2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck Regular Cab Rear Wheel Drive Front & Rear 6 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ SBA30357

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear shock absorbers in a 2008 Dodge Ram pickup. This is for non-mega cab trucks. The items you're going to need for this repair include a pair of rear shocks from 1AAuto.com, we do recommend you do these the same way we do the struts or any other suspension component, replacing in pairs, and you'll need a 21mm and a 22mm deep socket, some extensions, a ratchet, a breaker bar, a 21mm wrench, and a torque wrench. You're also going to want a jack and a set of jack stands.

With the vehicle on the ground, using a 22mm socket and breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with the jack and jack stands. This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off-road tire and 20 inch wheel, it's going to be real heavy, so we're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.

Remove the bottom bolt for the rear shock using a 21mm wrench, a 21mm socket, and breaker bar. After you break the nut loose, you can switch to a ratchet. Remove the bottom bolt. Sometimes if they get really stuck on there, you can rotate the ratchet up and just hold it against the bottom of the axle so you don't have to strain your other hand to hold the bolt steady. Remove the nut and push the bolt through.

Use your 21mm wrench to hold the nut on the back side of the upper shock bolt. Using a 21mm socket and extension and a breaker bar, we're going to brace the wrench against the bottom of the bed there. After we've broken the bolt loose, we'll switch over to a ratchet to get it out faster. Remove the nut on the back first, support the shock, remove the upper bolt, and remove the shock from the vehicle.

Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle. This is an aftermarket replacement, this is not the OEM part that we took out. Here we have our new part from 1AAuto.com. These come shipped with this little band on them to keep them compressed, which makes them smaller and easier to package. All you have to do is push down, remove that, what you'll see is exactly the same as our old part.

Reinstall the top of the shock into the upper mount. Send your bolt through, and start the nut on the back. Before tightening, we'll also line up our lower shock mount, setting that bolt as well. It may help if you spin it a little with a ratchet to help center everything up nicely. Be sure that it's not fighting, or that means that it could be bound up against a thread and strip out your bolt. Start that nut as well. Support the nut on the back of your upper shock with a 21mm wrench. Use that socket ratchet and extension to tighten up the bolt.

If you've rested the wrench against the frame to support it while you tighten up with the socket and ratchet, you want to lift that up and hold it now so it doesn't get locked against there, and torque to 100 foot-pounds. Tighten up the bottom bolt with the same socket, ratchet, and wrench. Torque to 100 foot-pounds.

Start your lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lugs as far as you can. Remember to bring the wheel down evenly and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video we're going to show you how to replace the sway bar end links on this 2008 Dodge Ram. Typically, you want to replace them in pairs. These are the tools that you're going to need: rust penetrant, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, locking pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands

Raise and support your vehicle. You can do it with jack stands, but in this case we have a lift so we're going to use the lift. In the front end of the truck you can see that your sway bar end link is right here. We're going to start by shooting the threads with some rust penetrant so that it makes our whole job a whole lot easier.

To remove the sway bar end link, you're actually going to have to rotate the sway bar up. To do that, you have to disconnect the opposite side sway bar end link. If you're going to just be replacing one of the sway bar end links, then you just need to disconnect the bottom of the other side, but if you're going to be replacing both like us, and we recommend replacing both at the same time, you're going to want to lubricate the top and the bottom with the penetrating oil.

You'll see that the sway bar end link has a 15mm hex on the bottom side of it so that you can hold it with a wrench. Then on the top you're going to need a 17mm deep socket and ratchet. The bottom end of the sway bar end link has an 18mm spot for a wrench on it. You can wedge it in between the wheel. The bottom side is an 18mm 6-point. Now you can take the nut right off the bottom. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, but if you're just doing one, you need to disconnect the opposite side, the bottom of it. The 18mm wrench that we were hoping to use didn't fit in this scenario, so we went right to the locking pliers.

With an 18mm socket on the bottom, you should be able to loosen it right up. Then you can pop the nut right off the bottom. Now we need to raise up the sway bar so that we can pull the sway bar end links out. Unfortunately, we just put brand new bushings in here, so the sway bar is really tight, and it's tough to push up. We're going to start by loosening up the sway bar bushing brackets. You don't have to take all the bolts out. We just need to loosen them up so that the sway bar will move a little freer.

Now we're going to push the sway bar up on this side so that we can come over here and remove the sway bar end link from the sway bar. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, so the next thing that we do is rotate the sway bar like this. You haven't easier access to this upper nut on the sway bar end link. You can put a 15mm here, 17mm socket on the top, and loosen it up.

This right here is a 1ASSL00405. This is also an aftermarket piece; it's actually been replaced before on the truck. You can see that they're obviously very similar. Ours has the new bushings and washers, and nuts, along with the grease fitting included. The only difference between these two that I can come up with is these points right here, where you put the wrench on to remove them. It's just 18mm versus 19mm. It's going to fit just like the original one does and hopefully solve your problem.

Get your 1A Auto sway bar end link, and take the nut and the washer and the rubber bumper off the top, leaving one rubber bumper and the washer on there. Slide it through your sway bar. Then put the nut on, but leave it really use so that we can actually slide it down into the control arm later. We're going to repeat this step on the opposite side. We're now going to spin the sway bar up, and set the sway bar end links down through the control arms. Then we'll loosely install the nuts on the bottom of the sway bar end links.

We're going to start by tightening up the top of the sway bar end link with a 15mm wrench right in here and a 16mm socket and ratchet on the top. Just snug it up. Then we'll move to the bottom. We'll take a 19mm wrench, slide it right over here, and an 18mm socket and ratchet for the bottom. Once it's tight, you'll want to repeat these steps on the opposite side.

Next, we're going to tighten up all of the sway bar bushings bolts that we had loosened earlier in the job. These we should set to 45 foot-pounds. With the sway bar bushings torqued and the sway bar end links replaced, now you can lower the truck back down to the ground and you'll be all set for the road ahead.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.