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Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front CV axle shaft on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, 10mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a 15mm and 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, jack and jack stands, and a pry bar.
Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then just loosen up this 35mm nut. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to take this nut off all the way at this point. Now, you can loosen your lug nuts as well. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull off.
The next few clips, we remove the brakes. You don't have to do this, but in my opinion it does make it easier to see back in there and get the axle out. There are two 17mm bolts that you remove to remove the caliper, hold the caliper slides with an 18mm wrench, and then pry the caliper up and off. You'll want to secure it somewhere with wire ties so that you don't stress the brake line.
Then you can remove your brake pads. Two 18mm bolts hold the caliper bracket in place. Again, you don't really have to do this, but it just helps to be able to see back in there with the rotor out of the way. Remove the two 18mm bolts using a pipe for some extra leverage, and do this slowly and smoothly so you don't break any knuckles or anything like that. The caliper bracket comes up and off. Then you can remove your caliper either by using a hammer, careful not to damage the rotor at all. If you have to hammer more than just a medium taps, then you'd want to use a couple of M12 bolts. They thread it into the holes in the rotor and help to press the rotor off.
Remove the center hub nut the rest of the way if you haven't already. Using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench, just remove this bolt. Now, using a hammer, just hit the upper control arm off the ball joint. Now, just pry open this clip and pull the harness free. You want to secure your caliper just somewhere out of the way. We just wire-tie it right here onto the backing plate.
Now, you want to remove these two 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, just lift up on the upper control arm and pull this back. Make sure that the axle is loosened from the hub. Okay, to get your axle out, you need to use a pry bar or some other long item. You want to put it up in, and put it on the back of the axle right where it connects to the transmission or the axle I should say. Make sure you're hitting the middle and it comes right out. If you want to do the driver's side, you'll need to remove these four 15mm bolts to pull this panel down in order to access it.
Pull your axle the rest of the way out of the differential. Move stuff around a little bit and then get it going up. I'm just going to angle it up a little bit and get it going up, in, and remove it from the hub. Careful of all your ABS wires and hoses and stuff, eventually it comes out. Up top is the old axle; below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Move the new axle up and in. Again, be careful of all your wires. I just feed it right into the hub. Pull it, move, just maneuver a little bit, and get all the way into your hub. Then pull on it and feed it into the axle. Careful with the seal. You want to put the steering knuckle back up in place as you go so you don't over extend the CB. I'm just going to put that in place, push your axle right in, and make sure it's locked.
Now replace your brake line bracket and the 10mm bolts that hold it into place. You just want to use the upper control arm to hold the wheel knuckle in place while you're doing this. Re-clip this harness. Now hammer your upper control arm back down into the ball joint. Replace the bolt and the nut and tighten them up. You want to tighten and then torque this nut and bolt combination to 55 to 60 foot-pounds.
You want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub. Then you just slide your rotor back into place and replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place and then just start twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Torque these two bolts to 110 foot pounds. Torque each of these to 110 foot pounds. Then just replace your brake pads and if there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease.
Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds. Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place, and then put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Now torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot-pounds. Then replace your hub cap.
After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to start this job is to safely raise and support the vehicle. I like to raise it directly on the frame. Once you have the wheel off the ground, we're gonna remove our center cover. That exposes our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove them all, and then remove the wheel. The next thing I like to do is remove the caliper from the bracket directly. The reason for that is because I like to take a look at the pads when I'm taking everything apart. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter to hold the slider from spinning, and then I'm gonna come right from the backside of the caliper, and I'm gonna remove my 13-millimeter nuts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Okay. I've got both our bolts here. Slide the caliper off. It's always a great idea to inspect the caliper directly. Look along these boots to make sure you don't see any moisture or anything like that, and you also wanna make sure that the piston itself isn't chipped or broken in any way. Let's get the pads off of here. Feels as though this rearward one's frozen in there. There we are. I usually like to turn the wheel a little bit so I can expose these 18-millimeter headed bolts. We're gonna remove both those bolts that holds the bracket to the knuckle. I'm gonna leave that in just a little bit. Remove the other one. Grab that bracket, and remove the other bolt. There it is, friends. Now it's time to remove the rotor.
