Replaces
Part Details
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Product Features
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brake pads and rotors on this 2004 Dodge Ram 1500. This is a full-drive. This procedure is generally the same for most of this generation truck. Tools you'll need are 7/8, actually, or a 22 millimeter, pretty much the same size, 13/16", 13 millimeter sockets, ratchet. You'll probably want a breaker bar or a pipe to get some leverage on your ratchet handle. A sledge hammer if your rotors are rusted like they were on our vehicle, a large screwdriver or a small pry bar, wire brush, large C-clamp and we also use some penetrating oil.
First, you want to remove your wheel. If you're just using hand tools, start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first and then raise it, secure it with jack stand then remove the wheel. I've got air tools and I use them. Either the 7/8" or 22 millimeter, both will work. Okay, and we'll fast forward here as I remove the lug nuts, the cap and the wheel. Now, with the wheel off, you can check the condition of your brakes or your rotors. Use the back of your finger. Just run them up and if you're feeling hard ridges, or this actually has some pretty deep bruise here so I'm actually going to replace these rotors. Then you can check the condition of your pads. As you can see, my pads are actually in pretty good shape. The pad is right there and I will only turn the rotor. On the rotor, you can see turning for pads right next to it. There are some pretty good bites in the pad but I don't like the look of these rotors so I'm going to replace the rotors and pads.
What you want to do, take a large pry bar or large screw driver or a small pry bar like this. You're going to pry out on the caliper. It pushes the pistons. These are pistons right here. By prying out those pistons, get pushed back into the caliper. You remove the caliper; you're going to want to remove two 13 millimeter bolts, one here and then one up here. Pretty easy and it's loosen up, supposed to be too tight but it will come up with a small ratchet and then socket or wrench. The caliper comes off, take that, just left it up here for now. Now, your brake pads, it will just come right out. You'll need your pry bar and I got it right out. Now, you can see that rotor is still blocked by this bracket. To get the bracket off, it's two bolts, one here, one here. What I'm finding the best is a 13/16", 21 millimeters looks like is a little too big. It's kind of odd that they go back and forth between standard and metric.
When these bolts are done, you'll either want a breaker bar like this or you could just have a ratchet and a piece of pipe, put it under your ratchet or your breaker bar, give yourself an extra leverage and loosen up the bolts. Just be careful when you do this, you'd pull nicely so it doesn't jerk. I mean, you're putting not much torque on it. You don't want to pull off the bolt. After showing you how to do the leverage, I just cheat and use the impact wrench anyways. I'm going to spray the rotor with tons of penetrate. Hopefully, it's getting there. On your vehicle, you maybe want to do this, just sit it overnight and come back on the back side of the rotor and the hub. Pull out the big gun.
You probably noticed the shiny, new hub there. I did do this brake video along with a couple of other repairs. If you like to see the other steps involved in replacing that hub, then just check out our other videos. You go on nicely. I would just take a lug nut. Just sort of somewhat hold on there while I put the brakes together. This is the bracket that the caliper bolt too is on and has a stainless steel slide here. This one will take a wire brush to clean those off real good.
Now, we have two lug bolts, 13/16", just put the bracket on like that. Just a reminder, the bracket goes on the disc side and the bolts go in. I'm going to tighten these bolts a little bit. Made my tool crunch and tighten it to 110 pounds. Now, I'm just going to wipe rotors down, just a little bit of Mineral Spirits here, just to make sure there's nothing on, Mineral Spirits brake cleaner even gasoline as long as it cleans off grease and then evaporate quickly. Okay, my new pads from 1AAuto, exactly the same as the old pads. On here, I assemble around within a minute. It's pretty to put to these on, but what I found was that the brake disc was wobbling around and preventing me so I put another bolt on it and just another, that's all set.
For the next step, you may want to loosen your brake fluid cap a little. When we pried out the caliper, we attempted to reset the pistons. You see the pistons are still slipping out. What we can do is just take an old tab and then a large C-clamp. Then you have the C-clamp to reset pistons, as I tighten the C-clamp, the pistons go further in. Caliper back on just to make sure that these are sliding nice and free. Got to push them all the way that way, and then put this back on. You put the top up in first and then the bottom. You'll now start your 13 millimeter bolts and we'll put these in. Then torque comes to 25 pounds.
