Engine Water Pump TRQ WPA06894

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2002 Chevy Suburban. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the water pump on your 5.3L V8.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Remove the coolant cap before draining your coolant or lowering the level, as with the cap off, air can flow through and let the coolant drain faster.

Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you guys what's going on at home, but this job can easily be done in the driveway or your garage with a jack and jack stands. Place a drain bucket under the front driver's side of your radiator. There's actually a little drain hose tucked up here nice and neat. We're going to flip that down and hold it over our drain bucket while we loosen the pet cock and allow the radiator to drain. Loosen the hose clamp just after the mass airflow sensor. This is going to be the second one back from your air box. We'll do this using a flat blade screwdriver.

Wiggle and twist the boot to release it from the mass airflow sensor. You may need to use your screwdriver to help kind of peel it back here. These tend to get stuck on pretty good. We'll also remove the one at the throttle body. We'll need to disconnect the hoses from their clamps here. You can either try prying it out there, or there's also a little clamp at the bottom here that you should be able to compress. Pop loose with a flat blade, and remove the intake runner from the vehicle. Pop this hose clamp out with a flat blade screwdriver, and remove the hose.

Remove the two 10mm screws at the top of the fan shroud with a 10mm socket and ratchet. We're going to use our trim tool from 1AAuto to pop these up. You can also do it with a flat blade screwdrivers or a pair of side cutters. You don't have to remove the center pin fully, just pop it up, and wiggle the rest of the pin out. There's one at the back on each side like you saw there, and then another one here, up by the radiator. That one also has a twin on the opposite side. Pull back, and lift up the upper radiator shroud.

There are a few methods for reaming the large nut securing the fan clutch onto the water pump. Some of these methods include using air hammers, putting a wrench or an adjustable wrench on there and hitting it with a hammer. We haven't had luck with any of these methods, so we're going to use a C-clamp with a rubber boot on the clamp. Clamp the serpentine belt together and onto the water pump pulley to try to keep it from turning. Now, that rubber end really shouldn't damage the belt. We're going to replace our belt anyway while we do our water pump so we're not worried about it anyway. We also haven't had any luck with striking our adjustable wrench, so we're actually going to put a piece of pipe over it and just try to leverage it off there nice and easy. You should be able to spin the rest off nice and easy. We'll now remove our C-clamp.

Before removing your serpentine belt, make sure your vehicle has a belt path diagram under the hood somewhere. If this is missing or faded, you can just draw another one onto the plastic with something like a paint marker. Using a 15mm wrench on the tensioner, rotate the nut clockwise to slack the belt. Pop the belt off of whatever pulley is easiest for you to reach. Let the tension off the pulley and remove your serpentine belt.

You need a 15mm socket, ratchet, and extension to remove the three 15mm bolts on the tensioner bracket. Using a pair of pliers, and we do have a drain bucket setup underneath our vehicle here. Release the clamp on the lower radiator hose at the thermostat housing and move it back. I like to wiggle the hoses or twist 'em to try to get them to release. We'll just tuck that hose up and out of the way. Remove the two 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing. Do this with a 10mm socket and ratchet. We're just going to allow that to hang and drain out in a more controlled fashion. Remove the thermostat and housing from the vehicle. Remove the clamps for the heater core hoses.

Remove them from the water pump as well. Disconnect the smaller hose from the upper radiator hose. Compress the clamp with a pair of pliers. Wiggle the upper radiator hose off of the water pump. You can remove the six 10mm bolts, three on each side of the actual water pump pulley with a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension. Just make sure when you remove these bolts that you have some method of keeping them organized. These particular ones appear to be all the same length, but with any hardware going into the engine, you'll want to make sure that they all go back and exactly the same place, because a bolt being too long or too short could cause damage or failure.