Next, we're gonna use a little bit of penetrant. We're gonna come right here along where the axle nut is, and then we're gonna come along the wheel bearing where it connects onto the knuckle. We wanna try to spray down that area with some penetrant, and if you can see the bolts coming through the wheel bearing, spray those areas as well. Let's remove that axle nut. The next thing we need to do is make sure that our axle can move around inside the wheel bearing. If for some reason the axle does not slide in and out, take a punch, take a hammer, go right in this center hole, get it to break free. If that's not working, go ahead and spray inside there with some penetrant spray. The next thing we need to do is disconnect and unsecure our ABS wire so when we remove the wheel bearing, it'll be ready to come out. If you were to look at the frame, you're gonna see this area right here. It has a couple wires coming in, a couple wires going out. This area leading towards the front is actually part of the ABS wire we're gonna be removing. So we need to come right here and disconnect this. Just take my little pocket screwdriver. I'll pull it like that until I can see that white piece is pressed up against here, and then you press on this area, and you should be able to take these two apart. There we are.
Now what we need to do is use our little forky tool here or a pry bar or whatever you might have. We're gonna try to get in between this piece and the frame because there's gonna be a little push clip or piton that forces in. I'll show you what it looks like. There it is. That just forces right inside this hole, and it holds it secure. The new wheel bearing is gonna come with all new clips, so you don't have to worry about breaking them. That one out of there. Okay. A lot of times the clips that go up into the control arm, they kinda get stuck up in there. You can try to pry it out of there. More than likely it's gonna break the little piton going up in. So if you wanted to, if you were to look right along this side, you can see an area that we can press with a small pocket screwdriver, and it'll let this come down. That's the way I'm gonna remove this one. Get this one off of here. For this one, you need to squeeze these two tabs right here. Give them a little squeeze with some pliers and should pry off. There we go, friends. Now what we need to do is come from the backside of this knuckle here. If you were to look along where the axle goes through the knuckle, you're gonna see where the bolts are that hold the wheel bearing to the knuckle. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter to remove all 3. There's one of my bolts. Do the same to all.
The next thing that I like to do is use this ABS wire. We're not gonna be reusing it, so this is okay. I'm gonna take it, and I'm just gonna tie it right around the knuckle, just like this. The reason for that is because now what I need to do is start bonking on this with a hammer carefully and try to break it free from the knuckle. When it does break free, the last thing that I want is for it to come shooting off and potentially hurt me. So, this kinda acts as a safety net. Let's go ahead and start hitting this with the hammer. There we are. As you can tell, my safety net worked well. We'll just go ahead and get the backing plate off of here. There it is, friends. The next thing we need to do at this point is to clean up this area. All the areas that you notice where the wheel bearing was sitting up against the knuckle need to be nice and clean. The wheel bearing needs to be able to ground thoroughly through the knuckle. Use something like a scraper, a screwdriver if you have to. You could use a little brush. Use whatever you need to, but try to get off the majority of this rust, especially any raised areas. The next thing we would wanna do is clean up the backing plate the same way. Clean up both sides, the area that's gonna be up against here and then, of course, the area that the bearing's gonna be against. Once you've done that, go ahead and take your bolts. Make sure that they're clean.
These look like they could use a cleanup, so I'm gonna take them to the wire wheel. After I've done that, I'm gonna apply a little bit of threadlocker. So I've got these cleaned up. I've got a little bit of threadlocker on there. The next thing we're gonna do is use a little bit of copper Never-Seez, try to get around the areas where the bearing's gonna be resting in here. It's just gonna help make it come out easier next time. I also like to get the splines on the axle. Now we have our backing plate nice and cleaned up. We did both sides where the bearing's gonna ride like I said. Go ahead and take that ABS wire that comes from your wheel bearing. Slide it right down and through the center there. That's great. Now we're gonna line up the slot with where this is gonna go through, and then we're gonna put the whole unit up on to the knuckle just like this. Now something that's important to remember is that you wanna have the slot in the backing plate facing to where the caliper is. So if I was to put this in like that, it's not gonna be right. You're gonna wanna go twisting it until it lines up right like this. Let's get the ABS wire out of there. Perfect. Let's go ahead and start in those bolts. Now let's just go ahead and bottom out those bolts. Torque these to 77 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get our ABS wire back resecured.
