Kit Includes: (1) Front Passenger Side Strut & Spring Assembly (1) Front Driver Side Strut & Spring Assembly
Specification
Side Location
Driver & Passenger Side
Trim
GT
Location
Front
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Loaded Struts: Pre-assembled application specific design
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Matched Pair: Improved comfort and extended service life
Restored Performance: Reduced body sway and vibration
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Install or Replace Front Struts on Any Vehicle Full Guide
How to Replace Front Strut 2005-14 Ford Mustang
Created on:
Tools used
Hammer
Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
Complete Metric Wrench Set
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
Complete Metric Socket Set
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Strut
Remove the bolt(s) from the bottom of the strut
Disconnect any sensors or hoses
Turn the wheel
Remove any nuts from the sway bar link attached to the strut
Removing the nuts on top of the strut
3. Reinstalling the Strut
Insert the strut into place
Insert the nuts to the strut to hold it in place
Knock the bottom of the control arm to knock it into the strut or work the strut into place
Tighten the two lower bolts to the strut
Torque the bottom strut bolts
Reinstall the sway bar link
Reinstall any harnesses or hoses attached to the strut
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front struts. This is a 2005 Ford F-150. It's exactly the same for any 2004, the new body style, through the 2008, and probably the same for 2009 and up. We show you on the driver's side, but the passenger's side is the same procedure and we do recommend you replace them in pairs. You'll need new front struts from www.1aauto.com, sockets from 8mm up to 30mm, a pipe or a breaker bar for leverage, a 12mm 12-point socket, 18mm and 21mm wrenches, pliers, pry bar, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off the hubcap. Then loosen up these lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way and take the tire off. You want to life the whole front of the car up and put it on jack stands with both wheels off the ground. Now pull the wheel off. Now turn the wheel, and remove this 21mm nut at the top of your outer tire rod. Then once you remove it, you want to just put it back on just a couple threads.
Now hammer the knuckle until the outer tire rod drops down. Now you can remove that nut, and just set your outer tire rod off to the side. Underneath your control arm, on the bottom of the sway bar link you want to just remove that nut. You can try doing it with an 18mm ratchet, but most likely it's going to start spinning, and the solution for that is an 18mm wrench and an 8mm socket and ratchet. Then you can just remove that nut. You want to spray the bolt that holds the bottom of your strut, and then a 30mm socket. I'm using a breaker bar and a piece of pipe and break that free. Then once you get it going, the bolt will most likely spin. Hold the bolt end with the 27mm socket and take that nut off.
Then spray these 15mm nuts at the top of the strut with some penetrating fluid, and remove two of them all the way. The other one, you just want to leave on a few threads. Using a pair of pliers, remove this cap. Then loosen up and remove that 13mm nut. Then you want to just put it back on just a few threads. Tap it with a hammer and make sure it goes through. Then remove the nut the rest of the way. On the other end of the axle, there's a series of 12mm bolts. You just need to use a 12mm 12-point socket, and then a pry bar to hold the wheel. Just loosen those up.
You can also just have a helper get in the vehicle, and hold the brakes to hold the axle in place. When you remove that last one, just push the axle down to the side. Now spray this 21mm nut up here on the bottom of your upper control arm. Then remove that nut, and put it back on just a few threads. Now with the nut back on a few threads, just hammer the wheel knuckle until the upper control arm loosens up. Now just lift up on the wheel knuckle, and then remove that nut. Now you can just set the wheel knuckle off to the side carefully.
You don't want it to strain those brake hoses. Then just tap the axle and pull it out of the wheel knuckle. You want to feed the axle towards the left side towards the front of the vehicle. Then just angle it down, and pull it down and out. Now, we're just going to check up underneath the control arm a little bit. The vehicle is still supported on the jack stands under the frame. Remove the bolt from the bottom of the strut, and you can see the struts in there are still loose. Make sure the nuts on the top of the strut are removed. Pry the strut out.
Up top is the old strut. Below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Feed your strut up into place. Push those studs through. Then just replace those nuts at the top to just hold it. You don't need to tighten them up right now. You're just putting them there to hold it in place. Then pry the bottom of the strut back into the lower control arm. Then push that bolt back through. You just make sure it's all the way in. Then replace the nut and tighten it up preliminarily. We'll just fast-forward as Mike goes back over those 15mm nuts making sure they're tightened. Then you can remove the jack.
Feed your axle back into place. You want to feed it back in the same way that you pulled it out. Then just angle it back down into the hub and push it in. Now you can take your upper control arm and push it back into the wheel knuckle. Once you push it through, just put that 21mm nut on there to hold it in place. Line up the axle and replace those 12mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does this. Now tighten each of those to 60 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. You can see we torqued that one. Then you want to turn the wheel until you get the one on the opposite side. Then torque that one. You want to just repeat this process with each of them. Now replace this 13mm nut and torque it to 20 foot-pounds. Then replace that cap and just tap it into place.
If any of the lines on the back came undone, make sure you push them back in and re-clip them. Then push your outer tire rod up to the wheel knuckle and replace the nut. Then torque that to 111 foot-pounds. Now just tighten up this bolt on your upper control arm. If the stud spins, use a 10mm socket and ratchet. Then you want to torque this to 111 foot-pounds. Then tighten up the nut on the bottom of your sway bar link. Jack up underneath the lower control arm to simulate a wheel being in place. Torque the lower strut bolt to 150 foot-pounds.