Once the last bolt is out, and again, we do still have a drain bucket under our vehicle because coolant does pool in the system in certain places where it won't drain. We can remove our water pump from the vehicle, and I'm just going to let it drain down into the pan that we have under the truck. Somehow, the old paper gaskets on our water pump came off really clean. This is not a normal scenario at all, however, if you remove yours and you still have some chunks of the old paper gaskets stuck on there, be sure to scrape 'em off with a razor blade. We'll then dry the surfaces and wipe 'em off with a clean rag or paper towel and probably some brake parts cleaner, just to make sure that everything's good and we get a nice, good seal on our new water pump.

Here, we have our old water pump thermostat that we removed from our vehicle and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same, with the same six bolt mounting locations for our water pump to the engine block, a new pulley with the same threads to reinstall our fan and clutch. It even comes as a kit with a new thermostat, which is actually kind of cool on these vehicles. It is part of the housing, so that'll just bolt right in and seal up to the housing nicely. It even comes with a nice new set of gaskets for the back side. We have the same upper radiator hose on it. Our old one is actually why we removed it. It's starting to leak around the top edge here, and that's not really a terrible leak, but we would rather do it now than do it later when the leak becomes more severe and prevents us from driving our vehicle.

We have the same inlet for our thermostat and the same heater core outlet fittings on the end, as well as the three threaded bolt locations for our belt tensioner. If your water pump has failed and is leaking from any of these gasket surfaces, the seal at the bottom, or the hose fittings, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.

Use a clean rag or paper towel, I'm just going to remove all the moisture from the surface that the gasket's going to mount. We're going to spray some brake cleaner with another clean paper towel. Just wipe any dirt and debris and oils that might be on that surface, just to make sure that nothing interferes with us getting a good seal the first time. I've sent all the bolts back through right where they go, and I'm now installing the gaskets onto the bolts just to make 'em a little bit easier to line up. I'll now very carefully set the new water pump into place.

I'm just going to take my 10mm extension and socket off of the ratchet and use those to help line up the bolts. I'm holding it pretty far away right now, and all I'm doing is just sending the bolts through very slowly so we don't knock the gasket out of place. Just going to get all three of 'em started a couple of threads, so we know everything's where we want to go, and then we'll worry about tightening it down. Torque the water pump bolts to 11 foot-pounds. Compress the clamp and reinstall the upper radiator hose.

Reinstall your heater core hoses. Set the clamps back into place. Install your new thermostat and housing assembly, along with the two 10mm bolts. Torque these bolts to 11 ft. lbs.

Reinstall the lower radiator hose, and slide the clamp back into place. Reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner onto the water pump housing cover. Two longer bolts go in the upper holes, and the shortest bolt goes on the bottom. Tighten these bolts with a 15mm socket and ratchet.

Install the belt over the front grooves of the harmonic balancer or crank pulley. Bring the right side over top of the pulley. We'll then go over top of the water pump and loop under the power steering pump. Over the alternator. Under the idler pulley. Now I'll keep this piece in my hand, make sure that everything is seated because this one's kind of tight, you're going to want the room.

Using my 15mm wrench, I'll take the tension off of the tensioner pulley, slide the belt over, double-check that our path is right, all of the belt is properly seated, and then let the tension back on.

Reinstall the radiator fan and clutch assembly onto the threads of the water pump pulley. Again, you should be able to get this pretty much bottomed out by hand. Reinstall your clamp or whatever method you used to keep the water pump pulley from turning. Then tighten it back down with either the right wrench or your adjustable and remove the C-clamp. Lift up on the upper radiator hose, and reinstall the upper fan shroud. There are two little pins, one on each side, that'll help you to align everything, and then we'll reinstall our four plastic clips by popping the basin and then locking the center pin down.

Reinstall the two 10mm screws at the top. Tighten them down with a 10mm socket and ratchet. Reinstall the hoses back into their clips. Reinstall the intake tubing, it's easiest to set it onto the throttle body. Reengage the hoses into their clips. Then get the boot over the air box. Then tighten down both clamps with a flat blade screwdriver.

Be sure that your petcock is closed before refilling the coolant, and that the hose is folded back up into its holder on the side of the radiator.