We wanna make sure that it doesn't get damaged by hanging around and flopping and all that stuff. So, just take a look at it and take a look at all the areas that we left on here for clips. Any of those corresponding areas, we'll just take them off of the new one, okay? So I've got this clip that just comes around back here. It's gonna slide in. That's the one we got with the pliers. You remember that one. We'll bring this up through here. This one, obviously, we can take this off of here. We'll recycle that. Once up here, click it in. Same thing right here. We'll get this one off of there as well. Put this up in here. Latch it in. Make sure you give it a nice tug. All right. So now we're just gonna follow this and put it back in everywhere where it goes in. That one in there. Now we'll clip these together. Make sure you lock it in, give it a nice tug, and then secure it. Double-check all your anchor points. Make sure that there's no way that this ABS wire can come loose. The last thing you want is for it to get damaged. The next thing we're gonna do is get our axle nut back on here. I like to use a little bit of threadlocker. We'll put it on, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Now to torque this axle nut, what you're probably gonna find is that as you try to turn this to tighten it, the bearing's gonna keep spinning. To cure that, you can use a nice long pry bar. Come right in between the lug studs.
You wanna make sure it's nice and flat so you don't damage the threads. Now we're gonna torque this to 103 foot-pounds. Going with the assumption you're not replacing your brakes or your rotors, you're gonna wanna clean up the mounting area that goes up against where the bearing is. Now we're gonna go ahead and spray down this area of the hub with some copper Never-Seez. Put our rotor on, and then grab one of your lug nuts and start it in so it holds the rotor so it doesn't move around. Next, it's gonna be time to go ahead and push in the caliper pistons. What you'll notice, if you were trying to use a tool that looks like this, which is what most people have, is you would go inside like this, squeezing this piston. As you squeeze this one in, this one would start coming out. That could be an issue. If you're using this tool, the best way to do it would be to go ahead and take one of your old brake pads and then go ahead and grip right in the center and squeeze it down. For me personally, I have this tool right here. As you crank it, it's gonna push in both these pistons at the same time. You could also use this at the same time if you wanted to. Put this in. Now we're just gonna slowly push in the pistons. The next step for preparing this is we wanna add a tiny bit of lubricant along the pistons themselves and then along each of these three ears.
The reason for doing this is for vibration dampening and noise reduction. Time to get the caliper bracket on. Go ahead and take your caliper bolts and use a tiny bit of threadlocker. Let's get these started. Torque these to 118 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get the brake pads onto the vehicle. What you're gonna notice is you should have some wear indicators. They probably came in your little bag. You can go ahead and squeeze that right onto the pads, and you want them both facing just like this. When we install these, we want the brake indicators facing up. See if I can slide this in here. Should slide in nice and easy. If you have to force it in or use a hammer for any reason, you probably didn't clean up the bracket enough. These look great. Make sure they can move around freely. Go ahead and take that caliper and slide it over. Put it right down on there. Now we're gonna grab our caliper mounting bolts. We've got our caliper bolts with a teeny bit of threadlocker. Start them in, bottom them out, and then we'll torque them down. Let's torque these to 31 foot-pounds. It's always a great idea to double-check everything that you removed and replace. Just make sure everything's secure and good to go. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and get the wheel up on here.
Bring the vehicle down so the tire's just barely touching the ground so we can't spin, and then torque the wheels in a crisscross manner to 103 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get our center cover on here. If you were to turn it around, you might see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with your valve stem and then go ahead and pop it on there. All right. Now I know you think you're done, but you still need to pump up the brake pedal, and then we're gonna go out there and double-check that brake fluid level. Right underneath the hood, you're gonna see your master cylinder. It'll tell you what type of fluid to use. You can give it a little shake and just double-check to make sure you can see it's up at that maximum line.
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.
Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.
Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.
I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.
Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.
Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.
Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.
I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.
Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 15mm and 21mm wrenches, a hammer, torque wrench, pliers, and jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, removed the lug nuts, and removed the wheel and tire.