Then we'll fast forward through the preliminary tightening of those bolts. I'll fast forward it a little bit here. Remove those two lug nuts that I used to hold the rotor in place, then put the wheel back up on. Hand-thread the lug nuts and then I just tighten them up preliminary with the air wrench. Then, as you lower the vehicle on the ground and then tighten the lug nuts, 120 pounds and you want to create a star pattern as you're torqueing them.
Last very important step, make sure you reset your disk brakes by pumping them and then before you road test, you stop from 5 and 10 miles an hour just to make sure your vehicle just stop before you enter the roadway.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844, 3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brake pads and rotors on this 2004 Dodge Ram 1500. This is a full-drive. This procedure is generally the same for most of this generation truck. Tools you'll need are 7/8, actually, or a 22 millimeter, pretty much the same size, 13/16", 13 millimeter sockets, ratchet. You'll probably want a breaker bar or a pipe to get some leverage on your ratchet handle. A sledge hammer if your rotors are rusted like they were on our vehicle, a large screwdriver or a small pry bar, wire brush, large C-clamp and we also use some penetrating oil.
First, you want to remove your wheel. If you're just using hand tools, start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first and then raise it, secure it with jack stand then remove the wheel. I've got air tools and I use them. Either the 7/8" or 22 millimeter, both will work. Okay, and we'll fast forward here as I remove the lug nuts, the cap and the wheel. Now, with the wheel off, you can check the condition of your brakes or your rotors. Use the back of your finger. Just run them up and if you're feeling hard ridges, or this actually has some pretty deep bruise here so I'm actually going to replace these rotors. Then you can check the condition of your pads. As you can see, my pads are actually in pretty good shape. The pad is right there and I will only turn the rotor. On the rotor, you can see turning for pads right next to it. There are some pretty good bites in the pad but I don't like the look of these rotors so I'm going to replace the rotors and pads.
What you want to do, take a large pry bar or large screw driver or a small pry bar like this. You're going to pry out on the caliper. It pushes the pistons. These are pistons right here. By prying out those pistons, get pushed back into the caliper. You remove the caliper; you're going to want to remove two 13 millimeter bolts, one here and then one up here. Pretty easy and it's loosen up, supposed to be too tight but it will come up with a small ratchet and then socket or wrench. The caliper comes off, take that, just left it up here for now. Now, your brake pads, it will just come right out. You'll need your pry bar and I got it right out. Now, you can see that rotor is still blocked by this bracket. To get the bracket off, it's two bolts, one here, one here. What I'm finding the best is a 13/16", 21 millimeters looks like is a little too big. It's kind of odd that they go back and forth between standard and metric.
When these bolts are done, you'll either want a breaker bar like this or you could just have a ratchet and a piece of pipe, put it under your ratchet or your breaker bar, give yourself an extra leverage and loosen up the bolts. Just be careful when you do this, you'd pull nicely so it doesn't jerk. I mean, you're putting not much torque on it. You don't want to pull off the bolt. After showing you how to do the leverage, I just cheat and use the impact wrench anyways. I'm going to spray the rotor with tons of penetrate. Hopefully, it's getting there. On your vehicle, you maybe want to do this, just sit it overnight and come back on the back side of the rotor and the hub. Pull out the big gun.
You probably noticed the shiny, new hub there. I did do this brake video along with a couple of other repairs. If you like to see the other steps involved in replacing that hub, then just check out our other videos. You go on nicely. I would just take a lug nut. Just sort of somewhat hold on there while I put the brakes together. This is the bracket that the caliper bolt too is on and has a stainless steel slide here. This one will take a wire brush to clean those off real good.
Now, we have two lug bolts, 13/16", just put the bracket on like that. Just a reminder, the bracket goes on the disc side and the bolts go in. I'm going to tighten these bolts a little bit. Made my tool crunch and tighten it to 110 pounds. Now, I'm just going to wipe rotors down, just a little bit of Mineral Spirits here, just to make sure there's nothing on, Mineral Spirits brake cleaner even gasoline as long as it cleans off grease and then evaporate quickly. Okay, my new pads from 1AAuto, exactly the same as the old pads. On here, I assemble around within a minute. It's pretty to put to these on, but what I found was that the brake disc was wobbling around and preventing me so I put another bolt on it and just another, that's all set.