Refill your coolant. This vehicle uses the orange coolant Dex-Cool. Make sure that it is either pre-diluted or if you buy concentrated full strength that you mix it 50/50 with distilled water. We'll fill it up as much as it'll take, and then back our vehicle outside to finish bleeding the system while it's running. Don't be afraid to overfill it, because once our vehicle runs and gets up to temperature the thermostat will open and that fluid will all go into the engine block.

Set your vehicle with the fan on the lowest speed, set to hot in the vents so you can feel the warm air coming out of the vehicle. This will also open any bypass valves that prevent coolant from entering the heater core when shut off. This is another place that air pockets can build up. Now we'll let our vehicle run up to temp, and keep the coolant topped off in the process.

Now we just had to add just about a gallon of coolant to the vehicle once it got up to temp. Now we'll keep an eye on it, wait for it to finish bubbling, our heat to get hot, and the level to stabilize before we'll finally top off our fluid and take our vehicle for a test drive. Once your fluid is finished bleeding, and it's topped off reinstall your cap and test drive your vehicle.

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Remove this cover. I'm going to use an 8-millimeter socket. Loosen that bolt up and slide the cover up. And loosen up this warm clamp, you can use the 8-millimeter socket or a straight blade screwdriver. And the same with this one right here. Use a trim tool and just separate this retainer right there or that bracket. Now slide the snorkel off there and pull it out. Just to gain more access, I'm going to pull this airbox off. Disconnect the mass air flow sensor, grab the airbox, pull it straight up and you can slide it out. These two tabs and this holds it in. I'm just going to take the cap off the coolant reservoir, set it aside. I'm going to take the bottom radiator hose off. I need to drain the coolant. There's no coolant drain on this radiator. So I'm going to use a hose clamp pliers that have the cable style. Remove that hose clamp, make sure you have a drain bucket underneath. Squeeze that. Just let that drain out.

I'm going to take these two bolts out up top, use a 10-millimeter socket. And there's four pushpins, two on this side and two on the other side. You can use a push pin removal tool or a trim tool. Just remove these. Now, take this hose retainer off right here. Just use a trim to slide, that up. Slide this hose out right here. It should be [inaudible 00:02:18]. Just move this hose out of your way and just slide this cover right out. I'm going to use a fan clutch tool with the 36-millimeter adapter and just go right here, this setup. Once you get it loose, you should be able to spin it off just like that. And pull it out. All right, take this smaller hose out of that bracket or holder and I'll use a hose clamp tool. Just move this hose clamp. Try to twist the hose a little bit. And it's not really twisting too well. I'll just use a pick and just get underneath here. Just be careful not to ruin the hose. And just slide this off.
Now, I'm going to remove the drive belt. You can use a 15-millimeter wrench or a serpentine belt removal tool. Just loosen the tension on the tensioner and slide it off the idler pulley and then take the belt off, take it off the water pump, off the power steering pump, set it aside. And take these bolts out for the tensioner pulley. Use a 15-millimeter socket, there's 3 of them. And take the tensioner off. And we want to take this hose off, so remove that hose clamp or move the hose clamp. Use the hose clamp pliers. Just twist the hose. Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath in case there is any extra coolant. And slide that off. And do the same for these two. Take the hose clamp off and remove the hoses. Now there's three bolts on this side and three bolts on this side. Take those out with a 10-millimeter socket. All right. And then get the last one out. Just hold the water pump from falling and just slides out just like that. And take these gaskets off. And you're going to want to clean this surface area right here and where the other side is. Either use a razor blade or a scraper. Clean that up. Just be careful not to gouge the metal.

If you're going to reuse the old thermostat, take a 10-millimeter socket, there is a bolt here and a bolt down here. Take those out. This is pretty bad, you're going to want to replace that gasket. Just grab the thermostat, slide it out. Slide the old gasket off, clean this all up, put a new gasket on and reinstall it. Put the gasket back in, put the thermostat into the housing and slide it in position. Put the bolts on. Now I'm going to torque these bolts to 11-foot-pounds. Now, take the water pump, put the bolts in their position, and then we're going to take these seals and line these up just like that. And the bolts are going to hold those seals in.

