Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Rear Shock Absorbers
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Sway Bar Links 2002-09 Dodge RAM 1500
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2011-2018 Ram 1500 36L V6
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2011-2018 Ram 1500
How to Replace Rear Shock Absorber 2009-16 Ram 1500
How to Replace Rear Shocks 2011-2018 Ram 1500
How To Replace Rear Shock 1999-2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2011-2018 Ram 1500 36L V6
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2011-2018 Ram 1500
Created on:
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Locking Pliers
18mm Socket
Safety Glasses
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Okay, friends. To get started on this vehicle, the first thing we want to talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you want to make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension's hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Okay, friends. So here's our front sway bar link. As you can tell ours is broken at the top. So I have the new one here to show you. If you were to look at it, you have the stud that comes down through the bottom of the control arm. Following it up, you're going to find another stud up along the top that comes to the top of the sway bar itself. On top of that, there'll be a little bushing, a washer, and a nice nut. You would of course remove the nut and then the washer and the bushing, and then you'll be left with this.
Next, we're going to move right down here and we're going to remove this nut. I'm just going to take a nice pair of locking pliers like this, clamp it onto this stud, make it as tight as possible. Let's remove that 18 millimeter nut. Okay, for us personally, where the top of ours is broken, this is going to come out nice and easy. If you still had the top of the stud on your sway bar link, what you're going to notice is it's going to be very hard to get it out. You could try to pry up on the pry bar and see if you can squeeze it out. But in all actuality, when you're replacing sway bar links, you do them as a pair anyway. So now's a perfect time to go over and remove the right one as well.
Here we are. There's our old sway bar link. Let's dispose of this properly and grab our new one. Let's go ahead and take apart our sway bar link so it looks like this with a washer and one bushing up along the top there. You can slide it into either direction you want, and then of course, we're going to bring the bar down once we have the other side in as well. Let's start this nut on here. Looking at the lower aspect of the sway bar link, where it's going to connect to the actual control arm, you can see there's like a little nut there. We're going to hold that and then turn this.
Now we're going to snug up this nut and we're just going to watch these bushings right here. You wanna see them touch up against the bar, but you definitely don't want to see them squished down so they look like a pancake and start bubbling out. That looks pretty great right there. You can see it's squished down here, squished down there. It's definitely making contact with both sides of the bar. Do the same thing to the other side and make sure you have the same amount of threads on both sides. Let's torque this to 20 foot-pounds. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're going to start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
24mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Trim Tool Set
Safety Glasses
Pliers
3/8 Inch Breaker Bar
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Rubber Mallet
Gloves
Punch
Pole Jack
Socket Driver
Bushing Removal Tool
Wheel Chocks
Wire Ties
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
8mm Socket
Wheel Chocks
18mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver
8mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket and breaker bar
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Wheel Well Liner
Remove the 8mm bolts from the mud flap
Remove the Phillips screw from the mud flap
Remove the nine 8mm bolts from the wheel well liner and its perimeter
Remove the wheel well liner
3. Removing the Rear Shock
Remove the upper rear shock nut with a 21mm socket and breaker bar and 21mm wrench
Remove the lower rear shock nut with a 21mm socket and breaker bar and 21mm wrench
4. Installing the Rear Shock
Insert the rear shock into place
Tighten the upper rear shock nut with a 21mm socket and breaker bar and 21mm wrench
Tighten the lower rear shock nut with a 21mm socket and breaker bar and 21mm wrench
5. Installing the Wheel Well Liner
Insert the wheel well liner into place
Tighten the nine 8mm bolts to the wheel well liner and its perimeter
Tighten the Phillips screw to the mud flap
Tighten the 8mm bolts to the mud flap
6. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 130 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Today I'm going to be replacing these rear shocks on this 2016 Ram 1500. If you need these parts, or other parts, for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.
We're going to loosen these lug nuts up, going to use a 7/8ths socket. You can also use a 22mm socket and a breaker bar. Just want to crack 'em free before we raise the vehicle. I'm going to raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. If you're doing this at your house you can use a jack and jack stands.