For the next step, you may want to loosen your brake fluid cap a little. When we pried out the caliper, we attempted to reset the pistons. You see the pistons are still slipping out. What we can do is just take an old tab and then a large C-clamp. Then you have the C-clamp to reset pistons, as I tighten the C-clamp, the pistons go further in. Caliper back on just to make sure that these are sliding nice and free. Got to push them all the way that way, and then put this back on. You put the top up in first and then the bottom. You'll now start your 13 millimeter bolts and we'll put these in. Then torque comes to 25 pounds.
Then we'll fast forward through the preliminary tightening of those bolts. I'll fast forward it a little bit here. Remove those two lug nuts that I used to hold the rotor in place, then put the wheel back up on. Hand-thread the lug nuts and then I just tighten them up preliminary with the air wrench. Then, as you lower the vehicle on the ground and then tighten the lug nuts, 120 pounds and you want to create a star pattern as you're torqueing them.
Last very important step, make sure you reset your disk brakes by pumping them and then before you road test, you stop from 5 and 10 miles an hour just to make sure your vehicle just stop before you enter the roadway.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844, 3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do the front brakes on this Dodge Ram. This one's a 2008, but the procedure’s pretty much the same for 2006 to 2008.
You'll need new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, a tire iron or a breaker bar with a socket to get your tire off. 13 to 22 millimeters sockets with a ratchet, a small pry bar or a flatblade screw driver, bungee cord or cable – I'll show you how to use those – a hammer, wire brush, large pliers, brake grease, torque wrench and jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel lose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket’s on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with a jack and jack stands. This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off road tire and twenty inch wheel, is going to be real heavy. We're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the caliper slide bolts from the back of the caliper. Using a small pry bar or a large flat blade screw driver, remove the caliper from the pads, hang it from the control arm with a small bungee cord, a zip-tie or a mechanics wire.
To remove the brake pads from the carrier, you may find it helpful to use a screw driver to help pry them out. Using the 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the caliper carrier bolts from the spindle. Remove the caliper carrier from the spindle. Remove the rotor from the spindle, often these are rusted on. Where this is not going to be reused we could hit the rotor, but in case you're reusing your rotor, be sure to hit this portion. Don't hit the lugs or the machined surface.
You can see our old rotor off the truck is all pitted and corroded, it's not going to brake well. It's going to make a lot of grinding noises. Our pads however, really aren't that bad, they look fairly recent, but you can see that they've been chewed up a bit by all this pitting and corrosion on the old rotors. You can see this new kit from 1A Auto is the exact same as the parts we pulled off of the truck. It's going to go right on just like your original equipment, direct fit. If your brake pads are worn out, or your rotors are damaged or warped, this new kit from 1A Auto is going to fix you up right.
Using a heavy wire brush remove as much of the rust scaling from the hub and the studs as you can. Using a large pair of water pump style pliers, compress the calipers, one piston at a time. Be sure to go slow so you don't damage any seals or force any excess brake fluid out of the master cylinder. Also going too fast can cause the other piston to come out. Once you've bottomed it out, move onto the top piston. Like I said, sometimes the other piston will come out as you're compressing the other. If you go slow, you may have to go back and forth a few times to make sure that both pistons are fully bottomed out in the caliper.
Apply brake grease to the contact points on the hub, to prevent our rotor from seizing like the old one did. You don't need too much, just a nice thin coat to make it easier for us to take it off next time. Reinstall the rotor onto the hub and, to keep the rotor upright while we install our caliper and pads and make it a little easier to put them on, I'm going to use an axle nut, if you have one around or you can use something else to space it. Sometimes a roll of electrical tape will work, anything that fits over the stud and inside the lug nut, so you don't have to thread the lug nut on all the way to keep the rotor upright.
Using a small wire brush remove the rust scaling from the slides on the brake caliper carrier. Just want to ensure that our brake pads and hardware move freely without binding or making any noise. Now we'll check our caliper slides, if there's any rust or corrosion on them you'll have to replace them, if it's too far gone, or you can clean the grease off, bring them down with a wire brush. Ours look good, so we're just going to remove them and grease all the moving surfaces on our caliper carrier. Reinstall the caliper bracket under your spindle, start the two 21 millimeter bolts. Torque the caliper bracket bolts to a hundred and thirty foot-pounds.