All our surfaces are clean. Just take a rag and some brake parts cleaner. Just make sure they're clean and slide this in position. Make sure those seals don't fall off there. Get these bolts started. Now, I'm going to do 2 passes, I am going to twerk these bolts to 11-foot-pounds first. Just going to alternate side to side and then for the final torque, I'm going to torque these to 22-foot-pounds. Now, put these hoses back on. Use the hose clamp tool. Put the hose clamp back in position. And do the same for the other ones. Now we'll take the tensioner with the bolts. Line the bolts up. Now I'm going to torque these bolts to 37-foot-pounds. Take the serpentine belt. I'm going to start at the crank, the crank pulley and then wrap it around the water pump, then around the power steering pulley. Then up around the alternator, then I'm going to go over to the tensioner first, the belt should stay like that. And then grab your wrench or your tensioner tool. Just make sure the belt doesn't get stuck on that bolt, put a little pressure on it and go over the idler pulley. Take the belt off, just take a look, make sure everything's lined up. It's not lined up right there. Adjust accordingly. Take the upper radiator hose. Line this up. Get the hose clamp tool. Hose clamp pliers. Slide it over. That's good. Put this hose back in these retainers or holders. And take this little protector off, just protects the threads. Just take the fan and just line it up. Now, if you have a torque ranch and you're able to hold the water pump pulley from spinning, you can twerk that to 41-foot-pounds. We don't have that. I'm just going to use an adjustable wrench and just a hammer. Give it a couple good taps. And that's good.

All right, take this fan shroud. Hold the hose out of the way. Line it up with some alignment pins right there on both sides. Put these pushpins in, lock them down. Do the same on the other side. These bolts in. Get those lined up and tighten these down. And line this retainer up and right there. Put that hose in that position. Now take the hose. Line the hose up with the clamp. Use the hose clamp tool. And if these clamps seem weak, then replace them with a worm clamp. And slide the airbox back in position. What you want to do is slide this piece. It's going to go right here. It's going to slide there and then push the two pushpins straight down. Push Down. It's good to go. Reconnect the mass air flow sensor. And put the snorkel back on, line this up with the throttle body and the airbox. And tighten up the worm clamps. And line this bracket back up. Put the cover on, slide it in the back, get the bolt started, snug it down.

Now you want to fill up the coolant reservoir. I fill it up about an inch or two above where the fill line is before we start the vehicle and start the vehicle with the cap off and the level is going to adjust. It's probably going to suck some into the engine. And then after that, you're going to adjust accordingly. Let the vehicle run for about 10 minutes monitoring the level. While you're letting it run, monitor the temperature gauge, make sure it does not go over 210 degrees. If it does then shut the vehicle off, let it cool down, top off the coolant and try it again. Turn the heat on, put it on a medium fan. Turn the heat all the way up to hot. Make sure you do feel some heat coming out of the vents, especially when the temperature starts getting up there. If you don't feel any heat, again, your coolant level is going to be too low. Shut the vehicle off. Top off the coolant. And then after that, after the thermostat has opened up, when the hoses are nice and hot, shut the vehicle down. Adjust accordingly. Put the cap back on. You should be good to go.

You wanna have a nice collection bucket, something that's gonna be able to collect and be able to recycle that coolant when we're done. We'll put them over here. And if you were to look right up along the side of the radiator, on the bottom left-hand corner, you're gonna see right on the corner, there should be a little petcock. It's like a little twisty knob. You will turn that to the left. And then, of course, as it turns to the left and started coming out, coolant will come out. It might make a mess, so, of course, be very careful. Now, our petcock is broken, but this is what it should look like right here. You would just grab this little knob, turn it counterclockwise, you can see it opening up. And at this point, coolant will come out the side. If you were to look right down here, you're gonna see a clamp. If you were to look at the other end where it connects on to the throttle body, you're gonna see another clamp. You can go ahead and loosen those up. Also, if you come right up here, you're gonna see an 8-millimeter bolt. If you loosen that up, you can take this right out.