Next, spray some penetrating oil on this 15mm bolt and then remove it using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench. Now, remove this clip here. Ours is broken, so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you would just pry the clip open with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, just pry this clip open and pull the harness free. You just use a flat blade screwdriver. Push in on the tab and it'll open up. Hit the upper control arm with a hammer to break it free. Hit it up and off the ball joint. Now, you want to secure your wheel knuckle. We're just going to use some wire ties to secure it. You could also use string or wire. You just want to make sure it's not going to move around too much.
Next, you want to remove these two 21mm bolts at the top of the control arm. Start off using a 21mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage. Just break both bolts free. Now we'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts.You won't be able to remove them entirely, but you only need to remove them so that the bolt is not sticking out past the bushing. Sometimes, the bolts may get jammed and not move as far as you need them to. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You want to hit just underneath the upper control arm. The,n you can slide down the front and then remove that bolt the rest of the way by hand. Then angle it and remove the other bolt by hand. If it's jammed in there, you only really need one out. You can angle it and pull it out. Then just use a hammer to remove that other bolt.
As you can see, this upper control arm is in bad shape. You shouldn't have that much play. Now, just pry this clip out using a small flat blade screwdriver. On the right is the old upper control arm.
On the left is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push the back bolt in first and angle it into place. Tip the front of the upper control arm down and put the other bolt in. Then, angle it up into place. Then, just start both of those bolts in by hand until it secures the upper control arm into place. To start off, this bolt at the front, you won't be able to actually get the wrench onto it so just use a pair of pliers to tighten it in a little bit until you can get the wrench on it. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens both of those 21mm bolts up. You're only really tightening these preliminarily.
Remove whatever you used to secure your wheel knuckle. Using a hammer, knock the upper control arm back down onto the ball joint and replace that 15mm bolt and the nut. Then just tighten it up and torque it to 15 foot-pounds. Push your clip into your new upper control arm. Re-clip the harness into it. Re-clip the harness into the clip on the wheel knuckle. Again, since ours is broken, we're just going to use a wire tie.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Have your vehicle back down on the ground with all the weight back on the suspension. Now you tighten up the two bolts that hold the control arm in and you want to tighten them to about roughly a hundred foot-
pounds. I'm pulling them as tight as I can with that wrench. Then, the last thing you want to do is you do want to have your alignment checked and fixed after you perform this repair.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do to start this job is to safely raise and support the vehicle. I like to raise it directly on the frame. Once you have the wheel off the ground, we're going to remove our center cover. That exposes our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove them all and then remove the wheel. Okay. So we took the wheel off so we have a nice, clear view of the sway bar link here. You don't necessarily have to, but it makes it easier to see. What you're going to need is a 7-millimeter Allen head. I'm going to come right in here and I'm just going to give it a couple of nice bonks. Now we're going to take our 21-millimeter wrench, put it right over this nut. The next thing we're going to do is use a ratchet or an air gun, whatever you have, put it on here. And when we turn this, we actually want to try to turn it so we're tightening. It's going to sound weird, but essentially we want the ratchet so it's tightening and the wrench so it's turning to the left. We'll break that free and then we'll go like this, and what you'll notice is it starts loosening up. Remove that completely. There we go. Do the same to the top.
Okay. I'll get my tool off of here. There we are, friends. Once you've compared the new sway bar link to your old sway bar link, it's going to be time for the install. You're going to notice your new sway bar link came with some nice new washers. Those washers are going to go on before you install. Slide them right in, and they're going to go up against this nutted area. Start it in the control arm, and then I'll put it in the sway bar. I'm just going to get this bent down. Slide it right in there. Perfect. We've got our two nuts here. Start them both on. Now it's going to be time to tighten these up. To get onto that nut that's on the inside there, use your 17-millimeter wrench. Now I'm going to use a 21-millimeter and I'm going to snug this up. All right. That bottomed out. Do the same to the other one and then we'll torque them down. Now we're going to torque these to 107 foot-pounds.
It's always a great idea to double-check everything that you removed and replaced. Just make sure everything's secure and good to go. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and get the wheel up on here. Bring the vehicle down so the tire is just barely touching the ground, so it can't spin. And then torque the wheels in a criss-cross manner to 103 foot-pounds. Now it's going to be time to get our center cover on here. If you were to turn it around, you might see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with your valve stem and then go ahead and pop it on there.
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