I'll take these lug nuts off, we'll just use the socket. Take that last lug nut off. You can grab the tire, take it off. This vehicle has a mud flap, so I'm going to remove this. Going to use an 8mm socket and ratchet. Remove these two bolts, and then there's a screw right there. Then I'm going to use a Phillips head screwdriver. Pull this screw off. There's actually a nut on the back side, so I'm just going to hold the nut with my fingers. Pull that out. If you needed to put a wrench on there. Set that aside.
Now I'm going to remove this inner fender well. We're going to remove these bolts. There's nine of them. Right here, here, here, and then those two as well. Just use an 8mm socket and a ratchet. Take that last screw out. Grab the inner fender liner. Just going to slide it out. Take it out just like that. I'm going to support the rear axle so that it doesn't fall once I pull the bolts out of the shock. So, you can use a floor jack, or we're using the transmission jack, or a screw jack, or a pole jack.
I'm just going to break this bolt free. I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Just loosen it up. All right. So, to get this upper bolt out, the nut on the inside is just spinning, so I had to take a 21mm wrench and actually heat it up and bend it. If you're doing a lot of these jobs, you might want to do this, or get a short 21mm wrench. There's no way to get a socket on the inside of here. If you get the wrench on the inside right here. Just like that. Then I can take a 21mm socket and breaker bar, loosen up this bolt from the inside. I don't want to take the bolt out completely, 'cause I do want to support the rear axle before I take the bolt out, but at this point I want to get the nut off from the inside. Just going to loosen it up. So I'll loosen this bolt up and take it out. Once it's pretty loose I can take this modified wrench out. I'll try to take the nut off with my fingers. Slide the nut off. Just leave that in there for now.
Now I'll loosen up the bottom bolt with a 21mm socket and breaker bar, 21mm wrench. Loosen it up. Take this nut off. Once that's out. Just want to make sure your support is good for your rear differential, then we can pull these bolts out. Pull this bolt out first. Pull the top bolt out next. Slide the shock right out. This is our old shock. Here's our new shock from 1aauto.com. It's a KYB shock, it's got the same bushings, same length, same dust shield. Get yours at 1aauto.com and get ready to rock and roll.
Now I'm going to slide the shock into place, start with the top. Take the shock bolt, get that installed. Get the nut on the inside started. Then we'll try to line up the bottom. I am actually going to have to lower the rear differential a little bit. Now going to raise it up. When it's in position take the bolt, slide that in. Take the nut, put the nut on. Now going to take the ratchet and the wrench, and tighten this bolt up. Snug that up, and do the same for the top bolt. We're going to take a torque wrench, and we're going to tighten these down to 100 foot pounds. I'll start with the top one. I still have my wrench on the inside. Now I can pull the wrench off. Now I'll take the bottom one.
Now we're able to lower the support for the rear differential. I'm going to reinstall this in your fender well. Bend it up a little bit, should be able to get it in. There we go. Just going to take these bolts, get these bolts started. I'm going to reinstall the mud flap before I tighten those other screws up. Get these started. I'll take an 8mm socket, extension, and ratchet, going to tighten up all these bolts, and those too. Then just snug those down. You are tightening plastic down, so not too tight. Take the wheel, line it up with the lug nuts. Take the lug nuts, get those started. Just take the socket, make sure these are all snug. I'm going to lower the vehicle and torque them. Going to take a 7/8ths socket or a 22mm socket, and a torque wrench, and I'm going to torque these to 130 foot pounds. We're going to do this in a star pattern, so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'm going to go around one more time, just to make sure.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Pole Jack
Jack Stands
8mm Socket
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
22mm Socket
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Socket Driver
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
18mm Socket
Pliers
22mm Socket
Tools used
24mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Trim Tool Set
Safety Glasses
Pliers
3/8 Inch Breaker Bar
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Rubber Mallet
Gloves
Punch
Pole Jack
Socket Driver
Bushing Removal Tool
Wheel Chocks
Wire Ties
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
SKA67249
In Stock
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Quality & Perfect Replacement
T
March 16, 2020
I installed these rear shocks on a 2010 Ram 1500. The shocks were a perfect fit replacement. You just need a 21mm stubby wrench for the top nut inside the upper shock tower! Thank you 1A Auto for great prices, fast shipments and high quality replacement parts!
Customer Q&A
Can I add spring coils to the rear shocks ?April 24, 2024
John D
10
No, you are unable to add coils springs to the rear shocks.
April 25, 2024
Jessica D
Customer service
877-844-3393
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