Once you have that out of the way and the clamps are loosened, you can wiggle this around. I'm gonna draw it off of the throttle body right here and I'm gonna come right there. Take it off right here, remove it from the vehicle. Next, we're gonna remove the bolts right up here that hold this in. Let's use our little forky tool here, or you can use a screwdriver or whatever you've got. We're gonna lift up on the center of these push tabs here, and then you should be able to take it right out of there. That's what it looks like. There's two on this side and two on the passenger's side, remove them all of all. We have all those out, let's go ahead and get this off of here. The next thing we need to do is get the fan clutch off of here. You wanna do that before you remove your serpentine belt because that's gonna help keep the water pump from spinning. I'm gonna carefully try to put a little bit of penetrant on there, right along the area between the actual clutch itself and the pump. Let that sit for a second. We're gonna need to use a 36-millimeter wrench of some sort. I have one that goes on my air chisel. But if you have a 36-millimeter wrench and a hammer, you could try to give it a couple of light bonks and see if you can get it to break free.

Once that breaks free, you can go ahead and spin it right off. Just be careful not to let it spin too freely because if it comes off, falls down, it could potentially damage your radiator. Get that right out of there. We're gonna go ahead and get the serpentine belt off of here. To do that, you wanna come right over here to your tensioner, pry this clockwise and it'll relieve tension. Get that right off of here. Don't worry about that belt routing, you can find it located right here. We're gonna remove our AC belt. Some people will say that you don't necessarily need to, but I would recommend it because coolant is gonna be coming out and it could contaminate your belt. Twist that clockwise and remove the belt. Next, we're gonna remove this clamp right here. Just loosen it up enough to get the hose off of your thermostat housing. As you can tell, this clamp is in poor condition and it's not functioning well. It needs to be replaced. Just give this a little tug. Be careful because coolant could come out. Nice. Let's go ahead and remove that thermostat housing. Give it a little wiggle, should break right free.

Next, it's gonna be time to remove your tensioner. You're gonna notice that there's three 15-millimeter headed bolts. Remove them all and get the tensioner out of here. There we are. Now, let's start removing some of these coolant hoses. We've got this hose right here, and then two more right down there. You can use pliers, you can use one of this nice clampy-dos here. Put it on there, give this a little wiggle. If it doesn't wanna break free, we're gonna come through with a little pick and help it. Note if you're using something like this, just pay attention to the fact that it is pointy. You don't wanna poke any holes inside your hose. I'm just gonna weasel it in between the water pump assembly and the hose itself. Once it starts to break free, we should be all set. There we are. Set this aside. Now, just do the same to these ones.

Now, we're gonna remove the mounting bolts for the water pump. There's gonna be six. There's gonna be three on the driver side and then three over on the passenger side. Remove them all. Just put this bolt in a couple of threads to hold the water pump for us and we're gonna remove the last bolt. Okay. At this point, the water pump can move around. Let's go ahead and get that bolt out of there and remove our water pump. There it is, friends. Now, it's time to get the seals off of here. Usually, you can grab right onto it, remove it. Take a good look, make sure that you get everything off of here. You definitely don't wanna leave any of this crud on there. We'll do the same to the other one. Now, for both of these areas, we need to make sure we clean up the surface where the gasket is gonna ride. So, just go ahead and take a razor blade or an ice scraper, whatever you've got, and just clean up the area. You wanna make sure it's a nice smooth surface. If your water pump bolts are rusted or have debris on them, go ahead and clean them up with a wire wheel.