Install your new brake pad into the caliper bracket. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the backing shim of the pad where the caliper will contact it. Remove the bungee cord from your caliper. Be sure that you don't twist the brake line, and reinstall it onto the carrier. You may have to push in on the slides a little to make it line up. Reinstall your thirteen millimeter bolts into the caliper slides. Torque the caliper pin bolts to twenty-four foot-pounds.
Remove your lug nut and the spacer holding your rotor on if you used one. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts by hand, tighten the lugs as far as you can, remember to bring the wheel down evenly and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to a hundred and thirty-five foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do the front brakes on this Dodge Ram. This one's a 2008, but the procedure’s pretty much the same for 2006 to 2008.
You'll need new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, a tire iron or a breaker bar with a socket to get your tire off. 13 to 22 millimeters sockets with a ratchet, a small pry bar or a flatblade screw driver, bungee cord or cable – I'll show you how to use those – a hammer, wire brush, large pliers, brake grease, torque wrench and jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel lose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket’s on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with a jack and jack stands. This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off road tire and twenty inch wheel, is going to be real heavy. We're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the caliper slide bolts from the back of the caliper. Using a small pry bar or a large flat blade screw driver, remove the caliper from the pads, hang it from the control arm with a small bungee cord, a zip-tie or a mechanics wire.
To remove the brake pads from the carrier, you may find it helpful to use a screw driver to help pry them out. Using the 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the caliper carrier bolts from the spindle. Remove the caliper carrier from the spindle. Remove the rotor from the spindle, often these are rusted on. Where this is not going to be reused we could hit the rotor, but in case you're reusing your rotor, be sure to hit this portion. Don't hit the lugs or the machined surface.
You can see our old rotor off the truck is all pitted and corroded, it's not going to brake well. It's going to make a lot of grinding noises. Our pads however, really aren't that bad, they look fairly recent, but you can see that they've been chewed up a bit by all this pitting and corrosion on the old rotors. You can see this new kit from 1A Auto is the exact same as the parts we pulled off of the truck. It's going to go right on just like your original equipment, direct fit. If your brake pads are worn out, or your rotors are damaged or warped, this new kit from 1A Auto is going to fix you up right.
Using a heavy wire brush remove as much of the rust scaling from the hub and the studs as you can. Using a large pair of water pump style pliers, compress the calipers, one piston at a time. Be sure to go slow so you don't damage any seals or force any excess brake fluid out of the master cylinder. Also going too fast can cause the other piston to come out. Once you've bottomed it out, move onto the top piston. Like I said, sometimes the other piston will come out as you're compressing the other. If you go slow, you may have to go back and forth a few times to make sure that both pistons are fully bottomed out in the caliper.
Apply brake grease to the contact points on the hub, to prevent our rotor from seizing like the old one did. You don't need too much, just a nice thin coat to make it easier for us to take it off next time. Reinstall the rotor onto the hub and, to keep the rotor upright while we install our caliper and pads and make it a little easier to put them on, I'm going to use an axle nut, if you have one around or you can use something else to space it. Sometimes a roll of electrical tape will work, anything that fits over the stud and inside the lug nut, so you don't have to thread the lug nut on all the way to keep the rotor upright.
Using a small wire brush remove the rust scaling from the slides on the brake caliper carrier. Just want to ensure that our brake pads and hardware move freely without binding or making any noise. Now we'll check our caliper slides, if there's any rust or corrosion on them you'll have to replace them, if it's too far gone, or you can clean the grease off, bring them down with a wire brush. Ours look good, so we're just going to remove them and grease all the moving surfaces on our caliper carrier. Reinstall the caliper bracket under your spindle, start the two 21 millimeter bolts. Torque the caliper bracket bolts to a hundred and thirty foot-pounds.
Install your new brake pad into the caliper bracket. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the backing shim of the pad where the caliper will contact it. Remove the bungee cord from your caliper. Be sure that you don't twist the brake line, and reinstall it onto the carrier. You may have to push in on the slides a little to make it line up. Reinstall your thirteen millimeter bolts into the caliper slides. Torque the caliper pin bolts to twenty-four foot-pounds.
Remove your lug nut and the spacer holding your rotor on if you used one. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts by hand, tighten the lugs as far as you can, remember to bring the wheel down evenly and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to a hundred and thirty-five foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
BKA11062
