up in the regular ride height, so I'm just going to jack it up. Take the weight off my support stands and torque them. With the vehicle still supported tighten these three nuts to 33 foot pounds.
Reinstall the caliper. Just remove your bungee or whatever you might have holding it. Make sure you have some grease on your pads to prevent squeaking. You may have to push your slides in a little bit to get it to go on. Tighten these to 25 foot-pounds.
Reinstall these brackets, 10mm bolt holds the sensor wire and a 12mm bolt holds the brake hose. Put them in and tighten them up. If you've got any grease or anything on your rotors, make sure you wipe them down.
Reinstall your tie rod. Put the castle nut on. Tighten the castle nut to 32-ft/lbs. Then tighten it any more you need to get the cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod. I can see the hole there. Probably need to go another 16th of a turn. Insert the cotter pin.
Use a pair of piers and bend it over. Appropriate size wrench to hold the tie rod; in this case, it's an 18mm. Then 24mm to get our lock nut on the back. Tighten it up.
Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts. We'll tighten them preliminarily and then torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80-ft lbs and just cross in the pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