The next thing you wanna do when you're replacing any water pump is to make sure any of the mounting bolts don't go into the coolant jacket, you can do that by sticking a small screwdriver or whatever you have inside. If it stops, then that means it does not go in. If for some reason the screwdriver just kept going, more than likely that means it goes into the coolant jacket. Now, we're just gonna put the gaskets right on here. I like to start in all three bolts on each side and put the gaskets right on. Then when we come in, we're gonna go right up against the engine and carefully start them in. Just be careful because the gaskets might wanna fall out or even the bolts. Start that one in there a little bit. Start them all in before you start snugging any of them up. So, now we're just gonna snug up these bolts. We're not going to tighten them very much, we just wanna bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications.

Now that we have all six of our bolts snugged up, we're gonna go ahead and do our first pass torquing these down to 11 foot-pounds. After we've torqued them all to 11, we're gonna go head back around and do 22 foot-pounds. Here we go round two, 22 foot-pounds. Now, it's gonna be time to get our thermostat in here. You definitely wanna make sure that if you're not replacing the whole thermostat, you at least replace your gasket. Now, we're gonna take our thermostat and our housing. We're gonna line up the gasket with this little air piton here. You can see it rattling around. That's gonna line up right here. That's gonna be the upper area. So, slide that right in. Make sure the gasket is sitting flush and it's not damaged in any way or curled. Grab your two bolts. It's right down here and it's gonna shoot off right towards the passenger side there. We'll go ahead and start to unbolt the bolts before we tighten any of them down, and then we'll snug them up and we'll torque them to 11 foot-pounds.

Now, it's gonna be time to get our hoses on here. You're gonna notice that this one towards the rear of the vehicle is smaller or thinner in diameter than this one. So, we'll take the single hose and we'll put that one on the rear, and then we'll take the one with the Y and we'll put that towards the front. You wanna make sure that you still have a little bit of hose sticking out past the end there. And you also wanna put the clamp pretty much back where you got it from on the hose itself. Give both hoses a nice tug, make sure they can not slide off. If they slide, you need to replace your clamps. Now, it's time to get the hose on here. Just double-check your clamp. Make sure it's in good condition. If it's not, go ahead and replace it. Put this all the way on there. Slide it all the way so it bottoms out, and then snug up your clamp. Okay. Give it a nice check. Make sure it can't spin around and it's definitely not sliding off.

Now, it's gonna be time to get the tensioner on there. If you were to look at the backside, you're gonna see that there are two bolt holes that are nice and deep like this, and then there's a shallow. If you're looking at the water pump, you're gonna see one bolt hole that comes way out like this. That's where the shallow bolt is gonna go to. And then, of course, the longer bolts will go there. Line this up. Here's our bolts, you can see the long bolts and one short. Put the short one right where it belongs down on the bottom. Start it in, start in the other two. We'll snug them up and then we're gonna torque them to 37 foot-pounds. Okay. Torque to 37. Next, we're gonna put on our AC belt. To do that, you're gonna use your ratchet with a short extension. Put the AC belt down in here where it's gonna go. It's gonna go right around the crank into that inner pulley area. Line it up, bring it around. We'll get that close to the AC. Just like that. Then I'm gonna see if I can get my extension in under here. Sometimes it can be difficult. If for some reason you can't, just go ahead and remove the belt a little bit, bring this down, and then put the bolts over. Double-check it, make sure it's sitting inside all the grooves on all the pulleys. This feels good, I'll get this out of there. Awesome.

Go ahead and get our serpentine belt on here. To do that, I'm gonna take the belt and I'm gonna put it right around the crank just like this. So, I'm coming down along the passenger side of the water pump right here. At this point, I'm gonna take one side and I'm gonna go over the tensioner and I'm just gonna leave it there for a second. That'll bring this other side down underneath the power steering pump right here, and then up and over the alternator. You can see that it's nice and loose. That's because it needs to come underneath the idler. Before we do that, we're gonna come right here and we're gonna make sure that our tensioner is in the open position. Bring this down, grab this, put it right under. Perfect. Now, it's gonna be time to get the fan clutch onto the water pump. Don't use any thread locker or anything like that. You don't need to use any thread locker and you don't wanna use any never-seize, just go ahead and go metal on metal. Turn this clockwise until it bottoms out. Okay. So, that's pretty much it.