Now we'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the wheel and replaces the lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then he lowers the vehicle and tightens them the rest of the way. Then torque each of them in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace your hubcap and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
21mm Socket
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Gloves
18mm Wrench
Wheel Chocks
18mm Socket
10mm Socket
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21 millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel, set it aside. The next thing we're gonna do is remove the sway bar link from right here. If you use an 18-millimeter wrench, you can come right inside the backside there and grab onto that, and then an 18-millimeter socket and remove these two. Pull this pull pin off. There we are, that gives us plenty of slack there. Now we're going to use a 10-millimeter right here and remove this one. Let's get the 10-millimeter one here. The next thing we're going to remove is the bolt that holds the knuckle to the strut. Use an 18-millimeter, and then be careful because this will come up and swing around. There we are, and we'll leave that right there. Do the lower one. Same thing, watch out for that thing that comes around. This one looks like it had rotted off so I'm going to grab that with some pliers. All right. Both those bolts are the same. Now I'm going to use a pry bar, come right in between the knuckle and the shock strut. Just kind of pry apart, but be careful because you have your brake line still attached. There we are. Now you just want to hang this so it doesn't put any pressure on your ABS or your brake hose. Use a 13-millimeter, remove these four nuts. Leave that one on there a couple threads. Set those aside. Now I'm going to hold up the shock, remove this nut, take it right out. Awesome.
Let's get ready for install. Okay, getting close. There we go. That was easy. TRQ strut comes with brand new locking nuts so I'm gonna use those. If for some reason you weren't, I would definitely use some threadlocker. Let's bottom these out. Let's torque these to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 26 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here, line this back up. We've got our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of threadlocker on these. And our nuts, that on there. This one's a little bit harder to get to. It's gonna push that bolt out a little bit so I can get the nut on there. Let's bottom these out. Let's torque these bolts to 148 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Let's get the mounting bracket for the brake hose back on here. Make sure you tighten that up. Now clip in the little clip for your ABS wire. Perfect. Okay, now let's bottom these out. Use your 18-millimeter right there, 18-millimeter on this side as well, snug them up. Let's torque these to 85 foot-pounds. Get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now we're gonna bring this down and torque it to manufacturer specification. Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
SCA56952
In Stock
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
4.43/ 5.07
7 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
6
0
0
0
1
Struts for 07 Mustang gt
Shawn
January 31, 2017
Ordered a pair of struts (complete ) got here fast. Quality looking product easy installation did myself with just a few tools . Car rides great nice firm and yet smooth ride. Only have around 100 miles so far. So far so good
Good
Mark
July 16, 2018
Every thing was great thanks for the good service will use againWrite
Not so impressive
Angela
August 12, 2018
The ride is definitely smoother but my old struts were obviously shot. These struts are incredibly noisey and I'll probably end up returning them
Struts 2007 mustang gt
Jeff
January 2, 2019
Had farm&fleet install them. 90 mins. They work great.
Love it
P
May 4, 2019
Saved so much money compared to Auto Zone! Works great. Very easy to install! Definitely will be coming back!
OEM-like in quality and fitment
T
October 16, 2020
What can I say? These are OEM quality. I just finished popping them in my 2005 GT and they ride like you'd want new, factory struts and springs to ride. Replaced some crappy 1.5" lowering springs and blown struts. They install easily. You need an 18mm for the sway link nut, a 10mm for the brake line cable tie-down nut, and 21mm for your strut bolts and lugs. Oh and a 12mm for the strut top hat nuts.
Good parts good prices
Jeffery
September 15, 2021
Fit good ride good an for a good prices thanks 1aauto
Customer Q&A
Looking for a strut for a 2005 mustang lowered 2".?September 25, 2016
Tim B
10
Doesn't lowers your car this is the exact same fit n size as stock
September 25, 2016
Omar R
10
The customer wanted to raise his car back to stock height and those worked great customer said they ride well
September 25, 2016
Alliance A
10
This is an OEM replacement. We do not carry lowering suspension parts here
September 26, 2016
Brian F
I have oem struts and springs on my 05 mustang, and its shot for sure causing vibrations. Are these the same height as the oem ford strut assembly?September 10, 2022
Anthony T
Are these exactly like oem? My strut and springs are still stock and I dont want it to be raised or lowered, and will it stop my vibration issue when driving highway speeds?September 10, 2022
Anthony T
10
Our parts are exact replacements for your vehicle's OEM parts. As long as your year, make, and model match up with our listing, these parts will directly fit and function like the originals. These are manufactured by TRQ. TRQ is a high quality, high-end name brand that we offer and back with our 1A Auto Limited Lifetime Warranty.
September 10, 2022
Ricale A
Anyone have these for an extended period of time? (Like over a year)? How do they hold up? I don't track my car but I enjoy an occasional spirited run through the twisties.November 14, 2023
Tim C
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Ford is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Ford or Ford Motor Company.See all trademarks.
Enter Vehicle Year Make Model
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Year
Make
Model
Options
Drivetrain
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.