Replaces
BPA17771
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Recommended for your 1997 Ford E150 Econoline
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
We're going to remove this whole panel. We're going to start by taking off the spare tire jack crank. Take that off and now there's a series of clips they have Phillips head screws in them. We'll show you how to get them out.
There's four across the front. Two more which are missing on this vehicle and then there's two clips back here which are a different style, although I'm pretty sure they should be this Phillips screw style. The way these should come out is you turn them counter-clockwise and very lightly, almost pull up on the screwdriver while you're doing it so they come out. Then once you have that out the whole clip will come up and out. You may run into them where they don't want to come out that easily, in that case you'll probably need a little 90 pick tool, although sometimes you can be successful getting. Sometimes you can get a fingernail under there, but what you'll probably have to do is get a pick tool right in underneath just to pry up a little bit when you turn it and pull it out.
These ones back here are a different style you pry up. Pull the center up and pull it out. Although I'm pretty sure these should be the Phillips screw style. I should have all the clips off, panel lifts up and off. I'm going to remove this cover. Two 10mm bolts on this side and one over on the passenger side. And remove those, 10mm socket and ratchet. Loosen the throttle body clamp with a flat blade screwdriver. Then you just kind of pull up and down on the whole ducting.
There are tubes that go in the side, once you pull it off the throttle body you can twist a little bit and pull those tubes free. Clamp for the air filter, pull that off and there's two connectors. One easy to see here, press down on the tab and disconnect. You may press on the tab, use your screwdriver and pry a little bit to help loosen it up. Connector's off and then there's another connector. Press the tab and disconnect. And the intake tube comes up and out.
Okay, you can see we have a lot of stuff off the front of our engine, which is good so we can show you how the belt routes, but obviously it's going to be more compact for you. Here at the top, the belt's on the alternator, goes down around the power steering pump, back up around your water pump then down and around the crank, up and around your tensioner, back down for your AC pulley and then back up across this idle pulley and to the alternator.
You're going to want to feed a breaker bar up from the bottom. And you're going to have the fan here, but you should be able to reach up and in and get your breaker bar in and grab and pull down. Once you pull down, you can flip it off of one of the pulleys and then release your breaker bar slowly and take it out. And now you can reach down, bring the belt up, flip it off the water pump, and pull it up and out, and then pretty much the hardest part will be get it off your AC compressor, and pull it up through.
The idler pulley has one 13mm bolt. Remove the bolt and the pulley comes off.
And put the new pulley on, put the bolt on, and then tighten this bolt to 15 to 22 foot pounds. Just make sure the pulley goes onto the casing correctly. Torque to 15 to 22 foot pounds. I've got my wrench set to 20.
Obviously we have a lot of stuff removed. This is so we can show you this process easier but you will have to contend with your fan and stuff. Take a loop between the idler and the tensioner pulleys. Push it down in and you can get it from below but push it down in and put a loop over your AC then take your belt, push it down underneath your crank shaft and put a loop around the crank shaft. Okay and then it comes up, over the water pump and down over the alternator and we'll leave it off of the power steering pulley. That'll be the last part we put on.
We're going to use a half in ratchet and the bigger ratchet you have, the better because you're going to want to feed it up into here, get it into your tensioner and keep in mind your fan will be on for some repairs. Get that ratchet as high as you can and then reach through, pull the tensioner down and then pull your belt onto your power steering pulley. It's not working on the power steering pulley, let it come off the water pump pulley, get it on the power steering pulley, sometimes it's easier to push up and onto the smooth pulley but again you'll have your fan in the way in some places. Then release the tensioner and remove your ratchet.
Put your air intake in place. Back in place over here. The tab winds up there and this clamp goes on. Just reach down and make sure nothing's getting pinched. Lock that down into place and your mass air flow connection, reconnect it. Reconnect this connector. Tube down here goes in there. Flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the clamp that holds it onto the throttle body. Throttle body cover back in place. And kind of move it around a little bit, figure out where the bolt hole is. I'm actually cheating, just looking right through here. See there, start it up and then push this side down into place and start my two bolts over here and then tighten them up.
Put the cover back on. It's in place, you can see all the holes. These back clips, just make sure the center's popped up. Push them down in, push the center in and then these ones across the front, clip in first and just push the center right in to lock it. Put your jack handle back in.
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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the serpentine belt tensioner on this 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty with the 5.4 liter engine. This process is pretty much the same for the 5.4 liter as well as the 6.8 liter, although the 6.8 liter has a little less clearance to get in there. Tools you'll need are a ½ inch drive breaker bar or a ratchet handle with pipe and you'll see how I use that when I reinstall the belt. You'll also need a 10mm socket with a ratchet extension or a 10mm wrench will work. In addition you'll need a stool and you'll hear some squeaking in the background a lot in this video and that's the stool slipping underneath me as I'm leaning over the hood of the truck.
Very important: find your belt routing diagram. On this truck, it's on the driver's side, right near the radiator. It looks like this. This is a very important piece of information. This help helps you get the belt routed correctly. It can be somewhat confusing if you don't have a diagram. If this has been painted over or is missing, I would actually draw a diagram just by hand, just so you have it. It helps.
Here is your tensioner right here, take a ½ inch ratchet, insert it there. Now force your ratchet clockwise to loosen the belt, and then take if off the alternator. Push down on the ratchet, grab the belt and slowly let your tensioner back, and pull the belt off. It goes down around your compresser here. Your tensioner is held on by three bolts: here, here and here, all 10mm. So I don't bore you, I'm going to hit the fast forward button as I remove those three 10mm bolts just using a regular socket and ratchet. The bolts usually come out pretty easy. Loosen them up a few turns and then they'll turn by hand. For the last one, you may have to reach down there with your other hand and hold up the tensioner some while you remove the last bolt.
The new tensioner from 1A Auto is the exact same as the old one. I'm going to put a bolt into it. Put it down in. Start that first bolt. Just fast forward again. Just like when you take it out, you start these bolts in and they'll pretty much thread in by hand. After you thread them in by hand, then, we'll tighten them up. Now tighten these up to about 25 foot pounds or good and tight with a small ratchet like this. Everything is aluminum so you don't want to over tighten it.
Take your new belt from 1A Auto and you want to make a nice tight loop and you're going to stuff it down in between where your tensioner and idler are. You're going to then reach underneath, grab that loop, and pull it through. I know you can't really see this, but I'm just pulling it through and then putting it around my A/C compressor pulley. Keep a loop down and around the crankshaft. After you're around the crankshaft, come up and ignore the alternator pulley for right now and put it down around your power steering pulley way over here. What you do is put a little loop between your bypass pulley and tensioner, get that down around the A/C, then put your loop around the crankshaft, then pull the loop up and around the power steering pulley and then you're on everything except the alternator. Closer up, you can see the belt is way down around the A/C compressor, around the tensioner there, and around the water pump and then down around the power steering pump over here. I can pull it up some. You can see I've got my ratchet in there. Take a piece of pipe; it's going to give me extra leverage to make this job really easy. Before I pull on that, I'm going to pull by belt up and make sure to feel down around the a/c pulley and the crank pulley and the power steering pulley. Everything feels like it's on there correctly. Bring my ratchet up, use the pipe, take the tension off, put the belt on and then slowly . I don't like the way it's looking on my tensioner here. I'm just going to pull it up a little bit. Slowly release that. Take the pipe off and take the ratchet off.
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This part will only fit a 1997 Ford E150 Econoline with these options.