Now, at this point, what I like to do is just give it a couple of taps to tighten it. You don't wanna continue tightening it to the point that it's gonna be overtightened because you do, of course, need to get this off again someday. If you were gonna torque it down, you would torque it to 41 foot-pounds. And that's it. Let's go ahead and get this hose on there, get our clamp. It's already down on there. There we are. Make sure you go ahead and tighten up that clamp so it's nice and snug. I'm gonna turn it. Okay. That feels nice and tight. Give it a little wiggle, make sure it's not gonna come off. Let's go ahead and put this hose up into the little clamps where it belongs. That looks good. Let's go ahead and get our fan shroud back on here. Go ahead and lift up on that upper hose, slide it down in. There we are. This looks good. We're gonna line up down here. You're gonna see you have a little piton and a hole. Line that up. It should sit right in. Do the same on the other side. There we are.

So, now we're gonna take our push clips, make sure that the center is pulled up. If it's pushed in, that means it's in the locked position. Go ahead and slide it in, lock it in. Do the same to the other one. And then come right up top up here and start in your bolt. Now, we'll do the same to the other side, and then we'll snug this up. Get our air intake back on here. It's gonna go right underneath this hose here. Line it up there. Grab this, slide it in, push it all the way in so it's up against the whole throttle body. Make sure your clamps are nice and tight. Your hose over here should have a little clippy-do. Ours is actually broken, but it's gonna push in right there and that'll hold it secure. This cover back on here, just slide it all the way back so it's sitting inside the pitons. Put this down and tighten up your bolt. Real quick before we go too much further, let's go ahead and check that petcock. Make sure it's nice and tight.

Now, it's gonna be time to fill your cooling system. When you fill the cooling system, it's important to use the proper coolant. You'd wanna use Dex-Cool. Dex-Cool is gonna be like a reddish-pinkish fluid. If you don't have access to Dex-Cool, you could also use a universal fluid, but you definitely don't wanna use green. I'm gonna use universal, that's what I have access to. And I'm just gonna fill this right up and then we'll run it for a little while here. You wanna look for the full cold while the engine is cold. Once it heats up, of course, the coolant level is gonna come up a little bit. But to start, we want it to be at full cold. We're gonna run it for a little while and then we're going to double-check just to make sure it's full. All right. So, now that we've run it for a little while, everything is nice and hot, I'm just gonna put this cap on, and then we're gonna take it for a road test.

You don't have to remove the tire to access the lower radiator hose but we took it off so you can see. Lower radiator hose is right here. Now there's no drain on this radiator so we're gonna have to take off that hose. I'm just gonna use a hose clamp tool, just move this wire out of my way. I'm just gonna use a trim tool, just remove this retainer for this wire and just slide that out of the way. Now I can access the clamp. And slide the hose clamp tool or the clamp. Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath. Loosen that up. And just try to twist the hose back and forth. Just be careful, you don't wanna splash too much coolant on you. Just gonna use a pry bar just to pry it out a little. You can use a straight-blade screwdriver. Just going back and forth. There we go. Once you get this started, you might wanna lower the vehicle.

And one thing I forgot to mention, make sure you do this while the engine is cool, you don't wanna do this with hot coolant. And just slide this off. And there we go. Now remove this cover using 8-millimeter socket to loosen up this bolt. And slide the cover out. Now we're gonna remove this snorkel. There is a bracket right here that attaches to the upper radiator hose. This one's broken, but if yours is there, just use a screwdriver or a trim tool and remove that. And loosen up these one clamps with a 8-millimeter socket or a straight-blade screwdriver and also this one over here. Now slide this snorkel off, right there and then off the throttle body and slide it out. Now disconnect the mass airflow sensor. There's a little lock tab on here, slide that back, and then push down on the terminal lock, right there. Then grab the airbox, you can pull it straight up and then wiggle it out. These are the tabs that hold it down. Now we're gonna take the belt off. Normally, the adapter, you're gonna use a 15-millimeter wrench or a serpentine belt tool that has the 15-millimeter adapter. This tensioner actually uses a 14-millimeter so I'm gonna put that on, loosen this up, slide the belt off the idler arm right here. Then loosen the tension on the tensioner and you can take the belt off completely. Keep in mind how the belt goes. You could take a picture of the belt before you take it off, that might be helpful. Now I'm gonna remove the tensioner, use a 15-millimeter socket. And there's three bolts.

