Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Pull the center cap off. Just use a pry bar. You can use a rag if you don't wanna scratch the wheel. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. Remove the wheel. Now I'm gonna take the caliper off. I'm not gonna take it off separate from the bracket. I'm gonna take it all together off. So just take the bracket bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Take this one out and the one that's a little bit higher up. And just take a pry bar or screwdriver and just pry out the caliper. And you can just set it aside over here. If you want to, you can use a brake caliper hanger, but as long as it sits right there, it should be good. Now I'm gonna remove that screw right there. Use a T-40 socket.
Now I'm gonna take the rotor off. I'm just gonna use a hammer and just tap in these areas. Loosen it up. There we go. Slide it off. Now I'm gonna take this axle nut off. I'm gonna use a 32-millimeter socket. Take that off. All right. Now, I'm just gonna tap the axle a little bit. Use a punch. You don't really wanna hit on the end of it because you don't wanna mushroom the end of it and it'll prevent putting the axle nut on later. So just make sure it's loose. You don't have to hammer it all the way in, just make sure you see movement, which is good. Now I'm gonna pull the wheel speed sensor out. Let's use an 8-millimeter socket. Take this bolt out. Take that bolt out. Let's use some needle nose pliers. Try to twist it a little bit. Try not to break it. And slide it out and just set it aside. I'm gonna take these bolts out. I'm using an 18-millimeter socket. There's three that you can see right here and there's a fourth one on the other side of the axle.
All right. Take these bolts out. And then the other one right there. Just hit the backside with a hammer. There we go. Slide it out. All right. Just take some... You could take some Emery cloth or some sandpaper and just sand down any corrosion. Brake parts cleaner. Just clean it up. I'm just gonna put a little thin coat of anti-seize on here just to prevent corrosion. All right. Take the hub and line it up. The two holes at the top are closer together than the two at the bottom. And take the bolts. Get the bolts started from the backside. And now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds.
Now I take the axle nut, put the old axle nut on, and I'm gonna take a pry bar and just go in between the lugs. And you wanna make sure you don't...you don't wanna put the wheel on here and torque it with the weight of the vehicle on it. You wanna make sure there's no load on the actual wheel bearing. And torque this to 258-foot-pounds. Now, what that's gonna do is that's gonna seat the axle. What you need to do next is take this nut off and put a new nut on and torque that to 258. Take the wheel speed sensor and slide that back in position. Put the bolt in and snug that up. That's good.
If you want, you can put some anti-seize right there. Put the rotor back on, line it up with the hole, and put the screw back in and just snug that up and take the brake caliper and just slide it over the rotor. Put the bolts on and torque these bolts to 76-foot-pounds. And put the wheel on. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 110-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Take the center cap and line it up. Tap it on.
Tools used
Tools used
Take the center cap off. Just use a pry bar. You can use a rag underneath, so you don't scratch anything. Use a 19-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off. Now, we're going to take the caliper and the bracket off together. Just take the caliper bracket bolts off using the 18-millimeter socket. Now, take the caliper off, and use a brake caliper hanger, and attach it to the coil spring. Just make sure the brake hose doesn't have any tension on it. Now, I'm going to take this screw out, and use a T40 socket, and slide the rotor off.
Now, we're going to take this nut off, and use a 32-millimeter socket. I just want to loosen up the axle from the hub assembly. Just take a punch and a hammer. Just give it a couple of taps. You don't have to push it in too far. Just get it a little bit loose. That looks good. Now, we want to take the ABS sensor out, our wheel speed sensor out. I'm going to use a 8-millimeter socket. Take this bolt out. Take that bolt out, and just take some needle nose pliers and just slide it out. Put it aside. There's four bolts on the backside of the knuckle. Take those bolts out. Use an 18-millimeter socket.
All right. So, these bolts are loose, but I'm not going to take them out completely because the CV joint is in the way. But as long as they're loose, then we can take a hammer to the hub. Just hit the backside of the hub. Just go back and forth, side to side, and just take the punch. Hummer the axle through. Just should slide right up. Take this spacer and make sure you put this on before...I just put a little grease on the back, so that it stays secure. Just on the axle. I'm just going to use a little bit of anti-seize. Just put a nice thin coat just to keep some of the corrosion away.
Take the hub and just slide it on. You can get the bolts started. I'm going to use a torque wrench and torque these bolts, all 4 of those, to 122 foot-pounds. And take the ABS sensor, a little speed sensor, slide that back into position, put the bolt in, and just snug that bolt up. It's good. All right, take the old nut, put the old nut on, and I'm just going to snug it up. So, there's a special procedure for torquing this nut. In the procedure, they tell you not to lower the vehicle down on the ground to torque the nut. What they mean by that is, don't have the wheel on, and have the weight of the vehicle on the spindle, or the wheel bearing while you're tightening it up.
So, what you want to do is take a pry bar, and just slide it between the lugs. And use the torque wrench. Torque the old nut to 258 foot-pounds. All right, now that seats the hub bearing to the axle. What you're supposed to do is remove that nut, put a brand new nut on, and re-torque it to 258 foot-pounds. All right, just take a thin coat of anti-seize. Put it on the hub. Take the rotor, put the rotor on, and make sure you line up that hole with the threads. Put the screw in, and just snug it up. That's good.
Yeah, now, take the caliper off the hanger, and put it back on the rotor. And get the bolts started, and now torque these to 122 foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on. Put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm going to torque the wheels to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern, so I tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double-check. Center cap. Line it up. Just tap it on.
Tools used
Take the center cap off. You can use a pry bar, you can use a rag so you don't scratch anything. Just get under here, pop it off. Then we're gonna take these lug nuts off. Use a 19-millimeter socket and set the wheel off.
So, I'm gonna remove this nut right here. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. And to prevent the stud from spinning, I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter wrench. Take that off. All right. Now, I'm gonna take the lower nut off. The stud is probably gonna spin, but I'm gonna try just taking it off first. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. And yes, that's spinning. All right. So, I'll use a 15-millimeter ratchet wrench and a 7-millimeter socket just to hold the stud from spinning. And loosen up the nut and take the nut off, and you can slide the link right out. We can take this cover off the old one, take the new link and slide it through the cover just like that and slide it right back through the sway bar, back through the knuckle, and put the nuts on. Then I'm gonna take a 17-millimeter ratchet wrench and the 7-millimeter socket to hold the stud from spinning and tighten it up. Snug that up. I'm gonna snug the other one up before I torque both of them. Do the same. And I'll torque these nuts to the 41 foot-pounds.
All right. Put the wheel back on. And put the lug nuts on, then I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds and I'm gonna do it in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Take the center cap, line it up and tap it on.
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