And slide that out of the way. Now we're gonna start taking the hoses off the water pump. Just remove this hose from this bracket and this bracket and then use a hose clamp tool. And we can move the hose clamp up the hose a little bit just like that and try to twist the hose a little bit. There we go. And slide it off. If it doesn't come off like that, you can take a pick tool and just slide it in between the hose and the water pump. Loosen it up all the way around. Just make sure that the coolant is drained at this point. And take these hoses off as well the same way. Just use your hose clamp tool. Now I'm gonna remove the bolts for the water pump. There's three on this side and three on the other side. Use a 10-millimeter socket.

All those bolts are loose, take those out. And grab the pump and just slide it out. Now you wanna clean up the sealing surface where the water pump is gonna go. Just use a scraper. If you're careful, you can use a razor blade to scrape any excess gasket material, right there and then also right in here. And wipe it down with a rag and some brake parts cleaner. Now, if you don't have a new thermostat housing to put on your new water pump, you can transfer over the old one, just use a 10-millimeter socket. Take these bolts out. Slide that out, no need to replace the seal for the thermostat, just grab the thermostat and just pry it off. Now you wanna clean all this up. Use a scraper or some emery cloth and just clean all this corrosion up. Now just pull the seal off and whip down the thermostat. Take the new seal and it is...it does go on a certain way. Where this little breather valve is, that's where this little mark goes. And just wrap this around just like that. And there is an indent right there where that little tab goes just like that. That looks good. Slide that in position. And put my bolts in. Snug these up first. And now we'll torque those bolts to 11 foot-pounds. Now we wanna take and put some new gaskets on the water pump. If you're reusing the water pump, then you wanna clean up the surfaces where the gaskets are. And slide the bolts through. The bolts will kinda hold the gasket a little bit. Just like that.

Now carefully slide the water pump in place, making sure the gaskets don't fall off. And snug them up, snug up the bolts. Now we're gonna torque these six bolts. There's two passes so the first pass you're gonna torque them to 11 foot-pounds and then second pass tighten it to 22 foot-pounds. Now we can attach all the coolant hoses and the clamps. That's good. Do the same with the heater hoses and take the tensioner pulley and wind this up. Get the bolts started. Then torque these bolts to 37 foot-pounds. Now we can install the upper radiator hose. Just line this up, slide it down, and slide the hose clamp down in position. Now we can install the serpentine belt. Go around the crank pulley, and up around the water pump, and down around the power steering pump pulley, and up around the alternator, and then go around the tensioner, and then last is the idler pulley. So we're gonna put a little tension on the belt. And you can use your serpentine belt tool or just a wrench or a ratchet. Loosen the tension on the tensioner and slide the belt underneath. Just double-check all your pulleys. And it looks good. Now line the airbox up.

Push it down into the grommets and plug the mass airflow sensor in. Take those snorkel and line this up over the mass airflow sensor and on the throttle body. There we go. And snug the worm clamps down. And put this cover on, slide it in position and tighten it down. Now you can add the appropriate coolant, a 50/50 mix. And you wanna top this off up to where the full line is. And then you start the vehicle, let the vehicle run for about 10 minutes, monitoring the temperature gauge while you're running the vehicle and monitoring the level. You're gonna wanna top it off while it's still running. And once it's warmed up, shut the vehicle off, let it cool, put the cap on. And then after it's cooled, check the level again.